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Spider mites AKA The Borg

mr.brunch

Well-known member
Veteran
Evil bastard mites.
bug clear ultra for fruit and veg seems to work and is a systemic so should continue working for a week or two- I usually give a spray in veg, then another a week later just before flip.
plus a good bleaching of the tent and surrounding areas between grows... I’ll often spray bleach and a different cleaning product (**produces dangerous gases ***) into the empty tent and leave it for a couple of hours to gas any life form to death, then run the fans for a while to clear the air before cleaning it out.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
After a little research

Imidacloprid is specific for insect nervous tissue and doesn’t affect mites or mammals in the same manner.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Factors Affecting the Selectivity of Treatment Materials for Citrus Pest Management

Treatment Material -----------------Pets targeted -------------------Resistance against pest-------Natural Enemies ---Natural Enemies affected --resistance
Treatment Material
abamectin (Agri-Mek, etc.)intermediate (citrus thrips,
mites, leafminers)
intermediatepredatory mites & thripsintermediateno
abamectin (Clinch Ant Bait)narrow (fire ants)intermediateother antsintermediateno
acequinocyl (Kanemite)narrow (mites)intermediatepredatory mitesintermediateno
acetamiprid (Assail)broad (many insects)intermediatemost natural enemiesintermediateno
afidopyropen (Sefina Inscalis)narrow (aphids, psyllids)intermediateparasitic waspsshortno
Aphytis melinusnarrow (armored scales)long, unless broad-spectrum pesticide usednonenoneno
azadirachtin (Neemix)narrow (whiteflies, aphids, leafminers, caterpillars)shortfewshortno
Bacillus thuringiensisnarrow (caterpillars)shortnonenoneno
beta-cyfluthrin (Baythroid)broad (many insects)intermediatemost natural enemieslow rates-intermediate
high rates-long
resistance in some San Joaquin Valley citrus thrips populations
bifenazate (Acramite)narrow (mites)intermediatepredatory mitesintermediateno
bifenthrin, trunk spray (Brigade)broad (insects and mites)longunknown (likely few)unknownno
buprofezin (Centaur WDG)narrow (scales, whiteflies)intermediatepredatory beetlesintermediateno
carbaryl, baitnarrow (earwigs, grasshoppers, cutworms)intermediatenonenoneno
carbaryl (Sevin XLR Plus)broad (many insects)longmost natural enemieslongaggravates mites; resistance in some armored scale populations; resistance in some Euseius tularensis populations
chlorantraniliprole (Altacor)narrow (psyllids, caterpillars)intermediateparasitic waspsintermediateno
chlorpyrifos (Lorsban 15G)broad (many insects)lintermediatemost natural enemiesintermediatenone for target pests
Chromobacterium subterfugae (Grandevo)narrow (Asian citrus psyllid)shortfewshortno
copper bandsnarrow (brown garden snail only)longnonenoneno
copper sulfatenarrow (snails)long, unless washed offfew, if anynone to shortno
cryolite (Prokil Cryolite)intermediate (foliage feeders such as worms, katydids, and Fuller rose beetle)long, unless washed off by rainfew, if anynone to shortno
Cryptolaemus montrouzierinarrow (mealybugs)intermediate, does not survive winters wellnonenoneno
cyflumetofen (Nealta)narrow (mites)intermediatepredatory mitesshortno
cyfluthrin (Tombstone)broad (many insects and mites)intermediatemostlongresistance in some San Joaquin Valley citrus thrips populations
cyantraniliprole, foliar (Exirel)narrow (aphids, leafminer, psyllids, sharpshooters, thrips)intermediatenonenoneno
cyantraniliprole, systemic (Verimark)narrow (citrus leafminer, Asian citrus psyllid, aphids)intermediatenonenoneno
cyantraniliprole/abamectin (Minecto Pro)intermediate (Asian citrus psyllids, bud mite, broad mite, citrus thrips, cotton aphid, twospotted spider mite, citrus leafminer and rust mite)intermediatepredatory mites and thripsintermediateno
diflubenzuron (Micromite)intermediate (katydids, peelminer, leafminer, grasshoppers)intermediatepredatory beetlesintermediateno
dimethoate (Dimethoate)broad (many insects)intermediatemost natural enemiesintermediateresistance in some citrus thrips populations
fenbutatin oxide (Vendex)narrow (mites)shortpredatory mitesshortno
fenpropathrin (Danitol)broad (many insects and mites)intermediatemost natural enemieslongresistance in some San Joaquin Valley citrus thrips populations
fenpyroximate (Fujimite)narrow (mites)intermediatepredatory mitesintermediateno
flonicamid (Beleaf)narrow (aphids, psyllids)shortpredatory thripsshortno
flupyradifurone (Sivanto)narrow (soft scales, aphids, Asian citrus psyllid, sharpshooters)shortparasitic waspsshortno
formetanate hydrochloride (Carzol)broad (many insects)intermediatemost natural enemieslong, unless washed offresistance in some citrus thrips populations
hexythiazox (Onager)narrow (mites)intermediatepredatory mitesshort to intermediateno
hydrated limenarrow (leafhoppers)longinterferes with searching ability of many natural enemieslongno
imidacloprid, foliar
(Admire Pro)
narrow (citricola scale, aphids, Asian citrus psyllid, glassy-winged sharpshooters, whiteflies)intermediatemost natural enemiesintermediateresistance in some glassy-winged sharpshooter populations
imidacloprid, systemic (Admire Pro and generics)narrow (aphids, glassy-winged sharpshooters, Asian citrus psyllid, citrus leafminer, weevils, whiteflies)longpredatory beetles and parasitesintermediateresistance in some glassy-winged sharpshooter populations
imidacloprid/beta-cyfluthrin (Leverage)broad (many insects)intermediatemost natural enemieslongresistance to the beta-cyfluthrin in some citrus thrips populations
iron phosphate (Sluggo)narrow (snails)shortbeneficial snailsshortno
malathionbroad (many insects)intermediatemost natural enemiesintermediateno
metaflumizone (Altrevin)narrow (ants)intermediateother antsintermediateno
metaldehyde (Deadline)narrow (snails)shortbeneficial snailsshortno
Metaphycus helvolusnarrow (soft scales)long, unless broad-spectrum pesticides usednonenoneno
methomyl (Lannate)broad (many insects)shortmost natural enemiesintermediateno
methoxyfenozide (Intrepid)narrow (caterpillars)intermediatefewshortno
micronized sulfurbroad (mites, citrus thrips)intermediatemost natural enemiesintermediateno
naled (Dibrom)broad (many insects)shortmost natural enemiesintermediateno
neem oil (Trilogy)broad (softbodied insects)shortfewshortno
oil (dilute application)broad (unprotected stages of insects and mites)shortmost natural enemiesshortno
oil (low-volume)narrow (citrus red mite)shortpredatory mitesshortno
phosmet (Imidan)broad (many insects, mites)intermediatemost natural enemiesshortno
pyrethrin (PyGanic)broad (insects)shortmostshortno
pyrethrins/piperonyl butoxide (Pyrenone Crop Spray, etc.)broad (many insects)shortmost natural enemiesshortno
pyridaben (Nexter)narrow (mites)intermediatepredatory mitesintermediateno, but stimulates citrus thrips
pyriproxyfen (Esteem)narrow (armored scale insects)longpredatory beetleslongno
pyriproxyfen, bait (Esteem Ant Bait)narrow (fire ants)intermediatenonenoneno
rosemary oil/peppermint oil (Ecotrol)broad (unprotected stages of insects and mites)shortmostshortno
Rumina decollatanarrow (brown garden snail)long, unless snail bait usednonenoneno
sabadilla (Veratran-D)narrow (citrus thrips)shortpredatory thripsshortno
smethoprene (Tango)narrow (sugar-feeding ants)as long as the bait station is fillednonenoneno
spinetoram (Delegate)narrow (thrips, katydids)intermediatepredatory thripsintermediateresistance in some citrus thrips populations
spinosad (Success, Entrust)narrow (thrips, orangeworms, katydids)intermediatepredatory thripsintermediateresistance in some citrus thrips populations
spirodiclofen (Envidor)narrow (mites)intermediatepredatory mitesintermediateno
spirotetramat (Movento)broad (mites, thrips, leafminer, aphids, armored scales)longpredatory mitesshortno
sodium ferric edta (Ferroxx)narrow (snails)shortpredatory snailsshortno
sticky materialsnarrow (trunk climbers)longfew, if anylongno
thiamethoxam, foliar (Actara)broad (many insects)longmostlongno
thiamethoxam, systemic (Platinum)narrow (sucking insects)longpredatory beetles and parasitic waspsintermediateno
thiamethoxam/abamectin (Agri-flex)broad (many insects)longmostlongno
thiamethoxam/chlorantraniliprole (Voliam flexi)broad (many insects)longmostlongno
vedalia beetlenarrow (cottony cushion scale)longnonenoneno
wettable sulfurnarrow (mites and citrus thrips)intermediatemost natural enemiesintermediateno
zeta-cypermethrinbroad (many insects and mites)intermediatemost natural enemiesintermediateno
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
With nothing to loose I tripled the dosage of the 7.9% Bifenthrin.. I dipped every clone for 30 seconds . I then did a complete soil drench with the same mixture. I will dip them again, if they survive, a second time in 4-5 days.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
flylow
Thanks for the link. I really lean more to a natural way of controlling things. I need to do more research.

Any reason nematodes is the predator you picked vs the other choices?
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Evil bastard mites.
bug clear ultra for fruit and veg seems to work and is a systemic so should continue working for a week or two- I usually give a spray in veg, then another a week later just before flip.
plus a good bleaching of the tent and surrounding areas between grows... I’ll often spray bleach and a different cleaning product (**produces dangerous gases ***) into the empty tent and leave it for a couple of hours to gas any life form to death, then run the fans for a while to clear the air before cleaning it out.

Thanks Mr Brunch.

I will look up bug clear ultra. I am at my wits end but thats a short road anyways.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Mr. Hamstring, I asked Chris at Redbud Soil to have me supplied in advance in case I got bugs. Nematodes were one weapon, and a bottle of"PureCrop1" was the other. The nematodes for the soil came in granules which I sprinkled on the top of the soil. I had sprouts in my 2nd run (see diary) that were being killed by little red mites. The nematodes seem to have slowed them down.

The IPM stuff showed up and I had no idea what they were or what to do. They sat in the fridge a few weeks, but still seemed to work. I have a sprayer now that is just for the PureCrop1 leaf spray.

Just in case, I want to add some nematodes to the soil I have waiting for the 2nd run, so I ordered some nematodes from that supplier I linked, and they showed up today (2 different kinds):

Click image for larger version  Name:	DSC00330.JPG Views:	0 Size:	85.1 KB ID:	17816442

Check this out:

https://www.arbico-organics.com/cate...bis-crop-guide
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
All Miticides Are Not Created Equal

September 15, 2004When it comes to selecting a miticide to control spider mites or �mites� in landscapes and nurseries, there is sometimes confusion that all miticides are similar in terms of their use and the range of mites that they control. However, miticides are not all created equal because they may vary in where they can be used and the target mites on the label. Following are detailed descriptions of five miticides that are generally recommended for controlling mites both indoors and/or outdoors. This is the conclusion of a two-part article, with the first part published in issue no. 15 of this newsletter (August 18, 2004).
Avid, which contains abamectin as the active ingredient, is an effective insecticide/miticide for many different mite species and is typically recommended for control of mites both indoors and outdoors. The active ingredient, which occurs naturally, is derived from the soil microorganism, Streptomyces avermitilis. Avid is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, European red mite, carmine spider mite, Southern red mite, spruce spider mite, cyclamen mite, broad mite, and rust and bud mite. The product can be used to control mites in greenhouses, shadehouses, on field-grown ornamentals, Christmas tree plantations, and woody ornamentals. Avid is a contact and translaminar miticide. Translaminar is a term that refers to insecticides/miticides that penetrate the leaf tissue and form a reservoir of active ingredient within the leaf. Avid generally provides up to 28 days of residual activity. The label rate for all mite species is 4 fl oz per 100 gal. Avid is active on the mobile life stages of mites, with no activity on eggs. Although the insecticide/miticide is slow acting, treated mites are immobilized after exposure.
Floramite, which contains the active ingredient bifenazate is labeled for control of a wide range of mites, including twospotted spider mite, Pacific mite, strawberry mite, European red mite, citrus red mite, clover mite, southern red mite, spruce spider mite, and bamboo spider mite. It is not active on rust, broad, or flat mite. Floramite is labeled for use in greenhouses, shadehouses, nurseries, Christmas tree plantations, landscapes, and interiorscapes. This is a contact miticide, so thorough coverage of all plant parts is essential. This miticide is active on all mite life stages, including eggs. Floramite is fast acting and provides up to 28 days of residual activity. The label rate is 4 to 8 fl oz per 100 gal.
TetraSan contains the active ingredient etoxazole and is actually a growth regulator for mites, inhibiting the molting process. TetraSan is labeled for control of the following mites: twospotted spider mite, citrus red mite, European red mite, lewis spider mite, Pacific spider mite, Southern red mite, and spruce spider mite. TetraSan can be used to control mites in greenhouses, lathhouses, shadehouses, and interiorscapes and on outdoor ornamentals. Similar to abamectin (Avid) (described previously), TetraSan is a contact and translaminar miticide providing up to 28 days of residual activity from a single application. The label rate for controlling mites is 8 to 16 oz per 100 gal. The product is active on the egg, larvae, and nymphal stages. It has minimal effect on adult mites. However, adult female mites that are treated do not produce viable eggs.
Pylon is a miticide that is can be used only in greenhouses. It contains the active ingredient chlorfenapyr. Pylon is labeled for control of various mites, including twospotted spider mite, broad mite, cyclamen mite, citrus bud mite, and rust mite. Pylon is a contact and translaminar miticide. In addition, it works as a stomach poison when ingested. Pylon is only active on the mobile life stages, including larvae, nymphs, and adults. It has no activity on mite eggs. The product can provide up to 28 days of residual activity. The label rate is 2.6 to 5.2 fl oz per 100 gal.
Vendex is one of the older miticides and contains the active ingredient fenbutatin-oxide. The miticide is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, clover mite, Southern red mite, and spruce spider mite. Vendex can be used in greenhouses, on outdoor ornamentals, and on established landscape ornamentals and nurseries. This is a contact miticide, so it is important to thoroughly spray all plant parts during application. Vendex is slower acting than most miticides, taking 7 to 10 days to eventually kill mites. However, it provides long-lasting control--about 30 days of residual activity. The label rate is 8 to 16 oz per 100 gal. Vendex is a warm-weather miticide providing better control when the ambient air temperature is above 70 degrees F. This product is a restricted-use pesticide.
For more information on the products mentioned, be sure to consult the label or the manufacturer.

Author:Raymond A. Cloyd
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Avid? Really?

Southern Red Mite? Hmmmm, Maybe what I had. May be in my soil tub down in the shed.

iu
 

chilliwilli

Waterboy
Veteran
Sorry to hear.
i think switching the active ingredient is essential with mite problems that come back. After the first dip change to different stuff for the 2. and never the same 2 in a row. Some kill everything but u might miss one or 2 or they survive the attack, some work only on growing mites and didn't harm the eggs.

Can u get the described miticides? I have not tried them on my own but get some avid, floramite and tetrasan and use them alternating because the 3 act different. So every third day a different product.

On page 55 sshz mentioned 3 products used by a big grower. Try them as they work proven. On the same page crocked8 mentioned some foggers that work. I think the advantage of them is that they will cover everything and crawl in every corner so its more likely to catch 100% of the fuckers.

In addition get some chrysoperla and neoseiulus californicus as predator. The californicus need min 60% rh to work good. The chrysoperla only need min 15°c to work

They came back several times so now its war. I wouldn't worry to much about killing/harming clones because u have to kill them anyway when u can't get rid of the mites.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
chilliwilli

Hey man thanks and thats just what I came back for was go through this thread. I will tell you after dipping and doing a soil drench with tripled the dosage of the 7.9% Bifenthrin I decided to take a look again today. I picked/pinched off any leaf that had the curling tip. I' say it was 10 leaves ( On just one strain) and sure enough there was a live mite. There would be no way to do this type of analysis with out the USB scope.

It becomes a financial analysis at some point. Avid is $100 and I can probably get my Cocoa OG clone for cheaper than that. Just want to make sure I document my thoughts for some other poor sap who gets mites.

Step one buy a USB scope($40.00). Anyone that tells you that you can call your plant mite free without a scope is misleading you.

I plan to stay on the path of trying to rid my current clones of the mites for a little while longer. This is a learning curve and pain is one of the quickest ways to learn. The "hot stove" methodology. There has to be a point where the cost and time of trying to rid them is not worth the money and effort of just getting a new clone. Some of them are not replaceable and that really sucks.

Back to work headed to pg 55-- I will try and keep this thread moving forward with my efforts.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Actually, Avid and Maverick are quite similar. BUT, Avid has a residual effect up to 28 days which can be helpful in fighting off the critters. Both though, are not supposed to be used on marijuana plants.

First off not busting anyones nuts just adding to the conversation which I totally respect and appreciate the advice.

Maveriks active ingredient and Fluvalinate which is a synthetic pyrethroid chemical compound . So it would be the same as what i am currently using which is Bifenthrin which is an insecticide in the pyrethroid family.

Avid contains abamectin as its active ingredient and is in the glycoside class of chemistry listed in the MOA Group 6. If you goggle abamectin you can purchase it around 30% cheaper than Avid.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Hot Shots are carcinogenic.......anyone that recommends them doesn't care about their health. A master grower in Denver, CO who operates many of the largest grows in the state recommends rotating these 3 products for mites, spraying and drenching:

1. Pyganic
2. Botaniguard Max
3. Venerate

1. Pyganic-active ingredient is pyrethroid




2. Botaniguard-- Max-BotaniGard MAXX is a unique combination product containing natural Pyrethrins and Beauveria bassiana . Beauveria bassiana strain GHA is a fungus that is used as a pesticide for controlling many kinds of insects.



To a laymen Venerate sounds all lot like diatomaceous earth.
3. Venerate---Venerate is an advanced bio-insecticide that features multiple modes of action and is effective against a wide variety of pests while being easy on beneficials. Venerate controls or suppresses many foliar feeding pests including caterpillars and foliage feeding coleopteran and is effective against many soft-bodied insects such as, aphids, whiteflies and plant sucking mites. Venerate combats insect targets by enzymatic degradation of exoskeletal structures and interference with the molting process leading to mortality through contact and/or ingestion. Venerate’s unique modes of action complement and improve integrated pest management and insect resistance management programs.

Active Ingredient:

Heat-killed Burkholderia spp. strain A396 cells and spent fermentation media*.... 94.46%
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
This is just purely false. Firstly, many products effectively kill spidermites. And second, if someone had an infestation, cleaned and vacuumed the room and just got new clones, they likely will see the same problem right away again due to the size and resilience of them. I cannot believe the suggestions on here. Hot shot strips? Nothing kills them? Jesus Christ.

If you really want them GONE, there are three foggers that will handle it. Lights off, oscillating fans on, no exhaust or scrubbers running. Let each one run in the room a minimum of 6-8 hours before exhausting. First, bethoveen, wait three days, pylon, wait three days, pyrethrum. I emptied my room and ran those and havent seen a spider mite in 3 years. Not one. The labels say they are safe up until harvest but thats up to ones own morals. I just took all my shit down other than veg and ran the bombs before refilling. Clean and clear since. If you really want to be certain run the foggers between runs as well. You should never see them again. Anyone suggesting contact sprays may see a product working and killing them but to effectively and fully eradicate them you need to get every surface of everything. Spraying even with an atomizer wont cut it. At least not in my experience. Everyones room is different and every climate has an impact but I’ve never seen the three bombs not work.

beethoven active ingredient ----Etoxazole is a narrow spectrum systemic acaricide used to combat spider mites. It targets a variety of mites in the egg, larvae and nymph stages however not the adult stage.

Pylon active ingredient---- Chlorfenapyr is a pesticide, and specifically a pro-insecticide (meaning it is metabolized into an active insecticide after entering the host), derived from a class of microbially produced compounds known as halogenated pyrroles.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
I have to get my brain dead ass off this PC but I totally agree a single mitiside will not work. In fact I proved it because I just used pyrethroid at 3 times the recommend level and found live mites one day later.



So I willing to spend the $100.00 frog skins on one other mitiside. The choices seem to be.

abamectin

Chlorfenapyr


Etoxazole-Does not affect the adult stage mite

Venerate-Not sold on this one. Mainly because I understand it less than the others.

Botaniguard- Makes me nervous because it has Pyrethrins and Beauveria bassiana .


Any advice much appreciated.
 

dlxtpnuo

Active member
I have to get my brain dead ass off this PC but I totally agree a single mitiside will not work. In fact I proved it because I just used pyrethroid at 3 times the recommend level and found live mites one day later.



So I willing to spend the $100.00 frog skins on one other mitiside. The choices seem to be.

abamectin

Chlorfenapyr


Etoxazole-Does not affect the adult stage mite

Venerate-Not sold on this one. Mainly because I understand it less than the others.

Botaniguard- Makes me nervous because it has Pyrethrins and Beauveria bassiana .


Any advice much appreciated.

Cook em out!

Fill the tub with hot water, and dunk your pots in it. This will knock em right back, maybe totally. But I have yet to get rid of em all. I use tubs for a while, then I start over by sterilizing. They come from compost or something. Makes no difference to nutrients cus I use chems.
 
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