Spider Mite CONTROLS... Try This...

[chemberry]

mity wash works with lights on every 3 days it works i swear

 

[Seatown]

With lights on?...

Hmm

Think I'll give the Dr Doom bombs a shot, thanks for the info all

 

[Pantagruelion]

If you are late in flower then salvage them by making BHO. Cut and run. Dunking all of your plants in 1 oz neem oil extract per gallon of water. Once a day for three days. Kills the crawlers and breaks the egg cycle. OMRI too. Er, WSDA approved.

 

[bringyalungs]

Medic.....

Medic.....

Spider mites
Flower 5 weeks 2 days

Does the hot shot fogger work? Can't upload photos... I picked it up at Home Depot a couple years and it's been sitting. Can I throw this in the flower room during lights out?

http://m.acehardware.com//product/index.jsp?productId=29316076&KPID=17516585&pla=pla_17516585

 

[Gifted0ne]

Spider mites
Flower 5 weeks 2 days

Does the hot shot fogger work? Can't upload photos... I picked it up at Home Depot a couple years and it's been sitting. Can I throw this in the flower room during lights out?

http://m.acehardware.com//product/index.jsp?productId=29316076&KPID=17516585&pla=pla_17516585

Do not use poisons like that on buds, I wouldnt even use them in veg. Use something non toxic there are only a few i would suggest, the most effective stuff ive used recently is "Plant Cleanse" by Skunk Labs Horticulture. It removed my mildew as well, says it can be used through harvest so stick with something like that.

I've gotten really ill in the past when smoking buds that people treated with chemicals so im totally against it.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Do not use poisons like that on buds, I wouldnt even use them in veg. Use something non toxic there are only a few i would suggest, the most effective stuff ive used recently is "Plant Cleanse" by Skunk Labs Horticulture. It removed my mildew as well, says it can be used through harvest so stick with something like that.

I've gotten really ill in the past when smoking buds that people treated with chemicals so im totally against it.

I use worm tea gently poured over the flowers right until harvest.

It really holds back mildew, spider mites, etc. by outcompeting them and forming a biofilm that makes it tough to eat for the insects, and apparently doesn't give mildew much of a toe hold.

You can check whether it damages the trichomes by looking at them with a loupe. I haven't seen any damage yet.

Also, I find that pests and infections come in cycles, and as long as you can get through the cycle, it will go away. For instance, usually when the leaves start to fall, aphids travel along on them. After you get an aphid infection, mildew is not far behind, because aphids will spread their own bugs. However if you can get through the leaf fall period, the aphid problem is going to disappear with it.

 

[Gifted0ne]

I use worm tea gently poured over the flowers right until harvest.

It really holds back mildew, spider mites, etc. by outcompeting them and forming a biofilm that makes it tough to eat for the insects, and apparently doesn't give mildew much of a toe hold..

I generally don't recommend tea as a foliar because there are nematode that are dangerous to humans they can get inside your body and cause major issues. I always use tea in dwc but i wouldnt be comfortable spraying it around. Check out the Plant Cleanse stuff its on amazon and ebay also i think..

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I generally don't recommend tea as a foliar because there are nematode that are dangerous to humans they can get inside your body and cause major issues. I always use tea in dwc but i wouldnt be comfortable spraying it around. Check out the Plant Cleanse stuff its on amazon and ebay also i think..

If I thought it was dangerous, I wouldn't do it or recommend it.

However, you dry the weed, which won't be good for nematodes that live in moisture. And then you burn the weed, which would kill it again, I presume.

 

[buttbrain]

Spinosad (spell) tried it 100% success. Staple in my room hands down.
Bbrain

 

[mr. gt]

tagged. thanks

 

[Granger2]

buttbrain,
Similar results, but must use wetting agent for best results. I use simple CocoWet. Did you use spinosad without wetting agent or with? Thanks. -granger

 

[Gifted0ne]

........................

 

[TanzanianMagic]

If I thought it was dangerous, I wouldn't do it or recommend it.

However, you dry the weed, which won't be good for nematodes that live in moisture. And then you burn the weed, which would kill it again, I presume.

Oh by the way, it seems that Spinosad, which is a chemical, is toxic to bees.

I'll take my chances with the nematodes, which by the way don't survive months of drying and curing, before any hypothetical survivor gets 'challenged' by being torched when you smoke your weed.

The National Institutes of Health on Spinosad:

Rev Environ Contam Toxicol. 2003;179:37-71.
Spinosad toxicity to pollinators and associated risk.
Mayes MA1, Thompson GD, Husband B, Miles MM.
Author information

* 1Dow AgroSciences, Field Exposure and Effects Laboratory, 9330 Zionsville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46268, USA.

Abstract

Spinosad is a natural insecticide derived from an actinomycete bacterium species, Saccharopolyspora spinosa (Mertz and Yao 1990), that displays the efficacy of a synthetic insecticide. It consists of the two most active metabolites, designated spinosyn A and D. Both spinosyns are readily degraded in moist aerobic soil, and field dissipation, which is quite rapid (half-life, 0.3-0.5 d) can be attributed to photolysis or a combination of metabolism and photolysis. Spinosad causes neurological effects in insects that are consistent with the general activation of nicotinic acetylcholine receptors but by a mechanism that is novel among known insecticide compounds. Spinosad has a high level of efficacy for lepidopteran larvae, as well as some Diptera, Coleoptera, Thysanoptera, and Hymenoptera, but has limited to no activity to other insects and exhibits low toxicity to mammals and other wildlife. Although spinosad has low toxicity to most beneficial insects, initial acute laboratory tests indicated that spinosad is intrinsically toxic to pollinators. The hazard of spinosad to bees was evaluated using a tiered approach. Initial acute laboratory exposures were conducted, followed by toxicity of residues of spinosad on treated foliage, greenhouse studies to assess acute as well as chronic toxicity, confined field assessments, and finally full field studies using a variety of crops under typical use conditions. These data were used to assess the potential of adverse effects on foraging bees following the use of spinosad. This research has clearly demonstrated that spinosad residues that have been allowed to dry for 3 hr are not acutely harmful to honeybees when low-volume and ultralow-volume sprays are used. Further, glasshouse and semifield studies have demonstrated that dried residues are not acutely toxic, and although pollen and nectar from sprayed plants may have transient effects on brood development, the residues do not overtly affect hive viability of either the honeybee or the bumblebee. Field studies in which typical application methods of spinosad were used on a variety of crops have demonstrated that spinosad has low risk to adult honeybees and has little or no effect on hive activity and brood development. The collective evidence from these studies indicates that once spinosad residues have dried on plant foliage, generally 3 hr or less, the risk of spinosad to honeybees is negligible.

PMID:
15366583
[PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

 

[Granger2]

Yes, Spinosad is toxic to bees. Not an issue indoors. -granger

 

[gobyebye]

Couple of things

Persimilis and I'm not sure about the other predator mites need higher humidity for the eggs to survive. You also want to get them in vermiculite as they are more hungry then the ones that come on grape leaves which also contains bad mites for food on the leaves. If you veg for a long time lower your temps to 80 and keep your humidity at 55-60% to slow down the pest mites. Again it'll help out Persimilis. Also once all the pest mites are gone the Persimilis will eat each other.

Lady bugs can work BUT they'll eat the mites as a last resort food they work best on aphids.

Pyrethrin based products work good. Best application rate would be to spray once every three days three times in a row and then re apply every 5-7 days. The only thing about Pyrethrin is that it can cause the spider mite to lay eggs when its hit with a Pyrethrin spray.

Dr Doom bombs work good for a big knock down but with the new formulation of the carrying agent they seem to burn the leaves quite a bit more then they use to. Dr Doom Botanics works quite good and can be sprayed right onto the plants. Try to spray a few hours before lights come on as Pyrethrin is broken down in two hours by HID lights and also reduce leaf/hair damage.

End All like products use canola oil as a carrying agent and will damage leaves if sprayed too often and can leave a nasty taste if used past the second week of flower.

Safers soap works good by dissolving the outer shell of the mite/bug but again can damage leaves if used too often. Try to spray straight water in between application the remove the soap/oil.

Konk 418 in a Konk dispenser set to dispense in 7-15 intervals can control most bugs pretty good. Just set one every few light. The Konk dispense is expensive and a cheaper alternative can be a Ona Mist dispenser (although not as good as the Konk one) with a Dr Doom metered spray inside of it.

Spraying/misting water ever few days onto the plants goes a log way to keep mites down.

Another good mix which can be found in the How To Super Charge Your Garden book is to mix 20ml's of 99% ISO alcohol and 30ml's of 30% hydrogen peroxide and some watting agent into 1 liter of water. Then spray away. It kills most bugs.

I wish Growing Edge magazine was still around. Best hydroponics magazine there was.

Two other good preventative products that will deter mites and other bugs with extracts from other plants. Nutrilife SM-90 and Each Juice Essential Spray.

Do a little research man... lady bugs and preying mantis' are often thought to eat mites.. first of all lady bugs are too large to feed on the size of mites considering how minute they are.. theyre mouths are too large. you have to go to a nursery an buy alligators(baby ladybugs) and preying manti only feed twice a day so if you have an infestation you cant really rely on these AT ALL.. I found the best thing is SM90 it kills on contact and can be sprayed all the way until the 5th week of flower..not to mention it has a nice citrus scent haha

 

[sahdgrower]

God help us all

God help us all

If I thought it was dangerous, I wouldn't do it or recommend it.

However, you dry the weed, which won't be good for nematodes that live in moisture. And then you burn the weed, which would kill it again, I presume.

It is quotes like these that scare the bejeezus out of me. Come on guys really? If he "thought" it was dangerous. Sounds very scientific. It is also quotes like this that have forced me to grow my own bud. Irresponsible growers making choices that affect consumers health based on gut feelings is at least foolish at worst morally reprehensible and outright dangerous. Please people do A LOT of research before you use a product. Good information is available. Please also ALWAYS try as many safe products as you can use before turning to anything remotely chemical, including Pyrethrins. Furthermore anyone who uses Avid should be ashamed of themselves. I am not some kind of hippy tree hugger who hates chemicals. I use chemicals all the time in my everyday life of all sorts. However Avid is a systemic chemical and WILL remain in your finished product no matter how much you flush or how long you grow your plants. Please dont distribute your Avid contaminated product to the world. If you want to smoke it, go ahead but be responsible and do not let others smoke it without at least informing them of the idiotic risk they will be taking.

I don't have too much faith that my rant will stop anyone from using highly toxic poisons but if I can even get one person to reconsider....

Just do a little research on Monsanto, ADM and Roundup and you will learn an eye opening amount of how Big Agro manipulates the data and the market and distributes products whose long term health affects are not proven safe.

 

[Granger2]

There are multiple stickies on Spider Mites in the Cannabis Infirmary.

I use Nematodes in soil. They work great, but I don't know of a strain that will survive out of the soil for more than a short time. Correct me if I'm wrong, and what strain is it? Good luck. -granger

 

[TanzanianMagic]

It is quotes like these that scare the bejeezus out of me. Come on guys really? If he "thought" it was dangerous. Sounds very scientific. It is also quotes like this that have forced me to grow my own bud. Irresponsible growers making choices that affect consumers health based on gut feelings is at least foolish at worst morally reprehensible and outright dangerous. Please people do A LOT of research before you use a product. Good information is available. Please also ALWAYS try as many safe products as you can use before turning to anything remotely chemical, including Pyrethrins. Furthermore anyone who uses Avid should be ashamed of themselves. I am not some kind of hippy tree hugger who hates chemicals. I use chemicals all the time in my everyday life of all sorts. However Avid is a systemic chemical and WILL remain in your finished product no matter how much you flush or how long you grow your plants. Please dont distribute your Avid contaminated product to the world. If you want to smoke it, go ahead but be responsible and do not let others smoke it without at least informing them of the idiotic risk they will be taking.

I don't have too much faith that my rant will stop anyone from using highly toxic poisons but if I can even get one person to reconsider....

Just do a little research on Monsanto, ADM and Roundup and you will learn an eye opening amount of how Big Agro manipulates the data and the market and distributes products whose long term health affects are not proven safe.

I don't know what your beef is, but take it up with someone else. You quote my reply about using worm tea on buds into flowering, and you start yapping about Avid and other chemicals?

And by the way, you have not shown that using worm tea is 'dangerous'.

'Not very scientific' - you don't know the meaning of the word.

 

[INTENTS]

easy mite mix

easy mite mix

Per gallon of water add 2 tblsp. dr bronners liquid peppermint soap, 2 tblsp.veg. oil, and 2 tblsp. of rubbing alcohol. apply immediatly to tops and bottoms of leaves liberally once a day for three days..reapeat if necessary. the mites hate peppermint and the soap is anatural emulsifier. alcohol kills mites and egg on contact. veg. oil leaves foilage new and shiny. i have used this mix up til the week of harvest with complete success and no ill effects.hope this helps.

 

[sahdgrower]

I don't know what your beef is, but take it up with someone else. You quote my reply about using worm tea on buds into flowering, and you start yapping about Avid and other chemicals?

And by the way, you have not shown that using worm tea is 'dangerous'.

'Not very scientific' - you don't know the meaning of the word.

I have no beef with you personally. I don't know you. My beef is with people providing advice to other growers with little to no evidence to support their claims. I never suggested worm tea is dangerous, nor is it my job to prove that it is, rather if you are suggesting someone use a particular approach the impetus is on you to have some background knowledge on the subject and to know that the advice you are giving is safe and credible. The reason I added Avid into the same post is that same notion that "it seems ok to me" is constantly used to justify the use of something that is clearly toxic and definitely SHOULD NOT be used on our Maryjane. But still used frequently and advised frequently.

In my opinion this forum is a great tool to help growers of all levels, that being said the problem with this forum is too many people giving out too much advice as if it is gospel (especially a lot of people with little to no experience or expertise on the specific subject they are advising on). Now I as much as the next guy want to help everyone and give advice when I can, so if I feel the need to chime in on a subject, unless I am an expert I will add sturdy disclaimers to my suggestions. That way people reading it understand the evidence I have to support my claims.

I am not sure why you think I don't understand the meaning of scientific. I am only trying to add to the forum a degree of restraint. I am sorry you took offense. I did not mean to offend. I only ask that you are willing to defend and explain your positions/suggestions with some type of evidence, other than anecdotal. I should hope that an open forum of this type would encourage this type of questioning. Otherwise we may find the blind leading the blind. Again truly no offense directed to you personally, only the lack of a well thought out and helpful posting.