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Spider Mite BANE Of MY LIFE

cone

Active member
The best mothers for the last 4 years of my life were destroyed by the little fuckers can't believe these are gone to the plant.
completely distraught.

After 12 packs of BarnyFarms Bluecheese I finally found what I and a lot of people around me loved there is no chance of going through that lot again.

So onwards and upwards for a new special woman in my life.
 

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Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Use abamectin on that mum and she will be clean again..

Plant Vitality is a name of product,or you can use some other that have
also abamectin as active compound.
 

herbgreen

Active member
Veteran
Just saw something on getting lady beetle "larve"
start with that instead of the adults....these little larve beetles are killers of spidermites

A rosemary oil solution is also good but you need action now!
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
There are a number of products to use, and harsh chemicals are not an issue saving mothers, since they will be gone by the time the clones are vegged and flowered. If you can raise temps in grow rooms to over 120F for over an hour, should kill off all bugs. You need to be vigilant for a couple of months to make sure they do not get re-infested. I had broad mites which are the worst, and did not lose my GG4 genetics, but did lose complete grows, by the time I figured out what it was. I got rid of them with Snypes neem oil method -

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=268311

That method is for broad and spider mites. Spider mites are not nearly as bad as broad mites, to get rid of permanently.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Also, if you have plants in flower that are not infested, you can take cuts and veg them. It takes a long time and look like crap while reverting to veg, but could save genetics.
 

cone

Active member
Hey Dog

I tried everything in the book including Plant Vitality, Dr. Zymes, Guard N Aid For Spider Mite, It was worth a try nevertheless but just they were past the point of no return to little too late I'm afraid.

On the hunt once again!

Cheers fella.
 

cone

Active member
HerbG

It's too late chap they were cut a few weeks ago there was no way of recovery they also destroyed my new seedlings A.B. Normal AK47 X DOUBLE SOUR DIESEL, That's a strain definitely not available to buy anywhere.

The room is empty which is no good for me when I need the meds, It will be having a dam good clean when my carer returns from her holiday it's already had a Fortefog P Midi Fumer 1 more to go.

Cheers HerbG
 

cone

Active member
LocD

I've had a quick browse through and the part where he mentioned "dunk your whole plant into the solution" Is exactly what my mate and carer did with Nite Nite SpiderMite in a 20l bucket also with a blender mixing the water/Nite Nite SpiderMite round rapidly it created a sort of whirlpool effect but still the same outcome dead plants.

I know exactly where they came from I was gifted 8 Super Lemon Haze from a grower in Spain after a month of them veging in the clone/Mother room this was when the outbreak started, Th only thing stopping the treatment at the time was not seeing anybody for 2 days so I couldn't get into the room.

In hindsight, I should have listened to my gut instinct.

When I get hold of something special again they will be getting the treatment Snype explains.

It was too late to take cuttings off the flowering plants they were chopped before hand.

Cheers LocD
 

cone

Active member
DogS

It was a really bad infestation like I said to little too late.

I'm on the hunt for Stardawg seeds at the moment but from searching the forums I would have better luck looking for Unicorn shit.

Cheers StarD
 

Ready4

Active member
Veteran
With an infection that bad, starting new seeds will only encounter a new infestation, these mites leave eggs all over, etc. The way to correctly get rid of them, when you have plants that large that are infected, is to defoliate all but the very top leaves.
I was so frustrated some years back with those bastards. Tried ladybugs, just kept numbers lower. Finally tried Mighty Wash. No matter what anybody thinks about it, Mighty Wash took care of them. You have to be vigilant using that, respraying several times as eggs hatch. But they were eliminated and have not been back. Good luck with exterminating them from your room, it can be done.
 
Predator mites are my favorite spidermite solution. The Californicus predator is awesome to put on plants at the very beginning. As long as tempatures are in the 70s and humidity is not extreme, they will go H.A.M. on those spidermites. Anything over 85-90 degrees will cause your spidermite problem to get way out of hand. They love it hot and humid.
 

~star~crash~

Active member
With an infection that bad, starting new seeds will only encounter a new infestation, these mites leave eggs all over, etc. The way to correctly get rid of them, when you have plants that large that are infected, is to defoliate all but the very top leaves.
I was so frustrated some years back with those bastards. Tried ladybugs, just kept numbers lower. Finally tried Mighty Wash. No matter what anybody thinks about it, Mighty Wash took care of them. You have to be vigilant using that, respraying several times as eggs hatch. But they were eliminated and have not been back. Good luck with exterminating them from your room, it can be done.


hey peeps:tiphat:can someone kindly tell me just exactly how long broad mites can stay alive/dormant with no vegetation , or plant matter to inhabit....eggs in the rug? eggs floating around like nasty spores ? WTF?? how many months??? will heat treating a sterilized/stripped room prior to rebuilding a grow be a sufficient preemptive measure...broad mites shut my indoor down recently...i'm working with seedlings in a different area...can i infect them just from being exposed to the old room??? you get my drift??
 

cone

Active member
With an infection that bad, starting new seeds will only encounter a new infestation, these mites leave eggs all over, etc. The way to correctly get rid of them, when you have plants that large that are infected, is to defoliate all but the very top leaves.
I was so frustrated some years back with those bastards. Tried ladybugs, just kept numbers lower. Finally tried Mighty Wash. No matter what anybody thinks about it, Mighty Wash took care of them. You have to be vigilant using that, respraying several times as eggs hatch. But they were eliminated and have not been back. Good luck with exterminating them from your room, it can be done.

Ready4

No plants in their whatsoever.

The seeds are in a separate room quite a distance away they aren't going in that room till it's had a good few weeks cleaning.

Think it's time to break the old Nebuliser out of hibernation god it's been nearly 7 years since it was last used, I highly recommend them for high plant numbers I couldn't possibly imagine spraying hundreds of plants.
Coverage is so much better for getting in any places that would be a nightmare to get reach.
http://www.1-hydroponics.co.uk/miscellaneous/sprayers-foggers/nebuliser-hand-sprayer-maxi.html
11 years ago just checked when I last had spider mites had a little fun with a cheap microscope and adult mite, Amazing how they react to 1300 degrees of pure pleasure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5__hOkc7iQ

The room is getting emptied and fogged out First off is to rid of eggs! It isn't physically possible for any adult or juvenile mites to be alive in there not unless they have a new diet consisting of Orca, Wood and plastic.

So suffocation is out of the question, So onto the eggs.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
hey peeps:tiphat:can someone kindly tell me just exactly how long broad mites can stay alive/dormant with no vegetation , or plant matter to inhabit....eggs in the rug? eggs floating around like nasty spores ? WTF?? how many months??? will heat treating a sterilized/stripped room prior to rebuilding a grow be a sufficient preemptive measure...broad mites shut my indoor down recently...i'm working with seedlings in a different area...can i infect them just from being exposed to the old room??? you get my drift??

Many have been plagued by broad mites for long periods of time. I threw out all infected plants before I even identified the cause. Posted a picture, and a guy in Italy identified it immediately. Used microscope and confirmed them. I did not cure plants, I prevented new plants from getting them.



All I used was Snypes Neem oil method, which is in my first post in the thread. I let the infected tent sit for a month in dry cold (50F) area of basement, after spraying it down.

I also bought Essentria IC3, Safer insect killing soap, Mighty Wash, and Flying Skull Nume'em, which I never had to use, but rotation of products is advised in long term infestations, since they can become immune. I also started using sm-90, in hydro solution to make plants un-appealing to bugs.

One thing people overlook is how they become infected, which is quite often from flying insects, if not from an infected cutting coming in contact with other plants. Coco is notorious for fungus gnat plagues. If you do not get rid of flying insects, will never get rid of broad or other mites.

BroadMitesOnWhiteFly.jpg


Also over 120F should kill any bugs. If you are worried about cracks and crevices, use a blow dryer.
 

cone

Active member
Predator mites are my favorite spidermite solution. The Californicus predator is awesome to put on plants at the very beginning. As long as tempatures are in the 70s and humidity is not extreme, they will go H.A.M. on those spidermites. Anything over 85-90 degrees will cause your spidermite problem to get way out of hand. They love it hot and humid.

Predator mites will be abundant next time buddy have no doubt about it.
Temperature is something I only have so much control over, I think I can speak for the majority of UK growers we don't have sealed rooms with Air conditioning most have an active intake and outlet with a carbon filter.
It wouldn't work out cost effective due to the temperature being cool to freezing.
I use a sulfur burner up until the 2nd week of flowering I know people use them upto the 6th week but I wouldn't like breathing it in so I wouldn't want anyone else breathing it in.
 

cone

Active member
Many have been plagued by broad mites for long periods of time. I threw out all infected plants before I even identified the cause. Posted a picture, and a guy in Italy identified it immediately. Used microscope and confirmed them. I did not cure plants, I prevented new plants from getting them.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=51120&pictureid=1680755&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

All I used was Snypes Neem oil method, which is in my first post in the thread. I let the infected tent sit for a month in dry cold (50F) area of basement, after spraying it down.

I also bought Essentria IC3, Safer insect killing soap, Mighty Wash, and Flying Skull Nume'em, which I never had to use, but rotation of products is advised in long term infestations, since they can become immune. I also started using sm-90, in hydro solution to make plants un-appealing to bugs.

One thing people overlook is how they become infected, which is quite often from flying insects, if not from an infected cutting coming in contact with other plants. Coco is notorious for fungus gnat plagues. If you do not get rid of flying insects, will never get rid of broad or other mites.

View Image

Broad mites are something I don't want the nightmare of having, Are they bigger like the name suggests?
I'm looking into a microscope something with good optics and magnification 2000x minimum.

If what I read is true and can withstand low-temperature 16f I might just start the process off, If not a conservatory will do.

The problem with you being over the pond is some products aren't available over here which makes the task a little harder
Mighty Wash is readily available,Essentria IC3 is but at this time I have a lot debt to clear nearly £300,The SM-90 is the same story not available.

I know exactly where the mites came from ok it wasn't straight away but we all know they wait for the temperature and humidity then they become like wild rabbits.

I was gifted 8 Super Lemon Haze from a relative he had them brought over from Spain by all accounts, Anyway how he manages to pull 350oz every 3-4 weeks growing underground where the humidity and temperature is stupidly high I will never know how he hasn't been overrun by mites it's beyond me.

Cheers LocD
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Broad mites are something I don't want the nightmare of having, Are they bigger like the name suggests?
I'm looking into a microscope something with good optics and magnification 2000x minimum.

If what I read is true and can withstand low-temperature 16f I might just start the process off, If not a conservatory will do.

The problem with you being over the pond is some products aren't available over here which makes the task a little harder
Mighty Wash is readily available,Essentria IC3 is but at this time I have a lot debt to clear nearly £300,The SM-90 is the same story not available.

I know exactly where the mites came from ok it wasn't straight away but we all know they wait for the temperature and humidity then they become like wild rabbits.

I was gifted 8 Super Lemon Haze from a relative he had them brought over from Spain by all accounts, Anyway how he manages to pull 350oz every 3-4 weeks growing underground where the humidity and temperature is stupidly high I will never know how he hasn't been overrun by mites it's beyond me.

Cheers LocD

No, broad mites are smaller, opaque, and better at hiding. My first infestation I thought was spider mites, but no webbing. Must have been russett or cyclamen mites. Brownish red, with a number of forward pointing protrusions. I got them from bringing in plants from outside in northeast USA, along with thrips.

I am not a fan of coco, but using it again now, for covenience of being able to move plants easily. I store RO water for at least 3 days with BTI (mosquito dunks) floating in it, and have no fungus gnats.

Active ingredient in SM-90 is marigolds, so may be similar product in UK. There is a UK growers thread, with many useful members.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=195309
 

Ready4

Active member
Veteran
Ready4

No plants in their whatsoever.

The seeds are in a separate room quite a distance away they aren't going in that room till it's had a good few weeks cleaning.

Think it's time to break the old Nebuliser out of hibernation god it's been nearly 7 years since it was last used, I highly recommend them for high plant numbers I couldn't possibly imagine spraying hundreds of plants.
Coverage is so much better for getting in any places that would be a nightmare to get reach.
http://www.1-hydroponics.co.uk/miscellaneous/sprayers-foggers/nebuliser-hand-sprayer-maxi.html
11 years ago just checked when I last had spider mites had a little fun with a cheap microscope and adult mite, Amazing how they react to 1300 degrees of pure pleasure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5__hOkc7iQ

The room is getting emptied and fogged out First off is to rid of eggs! It isn't physically possible for any adult or juvenile mites to be alive in there not unless they have a new diet consisting of Orca, Wood and plastic.

So suffocation is out of the question, So onto the eggs.

Wish you the very best with that. The "It isn't physically possible" was a thought I had many times, but you will be probably be unfortunately surprised how the 'Borg" can survive when it seems impossible. Distant away means very little, they are terrible to deal with. The good news is with new seedlings, you only need to really look them over - with only a few leaves, you can pick them off( kill them all ! lol).
Their damn eggs last for a long time.
 

cone

Active member
No, broad mites are smaller, opaque, and better at hiding. My first infestation I thought was spider mites, but no webbing. Must have been russett or cyclamen mites. Brownish red, with a number of forward pointing protrusions. I got them from bringing in plants from outside in northeast USA, along with thrips.

I am not a fan of coco, but using it again now, for covenience of being able to move plants easily. I store RO water for at least 3 days with BTI (mosquito dunks) floating in it, and have no fungus gnats.

Active ingredient in SM-90 is marigolds, so may be similar product in UK. There is a UK growers thread, with many useful members.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=195309
Right I was going on the microscopic picture you showed,

No i hate coco but if it is the only thing at hand at the time it has to be done unfortunately.

Marigols don't spider mites or mites in general like to be round it? Very interesting!

I've finally had some success and some surprise not a nice one at that.

The good is my mates have there there own hydro store so I gave them a buzz today asking what they have in stock the answer was quite simple "Nothing we don't stock any of the average shit" Instead they have some stuff it's a bit naughty but will dissolve eggs of any kind and anything else living in the room so the nebulizer will be out tomorrow and the room will be having a dam good clean.

The bad is these little fuckers in my mothers plant! It's something that i have never seen them before even after searching through this place.

Clones nice and clean though.
 

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