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sound proofing
- Thread starter dragunn
- Start date
To answer the question Particle Board is a Better Deadner or MDF
Here's a vote for plywood cause it's stronger.
S
stoned teacher
Sorry guys, gonna disagree and vote for MDF as "deader" and about 25% heavier...some in the car audio world are starting to use birch or some other nice plywood because it flexes less, but thats not a concern in this application.....
Oh and MDF is so much easier to work with.....just have dust collection
I agree with an earlier post though...insulation helps a lot too...especially if you get the right stuff....
Sound proofing is one of those applications where we just need find the "industry" thats already researched and made products available....
http://www.audimutesoundproofing.com/
Oh and MDF is so much easier to work with.....just have dust collection
I agree with an earlier post though...insulation helps a lot too...especially if you get the right stuff....
Sound proofing is one of those applications where we just need find the "industry" thats already researched and made products available....
http://www.audimutesoundproofing.com/
Insulation might get you in trouble if you're otherwise pushing the temps limit in summer. The reason I voted for plywood is because I've used it and mdf with no noticeable difference in temps. MDF crumbles easy. If you're familiar with it's stengths and weaknesses it makes a nice product.
Attaching anything that humms/vibrates directly against the surface will more than likely increase the noise due to acoustics. I've used 1/4" rubber gasket with little relief. Hanging a fan with cords/straps makes less noise than directly mounted to the cab. A short piece of duct from the fan exhaust to a hole in the cab works pretty good. Air pumps seem to be noisy in cabs if placed directly on the shelf. Some are small and light enough to hang from the cord.
Attaching anything that humms/vibrates directly against the surface will more than likely increase the noise due to acoustics. I've used 1/4" rubber gasket with little relief. Hanging a fan with cords/straps makes less noise than directly mounted to the cab. A short piece of duct from the fan exhaust to a hole in the cab works pretty good. Air pumps seem to be noisy in cabs if placed directly on the shelf. Some are small and light enough to hang from the cord.
MDF is the most dense for the money. I have never seen it crumble... it has been used for decades in speaker enclosures. It is very strong at the 3/4 inch thickness. It will stop more sound then any plywood/osb/particleboard. It doesn't splinter either ;P)
Phillthy, I'm mostly talking about corners chipping, joints cracking, screws stripping, etc with cheap manufactured mdf products. I have no beefs with mdf. Hell, my cab is mdf and all is well. I didn't notice any difference in the sound from 1/2" plywood (old cab) to 5/8" mdf. An mdf cab that isn't moved around from time to time lasts much longer. My cab is pretty solid (and heavy as hell by the way) but I wouldn't want to move it around very much. These on the other hand have traveled very well and are plywood. Most home speakers are mdf and are not equipped for moves unless special care is taken.
samba
Active member
When I was trying to get my computer more silent,the rule is start with silent components!!!
Get something like this:
http://www.head-nature.com/04475?id=abggxJ2E&mv_pc=76
Your fans are going to be the noise makers!
Use sound isolated ducking and a silencer
Use a air cooled hood, as you will need less cfm of your fan
Try to get cool air in to your box/room(, as you will need less cfm of your fan)
Just some toughs
Get something like this:
http://www.head-nature.com/04475?id=abggxJ2E&mv_pc=76
Your fans are going to be the noise makers!
Use sound isolated ducking and a silencer
Use a air cooled hood, as you will need less cfm of your fan
Try to get cool air in to your box/room(, as you will need less cfm of your fan)
Just some toughs
S
stoned teacher
Phillthy, I'm mostly talking about corners chipping, joints cracking, screws stripping, etc with cheap manufactured mdf products. I have no beefs with mdf. Hell, my cab is mdf and all is well. I didn't notice any difference in the sound from 1/2" plywood (old cab) to 5/8" mdf. An mdf cab that isn't moved around from time to time lasts much longer. My cab is pretty solid (and heavy as hell by the way) but I wouldn't want to move it around very much. These on the other hand have traveled very well and are plywood. Most home speakers are mdf and are not equipped for moves unless special care is taken.
The only times I've ever encountered any splitting while working with MDF is if I didn't predrill holes for screws, and if the cab is exposed to seriously high humidity/water. However, if you are worried about that, coat it with a few layers of deft before you build and it's for good.
I thought I had mentioned earlier, the reason some speaker boxes are beginning to be made out of plywood is that it flexes less , lighter weight, and that is good for a speaker enclosure, but MDF is denser, heavier, and blocks more actual noise...
"most" standard car audio boxes are still made out of MDF, and we've all seen crappy boxes last years....
Phillthy, I'm mostly talking about corners chipping, joints cracking, screws stripping, etc with cheap manufactured mdf products. I have no beefs with mdf. Hell, my cab is mdf and all is well. I didn't notice any difference in the sound from 1/2" plywood (old cab) to 5/8" mdf. An mdf cab that isn't moved around from time to time lasts much longer. My cab is pretty solid (and heavy as hell by the way) but I wouldn't want to move it around very much. These on the other hand have traveled very well and are plywood. Most home speakers are mdf and are not equipped for moves unless special care is taken.
Yes, MDF is very heavy! I used to use 1" in speaker enclosures for high SPL sound systems. Heavy isn't the word...
It is always good to drill a pilot hole before screwing MDF together. Otherwise it is a b!tch trying to screw into that stuff.
I would use a good mildew/mold resistant paint on the inside of an MDF enclosure for sure. Humidity can affect MDF like any "wood".
If you don't want noise in your box you have to put in a party wall that will allow you to mount equipment to it so that it doesn't all rattle about. I've found that by putting felt lining where wall meets the framing makes a big difference. On the new cab I am working on now the top opens up on a piano hinge, thus allowing you to lower the front of the box (the front pivoting on a piano hinge at the bottom of the front panel). Where there is wood to wood contact, there is felt. Foam rubber sucks up noise like there is no tomorrow and doesn't burn worth shit, so it's not a problem to use.
The poster who said the fans are making the noise isn't kidding. I have to build fan boxes for the bloom chamber and kill the noise. That calls for 1/2" plywood. I think 3/4" is over the top, but that's me...
The poster who said the fans are making the noise isn't kidding. I have to build fan boxes for the bloom chamber and kill the noise. That calls for 1/2" plywood. I think 3/4" is over the top, but that's me...
S
stoned teacher
Ahhh...for reducing vibration on mounting surfaces, if you want to go all out, ensolite is the best material for absorbing/dampening contact rattles.... http://www.professionalplastics.com/ENSOLITEPVC-NBRFAOM
This is the stuff we would use to mount enclosures to cars and ensure there will be no vibration between the two...
but i would guess rubber grommets would work for this kind of application....
This is the stuff we would use to mount enclosures to cars and ensure there will be no vibration between the two...
but i would guess rubber grommets would work for this kind of application....
TheShroomDude
Member
Phillthy, I'm mostly talking about corners chipping, joints cracking, screws stripping, etc with cheap manufactured mdf products. I have no beefs with mdf. Hell, my cab is mdf and all is well. I didn't notice any difference in the sound from 1/2" plywood (old cab) to 5/8" mdf. An mdf cab that isn't moved around from time to time lasts much longer. My cab is pretty solid (and heavy as hell by the way) but I wouldn't want to move it around very much. These on the other hand have traveled very well and are plywood. Most home speakers are mdf and are not equipped for moves unless special care is taken.
Hey Disco did you paint, stain or do anything to the outside of the mdf cab?
If not what would look ok a stain or paint?
S
stoned teacher
I hope you don't mind me chiming in and answering that one shroom dude..
That cabinet looks painted....
You've got unlimited options for MDF....
I've carpeted, veneered, vinyled, painted MDF....Personally I wouldn't do much staining to MDF right on the MDF...If you're trying to get the nice home speaker look, veneer then stain it...
Your typical nice home audio speaker is MDF veneered, your typical proaudio is carpeted, roughly painted, or cheaply vinyled....
To paint MDF, just fill and sand to smooth surface, put on a few coats of deft to protect, prime and paint..... There's some specialty paints depending on the finish you want
That cabinet looks painted....
You've got unlimited options for MDF....
I've carpeted, veneered, vinyled, painted MDF....Personally I wouldn't do much staining to MDF right on the MDF...If you're trying to get the nice home speaker look, veneer then stain it...
Your typical nice home audio speaker is MDF veneered, your typical proaudio is carpeted, roughly painted, or cheaply vinyled....
To paint MDF, just fill and sand to smooth surface, put on a few coats of deft to protect, prime and paint..... There's some specialty paints depending on the finish you want
guanito
Active member
neither is very good.
you should line the box w/Homesote board, also called soundboard.
cut the pieces to size and stick them on w/construction adhesive - no screws or nails.
you're looking for the sound to pass through multiple densities of materials.
then caulk the corners and prime and paint the inside flat white.
you should line the box w/Homesote board, also called soundboard.
cut the pieces to size and stick them on w/construction adhesive - no screws or nails.
you're looking for the sound to pass through multiple densities of materials.
then caulk the corners and prime and paint the inside flat white.
I'd paint the inside flat ceiling white latex. You may need a primer if the mdf is raw. I'd also paint the outside the color of your choice. If the sun shines on it, don't paint it dark.
