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Sobergrower Grows Again - Gorilla Glue Seed - PPK - Mars Hydro

Sobergrower

Active member
A quick update for today. Plants are chugging along and back in a groove after topping. I kept the third and fourth nodes in tact. I am beginning to open up the centers and the shape is what i was hoping for.

The girl on the right is the one I defoliated under her skirt. It is a little easier to see her structure.

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The girl on the left is looking pretty bushy and her leaves are bigger. Because of the extra leaf size and mass it is a bit harder to see her structure.

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I am going to let them grow a bit more before putting them in any restraints.

Any thoughts on pruning the lower leaves is welcomed.

Peace…..SG
 
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Sobergrower

Active member
Man, just call me wrong way! I should have held out my hands to determine left and right (the one that makes an L is your left hand…..). I just realized I got them backwards. Some things never changeo_O:ROFLMAO:!
 
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negative37dBA

Well-known member
Veteran
Looking healthy and green there. It is a bit hard to tell because of the size but I see some of the leaf twist traits showing there...I think. Nothing purple or red yet tho. We will see as things move along.
Peace, negative.
 

Sobergrower

Active member
I couldn’t resist. Honest, I was very gentle with both of them!

I found these LST clips and have used them before. It appears to be less stressful on the plant. I may get some smaller ones or adjustable one for the future.

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Peace……SG
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey bro.......I see you got D9 in here for moral support so I`ll be over here on my bucket waitin for the plants to explode and fill in......but.......RH @70% ALWAYS was and is my friend in my grow area , and D9`s spot on about gettin rid of lower shit/fanleaves that light never gets to and wastes vital plant energy on that could be better directed toward the upper parts of both plants.....especially since the leaves are so wide on this particular variety.....but.......They`re still small at this point in the game so take note and act accordingly.......and.....

Take care , good luck , and........

Peace......DHF.......
 
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delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
i just thought they were showing a little stress from low rh but not bad. the leaf wrinkling and twisting could be a genetic trait.

what light schedule are you using?

hey fred!
 

Sobergrower

Active member
Hey bro.......I see you got D9 in here for moral support so I`ll be over here on my bucket waitin for the plants to explode and fill in......but.......RH @70% ALWAYS was and is my friend in my grow area , and D9`s spot on about gettin rid of lower shit/fanleaves that light never gets to and wastes vital plant energy on that could be better directed toward the upper parts of both plants.....especially since the leaves are so wide on this particular variety.....but.......They`re still small at this point in the game so take note and act accordingly.......and.....

Take care , good luck , and........

Peace......DHF.......
Thanks DHF! I exhaust into the crawl space and although I live in a dry climate am a bit concerned about RH over 60%.

As for the fan leaves, I think for now they will stay and drive growth but as the plants expand I will remove the lowers.

Couldn’t agree more on getting nuggets from D9!
i just thought they were showing a little stress from low rh but not bad. the leaf wrinkling and twisting could be a genetic trait.

what light schedule are you using?

hey fred!
D9, I can bump up the RH as noted above and watch for changes. I am currently running a standard 18/6 schedule for the lights.

SG
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
you're still vegging so 70% won't hurt you. i use 50-60% in late flower but as long as you have good airflow high rh won't hurt.

you want every leaf on every plant to show at least some slight movement. no dead spots.
 

Sobergrower

Active member
Sometimes things go well and sometimes I am given opportunities to learn from mistakes made. They say that a smart man learns from his mistakes but a wise man learns from the smart man. By sharing this mistake, maybe someone wiser than me will avoid it in the future.

A few days ago, I decided to start spreading out the limbs on both plants. I then decided to begin their training to even the canopy. I switched from using LST clips to electrical wire used for ties. When I checked on them the next day on of the plant’s limbs that were bound should major signs of stress in’s the leaves were wilting. I suspect that I damaged the internal flow on these limbs.

I have removed the binds and left the limbs intact for now to see if they will revive themselves. Time will tell.

The one positive thought is that because this started as a quadline adventure, this plant still has the third node intact and growing well if I need to switch it up to a standard manifold I can.


Picture of the wilting branch.
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Picture of the two tops from the third node.
image.jpg
 

Sobergrower

Active member
Well this is a little like watching grass grow😂!

It has been a few days since posting so here is an update. In the lower reservoirs the PPM is around 750 with an PH of 6.3. Yesterday, I mixed up 6 gallons to add back into the main feed reservoir at 850ppm and PH of 6.2.

I move the lights up a few inches and the plants seem to like that. I keep spreading the main branches out daily and I took a few of the large bottom leaves off. I am a bit nervous about doing any tying down and may just plan to scrog them out.

Right now I am planning on vegging them for a few more weeks or at least until they will fill the tent.

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Peace…..SG
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
they look pretty good! perhaps you should consider a lower ph input. try 5.5-5.6 for a change.

are you using the jack's 3-2-1? with fulvic and kelp?

during veg the solution strength in the recirculating part will be strongly pulled down and then, about 2.5 weeks into flower, it will begin accumulating.

at the point it begins accumulating i have been changing out the recirculating part just to refresh the nutrient balance going into flower.

even though it's in flower for the first 2.5 weeks it will still uptake in a vegetative fashion.

they need a lot of light now.

are you going to clone them or just run from seed each time?
 

Sobergrower

Active member
they look pretty good! perhaps you should consider a lower ph input. try 5.5-5.6 for a change.

are you using the jack's 3-2-1? with fulvic and kelp?

during veg the solution strength in the recirculating part will be strongly pulled down and then, about 2.5 weeks into flower, it will begin accumulating.

at the point it begins accumulating i have been changing out the recirculating part just to refresh the nutrient balance going into flower.

even though it's in flower for the first 2.5 weeks it will still uptake in a vegetative fashion.

they need a lot of light now.

are you going to clone them or just run from seed each time?

Hey D9 , thank you for continuing to check in on me and the grow! I have been seeing a swing in the PH in the sub irrigation portion. It has been swinging upwards. My last add back to the main reservoir I did drop the PH DOWN TO 6.0.

I am using the Jacks 321 with fluvic and kelp as you described in another thread. I think the nutrient strength is still on the low side. The new growth tends to be a lighter green. My bulk reservoir is running around 850 ppm.

My last grow I switched to Jacks Bloom Booster formula for the first two weeks of flower and had good results. I am planning to do this during this grow as well. I swapped out about half of the volume in the sub irrigation portion so it was still benefiting from the 321 and add ins.

I did raise the light a few inches and the plants have seemed to respond positively.

I do plan on pulling a mother clone off the plant on the right. It seems to have a better structure, stronger and thicker main stalk, larger leafs, and better internodal spacing. I will probably pull three or four clones either right before switch or a week after.

SG
 

Sobergrower

Active member
Hey @delta9nxs, I did check the PPM /PH in the sub irrigation this morning. Ppm we’re holding around 760 and PH was around 6.6.

I have a pump in on if the tubs that circulates nutrients every feed cycle. I use this to pull nutrients into a five gallon bucket and add PH down and then pump it back into the bucket with a third pump. This works well and helps me from overshooting when making adjustments.

I brought the ph down to around 6.1 in the sub irrigation system and adjusted the bulk reservoir to 6.2.

Thanks for reminding me to check on things.

Peace…...SG
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
so it looks like your ph is constantly climbing. this is normal in the ppk. i would try 5.5-5.6 in the bulk reservoir and let it steer the ph downward.

i don't do add-backs. i think it runs with greater stability by letting the bulk res run completely out before mixing a new batch.

i think i'm seeing slight interveinal chlorosis from a mag deficiency in your pics.

i'm wondering if your lighting is strong enough or perhaps you are mixing out of order.

the jack's 3-2-1 really should be written 3-1-2 as the mag sulfate should always be mixed in before the calcinit.
 

Sobergrower

Active member
so it looks like your ph is constantly climbing. this is normal in the ppk. i would try 5.5-5.6 in the bulk reservoir and let it steer the ph downward.

i don't do add-backs. i think it runs with greater stability by letting the bulk res run completely out before mixing a new batch.

i think i'm seeing slight interveinal chlorosis from a mag deficiency in your pics.

i'm wondering if your lighting is strong enough or perhaps you are mixing out of order.

the jack's 3-2-1 really should be written 3-1-2 as the mag sulfate should always be mixed in before the calcinit.

Thanks D9. I mix in the 312 order and make sure things are well mixed before moving on. After these are mixed I adjust PH and the. Let sit before adding fluvic and kelp.

I suspect that the chlorosis is probably from the higher PH. I will take your advice and mix up a new batch for the bulk reservoir at the lower PH values.

The light is a Mara hydro FCE-4800. I have been concerned about hesitant to lower the light too close to the tops of the plants. I struggle with understanding PAR and umol and daily amounts. Right now I am running the light about 12” above the plants. Do you have a recommendation to run them at 10” 8” or even closer?

4EB7BF70-682F-4D95-B2AE-0FDB60347CFF.jpeg
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
it must be ph related as everything else seems ok.

the lighting plots seem a little strange to me as they show 3 working planes. 8,10,and 12".

they depict the 12" plot as being overall more intense than the 8" plot.

that should be reversed.

it's probably happening because of the fixture design with the open areas between bars but that is common these days. most manufacturers are using the same basic layout for diode placement.

if the plots are accurate you may as well run the 12" height as it will be cooler on the plants.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
if you are delivering 1000 umols for 12 hours the cumulative total is 43.2 moles.

cannabis needs 40-50 moles per diurnal period.

the formula for moles is:

reading in umols 1000 x 3600 (number of seconds in an hour) x photoperiod in hours 12. divide by 1,000,000 and you get 43.2 moles.

i'm doing an experiment now using 1500 umols for 8 hours to get 43.2 moles per period also. i've done 3 runs with this regime and i really like it.

this creates a 16 hour dark period. i think this is producing a better terp profile among other things.

i'm seeing very healthy unstressed plants.
 

Sobergrower

Active member
if you are delivering 1000 umols for 12 hours the cumulative total is 43.2 moles.

cannabis needs 40-50 moles per diurnal period.

the formula for moles is:

reading in umols 1000 x 3600 (number of seconds in an hour) x photoperiod in hours 12. divide by 1,000,000 and you get 43.2 moles.

i'm doing an experiment now using 1500 umols for 8 hours to get 43.2 moles per period also. i've done 3 runs with this regime and i really like it.

this creates a 16 hour dark period. i think this is producing a better terp profile among other things.

i'm seeing very healthy unstressed plants.

I buy all of that. Mars hydro indicates 2.8 umol/j on their website. Fortunately for me, I found a coocoolator online that converts this to DLI which spit out an answer of 64.8 (based on 18 on 6 off cycle). I am contemplating lowering my light cycle to something like 14-16 hours on. I have a week or so before I flip them.

I would love some feedback on my rational

Peace….SG
 
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