Hand dunk my man! It's what I do in the early stages, even with clones from the same mom. When you do flood, the solution shoudnt touch the rockwool. When you hand dunk, it should touch the rockwool.
-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Snype's Guide To RDWC - Part 1 - Featuring Chemdog Double Diesel & 2,000 Watts!
- Thread starter Snype
- Start date
Hand dunk my man! It's what I do in the early stages, even with clones from the same mom. When you do flood, the solution shoudnt touch the rockwool. When you hand dunk, it should touch the rockwool.
sahdgrower
Member
I thought I should not completely dunk the rockwool as it would get too wet. I have been using my weed scale to top them off carefully. Shooting for 80%ish saturation. Sound about right? Also noticed the tap root already came out of the bottom on a few of the seedlings and then it turned brown at the end as if it was "air pruned" not sure. I never observed the details as closely as I currently am. Would you suggest I just go ahead and put them in the net pots? Or I was also thinking about rigging up something to keep them suspended and the root zone dark. Or just let them keep filling up the rockwool? Also have em under 46w of floro
I was talking about if you are hand dunking suspended 5" pots. I would have those cubes at the very bottom of the pot once I saw the root. Take the paper / plastic off of the cube. Place in small net pot (6" or smaller) and pour rinsed clay pebbles / hydroton into the pots. Let them hang. You dont weigh cubes that have roots. Only cuttings with no roots. The cube is not supposed to dry out. Why do you think that I hand dunk every 3-24 hours depending on condition. For nutes I would only use Technoflora B1 Red at maybe 0.5 - 1 teaspoon per gallon until they are bigger to handle nutes. You hand dunk by looking at the bottom of the pot. When the cube is not almost dripping wet, it should be dunked. They may all be different. They most likely will be dunked every 24 hours for maybe the first 5 days but only you will know.
sahdgrower
Member
Heya Snype, I keep having questions for you but I don't want to turn this into Sahd asks snype stuff posting. So just wondering if I do a grow journal would you mind following it and commenting from time to time? Do you think IC users would appreciate me posting a novice grow journal?
I think a journal is a great idea. I would only follow it and provide you much help if you used my methods 100%, including Veg-A and rooted cuts in Grodan Mini-Blocks. It might take time for you to get what you need but trust me, it will be worth it in the end.
sahdgrower
Member
Well I am following all of your advice. The one exception I guess is that I have to take these gals all the way through from seed this run. I will of course take cuts from them and establish moms but I just have no other option timewise than to get these gals all the way through. In the process I will be building two additions to my grow room to use one as the Veg room and the other will be a second flowering chamber so I can run 2 different pheno's in RDWC.
My seedlings are currently looking nice. I have em in 5.5" net pots. Sitting on the bottom and surrounded by hydroton. As they get taller I will fill in more hyrdroton to develop axillary roots. Lots of roots already peaking out of the bottom of the rockwool cubes. Currently hand dipping as needed to keep moist but not drenched, using Technoflora B1 red at .75ml/liter in ph 5.8 water (kept this low due to the rockwool). Water at room temp 75F. Under fluoro lights. Still have them isolated from my grow room which I believe I will deem sterile and pest free this evening. I am going to revamp the room to make it much more pest resistant. I will post a new journal soon. Maybe this evening with pictures of all I got set up. I really am excited to have some help in this.
My seedlings are currently looking nice. I have em in 5.5" net pots. Sitting on the bottom and surrounded by hydroton. As they get taller I will fill in more hyrdroton to develop axillary roots. Lots of roots already peaking out of the bottom of the rockwool cubes. Currently hand dipping as needed to keep moist but not drenched, using Technoflora B1 red at .75ml/liter in ph 5.8 water (kept this low due to the rockwool). Water at room temp 75F. Under fluoro lights. Still have them isolated from my grow room which I believe I will deem sterile and pest free this evening. I am going to revamp the room to make it much more pest resistant. I will post a new journal soon. Maybe this evening with pictures of all I got set up. I really am excited to have some help in this.
sahdgrower
Member
forgot to mention I have my gals suspended as you recomended.
i dont understand how you can add more hydroton later. Anyway, everything else sounds good. Link me to your journal when you make it.
sahdgrower
Member
Well this is because I didn't want to ask too many questions... see I told you my roots were poking out of the bottom of the rockwool and you told me I should put them on the bottom of the net pot. I was a little confused because the seedlings were only 2 days old and about 1" tall. I figured maybe you didnt realize that but anyway I wanted to roots to grow out as directed. So I put my girls in the bottom of the net pot and put hyrdoton around them up to the top of the rockwool cube (about 1.5") and then stuck the net pots in my dry E&F system so the roots would be suspended. As the plant grows I will add hydroton almost up to the lowest node. Thus Axillary roots will grow and add to the overall tap root sturdiness/length. At least this is what I thought you had in mind. Results are looking good, tons of roots coming out of the bottom of the cubes and I imagine the sides as well.
Sounds great! Perfect! I cant wait to see pics. Im going to grow your plants for you from my screen! You're in good hands.
sahdgrower
Member
Ok started grow diary,
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=276848
please any and all stop by and keep me on the right path. I thank you all!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=276848
please any and all stop by and keep me on the right path. I thank you all!
Snype,
Do you have a rez hooked up to the epicenter?
Was wondering if you have ever tried to do a zero change out of the solution by keeping the rez filled with "nuted" soution? Or possibly have a slightly stronger solution in the rez to supply for the increased demands as the flower process progresses (ie 4ml:6ml to start with system filled and the rez being used for auto-topoff is filled with 6:9).
Curious what your findings were if you have done this...was watching some videos on youtube from the Current Culture UC guys saying they do this. But you know how manufacturers will tell you what you want to hear....
Guessing the solution would probably go out of balance or something. But it would be nice for auto pilot!
Do you have a rez hooked up to the epicenter?
Was wondering if you have ever tried to do a zero change out of the solution by keeping the rez filled with "nuted" soution? Or possibly have a slightly stronger solution in the rez to supply for the increased demands as the flower process progresses (ie 4ml:6ml to start with system filled and the rez being used for auto-topoff is filled with 6:9).
Curious what your findings were if you have done this...was watching some videos on youtube from the Current Culture UC guys saying they do this. But you know how manufacturers will tell you what you want to hear....
Guessing the solution would probably go out of balance or something. But it would be nice for auto pilot!
I tried this multiple times in the past. It doesnt work. Somehow, an imbalance of nutrients occurs and my data show that plants stop eating. It always happens to me when you add twice the solution that the system holds. So in my old 12 bucket system, it holds 40 gallons. When I first put my solution into the system, after adding back an additional 80 gallons is when the plants stop eating. So you can attach a top off with float valve to your system, but I would still change out the entire solution every 2 weeks. In 2 weeks, my 10 bucket / 30 Gal system uses at least 56 gallons of top off.
I completely change out my water every 7 days. Guess you can go 10-14 days early on, mine from seed really start a growth spurt after 4-5 weeks.
To automate, you can hook up your drain pump to a timer and use float switches (Little Giant makes them or also aquarium supplies) to turn them on/off hooked to the timer. Hook a solenoid valve (always on or always off depending if your using to to irrigate or flush too) too up to you fresh water intake.
Just make sure you're there to add fresh nutes unless you want to also add auto dosing. You can start with auto dosing just with keeping the pH steady & remove one chore at a time, then add the nutrient automation later.
I know Kerick Valve makes some nice big pvc float valves (float valves use the "float balloon" and float switches are electric switches pneumatically operated for on/off) for 1/2"-1" tubing for your fresh water intake. Surprisingly when I designed one for use with an Intellidose system all I needed was 1/2" RO gravity fed intake (82 gallon rdwc system) as the timing for dosing nutrients can keep up with the fresh water flow.
Oh, some nice 120 volt solenoid valves I like are WIC 2POG Series 1/2"-1" valves, normally open. Rainbird and other brands (Toro...) also makes them for irrigation systems (Home Depot & Lowes have them), these are normally closed and 24v although you can get 120v. You want ones with 0 or low operating pressure for your ro intake supply unless your fresh water's pressurized - and you can use a booster pump for that.
Last edited:
JamesFarmer
Member
Hey Snype,
I am running my first round using your 1:1.5 GH mix. Blue Widow @ week 5 1/2 of flower. I had been running Lucas in the past (1:2). I am running significantly lower TDS than I had in the past. I started higher (500ppm) and saw signs of excess N. I backed off to about 380ppm and they have been happy until the last two days. I am seeing what looks to me like a K deficiency. See pics below.
I am fighting the urge to switch back to Lucas with the higher P & K.
Does this look to you like K deficiency? If so, should I stick with the 1:1.5 ratio and kick my TDS up or change my nute ratio to increase P&K at similar ppm's?
Thanks
I am running my first round using your 1:1.5 GH mix. Blue Widow @ week 5 1/2 of flower. I had been running Lucas in the past (1:2). I am running significantly lower TDS than I had in the past. I started higher (500ppm) and saw signs of excess N. I backed off to about 380ppm and they have been happy until the last two days. I am seeing what looks to me like a K deficiency. See pics below.
I am fighting the urge to switch back to Lucas with the higher P & K.
Does this look to you like K deficiency? If so, should I stick with the 1:1.5 ratio and kick my TDS up or change my nute ratio to increase P&K at similar ppm's?
Thanks
Attachments
Not sure if the "Blue" stands for Blueberry but if it does you may have a tough time. I always grow Blueberry genes in soil. In my experience they are usually very light feeders. It would be hard to make a diagnosis on your limited information. If you think your past formula would do better for those gene's, try it out and let us know.
JamesFarmer
Member
Thanks Snype,
It is Bluberry x White Widow.
I don't have any solid info leading me to think the old formula would be better. I am trying to decide what would be the best course of action.
Do the pics look to you like I am on track as far as K deficiency? I am seeing small rust colored spots near the end of the leaf and rusty appearing discoloration on the leaf margins.
RDWC system 50 gallon capacity.
110lpm air pump with 8 airstones
600gph recirc pump
1/4hp chiller running 67F
1k+ Air Cooled HPS
Nutes:
General Hydroponics per Snype's regimen. 1.5:1 ratio of Bloom/Micro
RO water
Currently @ 380ppm on .5 scale
PH 5.8
.5ppm Cl (+/-)
Thanks again.
FJ
It is Bluberry x White Widow.
I don't have any solid info leading me to think the old formula would be better. I am trying to decide what would be the best course of action.
Do the pics look to you like I am on track as far as K deficiency? I am seeing small rust colored spots near the end of the leaf and rusty appearing discoloration on the leaf margins.
RDWC system 50 gallon capacity.
110lpm air pump with 8 airstones
600gph recirc pump
1/4hp chiller running 67F
1k+ Air Cooled HPS
Nutes:
General Hydroponics per Snype's regimen. 1.5:1 ratio of Bloom/Micro
RO water
Currently @ 380ppm on .5 scale
PH 5.8
.5ppm Cl (+/-)
Thanks again.
FJ
Its hard to say because some of your leaves look better but they look pretty dark. For that strain I wouldnt add the kool bloom so that would definitely change the ratio to compensate for that. I would get your pH up to 6.0 before you did anything and make sure it is calibrated. You cant expect clear answers unless you have more past feeding and pH data. I would need to know how they are eating day to day from the numbers that you are collecting. Is the pH rising or falling as the plants eat. So many questions. Hopefully you keep data.
Also the Micro is aways added before Bloom or you will have problems.
Also the Micro is aways added before Bloom or you will have problems.
