This dude knows what's up.
Variacs are the way to go. I have two of them and they run wonderfully. I think they were ~$70 shipped. They are pretty heavy, but as Boris says, the weight is a sign of reliability. The ones I have are adjustable from 0-150 volts. So I could actually overdrive my fans if I wanted to, although I probably never would do that for safety reasons.
where are you finding the $73 variacs?
they offer this on the can fan site
http://canfilters.com/accessories.html
is this a variac?