Silverback discussion about Mould.

[microgram]

Preventative maintenance is the way to go. It's hard though, budgeting everything in with your grow. Alkaline is basic, and baking soda is basic. I remember that quote from Jorge Cervantes very well, but you should be able to cure it, im most certain. It'll be a hell of a problem considering that the spores will be everywhere. You'll probably be better off starting from scratch, sterilizing, and getting clones from another reputable source.

One GREAT way to prevent fungi and mold problems is to dip the newly rooted clones into a very dilute bath of hydrogen peroxide (1/10 I believe is the concentration), and then the next day (or two) a Baking Soda bath (More dilute than the peroxide). So if you are uncertain of the condition of future clones, try this, it might make you a very happy and satisfied person.

Someone might flame me for this, but try and soak your girls in a bath of baking soda for an hour or two and just hope for the best. (obviously keep the soil/roots out of the solution) You'll want to use a heater on high to quickly dry out the plant as much as you can to prevent other problems. Hopefully your plants aren't (too far) into flowering, because you'll be doomed getting between the calyxes. If you're dead set on the genetics, chop her down to a few of the bottom leaf sets, chop out the buds, and start to re-veg, after substantial vegetative growth, dunk those b#tches.

I've heard these are the only two home-made solutions that work from a few growers I know.

I wish you the best of luck my fellow herbal friend.

UG!

 

[TLoft13]

I don't see a real necessetity to home brew Greencure, the price is more then ok, the big package will probably last forever.
Your method sounds interesting, though not applicable for outdoor.

 

[SilverSurfer_OG]

Wow excellent thread

Gotta tub of greencure winging its way over the pacific... just hope it gets through customs. They should be able to tell the difference between fungi and fungicide right?

R.I.P Silverback and thanks for the good info.

 

[dramamine]

I'm trying some GreenCure on my three outdoor Critical+, and I'm in a notoriously humid area. I'll report back what happens over the next month or two...

 

[argoagro]

I just read through this whole thread, and was sadly disappointed that nobody replied to two questions:

Does Megagrow ship discreet?

Has anyone found a local (Lowes, home de pot) source for Potasium Bicarbonate? I can get dish soap, neem, and a sprayer there.............

rip sb

 

[argoagro]

After a quick Wikipedia check on potassium bicarbonate (I knew it sounded familiar & common) listed uses as a fire extinguishing agent.

BC - This is the regular type of dry chemical extinguisher. It is filled with sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate. The BC variety leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned immediately to prevent any damage to materials.

 

[dramamine]

Argoagro,
Try Alternative Garden Supply online. They shipped fast and discrete.

 

[Rbz007]

I'm surprised to hear no1 mentioned clove oil for mould in flowers. It works like magic

 

[TLoft13]

Well i personally consider moldy weed not fit for consumption. I hit it once with Greencure to stop the mold and then the bud goes into the piletrash for icehash.

 

[ghostmade]

fck mould milk hasworked forme in the past and to the abovepost f -datt l 13-look into qwiso or nafta or bho aas i feel these form of hash is safer due to the harsh chem killing of and remin spores/cultures

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

this is a really good thread about all problems that we all face outdoors..i lost a shit load to mold this year but i found this thread a little to late to save a few strains but i have read thur here and i am gonna try try everthing greencure,milk,hydrogen perx,liquid copper and neem oil for next year..im also gonna be doing a few strains for wet climates..im at 38 lat north usa and we see all aorts of weather here..this thread needs to be keep alive if outdoor guerrilla growers can put this stuff in their arsenal and prevent the nitemare from happening

 

[gunnaknow]

It looks as though I was the first, still active member, to reply to Silverback on IC. I feel glad to have talked with him, RIP Silverback!

Kygiacomo, choose your strains carefully. Those with loosely packed calycyes and dry, fluffy looking trichomes, tend to promote better air flow and trap less moisture. Topping the plants so that they have multiple colas also makes it harder for any mold to spread.

 

[fluffygrrrl]

I got this info off hgtv and it works as a preventative, and much cheaper than greencure.

The ultimate fungicidal treatment is baking soda, when mixed into a concoction known as the Cornell formula. The Cornell formula consists of baking soda, horticultural oil and insecticidal soap (optional). To make your own supply of the Cornell formula, mix one tablespoon each of baking soda, horticultural oil and insecticidal soap together in one gallon of water. Shake mixture well and use as a spray. To keep baking soda agitated within the spray solution, James recommends adding a golf ball inside the spray apparatus.
When treating fungal disease, it is important to apply a fungicidal treatment every seven to 10 days in order to be most effective. Keep in mind that when applying either a spray or dust, make sure to apply the treatment evenly on the top and underside of the leaves.

 

[neongreen]

Topping the plants so that they have multiple colas also makes it harder for any mold to spread.

Silverback seemed to think that this was a bad idea since it encouraged plants to get more bushy... and I'm inclined to agree that laying your plants horizontally (or layering them as I did - see link to my thread "Blowfish/Trainwreck S1s and Taskenti (organic/outdoor)" in my sig for more details) would be a better solution.

That said, I have a couple of questions and am hoping someone could help...

Firstly, I can't find Greencure where I am, but have ordered some Potassium bicarbonate instead. What amount of Potassium bicarbonate do I need to add to what amount of water, and how much of the other ingredients (soap/oil) to use?

Secondly, I can't find horticultural oil either. Is there anything I could use as a substitute?

Great thread BTW, and it deserves to be revived! RIP Silverback.

 

[Team Microbe]

The big trick to avoiding late-season mold come down to two things:

1) Strain selection

Kush varieties tend to be denser and don't release moisture as well as other varieties such as blueberry crosses, and strains bred in cold/wet environments. Blue Widow has done very well for me. Also, epigenetics plays a huge role in resistance potential... seeds bred at the same latitude/environment as your location will do MUCH better than those bred elsewhere. There are companies that specialize in outdoor strains that are mold resistant and early finishing.



2) Pest-prevention

There are many pests that eat the plant and cause mold themselves, it's not just environmental. Spittle bugs eat plant tissue and regurgitate it into a protective mucus ball around their bodies; inducing bud rot. Caterpillars chew away at buds and kill surrounding tissue, causing the buds to mold. Spraying a Neem Oil foliar spray along with BT (for caterpillars) will help immensely reduce mold and keep production rates up. Stop spraying after the first week of flower. It's that simple...

 

[neongreen]

The big trick to avoiding late-season rains come down to two things:

I'm guessing you meant "mold/rot" instead of "rains"?!

The only ways I can think of to avoid rains is to grow indoors/under cover/in the desert

And yes, mold resistant/early finishing strains are a good idea. Breeders like ESBEN (Hybrids From Hell) specialize in strains that would fit into this category. Strains like Leb 27, Royal Dane, and Mighty Freeze are good examples.

 

[gunnaknow]

Silverback seemed to think that this was a bad idea since it encouraged plants to get more bushy... and I'm inclined to agree that laying your plants horizontally (or layering them as I did - see link to my thread "Blowfish/Trainwreck S1s and Taskenti (organic/outdoor)" in my sig for more details) would be a better solution.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I meant topping and training. You can train the new shoots so that the plant doesn't become too bushy. However, I have always preferred LST to topping, so I don't know why I didn't just suggest to train the plants.

I remember Silverback's old thread on horizontal planting, and your contribution of pics on page 9. For those who aren't familiar with his thread, please see below:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=81797

 

[neongreen]

Here's a little outdoor training from this year's outdoor. Posted these pics on another thread, but thought they might be appropriate here.

It's Chocolate Trip S1 that turned out to be a male, so I chopped and put the branches in water so I could collect pollen. It was also layered, but a bit too late and the layer didn't take - live n learn! Next time I'll layer sooner!

 

[DuskrayTroubador]

Does anyone have any experience with the hydrogen peroxide wash? One of my plants has PM visible on several leaves and I was planning on soaking the branches in hydrogen peroxide water when I harvest.

Does anyone know if it really gets rid of all the PM in the buds and does it affect the buds negatively in any way?

It's too close to harvest to spray anything, so it's about my only option at this point.

 

[RetroGrow]

Milk. Skim milk to be exact. 10-1 ratio of water to milk, sprayed on plants. Will kill PM and plants love it. Will not hurt them in flower.