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Silicone sealer or spray foam? Reflectix or Panda Film?

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
the cost of plywood makes my balls hurt. im suprised you went that rout.

your insulation job looks good. keep it up, and take all the time you need. wont regret it.

keep the gaps as small as you can, and keep the compression of the batts to a minimum. the compression for rockwool is supposed to be like... less than 5% width wise.
 

SBudz08

Member
queequeg152 - I got all the wood off Craigslist super cheap! Yeah I did research everything before installing the Roxul. Great stuff and pretty easy to maneuver between properly placed studs... and easy to cut for everywhere else. Now to find some house wrap to put over the insulation...
 

J-zee

Member
Killer job man, u say a month , thats almost 2 the day on how long I've been working on mine too, same kind of set up in the garage . a few things I've learned is , stick every receipt from home depot n lows trips in ur wallet just pile it up n return it in one shot. Was faster than using POS self check out... A list!!! At all times and as soon as u thinkn of it , put it on there THAT moment!! I got amazon prime that comes in handy for items that under 35 for free freight. (Im always after a 19 dollar item plus the crazy freight) tell ur wife/gf/dog who ever u love em , but this shit has to get done and i would appreciate a hot meal since I'm working my ass off while u chill on the couch ( just kidding )(kinda) but u will get free time soon. I had to help my buddy get these clones out of his house to mine so i got mega rushed into providing a good home fast! Im not a carpenter at all, n im please with the turn out and yours looks great!! Always ask ur close friends that grow if they got any equipment thats free or super cheap, not sure bout u but my Craig's list is always flooded with grow eqp. I did wrap mine in a super thick plastic, used minimal staples and lots of liquid nails!! I did plastic to mostly keep out garage dust, pest, disease from other plants or dogs. Plus when i drill a hole on the oppisite side of the room from the fan, i know that air has crossed that room all the way, y? Cause it has mo choice and I'm god to that room. LoL plastic n liq nails r cheap . 6 cans of spray foam with 39 extra tips as stated above.
 

SBudz08

Member
Thanks for the kind words J-zee!



Just finished all exterior plywood, caulking, foaming and interior insulation. I'm about to put 6 mil plastic on the inside over the framing & insulation tonight and then a friend is coming tomorrow to help me cut holes for ducting and drywall. I totally feel ya on the wife/dog thing. It's a slow going process but I enjoy every minute of it and it's addicting!
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
i cant give you more rep for some reason.

i love the insulation. superb work. couldn't have done it better myself.

not that i know how to, or i am good install insulation or anything... just saying.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
might i be so bold as to ask where, generally speaking you live?

i ask because this effects where you should place the vapor barrier. youve probably researched this but thought id add that...

also id highly reccomend buying drywall clips when you reach that stage... makes things far easier than blocking with 1x's... and wont disturb any insulation.

id also recommend gluing and screwing the ceiling boards... takes longer, but this small building will probably be moving and prone to drywall pillowing what with no roof structure and joists underneath, you know what im saying?

nails are easy, but work loose over the years as lumber moisture contents fluxuate.
my moms place was just nailed, and virtually every ceiling is poped and pillowed. when i finish there there will be 12-14 inches of cellulose over this shitty ceiling... not only will it all have to be screwed up again, but we are probably going to just lay a new drywall ceiling suspended like a half inch to clear the old one... sucks but it looks terrible and will just get worse with another lb or so per sq ft.
 

SBudz08

Member
Summers can get above 100 degrees, but rarely humid. Winters can get down to the 40's but it never snows here. Fall and Spring are nice.

I was just planning on using my stud finder when it comes to finally mounting my equipment. What type of adhesive would you recommend for the ceiling drywall? These panels are the super heavy mold, moisture and fire resistant purple gypsum. Already got drywall screws.

Really appreciate your guidance along the way!
 

Lyfespan

Active member
Hello there, I too am about to under take the building out of a grow room just a lil larger than this, figured there were great suggestions in here. My room will be 21'x14' with 16', I was thinking of running 2x6 24 on center, with r-tech 1" foam insulation board on the inside, covered with panda plastic, insulate the walls with r- whatever for the cavit, and drywall on the exterior. I will be running 10 Nanolux 1000 watt de fixtures. Everything all caulked and sealed, ac in, and charcoal vented out, this space will be inside a semi climates controlled warehouse.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
put the foam on the outside... you will prevent most of the thermal bridging, but most importantly, head off any remote fire issues.

most folks do OSB for strength rather than the plywood mentioned above... ontop of that, a layer of foam. the foam is then taped and sealed up. then a layer of WRB wrap is put over that. the weather wrap could be omitted though being that you are indoors... its up to you.
the added sealing from the wrap will be somewhat marginal.

2x6's on 24s sounds find to me provided you are not planning on using the ceiling for storage or anything like that.... though i encourage you to seek additional advice

Summers can get above 100 degrees, but rarely humid. Winters can get down to the 40's but it never snows here. Fall and Spring are nice.

I was just planning on using my stud finder when it comes to finally mounting my equipment. What type of adhesive would you recommend for the ceiling drywall? These panels are the super heavy mold, moisture and fire resistant purple gypsum. Already got drywall screws.

Really appreciate your guidance along the way!

DAP makes several 'construction' adhesives for this work, but id shy away from anything expensive "super pro polyurethane" blah blah ... you just want that additional grab to head off issues with drywall pillowing... just get the drywall glue... it should be cheap latex or water based stuff. you dont need that premium stuff you use gluing thresholds down or what ever.

regardless of your climate i do think that the barrier on the inside is the way to go here... being that the room will likely see higher than usual humidity. however if you plan on using this place in the future... for regular house space, i would be concerned with a totally impermeable barrier in a cooling climate like mine... hot and humid where moisture will condense on the outfacing side of this membrane.

however in your case it sounds like the humidity drive will almost always going to be be inside to out so i dont think this concern is warranted.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
put the foam on the outside... you will prevent most of the thermal bridging, but most importantly, head off any remote fire issues.

most folks do OSB for strength rather than the plywood mentioned above... ontop of that, a layer of foam. the foam is then taped and sealed up. then a layer of WRB wrap is put over that. the weather wrap could be omitted though being that you are indoors... its up to you.
the added sealing from the wrap will be somewhat marginal.

2x6's on 24s sounds find to me provided you are not planning on using the ceiling for storage or anything like that.... though i encourage you to seek additional advice



DAP makes several 'construction' adhesives for this work, but id shy away from anything expensive "super pro polyurethane" blah blah ... you just want that additional grab to head off issues with drywall pillowing... just get the drywall glue... it should be cheap latex or water based stuff. you dont need that premium stuff you use gluing thresholds down or what ever.
I'm a general contractor, just don't have time for drywall nor do I want the wall weight of drywall at 4 flights hi. There will be no ceiling, all exhaust will be from one side at the very top of the wall, and A/C fed in from the bottom of opposing wall, 4 16" fans to move air around the room, smaller floor fans to circulate under the canopy. Lights hung from chain at a set height, tables for the room will be adjustable.


Just wanted to see if anyone else was using the insulation sheets instead of drywall?
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
Just wanted to see if anyone else was using the insulation sheets instead of drywall?

yea ive seen it. FWIW i think they polyiso boards are a bit more fire resistant than the XPS and PE boards.

they are not that bad honestly. not any worse than your average carpet underlay really. its a fire spread thing and a smoke generation thing...

you are also going to be damaging these boards from time to time... so be carefull i supose.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
yea ive seen it. FWIW i think they polyiso boards are a bit more fire resistant than the XPS and PE boards.

they are not that bad honestly. not any worse than your average carpet underlay really. its a fire spread thing and a smoke generation thing...

you are also going to be damaging these boards from time to time... so be carefull i supose.

From the gaf website

As unprotected polyisocyanurate will burn, fire safety precautions should be observed wherever insulation products are used.



R-TECH contains a flame retardant; however, it should be considered combustible and should not be exposed to sources of ignition. Do not allow highly solvent extended mastics, coal-tar products or their vapors to come in contact with INSULFOAM R-TECH.

Seems you heard wrong, but good looking out :tiphat:

Oh another huge down side to polyiso

NOTE: REPAIR ROOF LEAKS PROMPTLY TO AVOID ADVERSE EFFECTS, INCLUDING MOLD.

Where as r tech
Environmentally Friendly. R-TECH does not contain any dyes, may contain recycled material and the foam core is 100% recyclable.
¡ Insect and Mold Resistance. R-TECH is manufactured with an inert additive that deters termites and carpenter ants. R-TECH does not sustain mold and mildew growth.
¡ Water Resistance. R-TECH polymeric facers provide a surface that is virtually impervious to moisture.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
lol of coarse they burn.

they all will burn. but from what i recall reading polyiso burning creates a char layer and as a result takes longer to burn through.

sounds like you have a hardon for rtech though, use what ever you like.

polyiso also can be had with foil facing, which i imagine can only aid in fire resistance.
 

vostok

Active member
Veteran
Flat white paint does wonders... the money you save over the film goes on better lights and pots an stuff?
 

SBudz08

Member
Super productive weekend! Put in 6 mil vapor barrier and taped it all off top to bottom. Put in heavy ass 5/8" purple gypsum. Started cutting ducting holes in walls. Taped up all drywall and about 1/3 of the way done with mud. By the way I gotta say that N9511 masks are a MUST for anyone working with insulation and drywall. My throat got super irritated just being in there for 2 minutes without one. Rubber gloves are also awesome.

 

Lyfespan

Active member
Super productive weekend! Put in 6 mil vapor barrier and taped it all off top to bottom. Put in heavy ass 5/8" purple gypsum. Started cutting ducting holes in walls. Taped up all drywall and about 1/3 of the way done with mud. By the way I gotta say that N9511 masks are a MUST for anyone working with insulation and drywall. My throat got super irritated just being in there for 2 minutes without one. Rubber gloves are also awesome.

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Hahahahaha yeah year of conditioning allow me to eat all the drywall dust I want. Remember it's score one side, break, and cut paper. Not saw through the sheets cutting it like lumber
 

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