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Should I worry about becoming rootbound?

BUDDY BOY

Active member
he might need superthrive but the plant needs nitrogen.

Thats so true... You have to learn your plants and figure out where they are comfortable at and at what levels. In this hot ass weather they take less nutes and more water.. If you aint got it nailed down by now keep at it and figure it out. One thing for sure, yellowing is by far better than burnt to hell.

take 5ml. of piss to a gallon of water.... that should help i use it time to time

Are you serious????? WOW!!!! The stuff you read on these boards. Not knocking your method,BUT, some stuff folks say will have your plants dead as ever...

For that yellowing I would just up my dose of my veg ferts a tad bit. If you went 1 tsp/ gallon then go 1 1/2.. This is just an example. Kelp, and Earth Juice Microblast, are always a favorite... Clears up deficiencies immmediately.

GOOD LUCK..... Looking good.

OH yeah, duh, the original question...... Nope, I would worry about it. Let them do their thing, flower them, and once they are done, look at the rootzone and now you know from here on out what pots is sufficient.

Hope that helps
 
G

Guest

If you see feelers coming out the bottom, its a good sign it could use a transplant. Just let it dry out a little, and push the bottom of the pot to slide the plant out to examine the root mass. It dosnt hurt anything, and should give you the answer.

I always transplant or double pot going into flower if needed for that great growth spurt after going into fresh soil.
 

MattHend

Member
Rootbound it is

Rootbound it is

Well I just watered with stronger nutrients and a SMALL dose of superthrive. As soon as I finished I noticed a feeler or two at the drain holes. Do I need to transplant or can I double pot (which would be much easier to do about 40 times) ? Thanks so much and I look forward to sharing what knowledge I can!
 
G

Guest

Whats hard about transplanting?

when stacking pots - dense roots are not as likely as roots surrounded by fresh soil.



if ya wana grow budz, sometimes ya gotta transplant your plants

I like to wait till the plant needs a watering, so it a dry solid mass of root ball.

Toss some dirt in the bottom of the new pot,, pop the plant out of the old pot - loosen the outside layer so the roots will be into the new soil - plop the plant in and fill with soil - pack firmly and water lightly.
FOURTY TIMES?

FOURTY?

are you THAT stoned?

maybe growin is too much work for you.
 
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MattHend

Member
ok, maybe i am a bit lazy... had to ask. Thanks and as soon as they dry out I will be transplanting. Is it just easier to transplant dry, or better for the plants? I am trying to decide if I should do it tonight or wait till the medium drys. Thanks a lot!!
 
G

Guest

I choose going to larger pots for most of my plants. I usually double pot my smaller plants to give them additional height to match my more robust plants. Just trying to keep the canopy even.

And for the sceptics, double potting does work. Its all about transplant timing.
 

TrustNoOne

Member
with promix it's easier to have the soil on the dry side. the soil shrinks away from the pot as it dries. i don't mean not a drop of moisture dry, just on the dry side.
some wait a day to water after tranplanting, i water right after.
double potting also works well for some but for me it's just as easy or easier to repot.
try both maybe and see which works the best for you.
 
that super thrive is pretty damn strong...... but i would use some drops of that for the plants and its great to re pot, to get more pot...
 
i do agree with both BUDDY BOY, and TrustNoOne on the urine issue but if you are ever in a pinch do ur home work and read up on different ways to help ur plants out. be one with the plant and figure out what it needs. as for Urine its high in (n) and works really well when mixed with water. i personal use 5ml per gallon with no other things mixed and make sure after you mix to regulate the ph. i also use fox farm products and liquid karma, but when i use urine i never use my products with it.



an old buddy thought me this when i had problems with my Alaskan Thunderfuck, and c99. but once again its only a suggestion.... :joint:

as far as root bound just like every body else has said if your working with a 3 gallon bucket pop the plant outta there look at the root ball if she's looking pretty full transfer over to a 5 gallon bucket..... the bigger the root ball the more she'll produce, under the right conditions.Human Urine As A Fertilizer
 
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Omega Rasta

Member
Great advice and info from the responders here.

...:::tossin my 2 cents in......

If you feel you don't want to transplant or can't, try dropping back on the feeding strength; only if the plant is feeding fairly fast tho, and feeding or watering more often. That's if the roots are soaking up the waterings and feedings very fast.

Bottom line if you're close to root bound or reaching root bound problems, it's time to put bigger shoes on those bigger feet.


Blessed
Omega Rasta
 
G

Guest

MattHend said:
ok, maybe i am a bit lazy... had to ask. Thanks and as soon as they dry out I will be transplanting. Is it just easier to transplant dry, or better for the plants? I am trying to decide if I should do it tonight or wait till the medium drys. Thanks a lot!!

I like dry soil because, if you water at transplant - it will hurt them worse if they don't need that drink. If I can time it to when they just start to wilt near ground level, (meaning down low on the plant, not wilting to ground level, that's usually bad) that's about perfect. Plus, the soil breaks loose from the old container with a solid tap while inverted.

I like to loosen the soil and roots at the outside edge - GENTLY, but so the root tips are free. - Don't want to break them or be mean - just let them know there is new good stuff.

I start in 8 oz cups then, 16 oz, then 1 gal. usually 2 plus weeks at each stage. seeds and clones both.

A fair bit of transplanting, but worth the effort - I always get very dense rootballs and solid growth up top.
 
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