Short Path Distillation
- Thread starter Thread starter Symbiotic AD
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powerbong2000
Member
depends on how you are defining efficiency.
Wiped film is faster higher thru put.
using is short path head has less waste.
Wiped film is faster higher thru put.
using is short path head has less waste.
powerbong2000
Member
I would argue that WFE is more efficient in the amount of work vs yield.
thegreenman91
Member
Oil darkens. Temp drops slightly then starts to spike. It's entirely up to you when to stop the process and pull your fraction.
Daub Marley
Member
Great question!!!
Here's my take:
Green could obviously be chlorophyll, but if it comes out in the first fraction during short path distillation then it's likely NOT chlorophyll and is a mixture of yellow and blue which are both cause by flavanoids.
Yellow- flavanoids, and related compounds
Red-Carotenes
So in my opinion the cannabinoids have no color to them. This is apparent if you have seen some of the crystal clear distillates that are popular.
Some thoughts
In alcohol distillation simple stills with short large vapor paths(pot stills) are sometimes accompanied by what is called a thumper, basically a second chamber in sequence for the liquid ethanol to enter and re-distill itself from the build up of heat/pressure coming from the original boiler, serving as a second pass, then onto the final condense to receiving vessel.
It seems to me that a similar technique could be applied to cannabinoid distillation for more efficiency in grabbing a tighter fraction in one go.
Also when using a fractional reflux still for ethanol distillation you find that a tall skinny head vs pot still head vapor path ,significantly increases the ability to reach high purity and thorough fractions. slow and gentle for clean cuts.
but obviously degradation of thc and cbd is a large factor to weigh in contrast with head and sequence modifications. theres always some sort of trade off.
scaling up a simple still with multiple receiving flasks used as second or third distillation chambers in sequence,finding a head you like, plus precise vacuum and temp control, seems like a great way to refine cannabinoids,terps, or even solvents if you need to, very malleable set up in comparison to some fancy wiped film that comes with a manual, fuck all that. be the engineer from the ground up.
a letter to my self i guess....out loud
here when i have some more time i will post my current parts list for a distillation set-up and hopefully get some input and thoughts from you guys.
happy friday
In alcohol distillation simple stills with short large vapor paths(pot stills) are sometimes accompanied by what is called a thumper, basically a second chamber in sequence for the liquid ethanol to enter and re-distill itself from the build up of heat/pressure coming from the original boiler, serving as a second pass, then onto the final condense to receiving vessel.
It seems to me that a similar technique could be applied to cannabinoid distillation for more efficiency in grabbing a tighter fraction in one go.
Also when using a fractional reflux still for ethanol distillation you find that a tall skinny head vs pot still head vapor path ,significantly increases the ability to reach high purity and thorough fractions. slow and gentle for clean cuts.
but obviously degradation of thc and cbd is a large factor to weigh in contrast with head and sequence modifications. theres always some sort of trade off.
scaling up a simple still with multiple receiving flasks used as second or third distillation chambers in sequence,finding a head you like, plus precise vacuum and temp control, seems like a great way to refine cannabinoids,terps, or even solvents if you need to, very malleable set up in comparison to some fancy wiped film that comes with a manual, fuck all that. be the engineer from the ground up.
a letter to my self i guess....out loud
here when i have some more time i will post my current parts list for a distillation set-up and hopefully get some input and thoughts from you guys.
happy friday
YES
It is even easier than that. You want vacuum as low as you can get it so you don't even need vacuum control. Just a good pump with a super gentle pull and very deep ultimate pressure.
How are you guys greasing ground glass joints (or are you)?
Hose selection? I was going for high temperature silicone hosing with hose clamps.
I've been unable to pull the system too deep. The pump (Alcatel 2021i) pulls down to 15 mTorr or less on its own. I have Polyspring hosing connecting it to a vacuum regulator, and likewise to the cold trap and distribution adapter (which I'll probably remove soon).
I can pull on the regulator down to 450 mTorr, and my glassware only to 22 Torr. This is closer to atmosphere than my tiny beat-to-shit 3cfm pulls vacuum ovens down to.
I also noticed that water gets sucked through two of the three 24/40 joints between distribution adapter and collection flasks.
Glassware is from Xtractor Depot...Summit Research head with Chemglass everywhere else. Up to 285°C and still not at THC. I need a significantly deeper vacuum pull.
Hose selection? I was going for high temperature silicone hosing with hose clamps.
I've been unable to pull the system too deep. The pump (Alcatel 2021i) pulls down to 15 mTorr or less on its own. I have Polyspring hosing connecting it to a vacuum regulator, and likewise to the cold trap and distribution adapter (which I'll probably remove soon).
I can pull on the regulator down to 450 mTorr, and my glassware only to 22 Torr. This is closer to atmosphere than my tiny beat-to-shit 3cfm pulls vacuum ovens down to.
I also noticed that water gets sucked through two of the three 24/40 joints between distribution adapter and collection flasks.
Glassware is from Xtractor Depot...Summit Research head with Chemglass everywhere else. Up to 285°C and still not at THC. I need a significantly deeper vacuum pull.
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thegreenman91
Member
@oldgold Are you working with hydrocarbon extracted or co2 extracted material?
thegreenman91
Member
What do you mean when you say water gets sucked in through the joints.
Running co2 extracted material (high water content) I have seen air leaking through the ground glass joint on the boiling flask.... Is this sort of leak what you mean.
Definitely try a high vacuum grease. Also using teflon tape and hose clamps on ALL vacuum lines may help you out as well.
Lower vacuum is the key but I distill at around 220c at roughly the same vacuum level as you, maybe calibrate your gauge. Maybe i should calibrate mine.
Running co2 extracted material (high water content) I have seen air leaking through the ground glass joint on the boiling flask.... Is this sort of leak what you mean.
Definitely try a high vacuum grease. Also using teflon tape and hose clamps on ALL vacuum lines may help you out as well.
Lower vacuum is the key but I distill at around 220c at roughly the same vacuum level as you, maybe calibrate your gauge. Maybe i should calibrate mine.
I only put grease on my cow and spd head joint and the joints for the receiving flasks.
You dont want it on the mantle, it will melt and get sucked in. Id say not to be to concerned with the deep vacuum. Ive made some awesome stuff with a harbor fright 3cfm vac pump that pulled down to 1400 microns with no regulator and no cold trap. The cold trap will make it so you cant pull a deep vac also. Run a bypass hose around it and just use the cold trap for the shitty stuff at the beginning, after thats done close off the cold trap. I dont use hose clamps on my silicone hoses. Ive used the thin cheap hose that collapses and still made a good batch. Toss some grease on the hose joints too, helps seal and makes it easier to get on. Heres some results from my Cheap Shorth path 1L setup i paid less the 1k for including the vac pump. Granted my Summit Research 2L is 1000x better and faster, and i dont have the fear of it imploding. Heres a couple of my tests.
http://analytical360.com/m/concentrates/527820
http://analytical360.com/m/concentrates/534900
You dont want it on the mantle, it will melt and get sucked in. Id say not to be to concerned with the deep vacuum. Ive made some awesome stuff with a harbor fright 3cfm vac pump that pulled down to 1400 microns with no regulator and no cold trap. The cold trap will make it so you cant pull a deep vac also. Run a bypass hose around it and just use the cold trap for the shitty stuff at the beginning, after thats done close off the cold trap. I dont use hose clamps on my silicone hoses. Ive used the thin cheap hose that collapses and still made a good batch. Toss some grease on the hose joints too, helps seal and makes it easier to get on. Heres some results from my Cheap Shorth path 1L setup i paid less the 1k for including the vac pump. Granted my Summit Research 2L is 1000x better and faster, and i dont have the fear of it imploding. Heres a couple of my tests.
http://analytical360.com/m/concentrates/527820
http://analytical360.com/m/concentrates/534900
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Lol greenman91 one of us really does need a calibration. My temperatures were consistent with my lack of a deep vacuum. As for the water, I put a few drops on the joint between cow and receiving flask, and the droplets slipped right in!
Nice results A6 Grower. I'm gonna get me some vacuum grease, I was just looking for alternative lubricants as well.
Nice results A6 Grower. I'm gonna get me some vacuum grease, I was just looking for alternative lubricants as well.
HashoftheTitans
Member
I had some issues with silicone hoses flattening (too thin of a wall) and diminishing my vacuum. My main body fraction was not coming out until 240-250C I went for a quick-fix while waiting on heavier hoses and grabbed some vinyl ones from home depot and throw them out every 2 uses. My THC fraction has been starting around 215C since switching over.
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