bandonlooper1
Member
hmm guess i shoulda figured that one out. what are the 4" rated at? mine 4" are 171 cfm, i figure yours are the same or more?
hmm guess i shoulda figured that one out. what are the 4" rated at? mine 4" are 171 cfm, i figure yours are the same or more?
Rated 142 CFM for the 4" Can-Fan
Rated 178 CFM for the 4" Can-Fan HO
like we have said earlier though we are allready sucking in the tent sides from neg preasure with a normal 4" Can-Fan exhausting through a can-9000 filter and out the top. It is more powerfull then we ever imagined. We do have a short run from the filter to the fan to the exhaust port though. We would like to see how it can move air through a couple feet of ducting.
I do see now how we are wasting lumens by having a a/c reflector not a/c it (the 6" flanges are open exposing light to the sides)
any ideas on this?
You can get 6 inch end caps on homedepot, lowes... clamp those on with 6 inch hose clamps and your laughing. But you really should be running the air through the hood, if you did that you probably wouldnt need a a/c... the temps inside my tent are like 1-2 degrees higher then the temp in the room.
Make sure you don' get the hard flexible aluminum ducting... loud as HELL, I made that mistake, has since been switched out for vinyl ducting, and im using the softer aluminum flex stuff inside the tent.. it no longer sounds like a jet engine is going in the room
Thanks for the reply Cyber9! Your grow is looking great!
Our a/c (air conditioning) for intake is our central air conditioning system of the house that will always be on.
As for Air cooling the hood we toatlly agree but space is a concern(will get to that) and using the Can-Fan 4" to exhaust through the scrubber and a/c the hood raises the concern of lowering the negative preasure in the room to much?
As for 6" to 4" Flanges or whatever u call them we picked up 2 but the diameter is exactly the same and they are about 5" long so with ducting added to that im pushing to much on the sides of the tent. I need to make a custom and very short 6" to 4" duct reducer but still worried about loosing the negative preasure then.
i ran into the same problem when i first set up my cool tube, from having the 6 to 4 reducers on each side. i now use the 6" ducting connected to the cool tube, its ducted out of the tent, then the reducer, then the fan pulls the air down the hall and out of the room
another idea would be to hang you light like so that the ends are pointing towards the corners, if that is unclear i can draw a pic in paint. i tried this in mine and it fit better, but your dimensions may be different.
Thanks for your response, you saying move the light 45 degrees left or right to allow more space on the ducts.?
Simple things escape some people minds, thanks bud. So the current thoughts between us for upgrades for next flower are getting a Can-fan 4" HO(to replace current exhaust can-fan)
Use the old 4" can fan with a speed control at 50% or so to replace 6" inline fan and run a 4" duct to the Hood. I am going to build a "shorter" custom 6" to 4" reducer for the intake to the Hood. We are thinking of also switching to a 600w HPS bulb then aswell..? ideas?
**Updated Picutres in 12 Hours....THEY ARE LOOKING SWEET**
nice cant wait to see them. my fan speed controler showed up today. tried to plug it in, and it didnt work. urghh maybe doing something wrong, ill mess with it later
We got invited to two July 4th partys so updated pics will be delayed a day or two.