Joe Budden said:
LOL. Common sense to us!
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LOL. Common sense to us!
BonsaiBud
Member
Now, about this FLIR imaging. I assume they can just see right through wood, siding, drywall, frame, and see the 1000 C temp or your arc tube. I have some margin of safety because my whole op is stuffed inside metal cabinets. Add a heavy metal hood and only the tell-tale signature of the arc tube is even more vague in the IR image. One add for a watter-cooled 1k jacket was that the heat signature was "similar to that of the human body". So lets assume that heavy steel sheet, thick copper sheet, or an inch of water is enough to obscure the IR image. Now do super-reflective surfaces such as reflector material: do these mess up the IR image or can they just focus in on the arc tube?
SomeGuy
668, Neighbor of the Beast
BonsaiBud said:
Where do you vent?
Most everything I've read regarding this shows they focus on the signature at the vent. They really can't "see through walls" but they can see that the walls and ceiling/roof and vents themselves have a higher heat signature than everything around them.
Theres a thread here that I cannot find about a couple that was growing and she actually worked for the PD. They (PD) got a tip and flew over their place with FLIR and they posted video of it with the news story of the bust. Their interest was on the vent that was 5 times brighter than anything in the neighborhood.
FrankRizzo
Listen to me jerky
They had some footage of a flir camera being used on that show DEA on spike. There are some shots in the thread here about that show. The chimney of the house was glowing red.
If they want you.........they will get you........legally or not
I've been trying to think of some way you could vent the air into pipes in the ground, but I don't think it would be very cost effective or possible for most people to do.
If they want you.........they will get you........legally or not
I've been trying to think of some way you could vent the air into pipes in the ground, but I don't think it would be very cost effective or possible for most people to do.
I know a lot of people run lights at night.. but remember, they can only use FLIR at night, I believe. Plus, it's more common to use more electricity in the day as opposed to night. I think people should really consider switching their light schedules to the day time.
FrankRizzo
Listen to me jerky
So your lights run when it's even colder outside making things show up even brighter? I'm not saying they should change anything, but you have to understand that the bigger the differences in the surrounding temps the brighter things will look.
I haven't read anything that says they have to use those cameras at night. They are looking for differences in temps in the ir spectrum and that has nothing to do with light. I could be wrong.
Edit-I think I read something about a sewer vent setup somewhere too. Not the best idea for when some worker comes along and there is hot air getting blown into the sewer. And yeah, a sewer back up would suck.
I got thinking about the whole thing after reading about a/c systems that run the coolant pipes through the ground. Imagine if you could some how rig a huge grid of pvc pipes or something around your house about ten feet underground. Enough space so that by the time the air goes through the whole thing it's cooled back down to room temps. It could be sweet, but I don't know if it could be pulled off.
I haven't read anything that says they have to use those cameras at night. They are looking for differences in temps in the ir spectrum and that has nothing to do with light. I could be wrong.
Edit-I think I read something about a sewer vent setup somewhere too. Not the best idea for when some worker comes along and there is hot air getting blown into the sewer. And yeah, a sewer back up would suck.
I got thinking about the whole thing after reading about a/c systems that run the coolant pipes through the ground. Imagine if you could some how rig a huge grid of pvc pipes or something around your house about ten feet underground. Enough space so that by the time the air goes through the whole thing it's cooled back down to room temps. It could be sweet, but I don't know if it could be pulled off.
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G33k Speak
Member
FrankRizzo said:
Umm- so the chimney being hot is a reason to issue a warrant?? (could be seasonally dependant I suppose, but still).
That's about it in a nutshell.
I mean where do you want to stop?? the could drill a tiny hole in your wall and use a small fiber optic camera and do a snoop and poop.
I think the FLIR isn't that big a deal unless you're running a huge op, and you didn't insulate well.
If they're running FLIR on you- they already know about you.
I also hear that some people that vent to the attic will melt the snow on their roof, while all the neighbors 6 inches of snow on their roofs...
JohnnyToke
Member
in the summer, everything is warm / hot so it doesnt matter where you vent too as long as its odor free. just run your lights during the daylight hours if your worried about heat signatures.
in the winter, just vent thru your chimney where it would be perfectly normal for a heat signature.
or as others have suggested, run an enclosed grow with a/c.
JT
in the winter, just vent thru your chimney where it would be perfectly normal for a heat signature.
or as others have suggested, run an enclosed grow with a/c.
JT
winter time:
vent into your house...
saves on heating costs...
Summer time:
make sure your vent is created correctly...
-must insulate between metal vent and house material.
- make sure the hot air expelling will not come into contact with anything such as branches far away or other parts of your house, etc...
- make a double layered metal vent thing... have some cooling system run between the layers to make the entire thing ambient temp.
i could see spending maybe 1-2grand on making some "pot friendly" exhaust that would look like say a chimmney, but FLIR shows it as whatever temp you want it to be.
some copper tubing behind the outside facing metal, sprayed with some type of insulating foam. then the inside material could be made from whatever.
run some cold water through tubing, and we have a winner
compensate for condensation on either side.
time to quit hitting this shit.
vent into your house...
saves on heating costs...
Summer time:
make sure your vent is created correctly...
-must insulate between metal vent and house material.
- make sure the hot air expelling will not come into contact with anything such as branches far away or other parts of your house, etc...
- make a double layered metal vent thing... have some cooling system run between the layers to make the entire thing ambient temp.
i could see spending maybe 1-2grand on making some "pot friendly" exhaust that would look like say a chimmney, but FLIR shows it as whatever temp you want it to be.
some copper tubing behind the outside facing metal, sprayed with some type of insulating foam. then the inside material could be made from whatever.
run some cold water through tubing, and we have a winner
compensate for condensation on either side.
time to quit hitting this shit.
BonsaiBud
Member
Let me chime in:
Everyone seems to be on the right track. Disposing of 8kwatts via a new mini-split AC unit may not be the most cost/energy efficient; but it will look like everybody else. I still say you run lights at night to save on energy and just mask the hell out of it. "smoking dragon" is the thing to avoid. I just talked to a friend who had a kiln. He said it ran off of 240 and "ripped the asshole out of" his electric bill. So make up some alibis and pay the electric bill and carry on. No capitalist business will refuse your money. No capitalistic business will launch an investigation after fair, timely, cash payment of services. Just grow that 8K and use a mini-split. No body will care. Lots of people pay $300-$500 in summer electric bills; same for winter. Just replace inc. bulbs, wash in cold water, and forgo big, hot baths in favor of quick showers.
Everyone seems to be on the right track. Disposing of 8kwatts via a new mini-split AC unit may not be the most cost/energy efficient; but it will look like everybody else. I still say you run lights at night to save on energy and just mask the hell out of it. "smoking dragon" is the thing to avoid. I just talked to a friend who had a kiln. He said it ran off of 240 and "ripped the asshole out of" his electric bill. So make up some alibis and pay the electric bill and carry on. No capitalist business will refuse your money. No capitalistic business will launch an investigation after fair, timely, cash payment of services. Just grow that 8K and use a mini-split. No body will care. Lots of people pay $300-$500 in summer electric bills; same for winter. Just replace inc. bulbs, wash in cold water, and forgo big, hot baths in favor of quick showers.
BonsaiBud
Member
If it is winter and there is snow everywhere then you should be able to heat your home entirely with waste heat from the lights. As long as they are all air-cooled and on a separate air-circuit, then some ducts and damper valves should be all you need to "shift into HID heat". Split the grow room for continuous heat: make a "day grow room" up to be about 30% of your grow wattage and your "night grow room" about 70% wattage. This should allow any moderate size home to go "all electric" (heh heh heh 
). If your whole home is all warm and comfy and you still have too much heat when there is snow outside then get either a larger house or a more poorly-insulated house. Granted, both these options would just hinder a large, indoor summer grow.
). If your whole home is all warm and comfy and you still have too much heat when there is snow outside then get either a larger house or a more poorly-insulated house. Granted, both these options would just hinder a large, indoor summer grow.
S
stoned teacher
I used to vent down the sewer pipe..You can use a backflow damper to prevent air or waste backflow in case of fan failure (fan was on all the time).
http://www.famcomfg.com/Dampers.htm
I was going to switch because I wanted a larger exhaust, and then learned that my backflow pipe not only goes down to the sewer, but to the top of my house....ending in a pipe that had some early snow meltage. I switched that QUICK
http://www.famcomfg.com/Dampers.htm
I was going to switch because I wanted a larger exhaust, and then learned that my backflow pipe not only goes down to the sewer, but to the top of my house....ending in a pipe that had some early snow meltage. I switched that QUICK
J
Joe Budden
Good to see that this thread that I created 7 months ago is still going and has lots of good information 
Check out my grow at my sig guys.
Later
JB
Check out my grow at my sig guys.Later
JB
J
Jack Crevalle
