Diary Run #6 Haze NL 87 under Mars 4800e - with control!

[flylowgethigh]

Up-potted the 4 NLH into 10 gallon bags. The roots in the plastic pots were starting to wrap, which was indicated by the dripline extending beyond the pot edges. All the roots looked good to me.

Made manual watering SIP beds out of a tub, a piece of coiled up drain pipe, a water bottle with the top cut off and holes cut in the bottom, and perlite to cover the pipe a couple inches. The pipe holds water and supports the weight. That is the trick Thailer told me that made the light come on with a SIP. Be sure to have a full bag on the bed before you wet it. I top water for a week or so because the roots need to get into the bag soil before they can slurp up the water and goodies.




The water is poured onto the perlite, and the water-level observed in the plastic bottle. This bed can hold the plant while I am away for a couple days. I don't like this system near as much as the other one with the reservoir and the control box.

So the bushy B's are in back in hopes they are females, tall T's in front. SKOHLP is still tagging along. There is a gallon of BAS 'Top Dress' on top, with BAS 12 variety clover sown in. That 'Top Dress'is thick stuff, sprouts hate it, but the clover seems to be OK. It seems to have a lot of EWC in it.

Let's see some sex signs...

 

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Here's a side shot of the bunch to show relative height. A bushy and a tall pheno, two of each. SKOHLP is being SKOHLP, and wants a bigger bag also.

 

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It occurs to me that if I had one big tub in there instead of 4, my life would be a whole lot easier and better. It only has to be 10" high, with the support tubes laid out in rows. As long as those tubes stayed put, 5 of the 10 gallon bags could be sat on the super-size wick. Make the sight tube big enough to drop a small water pump in and the water could all be pumped out for maintenance. I could perhaps tie it in with the control box in the other tent. Fiberglass would be a good material if it was smooth inside like a shower.

The real motivation: And SKOHLP could have a bag of it's own in the middle.

 

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A little better set-up. This will last until I start removing males. Maybe the small container will keep SKOHLP in check. They are at 350 umoles now.

 

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Are the Bushy B's females? Are the tall T's males? Inquiring minds need to now!

Bushy B1

Tall T2

The tag-along SKOHLP is running with the pack...



...and has shown an 11 point leaf already:

 

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Things are chuggling long...



The bushy B's...

 

[Mars Hydro Led]

They look very healthy. will you add a trellis for them?

 

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These have not been sexed yet. Once a trellis is in, you are locked-in, so I want to wait so I know who's who in there first. I imagine only one or two plants will stay in there, and then a net will probably be needed to control the height/canopy. Based on feedback, I have a hunch the two bushy B plants are females. Those T's sure look good though. Added cal-mag overcame the chlorosis, or something did, but it is not a problem any longer.

I know I won't be able to resist chucking a little pollen at the girls. Any males will have to go outside though.

SKOHLP will be going somewhere else too. Nice looking plant though. Notice how the leaves have changed after the roots got into better soil than what was in the dixie cup. When this one goes outside it will get put into a bag of goodness.

Things are chugging long...

 

[MD84]

Looking good. I'm having a hard time with my first led run. Can i ask what your temps are and what you have your lights set at? I know you mention umoles but at this point it means nothing to me lol.

atb

 

[flylowgethigh]

Umoles are the unit of light intensity as measured by a PAR meter. The one I have cost $160, Photobio by Phantom. You can look at the website for the light you have and see a PAR chart for the areas below the light. The center gets the most light, edges less. The chart is for this light is here somewhere.

https://www.mars-hydro.com › fc-e4800-commercial-led-grow-light

Right now, because of the light distribution, SKOHLP is getting 500 umoles at the top, while the others are around 450. Little bushy B2 even less, because it is further away. That would be the best plant to have in the center right now.

The height of the light above the plants determines how much intensity they get. I don't like to get closer than 18", until the tops get so high that I can't raise the light any higher. The higher the light away from the plant, the more intensity (heat) is needed to get the umoles. I set the light for stages of growth cause it is a real hassle to adjust the height in a 4 x 4. I mostly adjust the intensity at the plant top with the power. This light I am running was provided by Mars Hydro so I could demonstrate the controllability function they now have. It is working flawlessly as advertised. I have the driver mounted remotely and controlled by my controller.

I am probably the only guy who does this, but I ramp up the PAR intensity as the plant develops roots. Starting with a T5 in the nursery which is maybe 100-150, and ramping up as the plant grows. In full flower with my ambient CO2 of around 500, I max out the power setting at around 800 umoles at the tops, maybe a tad higher. Temps are the main driver. VPD control for me is best done by keeping the light power within the system's ability to control VPD. I can control power in 1% increments. A 3% change is big, and can change the temps 2*F.

Cal-mag is essential. I use some stuff that also has Iron. I add a capful to each 3 gallons of tap water (filtered with carbon). As can be seen with SKOHLP, my starting soil was way hot, and the leaves had bad chlorosis. It may also be a hotter light spectrum wise (more red). I changed the soil by up-potting and they are happier. I also double the cal-mag under this light, so far.

I have 2 sensors on the tent in the pocket at top height. I try to keep the temp at that height at 75-76*F, and the humidity in VPD range for the plant life cycle. This was previously ignored at night, and my high humidity made the plant grow great bush, but not grow frost. This environment effort is new, and I am still working on making the environment automatic through the day/night cycle. It is looking like 2 dehueys, and 2 window bangers (on timers) to get close. Do what ya gotta do for the VPD in the tent at plant height. Forced filtered air is far superior to the vents on the bottom of the tents.



Post up pics of your grow. This place is full of experts. I am NOT one of them.

 

[MD84]

ok, thanks for the response. I thought your temps would be a little higher tbh. Mine aren't far off yet im experiencing very slow growth and some yellowing on one or two ladies. Maybe it's my humidity. I have my light set to 50% at about 20 inches away right now. I've just put the second light on also to try and increase temps a little. but the second/third lights sit as high as the tent goes and will stay there as it's such a pain to raise and lower these lights. I'll keep an eye on your grow. ATB

 

[flylowgethigh]

I had to leave the babies alone a few daze in sub-optimal VPD.

The two Bushy B's are boys. Each an 11 leafer. B2 is a squat little bush, but B1 is pretty good looking and might make a good stud.

B1 on the left, B2 on the right

B1 ballz

B2 ballz

I tried to get B2 a spot with the other two I gave away, but no-go. So it looks like he will get destroyed I suppose. B1 is a stout looking plant. It will be the one I get a little pollen from, unless the other guy has a better looking male.

 

[flylowgethigh]

So there are three in there now. The light is at 500 umoles, still 12/12. These are all 11 leafers.

T1 on the left, T2 on the right, SKOHLP in front.

T2

T2

T1

T1

 

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SKOHLP is looking pretty good I think. Still in the 1 gal pot for now.

SKOHLP

SKOHLP

 

[flylowgethigh]

This would be a good time for someone who knows something about the structure and stretch of these NL Haze to come in with some advise.

How long will these need to flower?

Will B2 ever grow? Is it worth trying to keep the pollen?

What should I do with B1 and the pollen besides knock up a few lower buds on T1 and T2 (and maybe SKOHLP)? I suppose try to save it. I just wadded up a bunch of SKOHLP tops, stuffed them in a bag, and put them in a freezer. Better get better at pollen.

How bad will the jungle be when I keep both T1 and T2 in the ten gallon bags?

Do I need to reduce the daylight to reduce the jungle growth?

Just in case, I reduced the daylight from 11:45 to 11:00 today.

And as for the tag-along...

Will keeping SKOHLP in a 1 gallon pot keep her from taking-up the whole tent like her mom did?

She will be 6 of 14+ weeks in a 1 gallon pot in a month. I should have an empty tent available then, that I can finish her in when run 5 is done. Lets hope the two NLH don't overtake the tent in the meanwhile.

Here they are (T1 left, T2 right, SKOHLP front):

 

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T1:


T2:

And outside waiting for the girls to get a little older is B1:

 

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I was looking for info on how these plants might grow out. I have run Sensi NL5 haze, which is just another hybrid. We'll see how these two girls do, but in the meanwhile let's read about the legends out there... and yeah, I will knock up these girls for ICMag if JohnnyChicago says it's OK.

Northern Lights Haze by Mount Burnin

The inhale of Northern Lights Haze by Mount Burnin bursts with blueberry notes that evolve in a complex sweet fruit punch profile.

zerofux.org

 

[flylowgethigh]

No doubt the two T's are females. The twat twins. Meanwhile SKOHLP is taking it's sweet time showing sex, like a 16+ week sativa will do. This is week 2 of flip. Basking under about 550 umoles of flower-power.

 

[flylowgethigh]

So I have a question. If I hit a SKOHLP flower with some of the left-over OHLP pollen, and it works, does that increase the chance of bringing out more of the Love Potion effect? I think that strain has a cool ring to it. What would SKOHLP x OHLP be called? I called it SKOHLP because the letters are getting a little long (Sam Skunkman server fund beans).

Love Potion aka Love Potion #1 Weed Strain Information | Leafly

Love Potion #1 is a 70% sativa strain bred by Reeferman Seeds. G13 was crossed with a Santa Marta Colombian Gold, and crossed with the Colombian Gold again to achieve this skunky, lemon-flavored sativa hybrid....

www.leafly.com

 

[ReikoX]

Tagging along for the rest of this grow.