Round ducting versus Square/rectangular ducting?

[yamaha_1fan]

The design is 2 rows of tables. 4 tables per row. 3 lights per table total of 24 lights

I plan on running a 16" duct down the middle, then Ting off to each side to feed the lights, then back to a 12" duct down each side. Each 12" duct would be powered by a 12" fan.

I need to get the ducting ASAP as I have some labor helping out. I am thinking it may be easier to build ducts out of duct board and the guys are experienced with that.

16" ducting should have a surface area of 200"

12" ducting should have a surface area of 113"

I know the 16" doesnt exactly double the surface area but it comes close, so I thought the 16" would be enough to feed the lights and two 12" exit ducts

Will it be OK to use duct board? I can make the duct board larger to compensate for any loss? Or is the smooth round ridgid the best option here?


Heres a diagram of the plan

 

[SevenSeeds]

Hello Yamaha! my helpful friend I went to homedepot to get some organic soil and looked around and they had none, I was thinking to myself what else I needed looked at some floros and left...totaly forgot the fucking book! Looks like I'm going back soon, anyways about your question personally I can't really answer but I would go with the circle rigid ducting because I always use it, its cheap and easy to crush and throw out!.... anyways take care buddy see you around~

 

[Maddlights]

Hey I'm no HVAC guy but I believe that rectangular ducting needs to be larger in size due to less efficent air flow. This may impact the ability to create the push or pull you are looking for. Now if head room is an issue the of course use use rectangular ducting for a flater wider profile.

 

[BlindDate]

Hey I'm no HVAC guy but I believe that rectangular ducting needs to be larger in size due to less efficent air flow. This may impact the ability to create the push or pull you are looking for. Now if head room is an issue the of course use use rectangular ducting for a flater wider profile.

Congrats, one of the dumbest things I've ever seen written.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

There is no discernible difference in flow between round and rectangular ducting made from the same material. They both carry the same friction factor.

A 12" rectangular duct has more area than a 12" pipe.
12" sq = 144 sq in.
12" rnd = 113 sq in.

 

[herbal essences]

Congrats, one of the dumbest things I've ever seen written.

Congrats, one of the most ignorant things Ive ever seen written, ever heard the expression, if you don't have anything good to say don't say it at all?

 

[yamaha_1fan]

I must have been quoted the wrong price on the phone because when I actually ordered the material, it came out to much less than I had figured. I think I was quoted by the foot, and may have been charged by the piece instead. Or my math was wrong.

I got all round duct

BTW the HVAC distributor was much cheaper than home depot (on the items that HD did carry, like the 6" takeoffs. they didnt have the 12 or 16" duct), so if anyone ever needs a bunch of materials, it may be worth a trip to the HVAC guys

 

[smurfin'herb]

Yamaha, i dont know how to do diagrams on the computer, so ill say this best i can.
For even more efficient hood cooling, you could turn your tables lengthwise (opposite of your picture) place your hoods over the tables so that the cooling port holes are perpendicular to the width of the tables they are hanging over. Then incorporate your current cooling idea. Instead of cooling 3 600's with one duct run each light has its own. This way each light can be individually cooled cutting down on a/c costs.

I would think you should def have 2 12" fans pulling and one 16" fan pushing, and may possibly end up needing a "booster fan" halfway down the 16" main duct run. Also keep in mind that when using a cooling design like that, duct dampers are going to need to be set up to distribute the cooling load evenly amongst each light/light chain. Air takes the path of least resitance.

 

[yamaha_1fan]

Smurf, its going to go like my plan. too late to change now.


Anyone ever see 16" duct? Shit, its huge. I tried bringing in an elbow into the room through the framing and I couldnt even get in between the studs. Makes sense with studs every 16" on center but it just really brings it into scale how big it is.

I have a 3 TON and maybe a 4 ton for 2 rooms so I should be able to keep them cool, hopefully

 

[Maddlights]

Sorry Folks I did NOT write this comment! I left my laptop open to the thread and my Buddy thought it would be funny to write something without my knowing it. Sorry again! I love him but his humor has been frozen in Jr. High for the last 40years. I did not know he had done this till today. So I read him the riot act - Bad Hippie no more drugs! Once again I'm sorry to clutter this interesting thread.

 

[smurfin'herb]

bigger the better. How do u plan to cool both rooms with one a/c? just throw a 5 ton a/c up on the roof and run into each room. Youd have to get some timed dampers and corresponding thermostats to do it tho. LMAO A/C UP ON THE ROOF!! No really tho, u have two rooms and 24kw in each room for a total of 48kw..? I smell a excel air system. Youd need like a 3-4 ton for each room depending on how much buffering area there is, and what ur temps are like at night in the summer. If ur out in norcal, u can really skimp on a/c, and just hook intake/outtake to a thermostat controller. People reccomend 2,000btu's of cooling for every air cooled 600 right? or is that for air cooled 1000's..?

 

[yamaha_1fan]

The specs call for a 5 ton unit in each room. But I cant get them to put them in. Worse case is in summer we have to shut off some lights or upgrade the A/C. we have the people to connect the A/C so it shouldnt be a problem.

The two rooms will run CO2 on a flip flop schedule. If I use 1 A/C for both rooms, I will be pumping CO2 into both rooms needlessly. While the plants in dark dont need/use CO2, I will still be filling the room. Also trying to keep the rooms different temps at different times using one A/C will be a chore.

I will use the 3 ton for one room, the existing unit for the other room

Each room is 14,400 watts

 

[Guest]

Each room is 14,400 watts

yamaha,

It will be difficult to state facts about an op like this. The only piece of advice for you is to be careful flip flopping on such a large scale without going all out on set up. Worse case scenario should be, "how do I trim all these buds!" rather than "maybe have to shut off a light or two"

Get everything smooth as silk, and problems down the road will be minimal. Going into it already expecting problems without taking action to fix them is not recommended, especially when flip flopping 14kw. It seems possible with the a/c set up now, but could also spell disaster if all the kinks aren't worked out beforehand. Things always arise, so its best to handle anything before if possible. You already know this, I am sure of.

The only thing I notice is your carbon filter. One carbon filter per room? Attached to (3) 12 in fans? That carbon filter is rated at 1260 cfm, and just one 12' fan (depending on model) can easily be anywhere between 1000 and 1700 cfm. Be cautious not to overflow your carbon filter, as it will reduce its ability to properly scrub the yummy dank smell. Perhaps you have already taken this into consideration, if so disregard this statement.

I wish you the best, check your PM

this is totally "reaper esque" anybody remember reaper and his side by side 20kw flowering rooms?

 

[yamaha_1fan]

rooms are sealed and the filters are recycling the room air