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Rotating plant around verticle cooltubes..
- Thread starter Mister Postman
- Start date
DeebeeAhhSee
Member
LOL airy buds if you turn by hand? Yah ok.
I just finished may last stadium... and nothing in the grow was airy... and yes they were turned by hand. Airy buds come from high temps or something else, possibly genetics. I also rotated plants in flat grows and got the same results.
Spinnin gplants is worth the trouble if you want you end item to have bag appeal, if its just for personal use then maybe not. If you don't turn all nugs grow on one side of the plant and may not fill in the area between nodes, possibly lessening overall weight due to stem removal and such.
I just finished may last stadium... and nothing in the grow was airy... and yes they were turned by hand. Airy buds come from high temps or something else, possibly genetics. I also rotated plants in flat grows and got the same results.
Spinnin gplants is worth the trouble if you want you end item to have bag appeal, if its just for personal use then maybe not. If you don't turn all nugs grow on one side of the plant and may not fill in the area between nodes, possibly lessening overall weight due to stem removal and such.
Not turning the plants makes them stretch to where the light is. The plant will form it's own canopy with no trouble at all. A scrog does the same thing only horizontally.
They will tend to find their own little space. You start turning them, and they cannot establish on their own. If you do not turn, and the plant grows into a nice vertical canopy, then all the main buds will be getting the light all the time. If you start turning them, the main buds will only see light part of the time, and must wait until you turn them again to see more light.
Folks need to learn to train the plants and they will take care of themselves, rather than be a slave to it's needs. A person with good training skills will never worry about turning pots.
I;m sorry deebeeahsee, but I have never seen what you are describing. I guarantee you that my non turned plants do not have buds that don't fully form, nor is there any bag appeal lost. Surely you are just speculating about that.
They will tend to find their own little space. You start turning them, and they cannot establish on their own. If you do not turn, and the plant grows into a nice vertical canopy, then all the main buds will be getting the light all the time. If you start turning them, the main buds will only see light part of the time, and must wait until you turn them again to see more light.
Folks need to learn to train the plants and they will take care of themselves, rather than be a slave to it's needs. A person with good training skills will never worry about turning pots.
I;m sorry deebeeahsee, but I have never seen what you are describing. I guarantee you that my non turned plants do not have buds that don't fully form, nor is there any bag appeal lost. Surely you are just speculating about that.
This is one of the vertical scrogs I did last year. I didn't have to do anything but make sure the branches went into a hole. Most did that on their own.
The back side of the scrog is barren, just like a horz scrog would be.
The back side of the scrog is barren, just like a horz scrog would be.
Sorry if I wasn't 100% clear with my plans description.. The idea was as Kodiak has shown in the updated diagram.. Each plant around the light would spin freely of each other 360degrees.
In a sense similar to turning the plants a 1/4 turn 4 times during lights on, though I would think that the slow and steady rotation would make for a more symmetrical growth pattern, and more of an even light distribution throughout the plants, and throughout the whole lights on period... If you notice as the dark period gets closer the leaves change position, and droop a bit sometimes even a couple hours before the light actually turns off... At that time I'd venture a guess that the plants are not using the light the same as they were in the beginning-middle of the day.. I'm thinkingg like with a vert scrog setup, the buds/yields would work themselves out. The largest forming on the outer parts of the plants closer to the light as it rotates etc. A 600watt hps is gonna fill out buds no matter what. I dont believe any one part would be away from the light long enough to result in airy buds, but who knows... I'm curious what becomes of that small unit I linked too.. Maybe that company had the right idea with the smaller plants. I could see it being more beneficial with smaller sog type plants, rather then the bushes I was thinking about..
That's where I fall short Hoosierdaddy.... I'm gonna have to consult with a friend locally about the electrical aspects. No doubt I could put a fan motor on a variable speed control as I do now for my exhaust, but I'm not key on the ins and outs of what's going on electrically, and the safest way of hooking up for this application.. I have a friend who's a mechanical genius basically, so I'm hoping I could tap him for some info, and help with this. I dig the vert scrog by the way.. Your certainly making good use of the light with that tech..
This thread was mostly for opinions, and ideas. Put it out there so to speak... When it comes down to it I'm to busy with work and well my garden LOL.. Rarely get time for experiments and tinkering these days, though my mind certainly finds the time
In a sense similar to turning the plants a 1/4 turn 4 times during lights on, though I would think that the slow and steady rotation would make for a more symmetrical growth pattern, and more of an even light distribution throughout the plants, and throughout the whole lights on period... If you notice as the dark period gets closer the leaves change position, and droop a bit sometimes even a couple hours before the light actually turns off... At that time I'd venture a guess that the plants are not using the light the same as they were in the beginning-middle of the day.. I'm thinkingg like with a vert scrog setup, the buds/yields would work themselves out. The largest forming on the outer parts of the plants closer to the light as it rotates etc. A 600watt hps is gonna fill out buds no matter what. I dont believe any one part would be away from the light long enough to result in airy buds, but who knows... I'm curious what becomes of that small unit I linked too.. Maybe that company had the right idea with the smaller plants. I could see it being more beneficial with smaller sog type plants, rather then the bushes I was thinking about..
That's where I fall short Hoosierdaddy.... I'm gonna have to consult with a friend locally about the electrical aspects. No doubt I could put a fan motor on a variable speed control as I do now for my exhaust, but I'm not key on the ins and outs of what's going on electrically, and the safest way of hooking up for this application.. I have a friend who's a mechanical genius basically, so I'm hoping I could tap him for some info, and help with this. I dig the vert scrog by the way.. Your certainly making good use of the light with that tech..
This thread was mostly for opinions, and ideas. Put it out there so to speak... When it comes down to it I'm to busy with work and well my garden LOL.. Rarely get time for experiments and tinkering these days, though my mind certainly finds the time
I'm sure you could find some old record players they have speed controls on them and they already have flat surfaces on them too...
Medical
Member
I understand what you are trying to accomplish. I have never turned my plants, so have no opinion as to whether it makes a difference or not.
That said I was thinking rather than using a motor for each plant why not have a larger DC motor mounted in the center, right under the cool tube. Then use fan/drive belts out to a pulley which each plant platform is mounted on. This would allow you to get a reducing gear box to slow down the speed if needed.
A gear box reduction in speed is no more difficult and is ALOT safer than using a dimmer switch!
That said I was thinking rather than using a motor for each plant why not have a larger DC motor mounted in the center, right under the cool tube. Then use fan/drive belts out to a pulley which each plant platform is mounted on. This would allow you to get a reducing gear box to slow down the speed if needed.
A gear box reduction in speed is no more difficult and is ALOT safer than using a dimmer switch!
TheBudFather
Active member
i think you will have plants falling over n stuff when you are not around..(less moving parts the better i recon) the arms of the plants are just going to be reaching out holding things n eventually throwing themselves about.. maby breaking arms...
i have a vertical system... and there is no need to turn the plants as my lights come on in diffrent sequences for a few hours at a time... 4x600w vert with 320 plantsites... this is the best way to grow using vertical cooltubes.
im not sure how many of these revolving platforms your going to use... but it would be impossible almost to get enything like 320 plantsites revolving... you might aswell take good advantage of the new grow light space youve produced.....
i have a vertical system... and there is no need to turn the plants as my lights come on in diffrent sequences for a few hours at a time... 4x600w vert with 320 plantsites... this is the best way to grow using vertical cooltubes.
im not sure how many of these revolving platforms your going to use... but it would be impossible almost to get enything like 320 plantsites revolving... you might aswell take good advantage of the new grow light space youve produced.....
Tagged
I have been growing vertical for years and I can say with certainty plants that are turned will produce smaller buds and more pop corn style. Plants left in the same position, just moved away from the heat of the bulb when needed will form cola's that are huge and yield will be much larger. This is rom years of growing, Just my two cents.
TGT
TGT
pineappaloupe
Active member
This is an interesting idea. I think the results depend on many unknowns. Plant move to find light, would the be wasting energy trying to adjust to light that is constantly moving? There is probably a prime ratio of surface are of buds, lumens, plants size (root size).
I dunno. My initial reaction is: simple is better. Proper training, pruning, vegging, would probably be much more effective in increasing yield. More bud sites does not always mean more yield, poorly located bud sites might never bear much, and are thus wasting energy.
There are some vertical growers in here hittin 1g/w and that is probably on the low end of the scale.
I wonder if not rotating the plants a full 360, and just 10-20 degrees would be a better option.
I dunno. My initial reaction is: simple is better. Proper training, pruning, vegging, would probably be much more effective in increasing yield. More bud sites does not always mean more yield, poorly located bud sites might never bear much, and are thus wasting energy.
There are some vertical growers in here hittin 1g/w and that is probably on the low end of the scale.
I wonder if not rotating the plants a full 360, and just 10-20 degrees would be a better option.
oregon bob
Member
My set-up has most of the plants in a recirc set-up such that they are stationary & can't be turned. They grow just fine... even with 1/2 the plant not exposed to the light. Yes training/trimming early on to configure.
The bottom plants (on the ground) get hand watered, d2w. I rotate these every other day & they seem happier for the effort. The ones that don't rotate are clearly a lighter green color & a little less developed vs the outside, light-facing parts of the cola. Seems to balance it out on the floor pots. I just can't really see why rotating the plants as such would lessen the overall yield, & certainly not cause it to stretch...? TGT, can you give me more on what you've noticed? Thanks!
The scrog post earlier is what I've recommended for patients wanting to grow fewer, but larger plants. I essentially think of it as removing the belly of the plant by training to the screen... comes out closer to flat. I recommended spinning these every other day, but if trained early on, can get all the nugs on one side, just as other poster stated... sorry brother, can't recall name & in quick reply...
We need that forum up & running! Best to all.
The bottom plants (on the ground) get hand watered, d2w. I rotate these every other day & they seem happier for the effort. The ones that don't rotate are clearly a lighter green color & a little less developed vs the outside, light-facing parts of the cola. Seems to balance it out on the floor pots. I just can't really see why rotating the plants as such would lessen the overall yield, & certainly not cause it to stretch...? TGT, can you give me more on what you've noticed? Thanks!
The scrog post earlier is what I've recommended for patients wanting to grow fewer, but larger plants. I essentially think of it as removing the belly of the plant by training to the screen... comes out closer to flat. I recommended spinning these every other day, but if trained early on, can get all the nugs on one side, just as other poster stated... sorry brother, can't recall name & in quick reply...
We need that forum up & running! Best to all.
keep in mind that when a plant changes position the hormones responsible for flower growth must redistribute, this takes time, time that would be better spent building bigger buds. instead of rotting the plant just make sure all the bud sites are exposed to light. This may mean trimming of using a cage for a v-scrog.
A day late, and a dollar short on my gimmick www.equalsun.com They seem to be charging an arm&leg for it too..
