rootbound 3 weeks into bloom

[Mr Roboto]

Shit I'm going through the same thing as you , I threw an og into a 2 gallon smart pot to fill in some space and it is seriously rootbound which is affecting my yield. once you get that bitch to drain you need to treat itmore like coco than soil by lighter feedings practically everyday

 

[RonSmooth]

Shit I'm going through the same thing as you , I threw an og into a 2 gallon smart pot to fill in some space and it is seriously rootbound which is affecting my yield. once you get that bitch to drain you need to treat itmore like coco than soil by lighter feedings practically everyday

Can a plant really get root bound in a smart pot? Doesnt the pot prevent spin out by allowing the roots to poke through the fabric and "air-prune?"

You could just leave the plant in the pot and drop the whole thing into a larger smart pot with fresh media . The roots would just grow through the old pot.

 

[Mr Roboto]

Can a plant really get root bound in a smart pot? Doesnt the pot prevent spin out by allowing the roots to poke through the fabric and "air-prune?"

You could just leave the plant in the pot and drop the whole thing into a larger smart pot with fresh media . The roots would just grow through the old pot.

smart pots can only do so much....the roots just air prunes on the very bottom and transplanting is not a option because I have a week left until harvest.

 

[Mr Roboto]

plus dropping a smart pot into a bigger pot will seriously increase the development of root rot

 

[RonSmooth]

smart pots can only do so much....the roots just air prunes on the very bottom and transplanting is not a option because I have a week left until harvest.

If you had fresh media on the sides and bottom, the roots would grow into that. I get roots poking out the bottom and sides not just the bottom. You may notice more on the bottom because that is where water usually concentrates.

I don't see how root rot would be an issue with fabric pots.

wouldn't be worth it so late in flowering but it is a simple way to give the roots more room without having to disturb them.

 

[trailblazer2]

update

update

We let plants dry out, then gave 1 gal water each... no runoff. Gave more water and finally got runoff. Measured pH and was very acid! Gave plants flush until pH was reasonable. This seemed to help. Waiting for soil to dry and going to flush again then add nutrients. I suspect the peat moss broke down and combined with no runoff caused acidic issies. Also, the cold temps are causing nutrient lockout... double trouble. We noticed an odd smell before flush... the buds, not the soil, but smell is going away now. I hope they are ok, but buds will not be as potent.

 

[stihgnobevoli]

i'm sorry... not to : but i still don't know what you mean when you say you don't get runoff. where does the water go? do you have a set amount of water you put into a plant like 1 cup and then you didn't get runoff?? i mean if you add water to a pot of soil with holes in the bottom... the water will eventually drip from the holes in the bottom. i mean the most tangled mess of whatever you can think of... even rocks...will eventually drip water when it finishes passing through to the other side.

... so you know...that's why i keep asking you what you mean... by you don't get runoff. that's almost impossible unless your pots don't have holes in them.

 

[Mate Dave]

i'm sorry... not to : but i still don't know what you mean when you say you don't get runoff. where does the water go? do you have a set amount of water you put into a plant like 1 cup and then you didn't get runoff?? i mean if you add water to a pot of soil with holes in the bottom... the water will eventually drip from the holes in the bottom. i mean the most tangled mess of whatever you can think of... even rocks...will eventually drip water when it finishes passing through to the other side.

... so you know...that's why i keep asking you what you mean... by you don't get runoff. that's almost impossible unless your pots don't have holes in them.

Yes and if there isn't holes in the pots it just pisses over the top.

 

[AlterEgo860]

have tested it before.. tossed a bitch that was in a beer cup 2 feet tall. into flower. already root bound.. all I did.. was squeeze the pot to loosen up some of the soil and roots. and it greened up a lot and did fine.. did it with a few plants that were in 5 gallon pots and same results.. don't get me rong. im sure if I would have transplanted before flower like atleast a week before flower. I could have gotten better yield.. but 3 weeks in.. you mite end up stressin them an causing hermis.. or even stunting there growth..

 

[trailblazer2]

It actually took almost 2 gallons of water each to get runoff...yes, the pots have drain holes. These bitches are just very thirsty! We did a long veg and plants are very large. Have done another flush and all is welll. Plants look great and smell wonderful.

 

[stihgnobevoli]

so to be clear...there is runoff, you just didn't put in enough water like i had been asking all along and getting rude replies.

glad you finally got it sorted out.

 

[The OrigF/clred]

Root Rot and being root bound are 2 different things, but can occur together. On the root rot, stay with the peroxide for a couple of weeks, then inoculate with Great White or similar, or better, with a properly brewed EWC ACT.

For the plants that are root bound, many nurserymen would remove the plant from the container. If it's root bound, the root ball should stay together well. Mash around on the outside and bottom of the container, gently work the rootball out. With a sharp knife or heavy duty scissors, cut verticle slits in the root ball 2 inches apart, 1/2 inch into the root ball, bottom to top. Then cut 1/2 to 1 inch off the bottom. Use as much fresh medium as will fit on the bottom. this will stop circling and cause the roots to branch at the cuts and back up the root. Like topping above ground. I have, a few times, halved the rootball 1/3 of the way up the bottom. No ill effects. Don't try this unless the rootball is really solid, or if you're at home. Good luck. -granger

Granger2 - curious to ask you, since you seem to have some experience with H2O2 application. My bud hit the plant in the 2.5 gal pot and a couple of the others that had been transplanted into 5 gal buckets with the H202 (5ml per gallon). All plants were ready for watering, 5 gal buckets got 1 gallon of H2O2 treated water, the 2.5 gallon got 1/2 gallon watering. All watering used well aerated / filtered water. Each H2O2 treatment, he'd leave it in the soil for a couple of hours, then flush heavy with aerated water.

Repeated all with a reduced treatment (3ml/gallon) every 3-4 days for 3 applications. The 2.5 gallon pot plant (it was the one in the worst condition) showed burgundy spots on a few of the top leaves so my bud stopped the treatment. But by this time all the plants were showing signs of recovery (and still are).

They're all a few weeks from harvest - he nipped a few nugs and after a few days hanging, man, the aroma is almost nausating - smells like acid/metallic/caustic industrial cleaner (actually not that far from the aroma of H202). That's only the ones that got the H2O2 treatment - the others that didn't, still have the damp hay/slight citric aroma. We took some leaves from both treated and untreated plants and pulped them between our fingertips - same aroma per, depending whether treated or untreated.

The H2O2 seemed to clear the issue, but the cure (ie the metallic/caustic industrial cleaner aroma) is as bad as the original condition, if not worse.

I'm assuming the H202 caused the aroma change, as it was only those that got that treatment that acquired the new aroma.

Will it clean out in a couple of weeks just being fed water, no nutes (nutes were actually stopped when the H202 treatment started. If it won't clean out from water flushing, can anything be done to diminish it - otherwise those plants are going in the trash.

appreciate in advance

 

[trailblazer2]

I was just told that the grow medium is just peat moss and perlite, so that explains why it soaks up water and also the acid pH. The perlite floats on top eventually so there is less where its needed. after harvest we will look at roots and post details. considering air pots and very interested in other grow mediums... not into hydro, and if I had a choice would use organic nutrients. im old school, my friend is new school... we argue a lot. I guess its worth all the hassle... could not afford to buy equipment myself. back in the day I grew from seed using fluorescents and small metal halides, but much has changed and I have learned many things from new school friends. I just wish they would also learn from me... I have been gardener/landscaper for years. its all good... plants doing great... we are proud of our first real grow.

 

[Granger2]

OrigF/clred,
I don't know that I can do more than guess. I grow organically, paying strict attention to nurturing the microherd. I have only a few times on a total of a few plants had a root rot problem. Don't recall having the problem very far into bloom.

I can only advise on safe dosage for plants. Haven't experienced the smell/taste problem you're talking about. My guess is that you should inoculate the medium with EWC ACT or a commercially available inoculant like Great White or similar, or OGBioWar. The peroxide kills beneficials as well as root rot pests. That is, inoculate after you stop with the peroxide. I'm guessing that that and time will fix the phenomenon.

Also, the few times I've had to resort to peroxide, I fed as usual/needed along with the peroxide. Go heavy handed with a good root stim. Good luck and keep us informed about your results. -granger