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root rot and physan

G

greenhornets

hey all , merry christmas .
i have a turbo garden and a 18 gallon rubber maid tub . both system have root rot .i really dont know how i got it . room stay at 68 / 70 degrees. i change out nutrients 7/14 days and clean the tray and tub out when i change out nutes.i recently got rot in the 18 gallon tub ,about 5/7 day ago . the tub has new clones . the clones have only been in the tub for 14 days (in flowering )the clones went from a cloner straight to the tub ( no veg).both tub and reservoir temps are and stay at 69/70.

i have some physan 20 ,how much should i use and for how long do i need to leave it in the tub and reservoir . can i put nutrient and physan at the same time in the reservoir and tub ??
 

Deft

Get two birds stoned at once
Veteran
From what I read physan20 is the nuclear option, seems it kills almost everything but you still need to find out what conditions are present that allow pathogens to proliferate or else they will be back.
 
G

greenhornets

the turbo garden is a small ebb n flo and the rubber maid has 4 of the 6 inch round air stone and the air pump is eco plus air pump 8 . it has 8 outlet T into 4 lines .
 
G

greenhornets

both were in a habitat tent nut theyve been out the tent for over a week .
 
G

greenhornets

i used physan for 24 hours ,then dumped and washed the tub and lid and pots off with fresh water. then i filled the tub with fresh ph water (12 gallon ) and added the sm90 . i didnt add nutrients yet . i guess tomorrow. the tds was only 250 ,when i got the rot .then it shot up to 310 .

yamaha 1fan , i dont think you can use both together ,one or the other . i could be wrong but if you use both i think the sm90 kills all the goodies in the hygrozyme . ( I COULD BE WRONG . )
 
Y

yamaha_1fan

greenhornets said:
i used physan for 24 hours ,then dumped and washed the tub and lid and pots off with fresh water. then i filled the tub with fresh ph water (12 gallon ) and added the sm90 . i didnt add nutrients yet . i guess tomorrow. the tds was only 250 ,when i got the rot .then it shot up to 310 .

yamaha 1fan , i dont think you can use both together ,one or the other . i could be wrong but if you use both i think the sm90 kills all the goodies in the hygrozyme . ( I COULD BE WRONG . )


Actually some research I did after reading this says otherwise. The SM90 only kills certain bacteria. The people who make SM90 say it should with hygrozyme.
 

Deft

Get two birds stoned at once
Veteran
SM90 seems very benign, smells awesome and works great. Best product I have bought so far by a long shot, roots seem to love it and plants always perk up when I use it even with healthy roots.
 

ItsGrowTime

gets some
Veteran
You can use SM90 and Hygrozyme together no problem. It's Hydroguard (and any other beneficial bacteria) that you can't use with SM90. Are you sure it's root rot? Could be algae...

EDIT: I just saw your other thread. That doesnt look like root rot or algae to me. Why do you think your roots are having problems? Some Hygrozyme will definitely help with keeping your roots cleaner but I don't think you have a problem there.
 
Last edited:

stinkyattic

her dankness
Veteran
That looks like the root ball of a containerized e&f system. When you are root bound in containerized hydro, instead of the first symptom being rolling-down leaves like soil, root rot is often the first indication that your plants are no longer happy in their pots.

I run containerized e&f like you, and you may consider potting up a size and running a combination of cannazyme or hygrozyme, plus something like SubCulture to swing the microflora back in the beneficial direction. Next time, plan to re-pot before the root ball becomes so dense and solid. My root balls look like that on the day of harvest but I would avoid that level of root density while the plants are still bulking up.
 
K

kokua

i don't know...I am going to have to dissagree with the above post. I have yet to become rootbound using hydroton in an ebb n flow setup.

I have a weird take on the subject...but here goes. There is no such thing as rootbound. The problems that are normally associated with 'rootbound' plants can almost always be attributed to lack of water/nutrients. I've seen/grown 5' plants full with fruit that were in 5" containers. They were irrigated constantly...

"rootbound" plants are suffering because there is usually a lot of biomass that the roots are supporting, and the amount of water and fertilizer you are adding is insufficient. The higher the biomass to root mass ratio is the more frequent you need to fertigate.

Think your rootbound? Water more...
 
K

kokua

Your roots look beautiful by the way, no root rot on those plants...hydroton stains roots a reddish brown color. It always will. Nothing wrong with those roots. I would keep on with what you are doing.

Hygrozyme is one of the few products on the hydro market that I don't like going without. SM-90 is good for certain situations, but hygrozyme is always right on time :) Physan I wouldn't touch with a 9 1/2 foot pole.
 

stinkyattic

her dankness
Veteran
HT can become rootbound. The issue is that the roots fill the interstitial spaces that make HT so excellent for e&f, making drainage incomplete and allowing stagnant moisture to remain, and create anoxic conditions within the root ball.

I have seen rootbound HT e&f systems- I consult/troubleshoot professionally. This was an issue with a recent client. The plants (3 feet tall in 6" pots, some had rooted so densely that the pots had ruptured) that had not succumbed already to root rot were showing lockouts from lack of O2 to the root zone, despite acceptable reservoir conditions. We regenerated all his mothers and got back on an appropriate potting-up and retirement schedule for them, and started running Cannazyme plus SubCulture to take care of residual issues. When I left, plant health and vigor was restored by these very simple measures.

HT should not stain roots red when properly rinsed. There are fertilizers that stain roots, but the medium still allows white roots. I see consistently white root balls at harvest with my own e&f HT garden. The HT has been through a soak and rinse before use, and does not affect root or reservoir liquid color in any way.
 
K

kokua

i don't doubt that there are exceptions to what I said...

in my experience i've never seen a rootbound plant in hydroton, and like I said earlier i've seen 5' tall fully mature plants in 5" pots with no evidence of any problems. Doesn't mean it can't happen tho...I can see how a dense root zone could prevent bad air from escaping and good air from entering...it makes sense.
However, the guys roots above are far from bound.

About the red stained roots. I don't know what hydroton you use, but I've used the stuff for 6 years...and I've reused hydroton for multiple grows for multiple years. Even the 2 year old hydroton that had been rinsed and used and rinsed and used and rinsed and used, still stained my roots red. It's a flaky pourous rock...every time the stuff moves it flakes off new dust. I'm curious to hear what your proper rinse is? lol
 
K

kokua

green...If you are worried about your root zone, you have an option. The turbo's have a lid you can purchase at your hydro store. If you don't want to buy one you can make one. Either way it is an option that will allow your roots to go where they want to go... The lid suspends the netcups so that the roots can dangle and form a mat in the bottom of your tray. Just thought I would throw that out there...






I made this lid out of a 1/2" styrofoam sheet I bought at home depot. I cut out the holes and wrapped the foam in black/white poly film. Much cheaper than buying a lid from the hydro store, and you have options as to plant spacing.
 

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