What's new
  • ICMag with help from Phlizon, Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest for Christmas! You can check it here. Prizes are: full spectrum led light, seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Rock Dust

S

SeaMaiden

When I was a kid I considered myself a 'rock hound.' Now perhaps I can truly call myself a 'dust bunny!'
<giggle>
 

Nader

Active member
Veteran
I always use rock dust, and generous amounts at that. For my veggies outside, I rarely had to water during the 2+ month drought we get in the summer. I watered 10 times at the most throughout the season. Rock dust mixed with rabbit manure = manna for worms. I've also noticed improved results when I combine the rock dust with some green montmorillonite clay.
 
E

elmanito

Alright, this is a massive correlation I've dug up over the last week that really started 2 yrs ago. And though the following connections were tied to wines,...it makes sense to me that certain things in nature can be assumed true for both cannabis and wine, such as being able to taste the soil inside the harvested and then distilled (soil-less) end product. (Or foodstuff):)

In Red Clay/loam soils...assumed to contain iron-oxide(ie: hematite)...a mineral abundant on Mars(btw/fwiw), as well as other 'contaminant' particles which often vary and are not found in red clays as consistently as the major metals(players), so they are of lesser value in cross-geological analysis.

Rio Copalita is 'the' Nile river of the farms in this study area.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Flavors commonly attributed to Red Clay terrain are:
*Black Currant
*Black Pepper
*Mint
*Tobacco
*Maple/cocoa

Namaste :plant grow: :canabis:
 
E

elmanito

Why the use of rock dust is more important than the use of NPK fertilizers (organic as well) can you read in this book from 1894 Bread from Stones

6311359-L.jpg


Namaste :plant grow: :canabis:
 

GetUpStandUp

Active member
Rock dust is reality High brix method of organic growing, well in my opinion it is the real way to do organics or to grow anything natrually. I would hate to interupt a thread, or speak on something already spoken on, but like I said hi brix is the only way to do organics, and you will be amazed at the results once you dial it in. you need gypsum powder, phosphate powder, lime stone, and calcium the 90% kind, and do not use dolimite lime, or non horticulture phosphate, amend your soil with mycorrhizea, top dress with hardwood organic non die mulch, and feed worm poo, and yucca teas, along with organic nutes like earth juice,ect. top dress the mix of powders every 4 weeks, and amend your soil with cup of the mix, as well cook your soil using teas for 4 weeks before planting, and watch your mouth drop in the results, if you dial everything in you will never have to worry bout pest again, and you will have the best herb on the planet PERIOD! The best soil is a premium kind like JUST RIGHT XTRA, then amend with just more worm poo, more alaskan humus, and more mycorrhizae, then your rock powders, make sure your calcium to mag ratios are 10.1. The object of this style of growing is to ignor the plant, focus on the soil life, your micro life is the number1 to this the happier they are, the plant will show. Realize what these hurd do, they break down the rock and feed the plant which it could never do with roots, the mycor are nothing more than life lines that mimic, and work as roots to carry the mass loads of food broken down feed the plant 10 times faster. This method has been used to produce the worlds most hearty foods, and when I mean hearty I mean it is reported that test leaving a tomato grown by hi brix left on a table in the open for up to 6 month without rotting, and actually eaten with better taste still over commercial ones. Calcium is key, it builds strong bones in us, and in anything its in, so cell walls get xtra strong and big which is why an average grow with the hi brix will be more than 3 times the size. High brix is nothing more than the measurment of nutrient content within the juice of fruit or veg, the higher the number the better the food. Example normal food grow organically, is a 6 a bad one is a 2, and high brix will be 15, most wine vinyards have been doing this for years. No one has openly tried or documented it being done with herb, or dialed it in to have a great recipe for mj so now more of us are educated, lets get it cracking!
 

Sean Price

Member
I'm glad my copious use of rock dust is being vindicated by this thread.. I get the gaia green kind and it's kinda pricey..I add it at a cup per cubic foot of mix..I get great results just don't breath the stuff!..
 

GetUpStandUp

Active member
Yes never breath any dust specially from rock, it has silica which is very bad, put it this way your lungs cant break down rock, dont try holding your breath, us a old shirt at the least to cover yournose, and mouth, or spray bottle of water to keep dust to minimum. With high brix it is important to note that most common amendments like greensand, azomite, or single forms is only a very minimum affect in comparison to a dialed in mix of calcium, gypsum, phosphate, and limestone. Its trying to maximize the mineral capsity that micro life can use at one time, common methods just scratch the surface, not saying you wasting time, but you can still get tons more out of your grow the roof is way farther up than we think, this is uncharted territory, and most dont know, most are still trying to use the fake natural synthetic process when all along you can gain 10 times more this natural way. You have the idea, you just got to keep reaching. Its like racing a guy with a super charger on thier car, and you have a stock factory car, once you get beat you must step up your game! Good luck and pass the word and educate!
 

GetUpStandUp

Active member
Just started high brix method of mixing gypsum,limestone/not dolimite lime, phhosphate, and calcium mixed in the right ratios, to strain, or genectics of individual plant. Most foods have a brix level, and a mix ratio to get that brix count, but mj does not, we all know why, but the only way you can 100% know what your putting in is having a test done on your soil, and it will give you everything you need to adjust the ratio. It seems hard, and drawn out, but nothing, and I mean nothing can compare to growing this way even Hydro! Your on the right track just do some research on high brix google it, and watch your mind, and growing just open up like never before! Good luck!
 

GetUpStandUp

Active member
Dialed in gypsum, phosphate, limestone, and calcium mixed at the correct ratios, the plants natural defences, and health will be off the charts, plants begin to build a natural wax film from use of foliar teas that bugs hate. Yes for those who hate the borg, or any other bug will love this real all natural true organic on steriods!
 

GetUpStandUp

Active member
Yeah, sorry been busy, yes the only person I found actually growing hi brix in a controlled experiment uses a one gallon pot for this ratio, and says it will not work as fast, or desired results without the Airated teas this is the ratio, the only one for that matter I have found, and with mouth dropping results myself.



amended with 1/4 cup rock powders; Limestone/Soft Rock Phosphate/Gypsum in a 6-5-3 ratio.



And remember if you are going to mix a soil with the rock dust you want to get it established with micro life before planting 4weeks or less ie (cooking) make your mix with mixed in rock, then water it with teas, and really no need for a big concoction of a tea with ten different things, just start off simple which will work better than anything you are using now for same results, just worm poo and maybe a touch of Humus compost.



Be aware, as I just learned myself of your Humus source, as most humus is in fact just peatmoss additives which means peat has same amount of humus, as I am still learning this myself, was using HO alskan magic, this guy done test and found this stuff was a lie, as I am poorly displeased it was my main pick as my humus. I will put link at the bottom.



I my very new research, and study I am finding that to do hi brix you must step back, drop you past understanding of common ways of growing-this will only complicate a very simple thing. This is not hard at all, the hardest is unlearning what you are used to, and the speed of the results! Hi brix will give great results, but once you have everything in play, and in harmony, its not like adding synthetic, and seeing something happen imediately, but once it does watch out.



And also remember, nature is your friend here, the more you know, and use her, oh and learn her, you will start to see more, and do more. Remember the prehistoric period when everything was frickin huge, well minerals were so abundant then without man screwing with it, this is where you are trying to get with hi brix, back to the corrct mineral content in soil to make super life. Remember we stupid humans cant go without bees, plants, or water etc. ect, but the world would thrive without us humans!



Sorry I cant find the post of the humus off hand but if you want this deep info on this, and microbs visit Microbman's page here and look for his test thread on the humus test- good luck!
 
E

elmanito

Interesting, but the Scots at the Seer Centre only add rock dust and compost and they have a great harvest every year.

Any links of your Hi Brix method???

[YOUTUBEIF]xS481oUP8ho[/YOUTUBEIF]

Namaste :plant grow: :canabis:
 

GetUpStandUp

Active member
Sorry bro, I just cleared my history bar, as my computer runs hella slow if I dont, and if I were you just google high brix, its not some hard to reach info, its actually older than all the styles on this site, as wine farmers been using it well over hundred years, its just no one has perfected a hi brix rock mix that get the best brix level with mj yet, everyone runs to synthectics for mj, but I am like a couple weeks from just a basic organic to brix, and since my plants are way, way, way healthier than my privious method.

Sorry I have no camera, everyone ask, but one day soon, and will do a side by side as well. But again sorry I could not give links, but all my info comes from multipal sites on something, so I can get a well rounded grasp of info studied, check out multipal links, but its a simple, and cheaper way to grow, and with uncomparible results, as I well surpassed my unhappiness level since the switch, I just mix my earth juice feed as schduled, and do a worm poo, humus teas inbetween feeds, thats it!

I usually got yellow bottom leaves once in a while, but this switch is fixing this, and my stems got hella fat and sterdy, I run a perpeptual and I got some that were 20 days ahead, and already my new batch with this brix way they are same size, its like double, or tripled my size in plants, its just amazing how much stuff is out there to take money, this is all natural, like in prehistoric times, mass micro nutes, minerals out the yin yang, but now all soil is depleated, so by adding mass minerals, and micro life to break down rocks to feed you get monsters! Good luck, I am always happy to get someone to research it, its just using the brain, and mother nature!
 

Amanita

Member
I've used it with excellent results. Definitely a big fan of it. I'm amazed at how noticeable effects from using it can be and how fast changes can be seen.
 

blooper

Active member
does anyone mix rock dust/greensand or other flour type amendments into water? i forgot to add them when the soil was being mixed up and the ladies are already in the pots so i figure either skip it, try and mix some into the outer edges of the pots or just mix into teas and hope it seeps down into where the roots will have access.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
you can top dress a couple table spoons per container depending how big your containers are.

mixing with water and adding to teas won't work well. rock dust is non soluble and it'll settle out pretty quick.

did you forget all the dry amendments or just the rock dust?
 

blooper

Active member
you can top dress a couple table spoons per container depending how big your containers are.

mixing with water and adding to teas won't work well. rock dust is non soluble and it'll settle out pretty quick.

did you forget all the dry amendments or just the rock dust?

just the dust and greensand. there's plenty of different meals, oyster shell flour and castings/compost mixed in. the pots are 100gal and the transplants came out of 2 gallon pots yesterday so maybe just top dress around the outside of the rootball? should be able to mix it in fairly well without disturbing much.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
oh yeah you're cool then.

top dress a couple cups of each in each pot then cover with a bit of EWC and some mulch. should be fine.
 
Top