RH importance

[Carboy]

sealed room. ac. no intake/outtake. only heat exhaust from condenser side of ac.

air circulation 24/7 in the room is a must. respiration occurs 24/7, even though stomata not open @ night. keep the fans going inside of garden. or if have in/out air, that should be going 24/7. should not turn from 'high' setting to a 'med' or 'low' setting just because it is night for plants.

There are all sorts of rules of thumb for RH, rez temp, air exchange etc.
But i've never seen anything on room circulation. All i've ever done is sit fans and oscillators until i think "Well, hell, looks like enough to me."

Anybody got any better suggestions ?

CB

*edit*
growing greenhouse seedless cucumbers in soil and in soilless media
[excellent text]

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/greenhouse_veg/pdf/GrowingGHCucumbers.pdf

 

[purpledomgoddes]

There are all sorts of rules of thumb for RH, rez temp, air exchange etc.
But i've never seen anything on room circulation. All i've ever done is sit fans and oscillators until i think "Well, hell, looks like enough to me."

Anybody got any better suggestions ?

CB

*edit*
growing greenhouse seedless cucumbers in soil and in soilless media
[excellent text]

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/greenhouse_veg/pdf/GrowingGHCucumbers.pdf

the target for measuring air circulation in the imaginary garden is this:

1 liter spray bottle foliar sprayed @ week x of bloom [gh kool bloom+gh floralicious @ ph 6.8, >250 ppm]. couple drops of baby oil as surficant.

after spraying entire bottle on ripening fruits, should be absolutely no moisture (condensation) on leaves or fruits w/in 30 seconds to 2 minutes. 5 minutes ok for longest for last drop of water sprayed to completely dry.

only evidence of foliar spraying in 5 minutes total, except maybe, drops on floor. even that should quickly evaporate; though towels handy ideal.

if any condensation/water on leaves after full foliar in full bloom, will destroy crop - so tolerance in this imaginary garden is critical.

this degree of air circulation should be maintained 24/7. if sound is issue, sound insulate; but keep the air flowing.

3 fans seem to have done this in several fictitious gardens that may have been.

1-oscillating
1-stationary large
1-air purifier type

size of fans in proportion to garden size. turn them on high and replace them when they break. keep it flowing.

 

[Sweet Inc.]

I had a good reminder of this just now, my ventilation was turned off last night, I forgot to start it up after maintenance
An hour ago I went to the just-lit garden, and all the biggest leaves had droplets of water on their edges. ventilation needed, yes?
This WILL rot yer buds fast, lucky I ain't got em' yet. I'm guessing my coco and plants were very loaded with water, hence the high humidity wich manifested in water condensing everywhere.

BTW, Purp.God, u quoted someone else with my question about RH% and smell. Only a funny observation, nothing else. Keep on tellin'em! (me)

 

[purpledomgoddes]

I had a good reminder of this just now, my ventilation was turned off last night, I forgot to start it up after maintenance
An hour ago I went to the just-lit garden, and all the biggest leaves had droplets of water on their edges. ventilation needed, yes?
This WILL rot yer buds fast, lucky I ain't got em' yet. I'm guessing my coco and plants were very loaded with water, hence the high humidity wich manifested in water condensing everywhere.

BTW, Purp.God, u quoted someone else with my question about RH% and smell. Only a funny observation, nothing else. Keep on tellin'em! (me)

quotation corrected...

the plant is always full of water. that is how the turgor pressure maintains the uprightness of the plant. that is all water pressure, pushing h20 out of plant.

would also make sure dehumidification is occurring. condensation on leaves prevents that internal water from transpiring into environment. it is surface tension of external water pressure, which is an actual weighted force of resistance, that will ultimately slow down metabolism and prevent stomata from opening. alternatively, plant will try to create micro-climate around itself by drawing moisture from the atmosphere. either way, condensation for over 5 minutes is isuue here.

if @ no other time, have garden air dry right after dawn, so stomata can open up and begin gas exchange and releasing water vapor. the time right before and after dawn are critical for influencing plant. if want to foliar, do so @ ~1-2 hours after lights on.

hope this helps. enjoy your garden!

 

[GreenhouseBobby]

Very usefull info nice one guys

 

[Bolivar]

(in response to a question about where you got your plant knowledge)

...a lot of studying, application and experimentation.

greenhouse engineering; plant physiology; agricultural engineering; controlled environment agriculture; botany; biology; chemistry; and organic chemistry are a few areas that provide knowledge of these fields. really no quick way to acquire knowledge, but simply going to the local library for an hour or two a week will teach anybody/everybody something new.

college level texts on biology, chemistry and greenhouse engineering/management will go a long way. should be able to find these @ used book stores, or local library, or local college.

a lot of colleges/universities that have cooperative extensions; dept of ag; natl ag library; etc, provide a slew of data too - free to the public.

would begin w/ a college level biology book. really does go into detail about the actual living processes of plants - and all others living orgs that are symbiotic to plant life.

greenhouse engineering/management text should provide lot of technical data; from people that want to be efficient to save coins+produce veggies in a globally competitive market place.

has taken many moons to acquire sense of ease of gardening. have to get your own comfort zone for your own garden.

really have invested years into learning the art. so, there are still trade secrets :smile: that are too hardly earned to just give away. the data is out there though...

enjoy your garden!

*edit*
growing greenhouse seedless cucumbers in soil and in soilless media
[excellent text]

I'd say that this is an excellent example of "teaching people to fish instead of just feeding them"... Well done, and thanks.

 

[blueberrydrumz]

thx pirate.



low rh formula is basically water add-backs, as old lucas formula/threads discussed. was not discussed so much because of rh, but because plants generally utilize more water than nutes during any res/watering/feeding session/change. ppm of nutes will be higher w/ less water in res, if recirculating, but if hand-watering, feed every 2-3 waterings, etc.

plants want 100% humidity in root-zone+100% humidity in atmosphere. they are constantly functioning to balance this ratio out. 100% rh is inapplicable, so gardeners try to get as close to this as possible, w/out incurring disease/rot/pests, etc.

less nute application is best standard formula to begin w/ due to non-linear absorption. different nutes assimilate @ different ph's, etc.

higher rh promotes growth, as plant is not using energy to simply transpire in attempt to balance in/out vpd. as fruiting commences, nutes+light regime+lower rh encourages fruiting. plant has broad comfort range and will adapt to changes within range.

higher rh w/ good air flow is doable. plant will draw up less root-zone water/transpire less. gardeners seek to 'push' the plant during flowering/fruiting by reducing rh for greater nute absoption/water uptake.

yield is inter-related to all garden variables: cultivar, rh(vpd), diff, root-zone temps+mass, light regime(s), etc. hard to standardize yield assesments w/ thousands of cultivars/various garden environmentals.

plants will uptake+transpire more h20(water) during low rh. nute assimilation/absoption is non-linear/non-correlative to water absorption. the plant will not use as much nutes as water during low rh, as plants only have a need for/can only process a limited amount of nutrients. they need water 100% of the time.

pre-mix organic mixes w/ water only throughout the cycle are documented here. possible to use less nutes, w/ more water add-backs, in hydro, w/ success.

if the garden is producing good vegetables, keep the comfort zone you have established for your own particular environment, regardless of what books/threads, etc say. best indicator of good garden is gardener's own pleasure w/ fruits/vegetables.

hope this helps.

gl

whot a great read... i know this thread is old, but so much good info here... bigup purp

 

[blueberrydrumz]

thx pirate.



low rh formula is basically water add-backs, as old lucas formula/threads discussed. was not discussed so much because of rh, but because plants generally utilize more water than nutes during any res/watering/feeding session/change. ppm of nutes will be higher w/ less water in res, if recirculating, but if hand-watering, feed every 2-3 waterings, etc.

plants want 100% humidity in root-zone+100% humidity in atmosphere. they are constantly functioning to balance this ratio out. 100% rh is inapplicable, so gardeners try to get as close to this as possible, w/out incurring disease/rot/pests, etc.

less nute application is best standard formula to begin w/ due to non-linear absorption. different nutes assimilate @ different ph's, etc.

higher rh promotes growth, as plant is not using energy to simply transpire in attempt to balance in/out vpd. as fruiting commences, nutes+light regime+lower rh encourages fruiting. plant has broad comfort range and will adapt to changes within range.

higher rh w/ good air flow is doable. plant will draw up less root-zone water/transpire less. gardeners seek to 'push' the plant during flowering/fruiting by reducing rh for greater nute absoption/water uptake.

yield is inter-related to all garden variables: cultivar, rh(vpd), diff, root-zone temps+mass, light regime(s), etc. hard to standardize yield assesments w/ thousands of cultivars/various garden environmentals.

plants will uptake+transpire more h20(water) during low rh. nute assimilation/absoption is non-linear/non-correlative to water absorption. the plant will not use as much nutes as water during low rh, as plants only have a need for/can only process a limited amount of nutrients. they need water 100% of the time.

pre-mix organic mixes w/ water only throughout the cycle are documented here. possible to use less nutes, w/ more water add-backs, in hydro, w/ success.

if the garden is producing good vegetables, keep the comfort zone you have established for your own particular environment, regardless of what books/threads, etc say. best indicator of good garden is gardener's own pleasure w/ fruits/vegetables.

hope this helps.

gl

whot a great read... i know this thread is old, but so much good info here... bigup purp