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Remote CFL Ballasts..... Who has the skinny on these?

the thing is 50 watt 3000k bulbs are 2x the price of the 55 watt 3000k bulbs....and there are no full spectrum 50 watt bulbs while there are 3 options for 55 watters. I was really hoping to use mixed spectrum. And I also just noticed the 50 watt bulbs are longer than the 55 watt bulbs.

I'm hoping I just misunderstood the quote I posted, as I have no idea what "PC" or "straight pins" it is referring to. I'm hoping it is talking about the linear bulbs and not the compact fluoros, but at this point I'm not sure. I'll have to do a little more looking around tomorrow.
 

bakelite

Active member
bakelite,

Do you have pictures of your veg area and reflectors. I started another thread and attempting to setup an all-in-one cab using PL-L and possibly a UVB bulb also.


Squeeky, This is what I did. I used sheet aluminum I found at Home Depot, bent it and lined it with Mylar. It works well. The distance between the reflector and the bulb could definitely be further optimized.

I really should have made them with either flat or a creased top that would minimize restrike. The Mylar is taped on there for now, but I really wanted to use some spray contact adhesive on the metal then carefully lay the Mylar down as to avoid air pockets, creases etc. These

Overall I'm happy. They are better than no reflector at all. According to my light meter there was about 20% improvement in light thrown out by the bulbs.


 

Tanuvan

Member
Welp, just ordered 4x55watt of these PL-L's. I want to see what they can do! :) I am running 2X55 per ballast.
 
hey,
i will use 600watt dual spectrum hps lamp for flowering (and for last 15 days of vegging )

i want to use 4 X 55watt PL-L lamps (at 6000 K ) for seedlings during first 15 days of vegging from seed.
after first 15 daYS,i will use 600Watt hps (or i may buy 600 watt MH in future).

as to lucas rule,could i use first 15 days 4 X 55 watt PL-L,
and then may i go 600watt HPS untill to harvest ?


@ hydro-soil


Personally, I follow the Lucas/pH rule of vegging under bloom wattage whenever possible.
What is that rule ?

and thanks for ur reply

Veg under BLOOM WATTAGE!

This means that as soon as you possibly can, get your clones, plants, whatever under the same wattage during veg that you're going to bloom them under.


Plants grow differently according to the light they're exposed to. By vegging under bloom wattage (at the very least for a few days) the plant adapts it's leaves to take advantage of that particular light and also uses that extra light for veg growth. Switching to 12/12 while the plant is still adapting to the light it's suddenly exposed to doesn't allow the plant to get things going as quickly as it should. One thing at a time folks :)
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Squeeky, This is what I did. I used sheet aluminum I found at Home Depot, bent it and lined it with Mylar. It works well. The distance between the reflector and the bulb could definitely be further optimized.

I really should have made them with either flat or a creased top that would minimize restrike. The Mylar is taped on there for now, but I really wanted to use some spray contact adhesive on the metal then carefully lay the Mylar down as to avoid air pockets, creases etc. These

Overall I'm happy. They are better than no reflector at all. According to my light meter there was about 20% improvement in light thrown out by the bulbs.


That look great! :)
I'm still running with nearly no reflector at all right now.

I was curious if we'll get even more light output if we turn the bulbs so they're vertical in the reflector. Wouldn't it put out more reflected light if only one little portion of the lamp was shining into the top crease?

Everything else would bounce off the reflector and down to the plants.

Unless, of course, if the double exposed element gives off more lumens than the double reflected element? :)
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
the thing is 50 watt 3000k bulbs are 2x the price of the 55 watt 3000k bulbs....and there are no full spectrum 50 watt bulbs while there are 3 options for 55 watters. I was really hoping to use mixed spectrum. And I also just noticed the 50 watt bulbs are longer than the 55 watt bulbs.

I'm hoping I just misunderstood the quote I posted, as I have no idea what "PC" or "straight pins" it is referring to. I'm hoping it is talking about the linear bulbs and not the compact fluoros, but at this point I'm not sure. I'll have to do a little more looking around tomorrow.
The 55w are 4,800 lumens in the 3000k range. If you get the full spectrum lamps they're running around 3,000 lumens. (Packaging states 3000, 1000bulbs.com says they're supposed to be 4,800).

Don't get hung up on the mixed spectrum unless you're using them only for vegging. You'll want the 3K to 4K spectrum for flower and they're all 4,800 lumens.

Relax :)
 
@Hydro-Soil
i will use 55W PL-L lamps .4500 lumens and 6500Kelvin .
please look at click me .


@bakelite

why did you make seperate reflector for eacvh pl-l ? and why do you use glass ?

couldnt you use 1 piece of 2 ' X 2 ' aluminum and then couldnt you cover it with mylar ? it would be easier for you. i will make my own like that :

 

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Squeeky

Member
I'll attempt to answer for bakelite, the reason he did each seperatly is due to increased reflection. Having the downward angle on sided of the lamp increased downward light. If there was nothing there it would just hit the bulb next to it.

As seen in your picture of the fixture the center two bulbs "side light" is not being utilized as well as it could. The real question is if it worth it? I'm no optics freak so I can't answer the percentage difference. The other question is will it reduce heat doing them separately as the bulb will not be directing light against the bulb next to it. This is the reason I switched from coil CFLs.

Squeeky
 

Squeeky

Member
Just an FYI the bulbs from Planetbulb.com are EiKO brand. One thing weird is the 6500k bulbs are shipping in 5000k boxes with stickers over the temp. The bulb itself is DT55/65, which all online references state 4800 lumens so that may be a good option in the future for everyone. Plus as under $7 a bulb a great deal if they hold up.
 

D.I.trY

Member
That look great! :)
I'm still running with nearly no reflector at all right now.

I was curious if we'll get even more light output if we turn the bulbs so they're vertical in the reflector. Wouldn't it put out more reflected light if only one little portion of the lamp was shining into the top crease?

Everything else would bounce off the reflector and down to the plants.

Unless, of course, if the double exposed element gives off more lumens than the double reflected element? :)

I have been thinking about reflector design for a Pl-l bulb for days and i never did i think of that. Its counter intuitive to rotate the bright face away from you - i think its serious lateral thinking there buddy. Anyways, I was so interested by the idea that i decided to do a little test using some card.


a coating of aluminium foil tape (the best tape ever invented?):



voila:



and flat on:




As you can see the reflected area is brighter with it flipped but with a flat face the optimal shape for a reflector is much harder to make because it should have curves or many small folds in the bit directly above the top face. This reflector has the advantage of being easy to make, very easy infact, and may even be better. restrike is extremely low.

it could also be made more compact. the upper V should be the diameter of the tube in width but ive managed to fold it slightly larger. all turns are 90deg.
 

Squeeky

Member
D.I.

Keep up the hard work on the reflector, I'd like to steal your ideas in the future :) Good work though man, I will hopefully building reflectors as well.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
I have been thinking about reflector design for a Pl-l bulb for days and i never did i think of that. Its counter intuitive to rotate the bright face away from you - i think its serious lateral thinking there buddy. Anyways, I was so interested by the idea that i decided to do a little test using some card.


a coating of aluminium foil tape (the best tape ever invented?):



voila:



and flat on:




As you can see the reflected area is brighter with it flipped but with a flat face the optimal shape for a reflector is much harder to make because it should have curves or many small folds in the bit directly above the top face. This reflector has the advantage of being easy to make, very easy infact, and may even be better. restrike is extremely low.

it could also be made more compact. the upper V should be the diameter of the tube in width but ive managed to fold it slightly larger. all turns are 90deg.

That's excellent!

Just makes sure you're not putting glass between those lamps and your plants. If you have a heat issue, fix your ventilation since that glass will absorb waaaaay too much light from those lamps.
 

D.I.trY

Member
No I would never recomend using card with foil tape on for a reflector!... it is just a test of your idea :) - its the easiest way to find out if it works: which i think it does!

It would be very easy to make out of thin aluminium sheet however.

Erm, having just reread your comment, what do you mean about glass?
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
No I would never recomend using card with foil tape on for a reflector!... it is just a test of your idea :) - its the easiest way to find out if it works: which i think it does!

It would be very easy to make out of thin aluminium sheet however.

Erm, having just reread your comment, what do you mean about glass?

Posting while over-medicated again. :)

Saw the photos of the light setup using the Pl-Ls and thought it was yours for a moment. :)
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran

From what you posted I"m guessing that you're looking for a ballast that will run 'Circleline' Lamps? I would look on the packaging for the lamp for ballast specifics.

You're going to require a ballast that matches the Circleline lamps and I don't know what those are. I know that the Fulham Workhorse series is an electronic ballast that adapts to the lamp that's plugged into it. They DO handle the Circeline lamps that you posted a link to.

Hope that helps a bit.
 

Tanuvan

Member
That's excellent!

Just makes sure you're not putting glass between those lamps and your plants. If you have a heat issue, fix your ventilation since that glass will absorb waaaaay too much light from those lamps.

Light loss from regular glass is approx 7%. Not sure that qualifies as "waaaaay" too much light loss. All kinds of studies have been done by people who grow coral and have to project light through glass. The loss is not really all that significant.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Light loss from regular glass is approx 7%. Not sure that qualifies as "waaaaay" too much light loss. All kinds of studies have been done by people who grow coral and have to project light through glass. The loss is not really all that significant.
Coral doesn't produce THC and other cannabinoids when exposed to UVB. The glass knocks out most UVB. Losing the glass will see a significant increase in potency with these lamps.

These lamps run so cool anyway that you don't need glass. The plants can almost grow up into them without damage anyway. Just a wee bit of air movement is enough to push the hot air off the lamps and into whatever fan you have venting it.
 

Tanuvan

Member
I believe we all know that coral does not produce THC, and that was not the point of what I stated. I see that you missed it. What I was saying about the coral is that research regarding the dispersion and or refraction of light passing through glass has been studied. The amount of light passing through a glass is known...regardless of what you are trying to grow.

Glass does not block a significant amount of light...which is in fact true. As far as I know, regular flouro tubes do not produce large amounts of UVB. If you want that, you would be better served with specific UV CFL bulbs. Then your argument might be more valid.

I seriously doubt that adding glass to this type of lighting will cause a decrease in THC levels. This sounds like a bit of speculation on your part.

I would much rather have more lumens and use a glass heat shield, rather than less lumens without one. That...is the essence of my point.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
I would much rather have more lumens and use a glass heat shield, rather than less lumens without one. That...is the essence of my point.

The entire point here is that with these lamps a HEAT shield is completely unnecessary and detracts from the lumens you're wanting so much. Even if you believe it's 'negligible' you'll see a pretty good difference between side by side grows.

These lights can already almost sit on the plants so 'getting them closer' isn't a plus when adding glass to these lights.

Glass makes less of a difference with HID lighting as it's also higher intensity. These lamps aren't like HIDs in that respect. You're better off adding a bit more air flow instead of glass.
 

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