G
guest 77721
Woohoo 
My LUI just lifted her skirt and showed me a little preflower.
Otherwise things are a pretty slow here in the Lodge. I checked my pH on the last watering with the run off on all the plants about 6.7.
If you've followed any of my grows, I test the pH of the soil regularly with an aquarium test kit. These are like $5 at a pet store.
To get started testing pH, you need to know what your tap water is like. My tap water is excellent and tests out at 7.0 with no minerals or salts.
The second thing to test is the pH of your nutrient mixture. If you know what you're putting into the pot then you'll have a good idea what runs out of it.
When I water my plants, I only put enough water in so it starts to drip out. I collect the water that drains out and test the pH. This isn't the true pH of the soil but it does give you a good idea what's happening in the pot.
When I was running salt based fertilizers like Shultz 10-15-10 and using Epsom salts for Mg source, the salt residue would buildup and pull the pH down. I would flush out the soil to recover.
I'm using Dolomite Lime for Ca and Mg and Advanced Nutrients Sensi fertilizers which are salt free. My pH is stable through the grow and I never have to flush.
This is for the more advanced growers. I use the pH reading to see if the plant is taking up nutes or water because the pH will change accordingly.
I'm trying to follow a weekly feeding schedule where you feed once a week and water in between if needed.
Nutes build up in the soil so if I see a dropping of the pH, then that plant needs water on the next cycle. This is very important near the end of flowering as the plant slows down its nute uptake.
Also if it's hot or really dry the plant will take up more water than nutes and pull the pH down as the nutes concentrate in the soil.
If the plant is growing hard, the pH will rise so I feed on the next cycle.
My LUI just lifted her skirt and showed me a little preflower.
Otherwise things are a pretty slow here in the Lodge. I checked my pH on the last watering with the run off on all the plants about 6.7.
If you've followed any of my grows, I test the pH of the soil regularly with an aquarium test kit. These are like $5 at a pet store.
To get started testing pH, you need to know what your tap water is like. My tap water is excellent and tests out at 7.0 with no minerals or salts.
The second thing to test is the pH of your nutrient mixture. If you know what you're putting into the pot then you'll have a good idea what runs out of it.
When I water my plants, I only put enough water in so it starts to drip out. I collect the water that drains out and test the pH. This isn't the true pH of the soil but it does give you a good idea what's happening in the pot.
When I was running salt based fertilizers like Shultz 10-15-10 and using Epsom salts for Mg source, the salt residue would buildup and pull the pH down. I would flush out the soil to recover.
I'm using Dolomite Lime for Ca and Mg and Advanced Nutrients Sensi fertilizers which are salt free. My pH is stable through the grow and I never have to flush.
This is for the more advanced growers. I use the pH reading to see if the plant is taking up nutes or water because the pH will change accordingly.
I'm trying to follow a weekly feeding schedule where you feed once a week and water in between if needed.
Nutes build up in the soil so if I see a dropping of the pH, then that plant needs water on the next cycle. This is very important near the end of flowering as the plant slows down its nute uptake.
Also if it's hot or really dry the plant will take up more water than nutes and pull the pH down as the nutes concentrate in the soil.
If the plant is growing hard, the pH will rise so I feed on the next cycle.
