Receptacles: 120V 20A to 240V 20A

[In Vino Veritas]

Can anyone explain this to me? I have CR20 Leviton receptacles, they are Pro Grade and rated for 120V at 20A. I know it's possible to convert them to 240V depending on how you wire them from the breaker/timer, I've used them before...this is my first time actually wiring them up myself.

I'll be wiring these off of an T-104 Intermatic..if it matters..

 

[cocktail frank]

it doesnt matter where the wires go for 22ov.
on a 120v receptacle youll have 3 sets of screws on it.
green= ground
silver= white (neutral)
brass= black (hot)

diff is that if you are wiring them 220v, you have no neutral.
just 2 hots and a ground

 

[Guest]

At the outlet apply black tape to the white/neutral to identify it as "hot".

Locate the white/neutral as noted above at the ground/neutral buss bar in your electrical panel and detach it. Apply black tape to the wire to identify it as "hot". It is VERY IMPORTANT that you have identified the correct white/neutral involved. If you have ANY DOUBT, DON'T DO IT !!!!!!

You are now ready to attach it to the 240 breaker. Remember that other outlets on the circuit will also be 240 so don't plug your PC or appliances into that circuit.

Identify ALL outlets on that run with a label applied to the cover plate noting 240V. To return things to normal, work backwards, removing black identifier tape and re-attaching the white/neutral to the ground/neutral buss bar.

There are instances where ceiling lights are on the outlet run so if you start blowing light bulbs you will know why. Not to worry, install 240V rated light bulbs. They are harder to find but available. (common to overseas usage).

Good morning

Ty-Stik

 

[In Vino Veritas]

This is the model: http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/model_CR20.htm

The screws aren't labeled, well ground is green. But the other 4 screws seems to be connected on both sides, meaning the two screws on the left have a metal bracket that links them. I guess to only have to wire one?

I'm wondering how I go about wiring these properly for 220V, I don't know if I need to cut anything on the receptacle first?

 

[Guest]

Holding a duplex receptacle in hand the neutral are the silver screws and the brass screws are the hot lead hook ups.

Ignore the "metal bracket" as you call it as it plays no part in your 240V hook up. It has a purpose not related to your needs. (If you insist on confusing yourself further I will explain the "metal bracket" to you).

Follow the instructions noted in the above post. In the 240V application attach a hot, one to each side (silver and brass colored screws) The ground is still the ground.

You will do just fine Veritas.

Ty-Stik

 

[In Vino Veritas]

heh.. i don't know the technical terms for the parts of the receptacle. But I see the difference in sides, one has brass screws the other seems to be aluminum/steel. But where these screws go, is one piece of brass where both screws makes contact. Do I need to so anything special with this? I've seen people cut it so it's independent?? If I don't cut it do I only put one hot to each side? I guess I'm saying I think two hots per side is going to make it 480?


I'm going to be running two receptacle to a T104..240, so about 5-6 amps a light..

I have another thread where I'm getting help for the power panel I'm building..it's already at 4 pages though and most of the pertinent questions have been answered.

 

[Guest]

Man you are making it way too difficult..Slap a hot on a brass terminal and one on a silver terminal,take your pick which goes where.Two hots per side = a dead short,dont try it lol.

 

[In Vino Veritas]

alright good enough..I only use one screw per side, and I don't use the ground..

lol..I was waiting for it

 

[Guest]

People CUT IT so they can make a switchable outlet where a table lamp, for instance, can be plugged. When they walk in the room and flip the wall switch it hots up the selected outlet and turns on the lamp (provided the lamp switch is in the ON mode). The other outlet remains HOT at all times. Pheeew ! getting pooped.

Ty-Stik

 

[In Vino Veritas]

Sank-you Son!

Appreciate all the help, thanks guys.

 

[Guest]

IVV you do use the ground!It goes under the green screw.You're freakin me out now officially.

 

[yamaha_1fan]

Maybe I am confusing him more but the reason for the 2 screws I thought was so you could wire the outlet, then run wires off the other screw to the next outlet.

 

[Guest]

When I first started wiring in the early 80s it was a common wiring practice with BX cable to feed one side of the receptacle and come off the other to feed the next.This is against code now you must "pigtail" and splice in the box so that there is only one terminal used on aech side.This way the splice is not the receptacle itself.Splice is another word for joint and I dont mean aspliff mon

 

[yamaha_1fan]

When I first started wiring in the early 80s it was a common wiring practice with BX cable to feed one side of the receptacle and come off the other to feed the next.This is against code now you must "pigtail" and splice in the box so that there is only one terminal used on aech side.This way the splice is not the receptacle itself.Splice is another word for joint and I dont mean aspliff mon

So I am right in a sense. wonder why the outlets still have that feature built in. Maybe for existing homes?

Why is having the outlet as the splice such a bad thing? Is it bad to do if we are wiring up some outlets on a board for a grow? I dont think I will have my board inspected