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REALSTYLES DIY CXB3590 TUTORIAL

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
Great looking plants guys!
Are these all 3500K cxbs? I'll be jumping on this wagon very soon, can't wait:)
 

hempfield

Organic LED Grower
Veteran
Mine are 3000K CBX, driven at 38% of maximum power. 6xCXB3070 units per 3x3. Total power consumption 252W at the wall. Height above the canopy is 3" to 10".
 

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
I ordered some cxb3590 3500K CD bin versions and they seem to have run out of stock the moment before my order was made. Very bad timing indeed!

If there are other CCT versions available, which should I get instead of the 3500K ones mentioned above?
I was thinking 4000K CD or DB bin, will there be enough reds in the spectrum for good bud production?
 

REALSTYLES

Member
pffft waste of good tech:plant grow:
Still good in my book I only had 12 plants and it reached 100+ degrees where I live and I didn't even use any AC so I call it a win. Wait you are not growing so you can't really say anything because you have zero harvest lol
 

REALSTYLES

Member
Can you show a closeup of how you wired these?

I'm also not sure how you got the lenses on and the wires disappeared
I had to drill 2 extra holes to each cob to run the wire through

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Seriousbuds

New member
Awesome. Can you show how they're wired to the drivers?

I don't want to wire these 'backwards' or something and blow up $600 worth of LEDs :p
 

Sforza

Member
Veteran
Awesome. Can you show how they're wired to the drivers?

I don't want to wire these 'backwards' or something and blow up $600 worth of LEDs :p

From the driver, wire positive lead from the driver to the positive pad on the COB, then from the negative pad of that first COB to the positive pad of the next COB and so forth until from the last COB in the series, when the negative lead from the driver goes to the negative pad on the COB. If you just have one COB then the positive lead on the driver goes to the positive pad on the COB and the negative lead on the driver goes to the negative pad on the COB.

If you use the COB holders that Realstyles recommends on his build list, it is very easy to connect the COBs since the connections on the holders are well marked and you do not have to solder the wires to the pads on the COBs. They are well worth the money.

You can go watch the YouTube video that Realstyles links, but it is mostly just Realstyles fooling around with wago connectors. He has to keep stopping the camera and getting his shit together. It is hard to learn anything from the video except that Realstyles is better at building COB lights than he is at making videos showing how to wire up drivers.

The main theme of his video is how to wire in a female end connection from an extension cord into your AC power in line, so that you can plug in a power supply for the fan. If you use a little 12 volt one amp driver that you wire up with line in screws on the AC side, you don't have to fool with the wiring in the plug end into the system.

Google SupraSPL to find the real Guru on LED lighting. That guy knows his stuff and he can make even an electrical neophyte like me understand the basics.

Realstyles asked SupraSPL what the top of the line components were to make a super efficient and highly reliable system. SupraSPL told him and credit Realstyles for taking that information and running with it.

Realstyles has pretty much perfected the big, powerful light, using low power adjustable drivers, which are very efficient and should last a long time.

You can build a less expensive light that would put out the same or more light for less money, but over the life of the unit, Realstyles has a really great light and one that if you simply copy what he has done, will get you up and running using LEDs using state of the art equipment.

As you learn more about LEDs, if you follow Realstyles build, you won't be saying in six months that you wished that you had used a different driver or COB, you will be saying that you are glad that you copied Realstyles, since it is a very solid design.
 

REALSTYLES

Member
Well got my Apogee PAR sensor with my Fluke multi meter today. I just got to wire it so it can go into the meter. I'll be test PAR soon.

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