re: lumatek ballasts will get u busted... omfg its true

[h^2 O]

wow this is fucked up man. Like supermanlives said if it was actually effecting THREE HUNDRED homes then it would be an FCC thing...maybe they think you have a pirate radio station going.
From all these posts it seems clear these ballasts are causing a problem.

Instead of chopping your plants and taking down the gear, you could get rid of the cable/internet. That's one solution. I don't have cable and I'm still alive. You could also find a spot outside for the plants to finish. And instead of taking down the lights etc. you could go and buy a bunch of cheap flowers in pots and put them in the grow area. And if the pigs come they'll look like idiots.
If all of us are chiming in about this and saying there's problems, I'm SURE the cable guy talked to another cable guy and he heard a story form another cable guy about interference coming from a house and it turned out there was a grow inside. They can also just google it. I'd say leave the plants where they are, and call the cable company and have them cancel your account immediately. Then when the grow is done have it hooked back up. But you'll have problems again, so I'm not sure what to do. I'd say ditch the cable man. Mooch wi-fi off a neighbor, or use your phone's internet connection to tether to your laptop. IF you're not familiar with this just type your phone model in google with the addition of the word "tether" and you should find many instructionals.

So it comes down to what's more important - you're grow, or cable. Ditch the cable bro.

 

[olddirtybastard]

been using 3k worth of lumateks for 5 years now no issues, radio reception is not the best in the basement, but then again my radio is old and beat up with a half severed antenna lol.

only issue i had is on one of my old lumateks the fuse kept blowing until it melted the plastic housing. since replaced for a newer model.

also i used the good cordsets.

 

[St3ve]

I have two 1k lumatek's that were bought new last August. They are plugged into a dedicated 240 outlet that goes straight back to the panel.

About 4 months ago, I had no cable or internet one morning when I woke up. I called and they said it was because they blocked my house because of the high level of line noise that could potentially cause problems with others' internet. When the cable guy came back to unblock me, he said that the line was clear and it really could of been anything, and that it happens all the time. (my ballasts were off at the moment).

That day, I went out and bought two surge protectors with line filters for the power and cable jack. I plugged both the cable box and modem in them, as well as the coaxial cable going into the wall jack. I have no way to check it now, but I know that I have not had another problem since. (knock wood)

 

[nukklehead]

Wow great posts with info... see both sides of the scale.. I was going to upgrade my 3 y/o magnetic ( which has no probs) name brand with quantums...Only a 1K .. was for efficiency reasons.. After researching the great IC mags forums... related to law of diminishing returns i.e 600 vs 1k vs mag vs dig. I think I will get a new capacitor and continue on with my mag. If someday I decide to go to dish ( argument with the wife) then maybe Ill get the quantum. But as long as the great comcast owns my ass....... I think I will stick with mags.

To each his own situation

Thanks for the info!

 

[NiteTiger]

Fuck Comcast.

Fuck them with a dried, splintered fence post.

 

[Cannabinoholic]

Fuck Comcast.

Fuck them with a dried, splintered fence post.

Hahahahahaha

 

[nugghead]

Looks to me like the right advice has already been given in this thread, so I'll summarize.

1) Learn to build a Faraday cage. It's not complicated. Grounded poultry netting is almost good enough; brass screen is better.

2) Know your grounds and their quality. Get an outlet checker. Make sure your shit is grounded. If you are using an old microwave oven as a Faraday cage, it has to be plugged in at least to ground.

3) Fuck Comcast with a dried splintered fence pole.

That is all.

 

[Strainhunter]

Looks to me like the right advice has already been given in this thread, so I'll summarize.

1) Learn to build a Faraday cage. It's not complicated. Grounded poultry netting is almost good enough; brass screen is better.

2) Know your grounds and their quality. Get an outlet checker. Make sure your shit is grounded. If you are using an old microwave oven as a Faraday cage, it has to be plugged in at least to ground.

3) Fuck Comcast with a dried splintered fence pole.

That is all.

Or:

Use UL listed digi ballasts like I do.

 

[NiteTiger]

Or:

Use UL listed digi ballasts like I do

and fuck Comcast with a dried, splintered fence post

 

[Hammerhead]

　​

The Lumatek Digital Ballast ​

[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]

"The Lumatek electronic ballast produces up to 27% more lumens that a standard core and coil (magnetic) ballast while drawing less electricity. The Lumatek ballast is completely silent (no more humming) and produces less heat than a standard ballast. Because of the Lumatek's soft start technology, the lamps last up to three times as long. Test data has shown that a Lumatek
600 watt ballast produces within 5% of the useable light of a 1000 core and coil ballast! Digital ballasts also do not degrade as standard ballasts do. Over time magnetic ballasts become louder, produce less light, emit more heat and use more electricity. Electronic ballasts maintain their efficiency throughout their life span.​

[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]

Why choose electronic ballasts over a core-and-coil (magnetic) ballast?
•​

[/FONT]​

[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Fast startup - reaches full brightness in under 1 minute; magnetic ballasts typically take about 20 minutes
• Completely silent - you have to put your ear up to the ballast before you can detect the slightest sound
• Small, compact design - 600W 240V ballast weighs less than 11 pounds compared to 40 pounds for magnetic ballasts
• Produces less heat than magnetic ballasts
• Cut-off-circuitry - automatically shuts off in case of a short
• Efficient - uses less electricity than magnetic ballasts
• Longer bulb life - lumen output loss over time is dramatically less than with magnetic ballasts
• Lumatek ballasts can light both MH and HPS lamps; the 600W HPS ballast will also light 600W MH conversion bulbs
• More lumen output - 20-30% more lumen output than regular ballasts ​

　
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]

Why choose Lumatek over a Future Bright, ROM Light, Terra Grow or other electronic ballasts?
•​

[/FONT]​

[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Lumatek ballasts include a 15 foot RF shielded output cord that can be extended up to 30'. All other digital ballasts can only have a 10-12 ft lamp cord, and most of them interfere with radio and satellite TV signals because they are not shielded. If you don't see the metal mesh between the outer insulation and the wires in the lamp cord, then it's not shielded (no matter what the sales person tells you).
• There are no fans to break down and make noise; fan-cooled ballasts have a high failure rate, especially if they are utilizing cheap fans - the Lumatek's failure rate is only about 3 in 1000. Lumatek ballasts can withstand very high temperatures and the epoxy used to seal the ballasts also act as a heat sink, so Lumatek ballasts do not require fans. Although many fan-cooled ballast manufacturers state that their ballasts are cooler to the touch, they are just blowing the hot air created by the ballast out into the room, so although their ballasts may seem cooler to the touch, your room really isn't any cooler with these ballasts. In addition, the large openings required for these fans also allow dust to enter the unit and fire to escape if they malfunction (yes, we saw this happen to one customer).
• The ballast can be mounted in areas of high heat, up to 140 degrees
• Every ballast is tested and burned in for 12 hours at the factory
• The Lumatek ballast has the best warranty of all electronic ballasts -5 YEARS! (3 year exchange 2 year prorated). Future Bright: only 2 years (an optional 3rd year can be purchased for an $40.00). ROM Light: only 3 years. Terra Grow: 1 year replacement; 4 years prorated.
• Lumatek ballasts are 8% brighter then ROM and Future Bright ballasts
• No fans to break down after 1 year
• Safer - the Lumatek is completed sealed from the inside (as are most high-powered fluorescent ballasts). Although the Future Bright ballast claims to have the same overload protection and sleep mode function that Lumatek has, we have seen several customers who experienced situations where the ballast should have shut itself down but never did (even when the ballast was submerged in water!). Lastly, we have dropped Lumatek ballasts from over 5' in the air onto the hard ground while still plugged in repeatedly to ​

　

demonstrate to customers how durable and safe these ballasts are, and the light never even flickers - don't try that with any other ballast!
• Lumatek ballasts are the only digital ballasts endorsed by G.E. and U.L. approved at the time of this writing.​

　
[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]

Why doesn't Lumatek offer their ballasts with a switchable voltage feature?
•​

[/FONT]​

[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]240V electronic ballasts run much more efficiently than their 120V counterparts. Some electronic ballast manufacturers offer a switchable voltage feature that allows you to switch from 120V to 240V. What they are actually selling is a 120V ballast that will operate on 240V, but you lose all the efficiency advantages that you would normally gain by running a true 240V electronic ballast. ​

　

Important information regarding Lumatek ballasts:​

　

1. 240V ballast wiring - VERY IMPORTANT! It has come to our attention that customers are using a NEUTRAL wire in their 240V electrical system. Lumatek ballasts will malfunction if the 240V circuit has a NEUTRAL. The input for the ballast is 2 HOT WIRES and 1 GROUND WIRE. Some electricians insist on wiring a neutral with their 240V installations. This should not be done when using electronic ballasts. If you are using a light controller ONLY bring a ground wire and two hot leads from your electrical panel.
2. All electronic ballasts (not just Lumatek) are not able to consistently ignite SOLARMAX bulbs. Solarmax bulbs require a very high voltage to start. The Lumatek's soft start technology will not provide enough voltage to light this brand of lamp. They will also not fire Multi Vapor Metal Halide bulbs.
3. Electronic ballasts should not be used on generators. Damage to ballasts caused by electric generators will not be covered under warranty.
4. Electronic ballasts will work only with Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium lamps. They will not work with Mercury Vapor (MV) or pulse strike metal halide lamps.​

　

Lumatek electronic ballasts are available in 250W, 400W, 600W, 750W and soon 1000 watt versions. Most ballasts are available in either 120V or 240V.​

Lamp cord is included. Socket assembly is sold separately. The socket assembly you choose should match the reflector you are going to be using with your Lumatek ballast."
[/FONT][/FONT]

 

[hup234]

Hammerhead,there was absolutly no mention of a splintered fencepost in your last post,it's not to late to edit...

 

[Hammerhead]

I have no Idea what your referring to ???? Thats just a cut and paste bro.

 

[Duplicate]

^ He was trying to be funny by saying that you didn't include the most pertinent part of the last few suggestions that came before yours, in addition to your cut and paste. Did it work?

 

[Hammerhead]

no I dont think I got it lol. I got the impression that people thought Lumatek was not UL approved that was the purpose of that post.

 

[Bazarocka]

Give Um Hell

Give Um Hell

I cannot believe anyone "with a brain" would make the above kind of post.

My Galaxy Select-A-Watt Electronic Ballasts comply with UL, CUL & EMC standards.

How about yours?

U must excuse "the grasshoppers" on the board. Their Young & Still Learning.

 

[Bazarocka]

Do What

Do What

^ He was trying to be funny by saying that you didn't include the most pertinent part of the last few suggestions that came before yours, in addition to your cut and paste. Did it work?

Im sorry don't take this as being sarcastic,,,I don't mean it to be. But I picture u saying what u wrote "D". And I have to ask, "did you, would you" get that all out in one breath. LMAO


Just a lil humor on the board,,,,, k.......


Im just "Indicated Out"..........Peace Bozzie

 

[Strainhunter]

U must excuse "the grasshoppers" on the board. Their Young & Still Learning.

Right on!

Sad thing is for some of those it'll be the 1st (and last) mistake...and that even tough ALL the info necessary to avoid above already is around.
Not only here but elsewhere as well.

 

[Duplicate]

Im sorry don't take this as being sarcastic,,,I don't mean it to be. But I picture u saying what u wrote "D". And I have to ask, "did you, would you" get that all out in one breath. LMAO


Just a lil humor on the board,,,,, k.......


Im just "Indicated Out"..........Peace Bozzie

hahah I'm not sure what there is to be offended about. It's all jokes man.

I would not have been able to say that out loud in one breath though as my written reply was considered and revised before submission.

 

[nukklehead]

Your right fuck comcast.. but the wife wont let me rid of it.. and I give her the fence post every night............ so...........it is (for me) what it is

 

[TripleDraw27]

i gave Lumatek a chance. I was on my 3rd Lumatek ballast, still getting RF. Had my electrician re check all cables and inputs, nothing there fixed the RF. Returned the 3rd Luma Ballast, and picked up a phantom..no RF. Thats three Lumateks, that aint bad luck...maybe my shop had a bulk of bad ones sent to him for a cheaper price lol, who knows. All I know is I can now listen to my radio <3 lol.