Hello to all. I actually have a couple of ouestions. 1st, which is the better meter, Milwaukee PH600 or Hanna Checker 1. Would just like to have an educated opinon prior to investing in one. 2nd, is Nirvana Misty hard to clone or is it just me? I have no luck at all & I've tried every method except water cloning of some kind. I had "Great" luck with seeds, "Shi***" with clones. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
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Question about PH meters?
- Thread starter Hutch
- Start date
Mikey
New member
Well as far as your first question goes, I also am thinking of buying a combo pH meter, and I would choose the milwaukee over the hannah as the milwaukee meter is made by a quality company who stand's by their tools.
For the price though I bet you can get the Hannah cheaper and it should be ust as accurate and last just as long. So if I had to choose because of price the Hannah would prob be cheaper.
As far as conging goes man, build you a cheap buble cloner and sit back and watch....bubble cloners work almost as fast as aeroponic cloners and are 100x cheaper. you can build one for about 20$. I have gotten about 90% success rate without a humidity dome using my bubble cloner.
For the price though I bet you can get the Hannah cheaper and it should be ust as accurate and last just as long. So if I had to choose because of price the Hannah would prob be cheaper.
As far as conging goes man, build you a cheap buble cloner and sit back and watch....bubble cloners work almost as fast as aeroponic cloners and are 100x cheaper. you can build one for about 20$. I have gotten about 90% success rate without a humidity dome using my bubble cloner.
K
kokua
to be perfectly honest both are cheap meters...but I wouldn't trust that Milwaukee pH600 as far as I can throw it... Invest a bit into your meters...trusting an innacurate meter is worse than not checking at all. Just an opinion of someone who has used both cheap and expensive meters.
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G
Guest
Hutch,,
First you have to understand that those hydro meters are calibrated for "synthetics", not organic soil. You won't get a true reading from the "runoff" or the "tea"....But, if you're good enough with your fertilizer's you can make up your own PPM & PH requirement for your plant.
Also, do a google search for "Kelway Moisture and PH meter" and you should come up with one that will check potting mixes and give you a true reading....JMO...LC
First you have to understand that those hydro meters are calibrated for "synthetics", not organic soil. You won't get a true reading from the "runoff" or the "tea"....But, if you're good enough with your fertilizer's you can make up your own PPM & PH requirement for your plant.
Also, do a google search for "Kelway Moisture and PH meter" and you should come up with one that will check potting mixes and give you a true reading....JMO...LC
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K
kokua
should that effect pH LC? I thought that was only true for ppm/ec
G
Guest
If one is calibrated for synthetic liquids, so is the other...However, I would trust a ph meter before I would a PPM or EC meter....Just stick to a steady recipe with your teas and you'll have your ppm's whether they are on the money or not...Keep records and you'll know what to do....But when you change strains you've got to do it all over again....It would be cheaper in the longrun to buy the Kelway.....LC
G
Guest
The electrode on my Hanna Checker finally crapped out after two years and was, past tense, really happy with it. After more research I've decided to go with Hanna pHep5 as it's accurate to .05 pH. .1 accuracy is the minimum you should go with even though these units will be more expensive than what you're looking at. A Checker is advertised as accurate to .2 pH, they say it's usually .1 accurate though, and to me that's almost useless.
In my opinion, pH is not as big of a factor in organic growing as some may think. If you use a good peat or coir based grow medium with plenty of humates and the proper amount of dolomite, you should never have any problems.
I have used Pure Blend Pro that had a finished pH of about 4 and never saw anything but great growth. My guano teas have gone as high as 9 and I had nothing but BIG BUDS.
pH is critical in chemical/synthetic growing but not in organic.
My best advise is use a good tried and true organic soiless mix along with a good nute recipe and throw that pH meter away.
JMO.
Burn1
I have used Pure Blend Pro that had a finished pH of about 4 and never saw anything but great growth. My guano teas have gone as high as 9 and I had nothing but BIG BUDS.
pH is critical in chemical/synthetic growing but not in organic.
My best advise is use a good tried and true organic soiless mix along with a good nute recipe and throw that pH meter away.
JMO.
Burn1
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K
kokua
^ not a widely held opinion...just an FYI. I don't doubt that BurnOne is telling the truth, but he is the exception to the rule. pH is always important... always checking your pH isn't. You have to learn your water source and your nutrients...once you have figured out how both effect pH...you can usually go without testing.
I would never suggest dosing plants with water or nutrient that was as low as 4 or as high as 9. Never.
I would never suggest dosing plants with water or nutrient that was as low as 4 or as high as 9. Never.
G
Guest
kokua,
BurnOne didn't say that PH wasn't a factor...He said IF enough dolomite had been added to the potting mix, it's nothing to worry about......DemoMan
BurnOne didn't say that PH wasn't a factor...He said IF enough dolomite had been added to the potting mix, it's nothing to worry about......DemoMan
K
kokua
^and I am still saying that you should check your pH...advising someone to not check isn't right. Lime helps keep pH were we want it...but isn't a cure-all for pH. Burnone also said that a pH of 4 and 9 is ok...that is what I am advising against 
G
Guest
Why, of course, you should check your ph....But everyone doesn't have a means of checking ph....But as long as I have Pulverized dolomite lime, I'm not going to spend a $100 for a ph pen...I think you and BurnOne are "both" correct on the issues....LC
And the fact of the matter is, the pH of the nute soultion is changed and buffered by the organic grow medium. The dolomite nutralizes the pH and the humus (humates) buffer the pH so the plants can take them up through the roots. You can't argue with the fact of the finished product.
If you don't have the proper dolomite and humates then yes, pH is an issue.
Just another beautiful advantage of organic growing.
Burn1
If you don't have the proper dolomite and humates then yes, pH is an issue.
Just another beautiful advantage of organic growing.
Burn1
G
Guest
BurnOne,
Well, said.....I think you've improved since I've been gone....LMAO.....LC
Well, said.....I think you've improved since I've been gone....LMAO.....LC
Ph is a sensitive point in this forum and just so we are clear I am with B1 on this one, there is a whole thread somewhere in this forum debating the need for measuring ph and I think it was all said and done in that thread so let's skip it.
My honest opinion is buy litmus paper, that's right paper ph testers, cheap, 100% accurate and no bells or whistles just dunk and read the chart.
Organics will lead to a path you like and you won't need to measure ph, you'll have a recipe that works and you'll trust it blindly like the more experienced growers do.
PPM is an ionic measure and organics are mostly full organic molecules broken down into their ionic form by microbacteria thus PPM readings for a teas and organic ferts are good for shit.
Also 2 in ones are crao, if you must have both buy seperate meters as the probes for each measure like seperate conditions which the caps of the 2 in 1's don't really work in favour of, also as Kokua wisely pointed out spend the $ for a meter if you do buy one.
Hanah's were my favorite, now I trust my thunb.,
S
My honest opinion is buy litmus paper, that's right paper ph testers, cheap, 100% accurate and no bells or whistles just dunk and read the chart.
Organics will lead to a path you like and you won't need to measure ph, you'll have a recipe that works and you'll trust it blindly like the more experienced growers do.
PPM is an ionic measure and organics are mostly full organic molecules broken down into their ionic form by microbacteria thus PPM readings for a teas and organic ferts are good for shit.
Also 2 in ones are crao, if you must have both buy seperate meters as the probes for each measure like seperate conditions which the caps of the 2 in 1's don't really work in favour of, also as Kokua wisely pointed out spend the $ for a meter if you do buy one.
Hanah's were my favorite, now I trust my thunb
.,S
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Jesusbuiltmygro
Member
I agree, go with seperate meters.
If you want to save money a cheap paper or chemical PH kit should do it, but it's nice to have a meter.
I like the Hanna equipment over Milwaukee. I think Hanna is easily the more popular of the two.
I beleive the PH meter is the more important of the two meters by far. A cheap PPM meter off ebay is good enough as long as it gives consistent results. It doesn't matter if you PPM is 10 or even 50 points off in most cases and in my experience PPM meters are more durable than PH meters. SOooo, invest more in a PH meter.
I like the newer Hanna waterproof PH meter. It was only about 50 some dollars. Just don't get that older model hanna PH meter that they sell on ebay for 30 bucks with the long skinny probe.
If your budget isn't tight I hear very good things about the Truncheon PH meter, but they are a lot more expensive. I'd recommend the Hanna. I just bought mine a few months ago and I researched meters and reviews for awhile. For the price and decent reviews the Hanna pHep4 seemed to be the one and I like it so far.
No matter what meter you get make sure you take care of it and ensure the elecrtide doesn't dry out and never leave the cap off.
I also had the older 200+ dollar Hanna combo meter and it was very nice but was taken in a raid. I liked the useability of the units with the remote probes instead of the ones with the probes built into the unit because it's easier to measure. Truncheons are extra long to help with this problem.
The new Hannah Combo unit is only about $130. I haven't tried it, but it's probably a good bet. I found more complaints from owners on the millwalkee equipment.
I did hear that some of the Hanna meters may not be entirely waterproof in the reviews, but I've dropped mine in the rez a couple times with no problems.
For the money I love it. If I had the wealth I'd go truncheon
If you want to save money a cheap paper or chemical PH kit should do it, but it's nice to have a meter.
I like the Hanna equipment over Milwaukee. I think Hanna is easily the more popular of the two.
I beleive the PH meter is the more important of the two meters by far. A cheap PPM meter off ebay is good enough as long as it gives consistent results. It doesn't matter if you PPM is 10 or even 50 points off in most cases and in my experience PPM meters are more durable than PH meters. SOooo, invest more in a PH meter.
I like the newer Hanna waterproof PH meter. It was only about 50 some dollars. Just don't get that older model hanna PH meter that they sell on ebay for 30 bucks with the long skinny probe.
If your budget isn't tight I hear very good things about the Truncheon PH meter, but they are a lot more expensive. I'd recommend the Hanna. I just bought mine a few months ago and I researched meters and reviews for awhile. For the price and decent reviews the Hanna pHep4 seemed to be the one and I like it so far.
No matter what meter you get make sure you take care of it and ensure the elecrtide doesn't dry out and never leave the cap off.
I also had the older 200+ dollar Hanna combo meter and it was very nice but was taken in a raid. I liked the useability of the units with the remote probes instead of the ones with the probes built into the unit because it's easier to measure. Truncheons are extra long to help with this problem.
The new Hannah Combo unit is only about $130. I haven't tried it, but it's probably a good bet. I found more complaints from owners on the millwalkee equipment.
I did hear that some of the Hanna meters may not be entirely waterproof in the reviews, but I've dropped mine in the rez a couple times with no problems.
For the money I love it. If I had the wealth I'd go truncheon
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K
kokua
BurnOne said:
agreed...I don't doubt your results bro.
What I am saying is that you understand the importance of a healthy soil...a living soil,soil ammended with the proper amount of dolomite and humates. You are the exception to the rule. Most buy soil and put it in the pot... or they mix the soil according to some recipe given to them buy a friend ...or whatever not really understanding what is going on. In either case I wouldn't recommend straying outside the normally accepted pH range. I mean why chance it. It's not difficult or time consuming to pH your water before you feed. THe potential for trouble is greater if you don't. Just my opinon I suppose.
CaptJamesTKirk
Active member
Interesting discussion.
pH in soil, semi soil or potting soil becomes terribly important when it is out of range for cannabis. From what I read about Hydro/aero - even more important, but I'm not a dro grower.
I learned about the importance of PH when I followed somebody's advice to use FF Tiger Bloom ar recommended levels and "go for it"
uhhhhh yeah - 1 watering with something with a pH of 4.something will convince most of us to start reading some more. Shortly after that I was at the local grow shop buying a Milwaukee PH51 and calibration solution (Just as important as the tester) (We use Milwaukee test instruments at work - not cheap but reliable and repeatable) (And repairable)
I still use FF TB, but only 1/2 strength. If I need a higher dose of P & K, a dose or two of PK13-14 - which is FARRRR more ph friendly but still requires tweaking to get to 6.2 ish.
I read here of growers the don't check pH, ones that do and everywhere in between. I like the way the garden responds if I monitor and adjust the input. It hasn't been cheap and I've invested a lot of time in the pursuit of excellence - part of it was pH.
pH in soil, semi soil or potting soil becomes terribly important when it is out of range for cannabis. From what I read about Hydro/aero - even more important, but I'm not a dro grower.
I learned about the importance of PH when I followed somebody's advice to use FF Tiger Bloom ar recommended levels and "go for it"
uhhhhh yeah - 1 watering with something with a pH of 4.something will convince most of us to start reading some more. Shortly after that I was at the local grow shop buying a Milwaukee PH51 and calibration solution (Just as important as the tester) (We use Milwaukee test instruments at work - not cheap but reliable and repeatable) (And repairable)
I still use FF TB, but only 1/2 strength. If I need a higher dose of P & K, a dose or two of PK13-14 - which is FARRRR more ph friendly but still requires tweaking to get to 6.2 ish.
I read here of growers the don't check pH, ones that do and everywhere in between. I like the way the garden responds if I monitor and adjust the input. It hasn't been cheap and I've invested a lot of time in the pursuit of excellence - part of it was pH.
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