Purple Afghan breeding project

[Guest]

Ohm's law. If the board is running on a 12V supply, and has 24 strings of LEDs running at 20mA, then 24 x 20mA = 480mA, the board is using 0.48A of power, 12 x 0.48 = 5.76W

My veg light has 50 strings total, running at 12V using a 1.25A PSU. 1000mA = 1A, 1250mA/50 strings = 25mA per string. Total wattage is 12V x 1.25A = 15W.

The resistors, well, if you match your LEDs carefully to your PSU, 1R (1 ohm) resistors should be fine.

Yes, 6000mcd is fine, the ratings are fairly meaningless anyway as the manufacturers lie so much. All cheap 5mm LEDs are pretty bad, so you need a lot of them. A 12 string red panel I made as a tester a couple of weeks ago to run on a 12V 0.5A adaptor now has two strings (6 LEDs per string) burnt out, so you have to expect some of the LEDs to burn out if you're using these cheap ones. That said, one of my 4 dollar CREE red high power LEDs has burnt out after a week too.

 

[H&L]

Great thread bro. I gotta do some catch up reading, not only is the strain of interest, but I dig the LED set-up. I've been toying with the idea of using them for a little while now.

 

[Guest]

Hey H&L, great to seen ya back!

My first trial LED run is just using 50W of high power LEDs, I'm gonna add more for second run, I'm learning as I go so it's gonna be somewhat of a learning curve with some setbacks along the way methinks. However, for vegetative growth, LEDs are brilliant, there are significant energy savings to be made, but currently, you need to do some DIY as the LED 'growlights' being sold currently are shite, it will be a while before properly designed units are available cheaply, but when they are, it's time to throw out your fluoros and metal halides.

We are slipping towards an energy crisis in the UK with ever rising electricity prices, so if everyone adopted LEDs for vegging, imagine the kilowatt hours saved! It's a little bit we can do towards solving this energy crisis - be more efficient with our use of lighting!

 

[The 420 Wookie]

GP I dig this! When I move out I am looking for a cost effective method to grow. This sounds perfect for veg. Especially if you've had such great success with plants not stretching compared to CFL's. I have almost all the equipment needed to do it besides the actual LED's and boards and resistors and what not.

How many of the LED's are dying out? Once they are soldered in can they be un-soldered and replaced? And , have you figured out the respective lumen output of the LEDS, like. Your 15W board of 75 LEDS?.. has about how many lumens?

Any more details ya got would be great!

 

[Guest]

Lumens are pretty useless for measuring these things as the luemn scale is heavily weighted towards the yellow and green wavelengths - lumens are all about what appears bright to the human eye, and yellow and green appear brightest as they are in the centre of the eye's sensitivity range.

I'd say roughly 15W per square foot of LEDs is about right for vegging plants and would suggest a ratio of 75% blue, 25% cool white.

Yes, the LEDs can be replaced, but it's not that easy in practice.On my veg light, there are two strings of 3 that burnt out right away, and one blue LED burnt out after a couple of horus in another string, but after 2 weeks of operation, no more have burnt out.

 

[THC•20]

I remember those pics. Man those are the most purplelicious buds I have ever seen! Please tell me you eventually have a plan to share these genetics lol.

 

[Guest]

That's the plan, currently searching for the correct purple mother to make seeds.

 

[Guest]

I have been spraying a PA cut with Colloidal Silver for two weeks since putting it into flower, and it has undergone a complete sex reversal and is now producing only male flowers, which is great news even tho this particular cut is the green/pink pheno as it means when I do find the right purple pheno I can self it to make S1s.

 

[Guest]

I replaced my 250w HPS in my wardrobe with my large 62W LED array today, sadly one of the three LED strongs has stopepd working, all the LEDs appear fine, so I'm not sure what's wrong with it, but I'm gonna finish the four plants I have going currently (two El Yucatecas, The Smelly One and a Purple Afghan) under the 46W of LEDs that are working then I'll fix the array one way or another and also add some UV LEDs and do another flower run.

I've removed the ducting for the cooltube and the exhaust fan which saved 20-odd watts alone, I've kept the two 12V 120mm fans that move air in and out of the box and the 240V air circulation fan, but I might remove these later if I feel they aren't necessary for extra energy savings. I'm probably gonna add a homemade yeast in a plastic container of water CO2 generator for my second LED run and that will require the wardrobe being a sealed environment, which will mean removing the fans anyway.

I also built another 25W light with 10 red CREEs, 2 coolwhite CREEs and 2 warm white Luxeon K2s, all running on a 700mA driver circuit on two CPu heatsinks joined togetehr and the driver bolted on top. I also added three 3W UV LEDs, I think they are by Edison Opto. There are running on a 12V 350mA driver circuit as it was the only suitable driver I had to hand, but when I can afford to replace it with a 12V 700mA one I will to get the full output from these UV LEDs. These 'UV' LEDs are actually 400-410nm, so not really true UV, but I am keen to see if this wavelength has any effect on resin production. I have set this new array up to replace the large one in the small flower space, so I now have 48W of LEDs in the small space and 46W of LEDs in the wardrobe.

I am interested to see whether the UV LEDs make any difference, and also the difference in effectiveness between red CREEs and red Luxeons as the wardrobe has Luxeons only and the small space has CREEs.

 

[Sammet]

You're certainly going all out. I'm interested in the UV too - have been thinking about trying out one of those reptile UV lights in my setup. Does UV affect THC production? Also does UV degrade THC? Those are questions I'd like to get to the bottom of.

 

[Guest]

Here's some info on UV and THC:

Posted by OT1 @ http://www.reefermanseeds.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234

Growing weed that is truly hallucigenic does not have much to do with the strain. They can all do it - any decent strain that is in the class of Cannabis. Be it indica or sativa. Though with Sativas you are more likely to succeed as they have resin balls on the end of their tricloms that are of a smaller diameter than the resin balls of an indica.Sativas are 25micron in diameter - Indicas 75micron in diameter, when fully developed, respectivley.


For a better understanding of what I am refering to, please go and read this - it is the most pioneering work of our times on this subject - and is correct down to a Tee. Read it thoroughly and understand everything it is depicting, as it will elevate your complete understanding on how REAL hallucigenic cannabis is grown. It is not the genes - it is the means by which it is done. Irrespective as to what all other works/text and seedbank-advertising has said or outlined about it till NOW.

Enjoy:

http://marijuana-optics.greatnow.com/

There are proper Fluorescent UVB(and UVA) tubes available and they're much more expensive than the UVA and the standard ones(4times or more the cost). Never run them on Energy-saver or Econo running gear as that produces less lumen output with any fluro. But be very careful when using the UVB tubes. If not for the slightly glowing tube when they are on, you could hardly tell they were on in the room - they transmit entirely in the invisible wavebands, whereas UVA tubes, MH and HPS transmit low amounts of only in the UVA waveband, which is slightly visible(voilet) and nowhere near as penetrating/powerful as UVB. But expose any skin to them(UVB 40W tubes) from less than 6feet away, and it burns in minutes. Like proper sunburn and worse if closer - can easily promote skinCancer(as does the sun). Can give you cateract in no time at all, even with sunglasses, from even 10feet away and more. IF you intend on using them, make sure that you never walk into the growroom when they are on. Have a swtch for them outside the room, or just inside the door. If just inside the door, turn them on and off immediatly you close or open the door. One 40Wer can cover an area 5foot down, 5foot by 5foot across. So with every 600 or 1000Watter, you have 1 40W UVB Fluro with it, AND '120W Clear Incandescent bulb as well for 1 hour either side of lights on and off - simulating the red ambient light of the outdoors ever dusk and dawn of every day anywhere in the world'. This Incandescent wavelength is as critical as any other. The lightband is required as it aids in the 'benefical' toxification and detoxification the plant needs to complete the activation process fully. Couple all that up and timed correctly indoors with either MH or HPS, and pollenate the mum/s, and you'll be well on your way to producing the most potent buds you can indoors. More potent than any indoors buds grown without all these factors - no matter how sticky and smelly they are. They won't be as potent as the ones you grow using this ENTIRE method.

This one will do but be careful not to place them too close to the plant as they will burn it too. Be very careful when using them not to damage yourself also. Go to the 3rd item down on this page - LS18/CB - 240 Volt UV Lamp:


http://www.prospectors.com.au/defaul...ine.asp&id=176

You can email or ring companies like Raytech and or Heraus for full specs of all there products. They make their lamps for the manufacturing, scientific and medical industries. Heraeus - http://www.noblelight.net/tr-uvindex.html - also have a range of hand-made MH that are very strong in emitting the UV bandwidths. Being specialised lamps, they are not cheap. Using the sun itself is cheaper and far safer. There are cheaper fluros on the market that will do the job - you just have to find them, but they are not as high in there output of the desired wavelengths(300-315nm) as are these specialised ones for professional work. The wattages required for the right type of UVB are far less than we are normally use to with fluros. 10W of proper UVB light is extremly powerful in its illumince output, penetration and damaging effects. Keeping in mind when looking for them to ask for the ones that have a very hi output in the 300-315 nano meter range - that is the most effective UVB range. The reptile tubes are very low output in this range, they have a higher output above the 320nm range and into the UVA range. They are not good for growing, that is why you can keep your hand warm with them and not cause it any damage/burn. Remember that the lamps we need here will damamge flesh and eyes if exposed to them, even for a short period of time. I do not recommend using them. They can be used, but it is hard to get them setup right and to maintain using them without hurting yourself. But keeping in mind that as with everything we need - if we can't have it all, some is better than none. To supplement your existing HID setup with any UVB emitting lamp is better than not having one at all. But it must have a reasonable amount of output in the 300-315nm wavelengths. They are the wavelengths that are most effective and they operate at the prefered Kelvin temperature range that the plant needs to see/feel, that aids in the full activation.

The BLACK tubes are a UVA tube fundamentally. They will not have much effect on the plants. Your may have stretched as a result of not enough light ot too much heat or a combo of both. Black lights, reptile lights, aquarium UV lights are all UVA rich, not UVB. They have a very small amount of UVB, and it is that minute amount(well under 3% - some under 0.9% of the total UV spectrum they emit, not the total spectrum they emit) that makes them warm things. Even 1W of the right UVB spectrum at a distance of 1foot from the source will burn you in no time.

So IMO, again - if you want to do it right and saftely, do it outside. I answered the question of the what the right UVB lamp is, not because I would advise others to do it(as I wouldn't do it myself), but as a guide to show that it could be done if one was crazy enough to do it. Also not forgetting the aging effect the lamp would have on anything and everything that it shined on in the growroom. Newly painted surfaces would look over 20years old in 1 year of exposure from a good distance away. In fact scientists use this method for determining the aging and destructive effect that sunlight exposure has on any surface. They can very very accuratly determine how a given paint(for instance) would look after 10 years of being applied on wood, then exposed to the sun every day, within a 'half to one hour' period of exposure to the predetermined amount of UVB in a laboratory. I have it on good authority that a test like that would take no longer than an hour to run - not days, weeks, months or years. Testing time could even be reduced by increase the amount/rate of UVB on it, to as little as under 15minutes of exposure, to simulate 10years in the sun every day. But that would increase the error factor of the testing to over 2%. Which may seem ok to us, but it is not in the scientific industries with this type of testing and determination that is done in any decent Standards Certified photometric laboratory.

These are supplimental urls to the original one I gave in my first post.

http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/N35Lat.html
http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/litesetup.html
http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/litepic.html


OT


3 - "Are you saying to run only the red incandescent during the first and last hours of lights-on?"

YES, as the sole source of light for the 1st and last hour of the entire life of an indoor grow - both veg and flower.

"And the UVB flouro(s) during the entire light-cycle?".

The UVB fluros are a supplemental source to the HIDs and are run in conjunction with the HIDs only during the period that is within the 'first and last hours of lights-on', after and before the incandescent lights are run. Rememeber also, that the transition between the incandescent lights and the HIDs+UVfluros is a MAKE-BEFORE-BREAK scenario that assures the plants are not left in darkness.

 

[Guest]

And here is the article OT1 refers to:

MARIJUANA OPTICS

An elaboration on the phytochemical process that makes THC
by Joe Knuc

The resin exuded by the glandular trichome forms a sphere (1) that encases the head cells. (2)

When the resin spheres are separated from the dried plant material by electrostatic (3) attraction and placed on a microscope slide illuminated with a 100W incandescent bulb, they appear very dark when observed through a 300X microscope. Since orange, red, and infrared are the component wavelengths of incandescent light, and since the absorption of light makes an object dark or opaque to the frequency of the incoming wave, one can conclude that these wavelengths are probably not directly involved in energizing the cannabinoid pathway. (4)

However, the resin sphere is transparent to ultraviolet radiation. (5)

The author found through trial and error that only one glandular
trichome (6) exhibits the phytochemical process that will produce the amount of THC associated with pain relief, appetite stimulation and anti-nausea; euphoria and hallucinations are side-effects, however. This trichome is triggered into growth by either of the two ways that the floral bract is turned into fruit. (7)

Of all the ways that optics are involved in the phytochemical production of THC, the most interesting has to be how the head cells and cannabinoid molecules are tremendously magnified (8) by the resin sphere. These and other facts are curiously absent from the literature. The footnotes update the literature to include electrostatic separation of the resin sphere from the dried plant material and marijuana parthenocarpy.


(1) "For all spheres, a ray drawn perpendicular to the sphere's surface will intersect the center of the sphere, no matter what spot on the surface is picked, and the magnifying power(a) of a glass sphere is greater the smaller its size. A sphere of glass can also bring light that is heading to a focus behind it to a point within it, with freedom from two aberrations, spherial aberration and coma, but not from chromatic aberration. Chromatic aberration results when different wavelengths are focused on different planes and is the most difficult of the aberrations to correct. The human eye lens also exhibits chromatic aberration, but a yellow pigment(b) called the macula lutea in the fovea, an area at the rear of the eyeball, corrects this problem by the way it absorbs blue light."

(a)"The formula to calculate the magnifying power of a sphere is l=333/d, where l is the magnifying power and d is the diameter of the sphere expressed in mm."

(b)Interestingly, the resin exuded by drug-type flowering female marijuana plants has a yellow tint. Could this pigment work to correct chromatic aberration in the resin sphere like the macula lutea does in the fovea for the eyeball?

(2) Quoting from the Mahlberg and Kim study of hemp: "THC accumulated in abundance in the secretory cavity where it was associated with the following: cell walls, surface feature of secretory vesicles, fibrillar material released from disc cell wall, and cuticle. It was not associated with the content of the secretory vesicles."

The resin spheres contain the THC. It is not contained in the leaf or floral bract. After the resin spheres are dissolved in solvent or dislodged by electrostatic attraction, and a microscopic examination of the leaf or floral bract has revealed that only the glandular trichomes' stalks remain, no effect will be felt after smoking the dried plant material from which the resin spheres have been removed.

(3) The electrostatic collection of the resin spheres from dried marijuana plants with plenty of ripe seeds has been for hundreds of years the method indigenous people of North Africa and Lebanon have used to make hashish. Obtain a round metal can 8" or so in diameter x 3" or so in depth (the kind that cookies come in) with a smooth lid. Obtain 2 ounces of dried marijuana with plenty of ripe seeds in the tops. To remove the seeds and stems, sift the marijuana tops through a 10-hole-to-the-inch wire kitchen strainer into the can. Close the can with the lid and vigorously shake the closed can three or four times. This gives the resin spheres an excess negative charge. Let the can sit for a moment and then remove the lid. Opposites attract. The negative-charged resin spheres have been attracted to the metal surface of the can and lid which has a positive charge. Take a matchbook cover or credit card and draw the edge across the surface of the lid. Note the collected powder. Observed under 300X magnification, the collected powder from this "shake" is composed of resin spheres with an occasional non-glandular trichome. As the marijuana is shaken again and again, and more of the yellow resin spheres are removed from the plant material, the collected powder gradually becomes green-colored as the number of non-glandular trichomes increases in the collected powder. The greener the powder, the less the effect.

(4) "Cannabinoids represent a dimer consisting of a terpene and a phenol component. Cannabigerol (CBG) is the first component of the pathway. It undergoes chemical change to form either cannabichromene (CBC), or cannabidiol (CBD). Delta 9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is derived from CBD."

(5) "Pate (1983) indicated that in areas of high ultraviolet radiation exposure, the UVB (280-320 nm) absorption properties of THC may have conferred an evolutionary advantage to Cannabis capable of greater production of this compound from biogenetic precursor CBD. The extent to which this production is also influenced by environmental UVB has also been experimentally determined by Lydon et al. (1987)."

The writer's own experience allow for a more specific conclusion: If the UVB photon is missing from the light stream(a), or the intensity as expressed in µW/cm2 falls below a certain level(b), the phytochemical process will not be completely energized with only UVA photons which are more penetrating but less energetic, and the harvested resin spheres will have mostly precursor compounds and not fully realized THC(c).

(a)Examples of an environment where the UVB photon would be missing from the light stream include all indoor cultivation illuminated by HID bulbs and in glass or corrugated fiberglass covered greenhouses.

(b)"The maximum UVB irradiance near the equator (solar elevation angle less than 25 deg.) under clear, sunny skies is about 250 µW/cm2. It was observed that the daily solar UVB in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia (N24.4Lat.) decreased from September to December by about 40% (Hannan et al. 1984). The further a person is from the tropics, the less UVB radiation there is: the average annual exposure of a person living in Hawaii is approximately four times that of someone living in northern Europe." Below are some UVB readings taken in Hoyleton, Illinois, on a clear sunny day in June by David Krughoff as reported in Reptile Lighting 2000.

7am: 12 microwatts/cm2
8am: 74 microwatts/cm2
9am: 142 microwatts/cm2
10am: 192 microwatts/cm2
11am: 233 microwatts/cm2
12pm: 256 microwatts/cm2
1pm: 269 microwatts/cm2
2pm: 262 microwatts/cm2
3pm: 239 microwatts/cm2
4pm: 187 microwatts/cm2
5pm: 131 microwatts/cm2
6pm: 61 microwatts/cm2

(c)Cannabinoid pathway: Anywhere in this pathway UVB
(320 nm - 290 nm) does a better job than UVA (400 nm - 320 nm) in energizing a phytochemical reaction that will produce more fully realized THC because "all cannabinolic compounds show an absorption maximum between 270 and 280 nm in the ultraviolet region."

(6) Capitate-stalked glandular trichome.

(7) #1: The ovum has been fertilized and there is a seed developing: In the areas of the Northern Hemisphere where indigenous people have grown heterozygous drug-type marijuana for hundreds of years, pollination is used to trigger the growth of the capitate-stalked glandular trichome on the floral bract and concomitant leaves of the flowering females before the autumnal equinox(a) so the majority of seeds will be ripe(b) before November.

(7) #2: The floral bract has become parthenocarpic: Parthenocarpic fruits develop without fertilization and have no seeds. Except for transmutation and turning lead into gold, there has been more nonsense written about seedless marijuana than on any other subject. In marijuana parthenocarpy, the floral bract (the fruit) enlarges in size as though there were a seed growing inside, and the capitate-stalked glandular trichome is triggered into growth on the floral bract and concomitant leaves. "Most popular supermarket tomatoes are parthenocarpic which was induced artificially by the application of dilute hormone sprays (such as auxins) to the flowers." In a trial, marijuana parthenocarpy was not induced by the application of the spray used on tomatoes. Only the photoperiod(c) will trigger parthenocarpy in flowering female marijuana plants. Marijuana parthenocarpy occurring before the autumnal equinox is considered by the author to be "long-day" and marijuana parthenocarpy occurring after the autumnal equinox to be "short-day".

The longest photoperiod that will trigger parthenocarpy in unfertilized flowering homozygous(d) Indica female marijuana plants is 13:00 hours, give or take 15 minutes. This effect can be obtained in the month of August at N35Lat, and because the capitate-stalked glandular trichomes received plenty of UVB during this month at this latitude, the harvested resin spheres had fully realized THC. Rating: euphoria and hallucinations, major appetite boost and pain relief, deep dreamless sleep. These plants seldom grow taller than four feet but potency makes up for the reduced harvest.

The gene pool is heterozygous if a flowering female marijuana plant is not parthenocarpic by the end of the first week in September in the Northern Hemisphere. If this is the case, pollination is used instead of parthenocarpy to trigger the growth of the capitate-stalked glandular trichome before the autumnal equinox to obtain as much fully realized THC as possible in the harvested resin spheres by the time the majority of the seeds are ripe.

The longest photoperiod that will trigger parthenocarpy in unfertilized flowering heterozygous female marijuana plants is 11:00 hours, give or take 15 minutes: This effect can be obtained in the month of November at N35Lat. Because of the low intensity of UVB radiation at this latitude at sea level during November, the harvested resin spheres evidenced only slightly more THC than precursor compounds. Rating: mild to medium euphoria, appetite boost and pain relief, good snooze.

Thai marijuana falls into this 11:00 hour category, and its parthenocarpy is characterized by an inflorescence in which many floral bracts are attached to an elongated meristem. It is these elongated meristems that are harvested to become a THAI STICK. On the other side of the world, Mexican marijuana grown around the same latitudes (Michoacan, Guerrero, Oaxaca) also falls into this short-day parthenocarpic category and the unfertilized marijuana will become "sensimilla" in the 11:00 hour photoperiod which begins in mid-December in that region. The winter sunshine in those latitudes has more UVB intensity than the winter sunshine at N35Lat.

All unfertilized flowering female marijuana plants will become parthenocarpic in a 9:00 hour photoperiod (15:00 hour dark period): This can be obtained in the month of December at N35Lat. At this latitude in this month there is not even enough UVB in sunlight for precursor vitamin D3 to develop in human skin. The phytochemical process will not produce THC whenever the UVB and UVA photons in the light stream fall below a certain level of intensity expressed in µW/cm2. Rating: no effect.

(a)In the Northern Hemisphere above the Tropic of Cancer, the key to all marijuana potency is this: The more days of sunlight the capitate-stalked glandular trichomes' resin spheres accumulate before the autumnal equinox the more fully realized THC.

(b)It is recognized in the indigenous world that drug-type marijuana with a majority of ripe seeds will produce more euphoria, hallucinations, appetite stimulation, pain relief, and sleep aid than with a majority of unripe seeds.

(c)The photoperiodic response is controlled by phytochrome. "Phytochrome is a blue pigment in the leaves and seeds of plants and is found in 2 forms. One form is a blue form(Pfr), which absorbs red light, and the other is a blue-green form(Pr) that absorbs far-red light. Solar energy has 10X more red (660nm) than far-red (730nm) light causing the accumulation of Pfr." The first and last hour of a day's sunlight is mostly red light because of the scattering effect on blue light. "So at the onset of the dark period much of the phytochrome is in the Pfr form. However, Pfr is unstable and returns to phytochrome Pr in the dark." The red light in sunrise returns the Pr to the Pfr form. "Phytochrome Pfr is the active form and controls flowering and germination. It inhibits flowering of short-day plants (the long night period is required for the conversion of Pfr to Pr) and promotes flowering of long day plants."

(d)In Nepal and nearby areas of India where the capitate-stalked glandular trichome is triggered into growth by parthenocarpy rather than by fertilized ovum, great care is taken to make sure that all male marijuana plants are destroyed as soon as they reveal their sex. This is because unfertilized Indica flowering females can have both stigma and anther protruding from the floral bract. In the Indica gene pool, female-produced pollen carries an allele for long-day parthenocarpy, and seeds resulting from this female-produced pollen will produce another generation of female plants that will also exhibit long-day parthenocarpy during flowering. But if pollen from male plants is introduced into this gene pool, the resulting seeds will produce a generation of females that will exhibit short-day parthenocarpy instead. The allele for long-day parthenocarpy in the female-produced pollen is carried into the gene pool by self-pollination and cross-pollination, and perhaps homozygous is used too loosely here to describe the genetic result.

(8) It appears that the resin sphere acts as an UVB receptor and magnifying lens. The latter apparently lets it gather in a lot more photons than would otherwise be possible; because a lens also acts as a prism, the resin sphere may prevent some wavelengths from being focused where the phytochemical processes are taking place because they could interfere with the efficiency of the phytochemical process that makes THC.

Joe Knuc is a pseudonym. If the paragraph or sentence in Marijuana Optics has quotes around it, then somebody probably with a degree wrote it. As for the rest, it was all written by Joe Knuc and the views expressed are his alone except where indicated.

Copyright (c) 2002 (rev. 2006) Joe Knuc.

 

[Guest]

I've added a 160-LED panel to the back wall of the wardrobe as supplementary lighting, it has 120 640-645nm reds, the remainder being a mix of blue, cool white, warm white and ultraviolet. It's running off the same Dell laptop PSU as the main array. The array has two 1400mA strings so it draws 2.8A. The Dell PSU is 3.34A so there is 540mA available to the 160-LED panel. The panel has 20 strings so 540/20=27mA per string, which is within the 30mA maximum they are rated for. The panel runs at 19.5V and draws 540mA so it consumes 10.53W of power (19.5 x 0.54 = 10.53W) so in total I now have 57W of LEDs in the wardrobe.

 

[purpbythepound]

Hiya folks

I'm sure you remember the Purple Afghans I grew last year, here's some pictures to jog your memory:

QUOTE]
Absolutely stunning!!You have no clue what i would give to grow some purple buds like this!!

 

[Guest]

That plant won 4 POTM awards at different sites and never even got nominated here, ah well.

I'm workign hard on getting a PA seedline with a high percentage of purple individuals (it's currently about 50/50 purple pheno/gren/pink pheno.

When I get a truebreeding purple female I'll self it to make S1s, that should keep folks happy.

 

[esbe]

That plant won 4 POTM awards at different sites and never even got nominated here, ah well.

well bro. it did now, hehe. funny i didnt nominate that one before, i really thought i did!

 

[Guest]

Actually esbe, I think someone did but the link was to an off-site photo so it wasn't elligible.

 

[Guest]

Hey Ganja,

here is some crap shots of the black russians

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=1784920#post1784920

 

[kenned]

Nice!
Think I'm gonna read that text you threw up about thc and uv....

Sending you an pm..

kenned

 

[Guest]

The plants under the LED array are really flowerign well, check out how much bud development they have put on in the last 6 days since those prior pics, they are flowering at least as well as they do under my 250w HPS, shitty phone pics, but you can see they are budding well: