Pruned a few weeks from chop for max yeild and now leaves are drooping

[Sinfuldreams]

What are the room temp range?
If it gets too cold the rez temp will move all over.
Heater is a good idea but keep an eye on the Rez Temps.
If your temps dropped into the 60's that might be enough.
I'm assuming your using a Rubbermade?

Any Pics of your set up?

Sin

 

[Sinfuldreams]

You can always make hash.
It won't be a total loss.
But it might be too late for them.....
From your last post it sounds like it could be a temp issue.
Let us know whats happening.

Sin

 

[zhugeliang]

Leaves are starting to crinkle up and I think this plant is stressing itself to death. I hate to say this but I am going to have to just chop her down and let her clones take her spot. Thanks for all the help guys. I will get a grow journal up in the indoor forums of her clones. I will definitely not be pruning anything from her this time.

Thanks again guys and girls.

Special shout out to Sin for major input. You live and you learn. Time for the next round.

 

[Guest]

the pruning isn't what did it, but like someone else said it could have been how you pruned it. Whenever I pruned plants I did it with siscors and I would leave a little bit of the leaf stem on the stem it came from. try pruning like this next time, pruning is better in veg, you can make your plant branch out faster.

 

[zhugeliang]

Yeah, something bad happened when it was pruned. When I chopped it down the stems were snapping if I pinched them. Also, when I was cutting down some of the stalks, they were hollow on the inside. I'm pretty sure that doesn't normally happen. It kind of looks like because it was so far into flower that it didn't spend any of it's energy to close up the holes and it kind of dried out from the inside out. I usually put honey on the ends when I prune to provide it extra sugar for recovery and to keep anything from going in there but I was lazy and didn't do it this time around.

Clones just went into flower chamber now though so hopefully I can redeem myself to the mother. Heh. Thanks again guys.

 

[Guest]

do you prune green healthy leaves? I only prune the leaves that look like theyre dying never prune green lush healthy fan leaves, only if more damaged than not. that's how they soak their energy up.

 

[Guest]

You can prune healthy leaves as long as you don't prune all of them, like I said it's better to prune in veg because you can get a plant to branch faster if you already have leaves forming at the nodes of the water leaf, when you do this the plant has no choice but to grow new leaves wich in turn grow new branches.

 

[Guest]

yeah i noticed any stressing out in flower will affect them a bunch more and you get those tiny little seeds in the calyx which makes it tastes yuck.

 

[Sinfuldreams]

Stems and branches can be hollow.
I think that is strain related perhaps even certin phenos as well.
I see hollow stems sometimes... but seems to be the strain.

See if someone else knows for sure, I don't.

Sin

 

[Jesusbuiltmygro]

It may already be too late

It may already be too late

You need to post back answers to the questions people are asking you like how are the roots and what is the temp of the rez water.

It looks like you burnt the roots somehow at this point. Very high nutes or WAY too much high concentration h202 can do that.

The problem is likely with the roots. Simply inspecting them and tell us what they look like/feel like is a good start.

This condition probably has NOTHING to do with pruning. Your plant was already sick when you prunned it and that may have made things worse, but I bet this was inevitable due to conditions before the prune.

The faster you respond with more details the sooner you will get quality help for your plants. Honestly you've already wasted precious time telling us how they are dying but not telling us what the roots look like or the water temps.

You should definately flush NOW and go to plain water. If the roots look brown and slimey you should add a LIGHT h202 solution and post back ASAP. Hygrozyme is a good treatment for bad root conditions, but once things are too far gone there is no reversing it.

All air stones clog, I assume you mean you have Bubble Wands in there since you talk about poking a hole in them. I prefer ceramic air stones as I think they put more oxygen in the water than a bubble wand. Every harvest you simply rinse in a strong h202 solution and scrub the stone down with something abrassive to clean out the ceramic pours. Bubble wands are probably the next best thing, but I just don't like them personally. I feel the larger bubbles caused by poking holes in the bubble wand create less dissolved oxygen. So one factor is how much oxygen you were putting into the water. How many bubble wands did you have and did you have a single pump or a dual pump or what. Hint: you can't have too much oxygen in there.

A newer idea has been to put those round air stones right in the net pots so that the roots grow completely around it. I've always thought that getting the airstone closer to the roots would be a good idea and that's a pretty elegant way to do it. Though, I would be VERY surprised if those airstones didn't clog faster being surrounded by roots. The roots will actually try to grow into the air stone in most cases, though maybe not in the case of a bubble wand.

However, the killer of most DWC is water temp. Add all the bubble wands you want, if you rez water temps are hovering around 80ish and your not flushing every week or two then your in constant danger of developing what will be a fatal case of root rot. Remember high temp water HOLDS less oxygen, so as the water temp increases the effectiveness of your bubble wands decrease.

Being hit in bloom with a root rot is a pretty bad scenario and if that's root rot then I'd guess your plants are dead. Once you let root rot go too long almost all the existing roots are dead or dying and cease to uptake nutrients and then your plants show signs of underwatering/overwatering but the trend is not easily reversable if at all. Normally you can recover if you detect the condition soon and it helps to be early on the growth stage. The larger the plant is when it's roots die the less chance you can save enough roots to keep the plant alive.

I'd still try like hell personally, but check those roots and see if they are brown/slimey or perhaps covered with a white fuz or a clear clime. Feel free to touch the roots to inspect them. In treating root rot it's common to do aggressive root pruning, which of course means your cut back all the dead roots.

Severe cases are commonly treated by taking the plants out and dipping the root directly in a dilluted h202 solution. It's better to do several low strength dips than it is to do stronger dips because h202 will burn the roots will killing the pythium or other bacteria causing this problem. Then of course replace all the water and add no nutes. Hygrozyme contains enzymes that will help eat away the dead roots, but if your plants are showing no signs of life then it's too late for hygrozyme IMO.

An h202 dip, then fresh water is a good start, if the roots are very brown and slimey then start cutting them away and hope there are some good ones left. I find something like putting the plant roots in the bathtub or sink helps the roots spread out and allowes me to prune or scrap off the nasty. When out of the water the roots have a tendancy to clump together more and are harder to see the individual strands of root.

I've won several battles against root rot, but never had it happen in bloom. Measure those rez temps they need to be well below 75 degrees. 68 is usually considered ideal though something like 72 may work. Most people also recommend hydroguard as a beneficial bacteria to help combat/deter root rot. keep in mind however hydrogard is not compatible with h202 which will destroy the beneficial and harmful bacteria.

Post back ASAP for more help