I'll share a look at my Tanning Booth, this was right after I set it up, before adding different bulbs. These are all GE 4100K's
High Output T5 bulbs. What is your total Lumen output of each fixture?
I use pll tubes in addition to LED. I try to keep the tubes within 2 inches or closer to the buds. You have your system dialed in I guess but I notice the lights are well away from the tops.
Also, the UVB cfl I use only puts out 150 uw at 10 inches away. That is the minimum to affect the cannabinoid profile. I have that light within 2 inches from nearest bud.
I do things way different than what you learn in forums.
I am very anal about mimicking Mother Nature so I do not use a tent, nothing is sealed, my grow area is wide open space in a 500 sq ft room (basement) I have never owned a carbon scrubber, my plants never stink. I pay attention to things that most don't consider, right now my ambient room temp is 77 and my canopy is at 90 my root zone is at 68 you can't do this in a sealed room or tent as the temp fluctuations are tighter. Not to mention natural Barometric Pressure which plants respond to and is altered in a sealed room with a intake/outtake scrubber setup. I use flat white paint not to reflect light but rather to reflect heat (mylar absorbs heat and holds it) Most growers fight heat I use it as a tool to get the plants in full vigor.
Times have changed, 40 years ago I used T12 grow lights and incandescents for heat. The T5's are much easier to dial in LOL
This is what my garden looks like this morning ,,,,,
and yeppers, sometimes the sats grow into the light LOL
they are Oracle High Bays (6 bulb, I have 3 of em) rated at 30,000 lumens, so with 3 I have 90,000 lumens but that is most likely reduced by the UVB bulbs (which don't have a lumen rating, but were designed to penetrate 3 feet of water)
I do things way different than what you learn in forums.
I am very anal about mimicking Mother Nature so I do not use a tent, nothing is sealed, my grow area is wide open space in a 500 sq ft room (basement) I have never owned a carbon scrubber, my plants never stink. I pay attention to things that most don't consider, right now my ambient room temp is 77 and my canopy is at 90 my root zone is at 68 you can't do this in a sealed room or tent as the temp fluctuations are tighter. Not to mention natural Barometric Pressure which plants respond to and is altered in a sealed room with a intake/outtake scrubber setup. I use flat white paint not to reflect light but rather to reflect heat (mylar absorbs heat and holds it) Most growers fight heat I use it as a tool to get the plants in full vigor.
Times have changed, 40 years ago I used T12 grow lights and incandescents for heat. The T5's are much easier to dial in LOL
This is what my garden looks like this morning ,,,,,
and yeppers, sometimes the sats grow into the light LOL
Riddleme, I've never said this before but why not start a thread? your approach is, interesting.
Riddleme, I like your contribution, but Mylar is one of the most effective reflectors of heat there is. It's used as thermal blankets for hypothermia. Would be kinda strange if it actually would absorb heat from the victim, wouldn't it?
Riddleme, you seem to be one of those people that beg to have their own way of doing and explaining things, and that's fine. But, please, don't talk nonsense in authorative manner, it's laughable Why Mylar is chosen for thermal blankets and why NASA invented it in the first place (to reflect heat) is on the first lines of Wikipedia. There's no point in arguing with that.not true at all, works as a thermal blanket because it absorbs heat from light, not from body mass...
Riddleme, you seem to be one of those people that beg to have their own way of doing and explaining things, and that's fine. But, please, don't talk nonsense in authorative manner, it's laughable Why Mylar is chosen for thermal blankets and why NASA invented it in the first place (to reflect heat) is on the first lines of Wikipedia. There's no point in arguing with that.
It's out of the scope of this thread but the reason Mylar is better than white paint in almost all (if not all) cases is exactly because effective emissivity you bring forth depends a lot on the surface, and you have to bring flat surface (no cavities on micro level) to paint with titanium dioxide in order to match Mylar (which has nicely flat reflecting surface). Finding such surfaces to paint your white paint on might be harder and more expensive than finding Mylar
Your topic about early amber is interesting though! Right now I have outdoors an Ace Haze x Thai in very early flowering and its trichomes are just starting to become of visible size yet most of them are already slightly amber. I saw this today and was wondering if the cold weather we have now is speeding the maturation of the trichomes.
Your topic about early amber is interesting though! Right now I have outdoors an Ace Haze x Thai in very early flowering and its trichomes are just starting to become of visible size yet most of them are already slightly amber. I saw this today and was wondering if the cold weather we have now is speeding the maturation of the trichomes.
Had a peek at your link....
I am currently working on a book that details my research and experiments. The chapter on early amber is finished and is posted here for free http://growhappyplants.com/look.html I contacted High Times and they decided not to print anything on it, the reason I was given was my pics are not hi res enough, really not sure what to think about that but it is what it is so I have been on this mission to spread it around, looking for threads where it is appropriate. I'm not pimpin the book, all the info is available online if one were to look, I have shared it for years on various forums like RIU and Jorges site plus I run my own forum (but it is invite only) my first book The Road to a Cure is there with each chapter a thread and discussion afterwards which worked out pretty good wrote it in 2011...
I guess, call me a comedian then lol, my stuff is based on experiments, never made a claim without a side by side In my garden flat white paint blows the doors off mylar and I would chose white poly over mylar even if we want to get into nitpicking pores.
there are also several post in several forums on the web where growers have changed from mylar to something else and reduced their heat by 10 to 15 degrees but what do I know?
Unless your side by side grow experiments where all the same clones from the same mother keeper plant then they are void in my opinion. In order for any conclusive evidence everything has to be exactly the same.
As far as mylar goes my 5f x 5f tents which all have 100% mylar everywhere never go above 80 degrees with only a single 6000 BTU AC which was only 120 bucks. I also only use 2 of the intake openings on each tent, they each have 4. The more intake you have the cooler it will be in your room/s. Mylar will achieve the greatest results yield wise, hands down. If one is having trouble with heat there are better ways to go about lowering heat then what one would lose due to the mylar lose.