CanadianHarvest
Member
i only use the tinyiest bit of it tho to feed the microbes on the Earth Worm Casting tea
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ProMix HP problems - Pictures!
- Thread starter CanadianHarvest
- Start date
BigBozat
Member
1. Stop diggin the hole... find/use a P-free fertilizer, at least for the time being.
2. Spray 1% foliar iron (and zinc). High phosphorous levels require additional zinc and iron treatments for plants to maintain their health.
FWIW, soils with 300ppm P will take up to five years to go back to acceptable levels... so, unless you want to take the risk of trying a mega flush - WHICH I AM NOT RECOMMENDING - there's not much you can do to reduce P levels... so supplementing via foliar in the meantime may be the only way to go.
IF it is a P excess...
BigBozat
Member
If you're trying to develop the microbes, why are you using hydro nutes?
Seems to me, you're sorta working at cross-purposes here...
Using synthetically chelated nutes is feeding the plants directly, not feeding the soil... and the synth nutes ain't good for the micro herd (maybe won't completely nuke the biota, as some fanatics might have ya believe, but still ain't good for 'em)...
Don't mean to be a dink... just don't understand your approach here.
CanadianHarvest
Member
to be honest i thought i could have both
like kind of a minimal organic but boost it by feeding chem ferts.
so what so i do. use these Advanced nutrients/ or swich to the General organics stuff. im growing in pro mx to remember....
Honestly why does promix exist. like this acid peat buffered with dolmite. like after reading. Promix seems to have no use at all.
like kind of a minimal organic but boost it by feeding chem ferts.
so what so i do. use these Advanced nutrients/ or swich to the General organics stuff. im growing in pro mx to remember....
Honestly why does promix exist. like this acid peat buffered with dolmite. like after reading. Promix seems to have no use at all.
BigBozat
Member
Ooof!.. mea culpa... so, after all this, I should have stared at the last pic longer...
As Bmac1 suggested way back when, the last pic does look like a bit of Cal def, too.
Which might account for some of the woody/hollow/dry stems?
In which case, maybe the thing to try first is just a good ol' CalMag dose (Botanicare's CalMag+ has a shot of iron in it, just in case, lol)? One thing at a time...
BigBozat
Member
Nah, Pro-Mix/peat is fine... you're just thinking about it in a hydro mindset, treating it (the soil/substrate) as if were just a medium for holding hydro nutes for the roots to absorb directly (and maybe something to keep the plants from falling over)...
You just have to complete the build-out of the soil...
Go look up Clackamas Cootz' soil mix for your next run...
The peat needs to be amended with an equal amount of aeration/drainage amendments (perlite, vermiculite, rice hulls, pumice, etc.) -and- an equal amount of compost/humus (i.e., 1 part peat + 1 part aeration + 1 part compost/humus... EWC counts as compost/humus)... you have way too little compost/EWC/spoil organic matter, and perhaps not enough aeration/drainage (from hints about how long it'd take to dry after a flush)... From there, it needs to be re-mineralized with rock dusts/fines, azomite, gypsum, etc., and fertilized with, e.g., various meals, bat/bird guanos, etc. (and some mycos + bene bacteria thrown in)... again, see Clackamas Cootz' recipe (various threads here @ ICM or at the BuildASoil.com website)...
Might wanna do some more studying up on organic methods b4 trying to do something as potentially complicated as trying to do a hybrid hydro-organic soil grow... I'm no purist, and I dabble with synth stuff (incl PGRs), but hydro vs org soil are really different things/different methods... it's hard enough getting one or the other method down; trying to do both (esp w/o really knowing what you're doing with one of 'em) is kinda a recipe for trouble...
BigBozat
Member
Forgot to [try to] answer your Q...
Not easy to answer your Q... since it's not my crop and I don't have to own the results, it'd be way too easy for me to just say switch (but that would be my anti-hydro bias & unfamiliarity with AN's nutes talking, not necessarily a carefully thought thru decision). Switching could further stress 'em...
Part of the problem may simply be not enough O in the soil (peat generally has an air-filled porosity on the order of only 10% [less if its compacting], which is why it usually needs a heavy amendment of aeration components (perlite, vermiculite, rice hulls, pumice, etc))... in which case, which nute line you use doesn't really matter.
Long story made short:
IDK which nute line up you should use.
I'm not sure it matters.
Me, I guess I'd continue using whatever I was using, and focus on remedying the def with something in addition to my regular nutes. If I was certain it was Cal, then I'd hit it with CalMag... tho that'll likely take longer to see results. If I was certain it was P excess causing lockouts of Fe (and/or others), then I'd do a foliar of chelated iron (and zinc, since high P tends to lockout both, and sometimes Mn, too)... which should show me result (yay or nay) within a couple days... if I don't see mitigation of the problem in a couple days, move on to CalMag...
The good news is that it's not really that bad, so if it's a def, then it's early def and you've got time to fix it.
Perpetual Nooch
Active member
My two cents:
Do you have hard water? I use plain ProMix HP in 3g pots. Sometimes I get the same damage to the leaves if I go several waterings without allowing some runoff. But, my plants seem to grow ok (I need to water every 3 days max)
I think your problem could be due to hard water and not allowing some runoff every watering. Too much salt buildup in the rootzone is causing multiple problems.
Do you have hard water? I use plain ProMix HP in 3g pots. Sometimes I get the same damage to the leaves if I go several waterings without allowing some runoff. But, my plants seem to grow ok (I need to water every 3 days max)
I think your problem could be due to hard water and not allowing some runoff every watering. Too much salt buildup in the rootzone is causing multiple problems.
Seriously though, you are over complicating things. You have a medium with no nutes and you have only provided nutes 3 times to what looks like plants that are maybe a couple months old? No need to split hairs at this stage, feed them the 3 part and judge from there.
CanadianHarvest
Member
CanadianHarvest
Member
Perpetual Nooch
Active member
I'm not seeing what you're seeing. They look fine to me. New growth comes out looking pale green, if that's what you're referring to, and it's normal.
Whats your high and low temperature? Also how often are you watering? do you have a ppm pen and checked the runoff ppm? Ive used hp promix for a very long time. Your plants look and sound like there over watered creating less roots and taking up less nutes resulting in slow growth. Also new growth looks right but fan leafs look like there getting just alittle to hot from high temps or light being to close maybe.
CanadianHarvest
Member
We FIgured it out!!!!!!!!!!! PH IS WAY TO LOW. i wasnt letting the water sit in the pots long enough before testing the run off. like i would just keep dumping untill i saw runoff. test it. and it was always the same as my IN ph. NOW><..... this time i watered soaked the pot. but no run off. came back in 20 mins and watered till run off. GUESS WHAT??????? ph in was 7............. ph out..............5 ... dun dun dun!!!!!! 
Sooo how do i go about fixing this? do i flush with just plain h20 or do i add like a 1/4 strength?
I also have a fishtank.... because i have so many rocks and coral in there.... ph is like 8.
good aged water for a flush from the fish tank?
or 7.8 ph out of the tap. Thing is i will not be able to age it. ( not enough bottles) so it will have some clorine in it. Im growing with salt based ferts so microbs are a huge deal.
Thanks for all your help guys!!!!
Sooo how do i go about fixing this? do i flush with just plain h20 or do i add like a 1/4 strength?
I also have a fishtank.... because i have so many rocks and coral in there.... ph is like 8.
good aged water for a flush from the fish tank?
or 7.8 ph out of the tap. Thing is i will not be able to age it. ( not enough bottles) so it will have some clorine in it. Im growing with salt based ferts so microbs are a huge deal.
Thanks for all your help guys!!!!
BigBozat
Member
We FIgured it out!!!!!!!!!!! PH IS WAY TO LOW. i wasnt letting the water sit in the pots long enough before testing the run off. like i would just keep dumping untill i saw runoff. test it. and it was always the same as my IN ph. NOW><..... this time i watered soaked the pot. but no run off. came back in 20 mins and watered till run off. GUESS WHAT??????? ph in was 7............. ph out..............5 ... dun dun dun!!!!!!
Sooo how do i go about fixing this? do i flush with just plain h20 or do i add like a 1/4 strength?
I also have a fishtank.... because i have so many rocks and coral in there.... ph is like 8.
good aged water for a flush from the fish tank?
or 7.8 ph out of the tap. Thing is i will not be able to age it. ( not enough bottles) so it will have some clorine in it. Im growing with salt based ferts so microbs are a huge deal.
Thanks for all your help guys!!!!
1 teaspoon of dol lime per gal of soil (no more)
should raise pH 1 pt
thegambler
Active member
I was the guy who told you your pH was too low.....a correct answer.
I'll finish off the diagnosis and offer a solution.......I use 3 3/4 cup of dolomite lime per 3.8 cu ft bale- that's ALOT of lime. It takes time to break down, it's not ALL available immediately. Hydrated lime is the opposite, it's readily available. Plant your mix with the lime to give it time to break down before flowering.
Also adding plenty of perlite is important to stop the soil from compacting......
I'll finish off the diagnosis and offer a solution.......I use 3 3/4 cup of dolomite lime per 3.8 cu ft bale- that's ALOT of lime. It takes time to break down, it's not ALL available immediately. Hydrated lime is the opposite, it's readily available. Plant your mix with the lime to give it time to break down before flowering.
Also adding plenty of perlite is important to stop the soil from compacting......
CanadianHarvest
Member
Hey guys.... So Im reviving this post... Plants are starting to look a little funky. they are on day 2 of week 2 of flower, and i want to get this nipped in the but before it gets to bad.
3 gal pots with Promix HP 1 tbl spoon of dolmite lime per container
advanced nutes grow micro bloom @ 2ML/L grow 4ML/L micro and 5ML/L bloom.
They were hit with bud bloom to at the flip.
1 tsb of blackstrap molassase
FEED-WATER-WATER But sometimes i replace a water. with a worm casting tea + humic acids. Black diamond from Gerneral Organics
Under 2 400watt lights. 1 hps 1 mh bare bulb no reflector. ( to minimize heat)
temps 77-79
RH % 65%
So what do you guys see? I do have a specific problem in mind. but i just know somethings not right.
Thanks so much for lending your time to my garden.
Respect and love from Canadian Harvest
3 gal pots with Promix HP 1 tbl spoon of dolmite lime per container
advanced nutes grow micro bloom @ 2ML/L grow 4ML/L micro and 5ML/L bloom.
They were hit with bud bloom to at the flip.
1 tsb of blackstrap molassase
FEED-WATER-WATER But sometimes i replace a water. with a worm casting tea + humic acids. Black diamond from Gerneral Organics
Under 2 400watt lights. 1 hps 1 mh bare bulb no reflector. ( to minimize heat)
temps 77-79
RH % 65%
So what do you guys see? I do have a specific problem in mind. but i just know somethings not right.
Thanks so much for lending your time to my garden.
Respect and love from Canadian Harvest
thegambler
Active member
It looks like it's a heat issue from your lamps........and you didn't add enough lime.
B
bLoWsMokE
You might just have too high a humidity. Those look like what outdoor grows look like in northern climates....... a lighter green longer sort of lankyish leaves that just don't look strong enough.
The humidity might be too high.
Are you refreshing the air in the room? It really doesn't look like a root ball problem the more I think about it....... it's almost as if the plants are choking.
Something is causing the stomata to stay closed stopping the leaves from breathing and transpiring properly I'd wager.
The humidity might be too high.
Are you refreshing the air in the room? It really doesn't look like a root ball problem the more I think about it....... it's almost as if the plants are choking.
Something is causing the stomata to stay closed stopping the leaves from breathing and transpiring properly I'd wager.
B
bLoWsMokE
I'd almost bet money fresh air a few times every hour being circulated would help this problem. Aggressively.
Lower humidity.... I almost wanna say as much as you can.... get it down between 35 and 45 (unless you see any sign of mold, look good before you do this as if you only have one infection spot you can easily cut it out.... but lowering the humidity without cutting the infection out can spread the spores faster.... powdery mildew
Lower humidity.... I almost wanna say as much as you can.... get it down between 35 and 45 (unless you see any sign of mold, look good before you do this as if you only have one infection spot you can easily cut it out.... but lowering the humidity without cutting the infection out can spread the spores faster.... powdery mildew
