Preservation of an Afghani Landrace from 25 year old seeds

[TheHatman]

Unreal work you have done brotha. Much appreciation for your efforts. Havent smoked real afghan for probably 15 years now. Like you said, everything is hybrid. Amazing stuff.

Yea thanx a lot for praising my work, bro! Glad you´re here.

A real afghani has a very special effect, most ppl today don´t know what a good afghanica is..

Jumping on board, love your work.

Thank you! Nice that you are on board..

Mahlzeit!...

Mahlzeit! Welcome! Are u from germany?


By the way..
Later in the evening I´ll upload the 2nd chapter

Greets,
hatman

 

[TheHatman]

2nd Chapter: There´s life in the old dog, yet! - The Germination Process
[Last Update: 12-11-2019]



HIGH!
Ooh! .. Another week passed! Currently I see a meters of white screen, but I´m sure in a few minutes it is full of letters (it´s magic!!).
But I don´t force myself to trying to be brief, because my head would start then a rebellion and then you had to read twice as much.
But can you imagine anything better than an evening full of reading another captivating chapter of the Afghan-Love-Story?
(Hey, no is the right answer my friend… ).

The Germination .. actually you don´t need to write a long novel about it, because mother nature has a great plan: The plant throws
away a seed onto the ground, it germinates, the tree grows, a guy comes by, smells it and spontaneously he rolls it up to a fat joint.

After he has forbidden the plant (was he then drunken or what!?) everything became complicated:
>> No wild plants anymore >> The seed doesn´t fall to ground anymore, but is stored by man for 25 years in a fridge until it´s
almost dead.. Even if a long storage has advantages for breeders (access to lost traits, stabilization of thus, nostalgic reasons) there is
THE ONE end boss: The time! (by the way I don´t mean the daily newspaper..)

This chapter is about the germination of 25 year old, afghan seeds, that was just before the end of their existence. You´ll read about
the following topics:

I. Initial Conditions
II. Constitutions of the Seeds
III. The Germination Process

The photo shows a little part of the afghan seeds.


I. INITIAL CONDITIONS
The seeds are very old! Though these cannabis seniors were stored cold (ca. 4°C / 39°F) and dry, but they have an expiration date - it
comes the day, when they can´t germinate no more. I hadn´t frozen them, because at that time I was of the opinion that water
crystals would kill the cells of the embryo and thus the ability to germinate. But today I know that it is better to store them at -25°C
/ -13°F, so they can last up to 100 years.

The original germination rate in 1992 was ca. 99%. And it still was about 99% in 2012. Then in 2015 I did another germ test at an age
of 23 years and it has fallen to a rate of 80%. 2 years later (2017) it reduced to less then only 1%. I was shocked (I luckily still had afghani weed
to handling this shock :lol: )

I learnt from it: I have to do a germ test every year and later every half of a year. Only then I have a chance to save genetics. Better:
never wait so long until it´ts too late for doing a preserving run.
But germinating that´s not all. Beyond sprouting seedlings must begin to grow for surviving, they must build a good root system,

they must show desirable traits AND they mustn´t be a real hermaphrodite. The hermie-point is more problematic, because the
slow rooting and growth means stress für the plant, and stress favors flower anomalies. Landrace strains grown indoors often have
the tendency to build out a few bananas. That´s not a drama, when they aren´t real hermaphrodites with heap of pollen sacks all over
the plant. The inclination for bananas could be killed by breeding out later, when you do IBL runs with that genetics.

But remember that males you take for breeding never show only one pistil. It´s too dangerous that hermaphrodites will be
strengthened in following generations. You see, the conditions have been more then sensitive. This report fortunately is a retrospetive
look about the preservation. So the following spoiler isn´t surprising that the project is well done - rather it's reassuring to know that

An area of 1,5 square meters was was more than (over)sufficient for the project. The rest of the room was used for 2 plants of a stable
afghani line of mine and further F1 crosses (this and that) for testing. But I´ll give you only little or no information the report isn´t
about them.

These photos from Afghanis in 1997 are screenshots from old VHS videos I digitized..




II. CONSTITUTION OF THE SEEDS

Visible Traits
The afghani seeds have a very sturdy and solid shell. That´s the reason that they show their tails 1-2 days later then others. But for
that they have a reliable germination rate around 95-99%, if they´re well stored.
The shells are dark brown color and are heavily patternd: they are tiger-ed to cougar-ed (can I say it so in english?) =) Compared to
seeds from other strains they´re more bulbous and often bigger. These are good conditions for a long germinating ability, cause there
is more space for a stored nutrient depot (look at photo 1: seeds).


Germination Rate
Usually cannabis retains during 5-6 years a very well germination rate. Later seeds need really cold and especially dry storage
conditions! After 15-20 years the situation begins to become precarious. You should do periodical (every year) germ tests.

In my case…
in 1994 the germination rate was near 100%.
After 20 years: still near 100%
After 23 years: a rate around 80%. From this time it reduced very fast.
After 24 years the germination rate was only 3% - I tried to do a preservation run, but unfortunately it had to be canceled. =(
One year later, after ca 25 years: the rate reduced less than 1% (0,5% excluding stillbirths). My teeth were chattering during this run..

When I have a breeding goal, I usually pop very much germinable seeds (often hundreds of beans), because of the radical selection I
do at IBL runs. This time, nature has taken my job and it radically reduced the number of seeds (lost of 99,5%). That´s why I took
every seed that somehow managed to sprout. My ultimate goals (firm, resinous buds with beautiful branching e.g.) couldn´t be
considered in this run. So here it was all about the conservation of the strain! But the genepool there´s a lot going on in it. In the

coming generations (if not already in this run) will be present many desired traits.
But one trait can already be stated: If the trait of a very long germinating ability is genetically determined, the nature has created
good conditions for fixing this trait!! =)


III. THE GERMINATION PROCESS

1. Method
Every grower does it on a different way to pop the seeds. That´s what makes it exciting, otherwise we wouldn´t need tens of
thousands of reports at IC from which we can learn something new. But simply stuffing the seeds into soil would have been too
dangerous for me. Look, we´re talking about hundreds of half-dead beans. This seeds needed an intense observation during the
germination process.

! Almost dead seeds tend to rot fast!

So, the following classical method order was used: Rubbing >> Flooding >> paper towel >> Soil
And because of the very bad germination rate I popped almost all seeds I had: All in with 900 seeds - with hope for the jackpot! I kept
a small part of 100 seeds.. you never know.


1.1 Rubbing
After taking the seeds out of the fridge, the seeds have to get used to the room temperature (ca. 8h). After that you should rub off the
patterned skin from the seeds. The beans have a naturally protective layer around it, that reduces the permeability of moisture.

Thats good for the storage but for the germination practice this skin should be removed.

One is the Matchbox Method.
The seeds are filled in the matchbox which was covered with sandpaper inside. Then you have to shake it for ca 20-30 seconds
until the skin is off. This method will severely scratch the shells. When you have medium old seed then this is your technique
because moisture can get better into the seed so that its sprouts more reliable. But with such as old seeds like mine that take more
longer to germ, this method could have negative effects: Because bacteria nest in the rough shell and it often starts to mold and the
last thing that´s needed is an infection of some rubbish. So I used another simple method:

The Rub Yourself Method
Another method is to scrub the patterned skin by hand. You can take a kitchen towel or a paper towel for that. Put some seed on it
(maybe 20) and scrub them with a little bit of pressure. Not too strong, only that the cover carefully rubs off.

1. A little box (a matchbox e.g.) that is covered with sandpaper from inside. You put the seeds in there then you can shake it for 20-30 seconds.
2. You do it per hand by rubbing them with towels.


1.2 Seed Flooding
Many growers prefer this step and others think that is unnecessary: It´s about soaking seeds in a cup of room tempered water. For that
you´ll throw the seeds (they should be adapted to the room temperature) into a cup or glass of handwarm water. With an
infrared thermometers you can aim exactly 25°C / 77°F. This method has the advantage that seeds faster soak and, when there is
life in them, sink to the bottom of the cup.

! For security it is to say, that you should never bathe them any longer then 12 hours. There are opinions that a too long bath could
flushed out the important nutrients for the germination. but I couldn´t determine such an effect yet. I always had a better
germination rates with fresh and old seeds.

! Another tip: Take only water for that. Don´t take germ aids from fertilizer companies and never take camomile tea! I did an
experiment that shows that the best rate is with water. Other mixtures promoted mold.

An afghan seed just bevor it does the titanic


1.3 Paper Towel Method
After flooding I use for the further germination process the well-known paper towel method, because I can better observe the
seedlings development. For that I put the seeds into several layers of wet (not too wet, ok?) paper towels. So, I´ve the best control of
the progress and don´t need to keep an eye over hundreds of pots. Besides, I can influence the temperature that I keep at 25°C / 77°F.
Around that temperature the afghani seeds had ever the best germinating process in the past decades. Every strain has a
individual germ temperature, so I have the best results around 23°C / 73°F when I germ my oldschool skunk lines.

When you germ about 900 seeds, you should take enough seed trays for that (you can also take conventional plates), because the
seeds need a minimum distance of 1-2cm from each other. Closer to each promotes mold epidemics. One is not immune to that if you
germ old seeds, but with enough distance and a frequent control, you can handle it well.


1.4 Seed Cracking
It´s long ago that a neighbour who was a botanist told me, that it is botanist practice to crack the shells by hand of hardly germinating
fruits for increasing the germination rate. This method isn´t 100% safe, but it increases the germination rate. For cracking it by hand
you take the seed between thumb and forefinger. You have to press then more and more to crack. Better you have a naturally strong
cornea then it hurts less after countless times of pressing

An alternative is the cracking between yout teeth or you use a screwable pliers, but that´s a little more challenging. This should be
sufficiently practiced because seeds often crushes or it causes an internal damage that possibly kills the seed. If it goes wrong, that´s
it. When all is done, you have to wait and controll. The germination process takes more time for vintage seeds, that´s clear. At best you
request a vacation and you tell your social contacts that you do a long road trip, because the germ job eats as much time as like a
wolverine.


1.5 Biochemical Aids: Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) & Gibberellic Acid (GA3)
Several aids by a bio-chemistry set could be great supporters for germination of older seeds. For a better permeability of the shell,
you can give the seeds for 30-60 minutes into a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution (H2O2). It softens the shell, moisture get in. You
can choose this method as an alternative to the Matchbox Method (see above) - it´s the same but a little less moldy perhaps.

Gibberellic acid (GA3) is a phytohormone naturally occuring in the cannabisplant and it´s seeds. In addition to it´s influence on growth
and theflowering processes, the hormone stimulates the germination process in the embryo. The bathing of the seeds in a 0.1% GA3
solution (dissolve 0.1gr of GA3 in 5 milliliters isopropanol alcohol and give it into 95 milliliters H2O) can help old seeds to germinate.
But be carefull, because experiments with hormones can causes hard growth damages. But better a sick seedling than a dead bean,
right?


2. From the Living and the Walking Dead: Afghani´ Popping
In the last part I want to show you a few results! Of 900 seeds only 15 seeds made it and from that 15 further 8 didn´t grow. My work
was like a job in a mortuary. :O Every only half-dead seed was greeted with a jump into the air. Every seed that showed a sign of
real life was potted in potting soil. I write „real“ because there were uncountable zombi seedlings that simulate growth but in reality they
were just a inflated bubble of water with a rubbish culture.

Most seeds had more rot then life in it, so that there were daily many seeds that get spin legs: Mildew threads spread out like spin
legs that were looking after more victims to infect. Such seeds you have to remove immediately!! You should have a look after them for
5 or better 10 times the day.

1. A few seeds with enough space to each other. A transparent root is a bad sign.
2. Unfortunatelly I have no photos of the mold, but here you can see one of these zombies.
3. Yeah: 25 year old germinating afghanica seeds. They has a rosy future!! Almost biblically a new breeding line will be created on the basis of this lady. She is
called „A4“ and she´s the female lead in this project ;-)

Some seeds germinated after 14 day and then suddenly very fast, while others crack their shell after 1 day but died then quickly. So
my tip is: don´t give up fast! My girlfriend was completely ignored during this time (but she didn´t mind me ).


THANX!
So far as the germination of my Oldschool Afghanica seeds. But the little tails have to grow and that´s a huge act for these beans in this
high age. >> But the next chapter is about the beginning of growth of the half-dead Afghanis. And I think the 3rd chapter will be a
thriller in three separate parts.

I hope my thread is interesting and exciting enough for you. Sure, I´m a bit more precice in some parts, but for the one or the other of
you it could be helpful to unterstand. So, I´m looking forward to your comments my friends. You can write everything you want:
praise and critism or experiences of your own. And forgive me the one or other mistake I made, remember that I´m lerning english
while I write this chapter


Greets and: Save the Landrace Strains!!!
The Hatman (from Grow-them-City)





————————————————————————
>> Continue with 3rd Chapter: The Leap into the Life (coming soon)
<< Back to 1st Chapter: An Afghani Landrace
<<< Back to Overview

 

[gorilla ganja]

Another great chapter in the story. Lots of good detail.

The only thing I would disagree with is soaking the seeds for only 12hrs. Maybe with really old seeds, you don't want to take a chance.
But I soak all my seeds until they crack open and sprout a tail. As soon as they do, 24-48 hrs for most seeds, I go straight into dirt or Cocco. I've done the paper towel method many times as well, it works, but why the extra step?
If a seed won't crack open after 48 hrs I just double plant it in a pot. As you said, don't give up. Sometimes they come up days or even weeks later.

Peace GG

 

[CodyPomeray]

One day I hope to work a line as much as you have. Its a damn privilege to read this, thanks for posting.

For floating, I switched from 24 hours to around 12-18. I like to do 6-12 hours in a light H202/water solution to kill anything on the outside of the seed, then i swap water to RO water.

I had a few seeds go bad over the years doing longer than 24 hour soaks.

Recently finally scuffed some seeds with 600 grit sandpaper, just kinda rolled them around back and fourth for 5 min before soaking. I believe this helped a bit, I like that matchbox method.

Thanks again for posting all this brotha. More people need to be working strains properly before everything is just one giant cross of itself.

 

[TheHatman]

Thank you guys for feedback. That motivates me to continue writing

The only thing I would disagree with is soaking the seeds for only 12hrs.

There are opinions that a too long bath could flushed out the important nutrients for the germination. but I couldn´t determine such an effect yet.

I also hadn´t any bad experiences with soaking for longer as 12hrs, but I heard from friends, they has problems. I just wanted to mention it

For floating, I switched from 24 hours to around 12-18

Yes, 6-12h, I usually do that too



Thank you two for your answers and the support

 

[TheHatman]

Hello Friends,

for your entertainment in between to the next chapter I give you a foto from two pressed afghani leaves from
two genotypes of this strain. Both have 11 fingered leaves. Its not a trait that only sativas have. It´s time
to break the indica-sativa-dogma anyway.

Aren´t they beautiful?

I´ll portion the chapters into several snacks, so I´ll keep it all a bit shorter I think.
3rd chapter is about how the plants began their growth. And as you can imagine,
it wasn´t an unproblematic start. I´ll try to post the next chapter this weekend.

Have a nice day my friends.

 

[CodyPomeray]

Of the two posted, which pheno is your favorite? Just to build a baseline

 

[Pumpkin]

Nice thread. Thanks

 

[Im'One]

Another great chapter in the story. Lots of good detail.

The only thing I would disagree with is soaking the seeds for only 12hrs. Maybe with really old seeds, you don't want to take a chance.
But I soak all my seeds until they crack open and sprout a tail. As soon as they do, 24-48 hrs for most seeds, I go straight into dirt or Cocco. I've done the paper towel method many times as well, it works, but why the extra step?
If a seed won't crack open after 48 hrs I just double plant it in a pot. As you said, don't give up. Sometimes they come up days or even weeks later.

Peace GG

I recently tried to pop some Indian Landrace seeds and had no luck. They were freebies to i wasn't too concerned. After trying the paper towel method I dropped them in some soil and waited a week. Nothing. So I recycled the soil. Now a month later I had one come up in a pot with my Romulan grapefruit and another come up in the soil nxt to a cactus.

 

[TheHatman]

Of the two posted, which pheno is your favorite? Just to build a baseline

Oh that´s hard to say, because I like both (I posted another pic on the 3rd page; do u hav seen it?). Certainly the WLD leaves are
typical concept of an afghani strain and of course it´s really beautiful. But the narrower leaves are nice too. Therefore my plan is
to create more inbred lines than only one.

By the way, there are two or three phenotypes more in that strain (typical for a landrace), I´ll show it later in the report.

 

[JustSumTomatoes]

Those leaves look really interesting! I've never seen any of my Indicas do that with leaflets/fingers before. Mine typically show 7 or 9.

 

[Im'One]

Those leaves look really interesting! I've never seen any of my Indicas do that with leaflets/fingers before. Mine typically show 7 or 9.

I have a dancehall plant that's started making 11 leaflets.

 

[Dropped Cat]

subbed

 

[TheHatman]

subbed

Nice thread. Thanks

Thanx!! High and welcome to my thread friends!!

Those leaves look really interesting! I've never seen any of my Indicas do that with leaflets/fingers before. Mine typically show 7 or 9.

There are always a few plants that have 11 leaflets in a population, but most of them have only 7 to 9 fingers. On the one hand it
depends on the genotpye, but also on the environmental conditions (the better the more leaflets) and the lenghts of the growth-phase.

Greets,
hatman

 

[TheHatman]

I have a dancehall plant that's started making 11 leaflets.

Nice, do you have a pic from it on IC? Is dancehall also an "indica" strain?


Greets..

 

[AgentPothead]

Not many people have epic first threads, but here we are.

 

[CodyPomeray]

Its his 40th account to get it right I joke this guy is just doing it real from day 1, he cant help it. Love this so much.

 

[Im'One]

Nice, do you have a pic from it on IC? Is dancehall also an "indica" strain?


Greets..

I will try to post one soon, Dancehall is a CBD strain from Mexican and Afghan genetics. It is an ancestor to many cbd strains. I have three plants going all three have the single cola type of pheno, only one has the eleven leaflets and is shorter than the other two plants.

 

[TheHatman]

Not many people have epic first threads, but here we are.

Many thanks my friend!!

Its his 40th account to get it right

I joke this guy is just doing it real from day 1, he cant help it. Love this so much.

haha... of course, what do you think? Truth is: I´am all users of IC :lol: .. Thx bro!

I will try to post one soon, Dancehall is a CBD strain from Mexican and Afghan genetics. It is an ancestor to many cbd strains. I have three plants going all three have the single cola type of pheno, only one has the eleven leaflets and is shorter than the other two plants.

kool.. I´m looking forward to your pics from it


Otherwise:
I try to write the next chapter in these days. It´s about a few plants and their struggle for beginning of growth. Stay tuned!

The Hatman

 

[Kalbhairav]

Beginnings of a great adventure