TnTLabs
Active member
im aware of copper being used in this way, as it is key to activate specific enzymes...
this is not my point, and no where do i say i am against foliar spraying!!
as i myself spray, sometimes even up to 2 weeks before harvest..
don´t try and twist things now, if you don´t phrase your statements correctly thats not my fault...
your posts are miss leading.. thats all
this is not my point, and no where do i say i am against foliar spraying!!
as i myself spray, sometimes even up to 2 weeks before harvest..
don´t try and twist things now, if you don´t phrase your statements correctly thats not my fault...
your posts are miss leading.. thats all
Copper can be used against fungi, but it is also destroying the good fungi you need.For us copper is a micro-nutrient, works together with zinc, but larger amount of copper is poisonous.That is the reason that the inside layer of copper cooking pans must be tinned.
What i find in the coa's is that copper is not high, but more zinc is high.
What i find in the coa's is that copper is not high, but more zinc is high.
So you spray this mixture?
I really want to see the cannabis you grow pass heavy metal testing...... I am a professional grower, it is my job and in our operation we only use UVC light because the cannabis is thoroughly tested before going onto the market. SPraying anything in flowering will cause contamination. I feel sorry for the people that buy your weed.
So you got your plants tested, any luck you'll share the results of your tests? Did you only look out for NPK and macro nutrients or also pesticide/fongicide and HM?We make sure there is more Ca than K going in to the plant. Excess Ca is stored as Ca Oxalate in the plant and actually makes for a very smooth smoke.
It seems also you're using PAA against PM? Do you know that PAA is a known carcinogen, linked to lung cancer? Any traces of that stuff in your flower?
About Cu, here it's a big thing (copper sulfate generally). They use it on grapes. So much often that it's no more that useful(they now have to switch products regularly because of fungi resistance), and it polluted the soil badly, to the point sheeps eating the grass around the grape vine did die of Cu poisoning...because most of the Cu sprayed just remain in the soil where it accumulates over time...
TnTLabs
Active member
yes, i do... one needs to fight PM in veg before plants flower.. and yeah healthy plants will less likely be attacked...
this is for veg and till buds set:
this is for my 7 L sprayer.. so a 2 gallon mix
15ml horticultural oil (can be canola oil for ex.)
15ml neem oil
30ml potassium soap
1.5gr citric acid
3ml potassium silicate
2ml essential oil (pepperment, cinnamon or my fav turpentine!!)
ph should be around 7 this way
potassium silicate as you probably well know will help protect against PM
but this mix is for PM and pests, works great!
but needs to be repeated every 3 days for best results if one has spider mites for example...
but i cant praise predator mites enough!!
M
Mountain Kine
There's no arsenic cadmium lead or mercury in what I am spraying on the plants so how would they fail a heavy. metal test by getting chelated metals sprayed on them?
Well I can guarantee that in Europe you would fail the heavy metal testing.... What you are doing is dangerous...you are slowly poisoning other and yourself(if you dare to smoke your own contaminated crap). It is not even about the fact that u use copper, but the fact that your spray something on a flowering plant. Metals are one of the worst things even when chelated but anything sprayed on a flowering plant is NOT done by professionals.
I know that in the USA it is allowed as long as you mention what has been used. But here there is ZERO tolerance, and for good reason! Why would you use fungicides and pesticides when there are working and safe alternatives? Well probably profit as those other methods are more expensive or more time consuming.
Don't forget cannabis does not have a skin like apples where you can just wash off what has been sprayed onto it, it is simply absorbed into the bud and will never come out.....
I solve my bug problems with Chrysopa Carnea, nematodes and Baccilus thuringiensis, my PM problems are solved by shining light on the plants. Lots of work but SAFE cannabis with an optimal taste.
I know that in the USA it is allowed as long as you mention what has been used. But here there is ZERO tolerance, and for good reason! Why would you use fungicides and pesticides when there are working and safe alternatives? Well probably profit as those other methods are more expensive or more time consuming.
Don't forget cannabis does not have a skin like apples where you can just wash off what has been sprayed onto it, it is simply absorbed into the bud and will never come out.....
I solve my bug problems with Chrysopa Carnea, nematodes and Baccilus thuringiensis, my PM problems are solved by shining light on the plants. Lots of work but SAFE cannabis with an optimal taste.
M
Mountain Kine
More sensationalism and infantile logic there
Common Name: PEROXYACETIC ACID
CAS Number: 79-21-0
DOT Number: UN 3105
UN 3107
UN 3109
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
HAZARD SUMMARY
* Peroxyacetic Acid can affect you when breathed in.
* Peroxyacetic Acid is a HIGHLY CORROSIVE
CHEMICAL and contact can severely irritate and burn the
skin and eyes leading to eye damage.
* Breathing Peroxyacetic Acid can irritate the nose and
throat.
* Breathing Peroxyacetic Acid can irritate the lungs causing
coughing and/or shortness of breath. Higher exposures
can cause a build-up of fluid in the lungs (pulmonary
edema), a medical emergency, with severe shortness of
breath.
* High or repeated exposure may affect the liver and
kidneys.
* Peroxyacetic Acid is a HIGHLY REACTIVE
CHEMICAL and a DANGEROUS EXPLOSION
HAZARD.
Peroxyacetic Acid is not compatible with ALKALIES;
HEAVY METALS; METAL SALTS; STRONG ACIDS
(such as HYDROCHLORIC, SULFURIC and NITRIC);
and STRONG BASES (such as SODIUM HYDROXIDE
and POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE)
If Peroxyacetic Acid is spilled or leaked, take the following
steps:
* Evacuate persons not wearing protective equipment from
area of spill or leak until clean-up is complete.
* Remove all ignition sources.
* Absorb liquids in vermiculite, dry sand, earth, or a similar
material and deposit in sealed containers.
* Ventilate and wash area after clean-up is complete.
* Keep Peroxyacetic Acid out of a confined space, such as a
sewer, because of the possibility of an explosion, unless the
sewer is designed to prevent the build-up of explosive
concentrations.
* It may be necessary to contain and dispose of Peroxyacetic
Acid as a HAZARDOUS WASTE. Contact your state
Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) or your
regional office of the federal Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) for specific recommendations.
* If employees are required to clean-up spills, they must be
properly trained and equipped. OSHA 1910.120(q) may be
applicable.
=============================================
FOR LARGE SPILLS AND FIRES immediately call your fire
department. You can request emergency information from the
following:
CHEMTREC: (800) 424-9300
NJDEP HOTLINE: 1-877-WARN-DEP
=============================================
HANDLING AND STORAGE (See page 3)
FIRST AID
For POISON INFORMATION call 1-800-222-1222
Eye Contact
* Immediately flush with large amounts of water. Continue
without stopping for at least 30 minutes, occasionally
lifting upper and lower lids. Seek medical attention
immediately.
Skin Contact
* Quickly remove contaminated clothing. Immediately wash
area with large amounts of water. Seek medical attention.
Breathing
* Remove the person from exposure.
* Begin rescue breathing (using universal precautions) if
breathing has stopped and CPR if heart action has stopped.
* Transfer promptly to a medical facility.
* Medical observation is recommended for 24 to 48 hours
after breathing overexposure, as pulmonary edema may be
delayed.
https://nj.gov/health/eoh/rtkweb/documents/fs/1482.pdf
G `day MK
And say good bye to your eyes , lungs if not careful and life it it explodes ...
Thanks for sharin
EB .
I don't know where I said that I am spraying on sulfates but alright.
I am using metals complexed by an organic acid that I will keep under my hat. I also use a glycine chelate of all of those elements as well.
I spray them up until the last week of flower.
Definitely never let the greenhouse get to 100 degrees with plants in it. Between runs for sterilization for sure.
Any test done for zinc, copper content in the dried buds.Where is the literature that it is safe to spray chelated metals at flowering Cannabis till one week before harvest?
What's the brand btw you're using?
TnTLabs
Active member
i wanted to add some points so anyone can copy this and not run into problems:
1. never spray with lights on!, either dimm the lights to 250W, use other lighting than HPS or hang the lights further away so the plants are not getting direct light... very important!
the oil will otherwise burn the leafs!
2. this mix is a strong mix, i wouldnt add more oils, this is a recipe for when you have a infestation..
for a "soft" maintenance version, for regular sprays :
10ml horticultural oil (can be canola oil for ex.)
10ml neem oil
20ml potassium soap
+ the other things stated above
3. even this soft version might burn clones,
so if you want to use it as a clone dip, mix it 5-6 hrs prior to dipping, and that way the leaves dont get hurt as much ... dont ask me why.. its just something i have noticed...
4. i noticed its better to mix only the amount you need,
dont store this mix.. after 24hrs the oil will have separated and you will have bits of neem gunk floating in the sprayer...
this leves a oily, grimey gunk coating the inside of the sprayer etc so best to just use it all up or mix less
peace
M
Mountain Kine
Yes the raw PAA is extremely dangerous and must be handled with correct PPE. We mix a 15% concentrate at a 1:2500 ratio.
Check out how many industries PAA is used as a CIP agent. It's about the safest thing you can use.
This thread is a great example of why people should grow their own.
M
Mountain Kine
PAA is strong hydrogen peroxide mixed with vinegar
Y’all are straight up tripping
Do you drive a car? Eat any kind of packaged food? LOL
Yes. But I bike alot when weather permits. And yes, but very very little. That shit is poison.
TnTLabs
Active member
just out of interest i looked up PAA as i had never heard of it before..
Peracetic Acid
Peracetic, or peroxyacetic acid, is characterized by a very rapid action against all microorganisms. A special advantage of peracetic acid is its lack of harmful decomposition products (i.e., acetic acid, water, oxygen, hydrogen peroxide); it enhances removal of organic material155 and leaves no residue. It remains effective in the presence of organic matter and is sporicidal even at low temperatures. Peracetic acid can corrode copper, brass, bronze, plain steel, and galvanized iron, but these effects can be reduced by additives and pH modifications. The advantages, disadvantages, and characteristics of peracetic acid are listed in Table 301-2.
Peracetic acid will inactivate gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, fungi, and yeasts in less than 5 minutes at less than 100 ppm. In the presence of organic matter, 200 to 500 ppm is required. For viruses the dosage range is wide (12 to 2250 ppm), with poliovirus inactivated in yeast extract in 15 minutes with 1500 to 2250 ppm.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/peracetic-acid
_______________________
so it looks like MK is right about it not being toxic...
i would need to do some more research though before using it,
but i think what got this convo so heated up was MK using chelated micro upto 2 weeks before harvest...
so like mexcurandero420 mentioned, if you guys have done any lab tests on your product we would like to see it...
and as i mentioned at the beginning show me some facts and im all ears, waiting to learn something....
no point in bashing each other... we are here to learn, not?
Peracetic Acid
Peracetic, or peroxyacetic acid, is characterized by a very rapid action against all microorganisms. A special advantage of peracetic acid is its lack of harmful decomposition products (i.e., acetic acid, water, oxygen, hydrogen peroxide); it enhances removal of organic material155 and leaves no residue. It remains effective in the presence of organic matter and is sporicidal even at low temperatures. Peracetic acid can corrode copper, brass, bronze, plain steel, and galvanized iron, but these effects can be reduced by additives and pH modifications. The advantages, disadvantages, and characteristics of peracetic acid are listed in Table 301-2.
Peracetic acid will inactivate gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, fungi, and yeasts in less than 5 minutes at less than 100 ppm. In the presence of organic matter, 200 to 500 ppm is required. For viruses the dosage range is wide (12 to 2250 ppm), with poliovirus inactivated in yeast extract in 15 minutes with 1500 to 2250 ppm.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/peracetic-acid
_______________________
so it looks like MK is right about it not being toxic...
i would need to do some more research though before using it,
but i think what got this convo so heated up was MK using chelated micro upto 2 weeks before harvest...
so like mexcurandero420 mentioned, if you guys have done any lab tests on your product we would like to see it...
and as i mentioned at the beginning show me some facts and im all ears, waiting to learn something....
no point in bashing each other... we are here to learn, not?
