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Not only are the components from AH top quality, their service is unbelievable. After getting my kits (I had a tracking number within hours of ordering), I emailed them a question about future kit options. This was done late at night, and they called me the next morning after looking up my phone number from my order (I hadn't included it in my email, my question wasn't urgent and was really just a matter of curiosity). I've never seen this level of service. Great folks.
Leflll, how much is the WHorse option going to cost? One thing to note - the AH kits use Miro, no? Miro doesn't reflect UV, apparently. Not the end of the world, but far from my preference.
ScrubNinja had no idea about the whole Miro thing. I can get the Workhorse 8 120v at 1000bulbs, 4 2g11 sockets and 4 light clips at cool lights for about $80.00 shipped. That’s about half the money that ah supply charges I would just have to get some wire. I’m a little unclear about whether I can hook all 4 55watt bulbs to the workhorse 8 120v. The ballast they sell at cool lights only does two 55watt bulbs. 1000bulbs has workhorse 8 120v and 220 volt which should I get? Sorry about so many questions but I really want to get this right. Thanks for all you help
The Workhorse 8 will only run three of the 55 watt lamps without voiding the warranty, even though it is rated at 220 watts. This leaves one pair of wires unused and this supposedly limits the current available (and the lumen output of the lamps) compared to the Workhorse 5 that comes in the AH kit. I don't know how Fulham is limiting the current like this, but that is what I found when doing my research. While the Miro material doesn't reflect the UV, it is only the reflected UV that is impacted. Not the best, but options are pretty limited.
As far as diy vs kit, I would diy it personally - wouldn't encourage paying top dollar for something not so ideal - Pay top dollar if it's the certified best, or if you're just lazy or rushed. Agreed with Rives though, that there are only so many options, and it is only the reflected uv at issue. There'll still be some, just less. I do look at it as a deal breaker though.
Any reflector is better than no reflector. Reflectors for PLL are pretty easy to make though. See that thread I linked. I made some for my t-8s, very simple. You can buy sheets of dimpled reflector aluminium at hardware stores here.
Been lurking for a good while now. You've done some awesome grows with these scrub and have kept the threads around it alive and interesting. I was wondering for flower, do you switch to all warm tubes or do you keep some cooler ones for a range of spectrum, sorry if this has been answered, have been quite thorough in my reading.
Same wattage, different amperage, no gain/loss with either one. If you live in the states go with the 120v, if your standard outlet uses 220v then get the 220v.
Long term, I would like to try building a reflector like the design by D.I.trY in the link that Scrub posted. I need to buy a small sheet metal brake first, though. Grizzly has some pretty interesting looking ones that aren't too unreasonable (shipping might be a different issue - even small ones are pretty heavy). By the way, Scrub - thanks for the Delta tip in your PC fan writeup. I've ordered a couple of the FFB0812SHE fans that look like they should work well for cooling my light fixture.
Not looking too good at moment for me though, but It's my first grow so It's to be expected. If you feel like helping out or just having a peak my grow is in my sig.
Just ordering 2x40w 2700k and 1x40w 3000k osram dulux Ls (to experiment with swapping bulbs) and a philips 2x40w ballast for my ~2sqft cab. Only really doing it to get better light spread and to lower my overall wattage - they're replacing 4x30w 2700k cfls (i'm still using a couple of 4000/6500k cfls) and giving me more lumens... the cab isn't long enough on any one side to use the 55w lamps unfortunately. hopefully they've got enough penetration..