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PLL Club. (if you don't know, now you know)

hey guys and gals,

here are the pictures, that is a hand-built wooden hood, with the inside painted white. works well. i have a removable lexan shield if it gets too hot on the tops later on. looking great so far. these pics are a couple days old, since, they have doubled in size, amazing. i'll get some pics of the screen as soon as i get it in place and start training. thats when the fun begins.
 

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T

texsativa

Fluorescent lighting with properly working, properly shielded ballasts should not create interference. There may be a tiny field around the ballast, but nothing that would intefere on an RF level at any distance from the unit. I would check your wiring, particularly the ballast's earth. Failing that, the ballast itself... is it an electronic (HF) ballast or an old choke type ballast? have heard mags hum, create slight interference, etc when they are on the way out.

That's my opinion anyway. think how common fluoro lights are - they're everywhere, and in very large numbers too, such as offices etc.

That being said, there is always a tiny field even with a cable - Ever looked at an old CRT monitors VGA cable? it has a plastic block about an inch long at each end. Inside this plastic block is a tube of black-ish type material, which is a "ferrite supressor" - it eliminates the field which is naturally caused by power running along a cable.. they're used in computers to eliminate crosstalk between power cables and signal cables.

Get a couple of these.. radio shack/RS type places should have ferrite supressors - one on each end of every cable about 3-4 inches from the end.. this will eliminate any interference from the cables, the ballast should have its own shielding.

Will test this when my lamps come in a couple of weeks - I can't test free to air tv signals but i can test FM/SW/MW/LW/AM/DAB.. i'll try to get another tv in here, one with an aerial socket that works (don't watch tv). My radio is part of an AV receiver that is literally inches above where my tubes will be, the wire aerials close by.. etc

Updates? You ever test this?
 
so what is the color spectrums we're supposed to use? i understand the daylight/soft white using CFL twisty bulbs, but i haven't seen talk about that in here, and in a lot of the pictures there are both blue and red sides of the spectrum. are we just supposed to mix spectrums and hope for the best?

also, wouldn't you have to buy more sockets to run the different K level bulbs?
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
so what is the color spectrums we're supposed to use? i understand the daylight/soft white using CFL twisty bulbs, but i haven't seen talk about that in here, and in a lot of the pictures there are both blue and red sides of the spectrum. are we just supposed to mix spectrums and hope for the best?

also, wouldn't you have to buy more sockets to run the different K level bulbs?
Ya might want to read up on CFL's in the micro forum.

To answer the question.... PL-L's range from 03/Actinic and 10,000K to 2700K. 03/Actinic and 10,000K are BLUE.... 2700K is RED... the in betweens are in between. :D

ANY PL-L lamp will work just fine for veg through flower. The plants grow differently, depending on the type of light they get.... change your grow style to fit your lamp... or change your lamp. :D

Stay Safe! :tree:
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
so what is the color spectrums we're supposed to use? i understand the daylight/soft white using CFL twisty bulbs, but i haven't seen talk about that in here, and in a lot of the pictures there are both blue and red sides of the spectrum. are we just supposed to mix spectrums and hope for the best?

also, wouldn't you have to buy more sockets to run the different K level bulbs?

No... If you want to run a different kelvin, you take out the bulb and put a different one in.

About the kelvins, in addition to what Hydro said, it's no real difference between cfl and pll, just do whatever you do with CFLs, or get experimental with the wide selection of pll bulbs based on results people are getting, I guess. I really like the 10k results.

 
No... If you want to run a different kelvin, you take out the bulb and put a different one in.

About the kelvins, in addition to what Hydro said, it's no real difference between cfl and pll, just do whatever you do with CFLs, or get experimental with the wide selection of pll bulbs based on results people are getting, I guess. I really like the 10k results.


the only reason i asked that is because on a few of the sockets I saw 5600k or 3000k or whatever...i didn't want to blow up my cab
 

Garuda

Member
Veteran
You may most certainly come in! is that Coco with auto drip? details details please :D
:D Then details is what you get:
- main cab 100cmx80cmx40cm
- 2x55W PL-L, 6400K veg./3000K flower
- 225 m³/min vent / carbon filter combination, throttled for stealth & silence
- 23W CFL in smaller cab (60cmx50cmx40cm) for males/vegging/clones whatever
- 4x 6,5l pots filled with Biobizz Lightmix (a soil mixture sold here)
- auto-drip system called "Tropf Blumat", works with a ceramic sensor, running with Canna Terra Vega/Flores fertilizers supported by Unique root/groth/flowering stimulants

I did a growreport over at the german growforum hanfburg (http://forum.hanfburg.de/fhb/showthread.php?t=274306 (beginning), https://forum.hanfburg.de/fhb/showthread.php?t=274306&page=5 (last grow) ), at least for some beautiful pics :) but the next run will be documented here as well :)

Greetings,
Garuda.
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
the only reason i asked that is because on a few of the sockets I saw 5600k or 3000k or whatever...i didn't want to blow up my cab


the K is in reference to the color of the light, not its power rating.

2700k is red(ish) spectrum light, good for flowering
6500k is blue(ish) spectrum light, good for vegging

Somewhere in the middle is everything else, somewhat good for everything.

Mixing spectrums is often thought to be a good idea.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Anyone have any experience with the 80w PL-Ls?

They have a low color temp but wondering if the increased wattage will make up for it. Maybe just for flowering?

Unless they've changed things... you're going to get more heat per lumen, once you go past 55w. If heat isn't an issue for you, or you have an application that requires it, it'll grow plants just fine. :D

Stay Safe! :tree: :blowbubbles:
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Daffy420 rocked 2x80w a while back.

55w is 87lpw (lumens per watt)
80w is 75lpw

The bulb you linked to has less lumens than standard 80w bulbs so it's 67.5lpw. A 23w CFL has around 69.5lpw. That's what it's all about, efficiency, and as Hydro pointed out, if it's not putting out lumens, it's putting out heat.
 
P

~pHaNtOm~

quick question..how long are these 55w bulbs?
my veg/clone cab is only 23-1/4" wide

thanks
 

615

Member
Similar question here:
My case dimensions are 23''x20''x8'' and last time I studied PLL's I found I'm a couple inches short. Is there anything worth using under 20" or should I just appreciate what the CFL's are doing for me?
 

VAtransplant

Active member
My 55w pl-l are 20.7" from tip to base, so probably 21" to be safe. I don't run end caps, just alligator clips to the pins of lamps (damn sockets weren't available on 1000bulbs, didn't wanna have to order from other sites to get this up and running). I think end caps are only maybe a half inch deep, so phantom you should be fine running these bulbs with or without end caps.

Thank goodness I swapped out for pl-l's in veg instead of standard t8 floro tubes.. pretty much doubled my lumens going from 4 24" tubes to 2 55w power compacts. Plants filling in a lot better.
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran


615, use a 36w. 80.5 lumens per watt is going to make you wonder if you ever had your CFLs plugged in. :)

I would urge using proper wiring terminals over alligator clips. They're very cheap and many times more reliable.

 
P

~pHaNtOm~

My 55w pl-l are 20.7" from tip to base, so probably 21" to be safe. I don't run end caps, just alligator clips to the pins of lamps (damn sockets weren't available on 1000bulbs, didn't wanna have to order from other sites to get this up and running). I think end caps are only maybe a half inch deep, so phantom you should be fine running these bulbs with or without end caps.

thanks for the reply.
now im just wondering if i want 2 x 55w or 4 x 55w in my 1.75 sq/ft cab..? heat will not be an issue being i have vent fan etc. but i was just thinking if i should go with 60 or 125w per sq/ft? is 125w per sq/ft overkill with PLL? :smokeit:
 
thanks for the reply.
now im just wondering if i want 2 x 55w or 4 x 55w in my 1.75 sq/ft cab..? heat will not be an issue being i have vent fan etc. but i was just thinking if i should go with 60 or 125w per sq/ft? is 125w per sq/ft overkill with PLL? :smokeit:

nope, i have 3 x 55w pll in about 2.25 square feet, if you can handle the heat (which is very little) i use a 90 cfm comp can pushing through a diy scrubber and my temps are 76-79 F.

the workhorse 7 or 8 only run 3 55w at full bore. but if you downsize the lights i think it handles like 6, 36 watt pll's allowing more diversity of spectrum. i use a 3000 a 3500 and a 4100, might switch the 4100 to a 3000 when my stretch is done, to get some more bloom colors in there.
 
P

~pHaNtOm~

nope, i have 3 x 55w pll in about 2.25 square feet, if you can handle the heat (which is very little) i use a 90 cfm comp can pushing through a diy scrubber and my temps are 76-79 F.

the workhorse 7 or 8 only run 3 55w at full bore. but if you downsize the lights i think it handles like 6, 36 watt pll's allowing more diversity of spectrum. i use a 3000 a 3500 and a 4100, might switch the 4100 to a 3000 when my stretch is done, to get some more bloom colors in there.
thAnks
each unit comes with a reflector + 2x55w bulbs+ballast.
so i will keep the ballast outside the cab and mount the 4x55w inside the top of the cab.
a 4"x8" fresh filter & an s&p fan will have this this cooler and smell free with ease from what im thinking. :dance013:
 

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