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- Thread starter OsWiZzLe
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Blackvelvet
Member
Like I mentioned 2 weeks ago, your top growth is affected rather than bottom leaves. This is a micronutrient deficiency. I think it may be copper deficiency from your using 1700 ppms and a high ph. Nitrogen is binding the copper in compounds in the lower leaves and not allowing it to move up. Also, too much phosphorus may be causing better nitrogen utilization and binding up of the copper.OsWiZzLe said:
Leaching only changes the rootzone...it does not instantly change the plant.
What is the form of copper does canna use? Look on the label. Is it copper sulfate or copper chelate like edta. This makes a huge difference because copper is very reactive especially at higher ph's...it becomes unavailable.
Solution: spray once with a copper fungicide like bordeaux mixture.
If you feel like you got a magnesium problem, spray once with 1 teaspoon per quart of water epsom salts. Spray both sides of the leaves.
Don't spray while lights are on to avoid shattering a bulb and causing a fire or hurting you. After spraying you can turn the lights on.
One last thought...
cal mag plus does contain copper and it may be chelated. 2ml per gallon is very weak and only adds 6 ppm magnesium and 17 ppm calcium.
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Blackvelvet
Member
pieceofmyheart said:
I am a little uncertain about your problem because I don't have the ppms of the micronutrients, your not checking the runoff ph properly, your ppm meter was malfunctioning, you didn't check runoff ppms, etc...
no blackvelvet never grew a mj plant and gives out neg rep when you call him the poser that he is.
Anyone can cut and paste from their college chemistry textbook....then troll the cannabis infirmary looking for some validation in his life. Try growing some pot. Does this sound like the advice of someone who is sure of the problem and solution? Or are you into "trying things"?
WTF is this? If you "feel like"? If you don't know, don't give advice.
I sure don't want some joker telling me to put on fungicide and battery acid on my plants.....
Anyone can cut and paste from their college chemistry textbook....then troll the cannabis infirmary looking for some validation in his life. Try growing some pot. Does this sound like the advice of someone who is sure of the problem and solution? Or are you into "trying things"?
WTF is this? If you "feel like"? If you don't know, don't give advice.
I sure don't want some joker telling me to put on fungicide and battery acid on my plants.....
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G
Guest
Blackvelvet said:
It is definately not a copper problem. If it was a copper problem the freshest tips will begin to die first. Commonly appears to be a case of overfertilization. This man has a Mg and maybe a slight K deficiency other than that the plants appear to be perfectly fine. Hit em with a 1/2 dose of Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus and they'll be looking good in about a week. When using R/O water it is important to replace the Ca and Mg supply that is typically found in standard water. Many nutrient companies know that Ca and Mg are plentiful typically in water sources and do not add as much.
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tokinafaty is right. That's the difference between a grower and a poser. But hey just think, you could have covered your prize plants with fuckin fungicide!
Plus, looking back, your ph is too low. Your water/nutes should be 6.8 - 7.0 and so should your runoff at the bottom of the pots. PH is logarithmic, not linear. This means that a ph change of 1 (ie. 6.8 to 5.8) is 10 times more acidic. Going the other way, 8.0 is 10 times more alkaline than 7.0. PH changes must be done gradually as to not shock the plant. 5.8 is more a ph value for hydro growing, if I am not mistaken, although I don't do hydro, so I am hardly an expert there.
If your runoff is measuring low, adjust the nute solution higher to compensate. Guanos, fishmeal nutes and natural bio action in your medium will all lower the ph. Dolomite lime mixed into your coco (follow instructions on box) 2 weeks before use will help buffer ph, and provide calcium and magnesium. This form of lime does need time to break down before it is effective. Your plants may still require CalMag as some strains are hogs for these minerals.
Keep your ph at 7.0 and you should have no nute lock problems, then you can gauge if there is an actual deficiency from not adding enough, not from nute lock.
Good luck!
Here is some info on the fungicide you were offered, of course without any instruction of safety warnings...typical: (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html)
Hi Yield Bordeaux mixture
ease of storage - store only in stock solutions or dry, not mixed
effectiveness - highly effective, deposit highly durable
environmental impact - longer lasting, more active; stains surfaces
phytotoxicity - high pH, salty deposit, more phytotoxic
compatibility - not compatible with most pesticides
ease of preparation - takes longer and requires more knowledge to prepare; safety equipment required
corrosiveness - corrosive spray mixture
Phytotoxicity is one you may want to pay attention to, it means the action of the plant taking up toxins from the soil and storing them in it's leaves and stems,where you get to then smoke and inhale. This is why I grow organic and will never use miracle gro or other chem nutes.
This shit is not good stuff and this is a perfect example of the reckless and potentially dangerous advice given by someone without a clue. Someone here to feed his own ego and not here to help you out.
Plus, looking back, your ph is too low. Your water/nutes should be 6.8 - 7.0 and so should your runoff at the bottom of the pots. PH is logarithmic, not linear. This means that a ph change of 1 (ie. 6.8 to 5.8) is 10 times more acidic. Going the other way, 8.0 is 10 times more alkaline than 7.0. PH changes must be done gradually as to not shock the plant. 5.8 is more a ph value for hydro growing, if I am not mistaken, although I don't do hydro, so I am hardly an expert there.
If your runoff is measuring low, adjust the nute solution higher to compensate. Guanos, fishmeal nutes and natural bio action in your medium will all lower the ph. Dolomite lime mixed into your coco (follow instructions on box) 2 weeks before use will help buffer ph, and provide calcium and magnesium. This form of lime does need time to break down before it is effective. Your plants may still require CalMag as some strains are hogs for these minerals.
Keep your ph at 7.0 and you should have no nute lock problems, then you can gauge if there is an actual deficiency from not adding enough, not from nute lock.
Good luck!
Here is some info on the fungicide you were offered, of course without any instruction of safety warnings...typical: (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html)
Hi Yield Bordeaux mixture
ease of storage - store only in stock solutions or dry, not mixed
effectiveness - highly effective, deposit highly durable
environmental impact - longer lasting, more active; stains surfaces
phytotoxicity - high pH, salty deposit, more phytotoxic
compatibility - not compatible with most pesticides
ease of preparation - takes longer and requires more knowledge to prepare; safety equipment required
corrosiveness - corrosive spray mixture
Phytotoxicity is one you may want to pay attention to, it means the action of the plant taking up toxins from the soil and storing them in it's leaves and stems,where you get to then smoke and inhale. This is why I grow organic and will never use miracle gro or other chem nutes.
This shit is not good stuff and this is a perfect example of the reckless and potentially dangerous advice given by someone without a clue. Someone here to feed his own ego and not here to help you out.
