Please show the homie some love

[OsWiZzLe]

Should I start over and toss these girls

my plants are fuckedddddddddddd up.....

day 23 flowering...Sensi Star.....Canna Coco Nutes at 900 PPM...Co2 is 1500 PPM..Temps are in the mid 80's....lights are aircooled and 6-8 inches from the tops....i have flushed these things like crazy for 2 days str8....with RO water and a flushing agent....

are these girls being underfed or having Cal Mag issues?

 

[pastor420]

Looks like lack of N to me, so I would vote for underfed.

 

[OsWiZzLe]

pastor420 thanks for the input dude....does anyone else agree?

 

[pastor420]

To me they are looking like when you get to the final weeks of flowering and she is consuming her own Nitrogen.

 

[OsWiZzLe]

should i bump up the nutes? from 900 to ???

 

[ommid]

Swizzle maaan....those plants look like they're starving....hopefully some people will shed some light on this bro

 

[HeadyPete]

No, I am sorry but that is not N def and do not bump up the nutes!

N def starts with lower leaves and works up the plant, and the yellowing is even, not like that with the green veins.

It mostly looks like a severe mag def to me:

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element


Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.


Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.


Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.




Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.



Picture one shows a mid grade magnesium deficiency.

This thread is excellent for all your sick plant needs. http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 It is stickied at the top of the cannabis infirmary forum.

Flushing won't bring them back, but is a good first move.

First, what is the ph? If that is out, then you have lockup and adding more will not help. If your ph is good (you are running hydro, correct?), then you need to add more. Epsom salts are good for fast mag, but that is all they provide. If you have calcium issues then CalMag is a good product. MJ is pretty hungry for those two minerals, some strains more than others.

If you can turn things around quick then your crop may not be lost. The yield may suffer, but you should still get some good bud. The leaves are not important to the end product, but help the plant make energy for budding.

 

[HeadyPete]

O yeah, save your CO2 until you have healthy plants. You are wasting it right now. Temps are kinda high, as well.

What is the wattage and type of lighting?

 

[pastor420]

I stand corrected. You're absolutely right about the N deficiency starting with the lower leaves first. Listen to Pete!

 

[Guest]

What is the wattage of the air cooled lamp(s) these ladies are 6-8 inches from?

 

[OsWiZzLe]

Pete whats up man..thanks for the info....PH going in is 5.8...1800 watts...3 600's...
I have been feeding Cal-Mag at 2 ml per gallon the last 3 waterings since the flush...should i bump up to 5ml per gallon as recommended by the manufacture? I foliar feed with Revive and it didnt do shit....temps I am screwed on...i cant get it any cooler....doesnt the Co2 at the very least help with the higher temps? i'm fucked on how close the lights are...they're being grown in a Hydrohut Deluxe....i accidently vegged for way too long

 

[Guest]

Are you foliar feeding when the lights are on?

 

[HeadyPete]

Hey, CO2 does work with higher temps, plants metabolism rises and works at high temp and with more light. You seem all good in those departments for running CO2, just right now I think you are wasting it.

Soil or hydro?

Stay with the 2 mg (always use half manufacturer recommended dose of anything until you know the effects). That old growth won't repair, monitor new growth. Since you are flowering, monitor the calyx growth, make sure it looks normal, and make sure the leaves don't get worse. I think you can get a crop.

 

[HeadyPete]

Funny pastor, I think you have a N def!

Check your thread, I just posted.

Also, take that blackvelvet dude with a grain of salt. I don't think he knows how to grow mj and just gives general vague advice he learned from textbooks at school. Notice there are no specific questions about your setup, just an immediate solution...I am always weary of people like that. I could be wrong but check his posts and pix - no mj pix.

I would have pm'd that last bit to you but you can't receive or send them till you get more posts.

 

[Guest]

Blackvelvet is Sproutco.

 

[OsWiZzLe]

I'm growing in Coco..this shit is hectic! can u still yield dank and some weight if all ur leaves take a shit..but the buds are still growing? i foliar feed 30-45 min b4 the lights come on....how long does it take for plants that are this bad looking to starting showing some signs of life again

 

[Guest]

You shouldn't allow any of the moisture to remain on the leaves when the lights are on. This intensifies the Light Burn factor. Try spraying them down at the end of the day/beginning of the night cycle. Concentrate on the Undersides of the leaves as this is where they can draw in the moisture/nutes. I'm not a huge fan of foliar feeding ... it never happens in a natural setting. Yes ... plants will put out what they can under adverse conditions. I wouldn't scrap this grow just yet.

 

[HeadyPete]

The damaged leaves will not recover but the bud (calyxes )themselves use the light to grow, like a leaf and will continue budding until mature. Just make sure the bud keeps growing and filling in.

WWM is right about Sproutco. Same crap with the urea and the battery acid...tool.

he's over in pastor420's thread with the same crap. no ???s, just a magic solution...sad.

 

[OsWiZzLe]

well fellaz....i think i found out one of my major issues..why my leaves look like they were deep fried Texas style....Temps were hitten and staying at 90-91!!! i tweaked everything around and no the temps are like 75-79...hopefully this will flip em back...

Do you guys think the buds could still swell up to their potential or close to it?

 

[inflorescence]

The buds need energy from the leaves to swell up.
Your severe mag deficiency means hardly any chlorophyll for those fan leaves to produce energy (sugars, etc.) so your buds are gonna be stunted.