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Please I need help my plants!

Blackvelvet

Member
Sure Dutch nutrient 2 part will have micronutrients. Its all about ph. High ph will make 5 micronutrients and phosphorus become less available to the plants. Promix ph should be 5.6 to 6.2 (Mynamestitch suggests 5.5 to 6.3) Its soilless not soil. Weakly feed every watering. Adjust the ph of the fert water after adding everything to about 5.8 to 6.0 Make sure you get alot of runoff with each watering and this will prevent excess salt buildup.

I think we can leave out the cannabis infirmary drama. Its all about science and smoking joints. :smoker:
 
Green Tucan said:
ok so its no problem at all to do another leech? even tho i leeched last week (with wrong phed water) Im scared of over watering
I had similar concerns the first time I performed this procedure. If the soil-type mix and container drains well, your medium should become dry in a short time, such as a day or two. With a 3 gal container I used more than 1 gal of leeching solution. Someone at the garden store recommended a reasonable guideline: a quart of water for every gallon of medium. YMMV. Then I let it dry out. Then I did it again, asap, but meeting the criteria of drying out first. I repeated this process on nearly every watering because my assumption was that my soil had a build up of bad stuff which needed to be rinsed out with a pH adjusted solution. HTH.
 
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Green Tucan

Member
ok the soil was still a lil moist from my last watering but o well. I just flushed them again with 2 x the volume of the soil with my water which i corrected down to 5.9 although after doing that my soil run off was 6.6 and am I supposed to keep flushing until it gets into the correct numbers or does it take a couple days for soiless ph to change? Well actually I only flushed 1 plant with ph corrected water as all my other plants are still moist and I think it will be better to wait unto the medium is dry to flush them all... so I flushed one as a test plant.....or does it really matter? Should I just go ahead and flush em again even tho the soil is still moist? Im sorry im paranoid. (p.s since i started flowering yesterday about how much longer until they start growing buds?)
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
HuffAndPuff said:
Green Tucan-

From what I can tell from the photos, this looks like a clear cut case of a Zinc deficiency. The bottom two photos show fert-burn. I am guessing that you have created a nutrient lockout situation for your plants, possibly brought on by an imbalanced pH, or more likely, due to over fertilizing.

Zinc deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance which may accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.

Zinc can also become locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available.

I would leech the soil out, water using at least 3x the volume of soil. ie: 1 gallon of soil gets flushed with 3 gallons of water. When you have done this, water with a very mild nutrient solution. I am assuming that the reason the plants are wilting is from some combination of over/under watering and from the nute issues.

Hope this helps,
Stay Safe,
HuffAndPuff

[EDIT: Heady Pete, ya beat me to it! I figure 'tween the two of us, he's got a place to start]

I agree with this 100% I seen the pics and I looked at them and I am like ok this looks like zinc before I even read anything;

So this time I agree with ya huff :D

Also listen to heady cause he knows what he is talking about too;

avoid black like we all avoid the pigs.
 

Green Tucan

Member
you really think i could have over fertilized? I never went above 1/2 strength nutrients their whole life... i started out at 1/4 str. But can some one please answer my ph question. How do i fix the ph problem in my soil? I just flushed one with water that was a ph value of 5.9 with water x2 the soil volume (because I didnt want to do x3 as I flushed last week as well but with my 7.2 ph water and their whole life they been getting water in the 7.2 - 7.6 range) and the run off at the end was 6.6 after I flushed one of my plants today with the 5.9 water and I am just wondering how come my run off ph did not go into the acceptable soilless range? or is a run off of 6.6 fine for soiless as long as the water/nutrient solution goes in at the correct ph? or do I have to keep watering with my 5.9 water from now on and over time will the ph problem correct it self? Im really confused :( :bashhead: :1help: :smoke:
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Are you using a soiless medium? What soil mixture are you using? lowering soil ph is harder than raising the ph.

There are things you can use to lower it........ but I need to know what soil mixture you are using.
 

Green Tucan

Member
im using Pro-Mix HP (soiless mix)..... it has perlite ,vermiculite,peat moss, dolomitric lime, wetting agents in it also .... Could high soil ph be due to me watering with water of a ph of 7.2 their whole life? Keep in mind if your going to reccomend adding anything to soil or anything... it is impossible to buy like dolomite lime and that type of stuff like that because the gardening stores in my area dont really deserve to be called gardening stores lets just put it that way ... So its not possible to fix the soilless medium ph by flushing? :bashhead:
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
no flushing will just wash out the nutrients in there; if you want to get your soil acidic add some peat moss to it; promix has peat moss already I think; ya just checked it does.

You can go to a hardware store or somewhere that carries garden supplies and get some peat moss and add it to your mixture.. even if you have to scatter it on top of the soil at least when you water it will help the ph..... just add a little and water. First I would take a piece of it and water it and get the ph value before adding it to your pot; that way you will know how strong it is cause different kinds of peat has different levels of acidicness to it.
 

Green Tucan

Member
What if I flush with an extremely acidic water? I think i read that some were like if you wanted to increase ph if ur ph is 5 and u want 6.2 u flush with 8... but I dunno if its just a fake dream memory or what.... but ok i gonna go looks for some peat to do that. But do you guys have any idea how i can have high ph? I thought most ppl with this soil suffer from low ph.
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
GT, the lime is what is causing you difficulties lowering your ph. Lime is alkaline.

The reasons for using lime are:

1. To balance acidic soil mixes (anything with peat moss in it) and acidic ferts (guanos and fish meals)

2. To provide calcium and magnesium. This can be accomplished other ways.

If you don't use the lime you will find your ph lower, but lose the benefits of cal and mag. It's a balancing act. Adjust ph gradually. Plants do not like ph swings and you will see damage as a result.

Here is some info I posted on another thread about ph:
HeadyPete said:
Sativa, exactly, the lower your nute ph, the lower your soil comes down. You want to do this gradually as plants do not like big ph swings all at once.

Adjust some plain water to neutral ph7. Flush a pot or pots, save the runoff and measure. This will tell you where your soil ph is at. Now you can calculate how low (or high) to bring your nutes to balance your soil to 6.6ish. If your soil is 7.4, you need to bring your nutes to 6 to balance at 6.7. Understand? There are 7 ph points between 6.7 and 7.4 and the same between 6.0 and 6.7. Balance. This all depends on your natural soil ph. Lower is better than higher.

"Buffering" is the action of lime in stabilizing ph. Actually, because it is high, it counteracts the acidic ferts like guanos, fishmeals and such as well as acidic peat moss. If your ferts or soil aren't very acidic then the lime could raise the ph to much, resulting in a lot of ph down to counteract. I use coco and it is close to neutral, so I need less lime (or none) compared to if I used peat moss in my soil. I like lime cuz it provides cal and mag.

That AN ph down is phosphoric acid, pretty strong stuff. This will also feed P for blooming. I don't consider this organic, but it is not a chem either. Excess phos acid can lockout calcium. I use fulvic acid for down, not quite as strong, but loaded with natural stimulants and growth enhancers that go way beyond just adjusting ph. Fulvic Acid improves the plants ability to utilize existing ferts. This means bigger buds.

That mottling is most likely beginning of cal def from lockout. Fix your ph and that should be fine. If ph is good and there are still spots getting worse than you are not feeding enough calcium.

I use the BioBizz line of organics, derived from molasses, and not as acidic as PowerBlendPro or some of the others. Not sure about EJ. I love it.

Biobizz dry premix in the cocosoil with perlite, worm casting, kelp and lime. Biobizz Grow, Bloom and TopMax, along with CalMax and Fulvic as ph down. I have buds the size of porn star cock and still 4-6 weeks to go! I think I will ditch the perlite next run. Coco is supposed to be so good at aeration, it doesn't need it and it's one less raised eyebrow at the Home Depot carrying 4 or more bags of the stuff. Less is more.
 
G

Guest

About zink deficiency....

Different type plants will react somewhat differently to a deficiency than others....

But for zink def... one of the common ways plants respond is by an appearance they are stunted....

This is caused by reduced internodal elongation....

the nodes get stacked uptogether... this is called rosetting....

I have seen this about 3 times before.....

So I know thats one of the common reactions of cannabis to zink def....

I dont see that here.....

==================


Zinc deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance which may accompany reduction of leaf size and a SHORTENING between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.


The pictures suggest to me a potassium shortage....

so I might be curious about sources for that.....


There are also pics that show a leaf with a clear case of Mg def.....

Together if you do have a mg and a K def that migh indicate a ph thats too low.... both elements are reduced in a low ph environment......
 
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Green Tucan

Member
So i should water my plants with a ph of 7? compared to 5.9? (remember im in soiless) and i should adjust my nutrient solutions/water to 7 also? or every thing at 5.9? So basically did I measure my soil ph incorrectly if I flushed with a water of 5.9? do I need 7 to measure ph? Besides trying to measure ph what water ph do I need to water with on my regualr watering/feeding basis? Also if I have to make my water more acidic to fix my problem... do I just lower it 7 points at a time each watering and then once the soil ph is correct I water with phed water at 5.9 or 7 on my standard basis? Sorry for being so stupid. But please keep the help comming.. im still a lil lost on what to do exactly...
 
G

Guest

Personally I think you are too acidic.....

IMO your ph should be between 6.0 and 6.3 and never fall under 6.0

nor over 6.5

If you didnt use dolomitic lime last time you should try using 2 tblspoons / gallon.....in your transplant medium...


and just see what happens.....
 
G

Guest

Green Tucan said:
ok the soil was still a lil moist from my last watering but o well. I just flushed them again with 2 x the volume of the soil



DUDE-your going to love them to DEATH!

unless they have gills, don't add water till they are thirsty.

restrain thy urge to water the world - it won't help.

HeadyPete said:
GT, the lime is what is causing you difficulties lowering your ph. Lime is alkaline.


Acid lowers pH, Alkaline RAISES pH
 
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G

Guest

florigen2 said:
Personally I think you are too acidic.....

IMO your ph should be between 6.0 and 6.3 and never fall under 6.0

nor over 6.5

If you didnt use dolomitic lime last time you should try using 2 tblspoons / gallon.....in your transplant medium...


and just see what happens.....


Oh and by the way.....

with promix you shouldnt be using just any old fert......

promix isnt like soil that may contain some micronutrients.....

you have to make sure you have all your micros in your fert bottle....

otherwise better to use mineral soil based medium.....
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
SolarT said:
Acid lowers pH, Alkaline RAISES pH

Please read the whole thread before you misunderstand my post and attempt to correct me..

The lime raises ph, as I said. He expressed difficulty lowering ph, and I told him it is because of the lime in his mix, which RAISES ph.

Thanks for being my editor though......:rolleyes:
 
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ItsGrowTime

gets some
Veteran
That pic of the lower fan leaf damage means that lower leaf isn't getting enough light so the plant is removing the nutrients and moisture from it. It will fall off on it's own once it is done. Normal. Those big lower fans help the plant grow during early veg. They become useless to the plant later in life as it grows upward.
 
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HerbGlaze

Eugene Oregon
Veteran
Gorge Cervantez says in his video leafs with little traingles pointing downward arent getting enough air or Co2
 

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