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please help
- Thread starter macibrox
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I see no one has answered yet.
My 2 cents: Its so strain dependent but to be honest 2 weeks of rain right at the end of harvest is not a favorable position to be in. All you can do is keep you eyes on them. Open up the buds look deep inside to make sure mold is not starting. There are fungicides you can spray but I'm not in favor of spraying during flower.
My 2 cents: Its so strain dependent but to be honest 2 weeks of rain right at the end of harvest is not a favorable position to be in. All you can do is keep you eyes on them. Open up the buds look deep inside to make sure mold is not starting. There are fungicides you can spray but I'm not in favor of spraying during flower.
That happened to me last year.
If you take them down now you will lose most of the potential harvest.
Wait and you risk mold.
I got myself a couple of cheap portable greenhouse and took the plants inside it, the problem with it, inside the greenhouses was really humid, so the risk of mold was incredibly high. I checked the buds everyday, eventually I detected 1 infected bud (out of 7 plants) and harvested, even so I lost, I would say, half of what I expected. but better than losing all of it.
Alternatively you can bring them inside and put them by a sunny window.
If you take them down now you will lose most of the potential harvest.
Wait and you risk mold.
I got myself a couple of cheap portable greenhouse and took the plants inside it, the problem with it, inside the greenhouses was really humid, so the risk of mold was incredibly high. I checked the buds everyday, eventually I detected 1 infected bud (out of 7 plants) and harvested, even so I lost, I would say, half of what I expected. but better than losing all of it.
Alternatively you can bring them inside and put them by a sunny window.
it sucks, but for me in my climate it's pretty normal(had some late plants last year that experienced non-stop rain/drizzle for at least the last month)
check every day, and look for leaves sticking out of a bud that look a bit wilted or discolored. if you see any such leaves, pull it: if it comes loose easily, you've probably got budrot. fold/push open the bud at that spot and check where the rot is. usually it starts somewhere inside, close to the stem, and by looking for slightly wilted leaves you can often spot it in the early stage, and cut it out before it spreads.
a trick I've heard, but not actually used myself yet, is to dip the scissors you use in vinegar to kill the mold on the scissors, so you don't infect a new spot when you make a cut(I did however do disinfection with a torch lighter, going over the cutting edge of the blade between cuts, but vinegar seems more convenient).
especially after you first spot budrot, keep checking every day. some plants handle it quiet ok and don't get any rot, or take a while of bad weather to develop any. but once the first rot is spotted, it usually keep re-appearing, potentially every day multiple spots if it stays rainy, and you have to keep a close eye on it or you'll lose a lot.
check every day, and look for leaves sticking out of a bud that look a bit wilted or discolored. if you see any such leaves, pull it: if it comes loose easily, you've probably got budrot. fold/push open the bud at that spot and check where the rot is. usually it starts somewhere inside, close to the stem, and by looking for slightly wilted leaves you can often spot it in the early stage, and cut it out before it spreads.
a trick I've heard, but not actually used myself yet, is to dip the scissors you use in vinegar to kill the mold on the scissors, so you don't infect a new spot when you make a cut(I did however do disinfection with a torch lighter, going over the cutting edge of the blade between cuts, but vinegar seems more convenient).
especially after you first spot budrot, keep checking every day. some plants handle it quiet ok and don't get any rot, or take a while of bad weather to develop any. but once the first rot is spotted, it usually keep re-appearing, potentially every day multiple spots if it stays rainy, and you have to keep a close eye on it or you'll lose a lot.
purplepassion
Member
Get some cheap strapping and some 6 mil plastic, build some quick frames. Wrap the plants when it rains, wrap them when the sun goes down and unwrap when it comes up. Leave the ends open and 10 inches on the bottom when wrapped. Sounds like maine every season.
leafwilson
Member
i remember in an old thread there was a recipe to make a home-made funghicide: half tablespoon of potassium bicarbonate and 1 tablespoon of neem oil (or soap) in 1 gallon of water, they said it's non toxic and totally safe to spray in late flowering. (this is what the thread said, i'm not responsible if it isnt true 
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Kygiacomo!!!
AppAlachiAn OutLaW
i remember in an old thread there was a recipe to make a home-made funghicide: half tablespoon of potassium bicarbonate and 1 tablespoon of neem oil (or soap) in 1 gallon of water, they said it's non toxic and totally safe to spray in late flowering. (this is what the thread said, i'm not responsible if it isnt true
do not spray neem oil in late flowering. it will totally fuck up ur buds.
wrapping your plants in plastic seems like the opposite you should do to me.... but I've never tried it, maybe it does work, and maybe it just depends on the situation.
but going by my intuition, I would think the plastic would trap moisture, and ellimate all airflow, while the humidity is in the air no matter if the rain hits the buds or not. I would think getting the wind to hit the plants well is way more important, so I avoid any covering that would decrease wind.
and, at least at my location, autumnrain is more drizzle than rain, all day long, every day again, so you would have to keep the plant wrapped/covered all day(and night). going by the amount of time it's raining it's not even that much water, but just because it's nonstop, and small droplets, air humidity will be at a constant high.
but going by my intuition, I would think the plastic would trap moisture, and ellimate all airflow, while the humidity is in the air no matter if the rain hits the buds or not. I would think getting the wind to hit the plants well is way more important, so I avoid any covering that would decrease wind.
and, at least at my location, autumnrain is more drizzle than rain, all day long, every day again, so you would have to keep the plant wrapped/covered all day(and night). going by the amount of time it's raining it's not even that much water, but just because it's nonstop, and small droplets, air humidity will be at a constant high.
G
Guest
Maybe harvest a few now and try leave some till full maturity.
purplepassion
Member
In Maine this last season we had rain and high humidity for the last 4 weeks of growing. Wrapping worked phenomenal, I got 1-2 weeks more than anyone else around here. At night condensation occurs from the humid air. If you cover befor then your plants will stay dry. In the morning the humidity comes from the ground so you unwrapped. If it’s raining or drizzle keep em wrapped up. Any direct moisture you can keep off the plant is a win. Also leaf blowers work really well to dust of the wetness. Sprayin will do nothing but contamination.
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leafwilson
Member
so maybe would be better some kind of natural soap?
the old thread said it's necessary to add oil or soap only because it lets the water+potassium bicarbonate stay on the plant longer and in creates like an alkaline "film" that prevents the fungus to survive
OP, consider this:
Somebody mentioned in another thread a way of forcing plants to finish flowering. The method is to cut a ring around the stalk at the point just low enough that everything you want to harvest is above where you will scrape a ring off the stalk.
Apparently everything above that point finishes in two or three weeks because that is what the plant diverts all of its energy to. BUT, what is relevant for you is this: the plant can no longer suck up water or nutrients from it's roots. What does that mean? The only water it gets is from the air around it/dew/rain.
This won't be a guaranteed protection against mold, but it will reduce the amount of water your plants are taking in (and thereby, I think, decrease the likelihood and/or severity of mold).
Somebody mentioned in another thread a way of forcing plants to finish flowering. The method is to cut a ring around the stalk at the point just low enough that everything you want to harvest is above where you will scrape a ring off the stalk.
Apparently everything above that point finishes in two or three weeks because that is what the plant diverts all of its energy to. BUT, what is relevant for you is this: the plant can no longer suck up water or nutrients from it's roots. What does that mean? The only water it gets is from the air around it/dew/rain.
This won't be a guaranteed protection against mold, but it will reduce the amount of water your plants are taking in (and thereby, I think, decrease the likelihood and/or severity of mold).
Natural high
Member
I doubt this would help in this case and will effectively starve the plant of nutrients.
Ring barking will kill a plant as the sugars produced in the leaves are prevented from being transported to the roots. Without sugars, the selective uptake of soil nutrients will cease as this process is energy-dependent. Until the plant dies completely however, water will continue to flow up the xylem into the top of the plant as it is a passive process that requires no energy.
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Tiresmoke19
Member
This cutting a ring when used in forestry and orchard settings is called girdleing. Cutting all the way around through cabium layer
I have zero knowledge of how it works on canibis but as mentioned above it cuts sugar off from getting to roots. In fruit and nut trees this causes a massive increase in fruit as the tree wants one last Chace to reproduce. So if your a seed breeder this could maybe create far more seeds than normal?
This girdle will kill the tree that year, we do this to keep a dead tree up for critters to utilize while at same time that leafless tree now gets sunlight down to forest floor to grow new life aka- browse for critters to eat. This may be useful Idea for those of you growing in your own woods and needing sun light.
I have zero knowledge of how it works on canibis but as mentioned above it cuts sugar off from getting to roots. In fruit and nut trees this causes a massive increase in fruit as the tree wants one last Chace to reproduce. So if your a seed breeder this could maybe create far more seeds than normal?
This girdle will kill the tree that year, we do this to keep a dead tree up for critters to utilize while at same time that leafless tree now gets sunlight down to forest floor to grow new life aka- browse for critters to eat. This may be useful Idea for those of you growing in your own woods and needing sun light.
