please help - show me the best auto water!!! Do you know a better way, Do they work well ? Capillary Mat Systems

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FEED GUIDE FOR 60/40	FEED GUIDE FOR PEBBLES
Start	2 x 15 minute feeds per day	2 x 15 minute feeds per day
Veg	3 x 15 minute feeds per day	3-4 x 15 minute feeds per day
Flowering	4-5 x 15 minute feeds per day	4-6 x 15 minute feeds per day

INNER POT:	Aqua Pot, Culture Pot, Punched Pot
SIZE:	6 Pot System (100L Tank), 12 Pot System (225L Tank), 18 Pot System (225L Tank), 24 Pot System (225L Tank), 36 Pot System (400L Tank), 48 Pot System (400L Tank)

Do like the passive systems no power needed

 

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[Ca++]

My local store, which became a national hub, had full time staff knocking these out the door. Until I got one, and realised it didn't work properly. Sent word back after modding it, and now the stands exist. Though I don't set them at an angle. Which is why mine is kinda sip, and could use a float to maintain it as such. I have other mods to maintain the level, stop root blockages, and quieten it down. The basic idea is great though.

I think they misunderstood why the stands are needed. As with the sip drawings, you need an air gap between the water, and the inner pot. Or the roots go to mush. There is no need to tip the bit out though. Or indeed, have them quite so high above the brain bucket. The pipe they use into the outer, is just a couple of inches, so tipping the roots to it, is illogical. The pipe needs to reach the center, so circling or dropping roots, don't go straight for it. After which, it's very reliable, but noisy. Mine... you hear the relays click. Only as it's the standard box still, not one of my own. Which are 12vdc, because it's a grow room.

Pebbles don't really hold enough water for a few hours between cycles. They have pots packed closely, indicating smaller plants, and no access routes. Most people are using 4 pots per meter, maybe less. They need a bit of water in the bottom. These are all things to think about, when running these systems. I can help anyone running into difficulties though. That noisy air hole that eventually blocks and floods the place, for example.

 

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GROW TREES
Yeild more with less reduce plant counts more production per plant

Wasted floor space results in less root and yield? Round buckets ok? Square buckets better ?
You already know where im going with this ?

As with the sip drawings, you need an air gap between the water, and the inner pot. Or the roots go to mush.

Aeration is a issue if there is a power outage

Expandable Sip design. Passive.

Thats what makes a system like this so attractive

That noisy air hole that eventually blocks and floods the place, for example.

The overflow valve, must have a safe overflow plan if flood is a danger


The above system is only 35 gallon ?

• Current Culture Under Current Solo COMM 35 Gallon (6 Site x 5.5" Net Pot Lid)

 

[Ca++]

The hole is an anti-siphon arrangement. The pump in the tank, will send water to the brain, setting up a siphon if not dealt with. This system has a hole drilled in that delivery tube, just before it leaves the tank. This squirts water back into the tank while the fill pump runs, then lets in air to break the siphon, once the pump stops.
This tends to salt up shut, especially when people cover it. Which they do because it's remarkably noisy. Like a kid with a straw, trying to get the last drop from a plastic cup.
The answer is simple enough. The delivery pump only has a 1.5m head. The short answer is you don't have a hole, you have an air admittance pipe, reach up past 1.5m. Where the pump can't get water out of it.

Personally, I use solenoids now. This means non of my pipes are blowing bubbles, or pouring water out their ends into freefall. Each pipe terminates under water. For everyone else, it's an air admittance pipe. With it's termination sized to effect flow, and noise.

 

[acespicoli]

RO water input...
recirculating and aeration running on solar RDWC

The hole is an anti-siphon arrangement.
The pump in the tank, will send water to the brain, setting up a siphon if not dealt with.