Plant is dying

[I'mback]

Thank you sir

 

[Muarco]

Transplanted, cleaned up the roots and removed most of the dead leaves. I noticed some regrowth on the bottom internodes so I hope she will out her energies towards new sprouts.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Maybe you could still spray it with a fungicide.

The problem is that the plant will have to grow faster than the mildew can work it's way up. And all the tips of the remaining leaves already seem to be affected.

 

[TychoMonolyth]

I'd stick another seedling in right next to it.

 

[bibi40]

Don't waste your time



Plant another seeds ...

 

[TanzanianMagic]

So my original advice still stands. There is still plenty of time for an outdoor grow.

Coco coir is a very uncomplicated medium, that is very friendly to beneficial fungi, which protect plants from infections like mildew and botrytis - within reason.

Use a perlite drainage layer just high enough to cover the drainage holes; fill with bagged coco coir; feed with 0.4 EC of flowering food and 0.1 EC of epsom salt; water in pure tapwater from the bottom only - food goes in from the top, water goes in from the bottom - very important in not overfeeding or underfeeding the plant, it keeps the nutrients in the medium, and invites the plant to send out roots to find it. It also doesn't allow the medium to dry out and keeps water evaporating to water the plant - evaporation is a very important source of water for young plants and plants with herbaceous roots (although weed also has a pen root and water roots - these get more important as the plant gets bigger and can actually reach the water table).

I'm using a watering mat for my plants right now, and I only top up the mat and the planters with their own water reservoir.

Simplify things, always.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=8598415&postcount=4

I think it is mildew.

- There is some blackish/blue residue or mold on the medium
- The dried up leaf in the back looks like it would have a lot of mildew spores on it under a microscope
- The white rings on the front leaf.

What I would do is chuck the whole thing out, clean the containers with bleach, and start anew with coco coir from Canna, Plagron or Biobizz.

- Put a perlite or hydroton drainage layer just high enough to cover the drainage holes
- From seed to mid-flower, feed with BioSevia (or Canna) flowering food at 0.4 EC, plus epsom salt at 0.1 EC and some trace elements. When the plant is in heavy flowering, feed with grow food (0.6 EC) and epsom salt; at this time, high nitrogen helps the flowers to grow and the potassium helps with forming bud's branches; at this stage also extra non-mobile nutrients Ca, S, Si and trace elements are required for extra cell growth.
- Growing organically, don't pH the tapwater, especially if it's naturally high in pH already.
- bottom water with clean tapwater only; let the tapwater stand next to the plants for at least an hour, a day is better, so the water and plants the same temperature and to let some of the chlorine evaporate.
- only feed again when the plant shows a sign of nutrient deficiency, if the bottom leaves and grow tips are in good shape and growing, don't feed.

This will prevent any under/over feeding and under/over watering.

Plants with cannabis' root system need a constant supply of moisture in the soil, and bottom watering or a water reservoir in the pot is the best way to supply that. And cannabis needs a lot of water throughout flowering too. It is only when the calyx hairs turn brown that the plant starts to attract more moisture from the air than it can evaporate, and at that time it requires a completely dry medium.

There is still plenty of daylight left for a grow this year. I've planted autos outdoors as late as late July.​