Pickling lime for ph soil adjust?

[Guest]

I'm looking at a can of Ball 100% natural pickling lime. Food grade hydrated lime, 35% calcium. Appears this stuff is not just for making pickles! It's used in marine aquaria to suppliment calcium and PH stability. This mixed with RODI water is called Kalkwasser and slowly driped in to the tank. IS this the same stuff? I'm kinda internet challenged but managed to find a little info.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_hydroxide
http://www.tiscali.co.uk/reference/encyclopaedia/hutchinson/m0026508.html
http://www.shroomery.org/index.php/par/23455
Hydrated lime is Calcium hydroxide. What I gather is this stuff MAY be more reactive than the lime at the nursery. Pickling lime is just a couple bucks at the grocery store. I hope the links work!

 

[vonforne]

Kalkwasser, That is German for caulk water. Here is some lime information. I don't know if it addresses your situation but I hope you find it useful. I'm sure that any lime is a better PH nuterlizer than none at all.


Calcitic lime is mined from natural, limestone bedrock deposits. The soil is bulldozed off the bedrock; holes are drilled in the limestone, then it is blasted out with dynamite charges. It is crushed to about 1-inch stones, then pulverized or ground to screening specifications. Calcitic lime, also called aglime, has a neutralizing value between 85-100 percent. In addition to neutralizing soil acidity, calcitic limestone supplies calcium, an essential element for plant growth.

Dolomitic lime is mined in a manner similar to calcitic lime. It has a neutralizing value between 85-109 percent and supplies both calcium and magnesium for plant growth.

Burned lime (calcium oxide) is also called quicklime or unslaked lime and is manufactured by roasting crushed lime in a furnace to drive off carbon dioxide. It has a neutralizing value between 150-175 percent, which is the highest of all liming materials. It is a powdery, caustic material that is difficult to handle because it absorbs water very quickly. When applied, use only on the soil surface and incorporate immediately to prevent the formation of granules or flakes which decompose slowly.

Hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide), also called builder's lime or slaked lime, is manufactured by adding water to burned lime. It has a neutralizing value of between 120-135 percent. Hydrated lime is a caustic, powdery material and should not be applied to established turf since it can burn.

Marl is mined from deposits that lie below peat bogs. It is calcium carbonate material that was formed by shell deposits or produced in aquatic plants. The material, deposited along with clay and organic debris, is somewhat impure, and has a neutralizing value between 70-90 percent.

Pelletized lime is finely ground agricultural lime to which a cementing agent has been added to form "pellets." It has been in use for several years, and while it is more expensive, this material is easier to spread than regular liming materials and eliminates the dust problem commonly associated with them. The lime pellets dissolve with a soaking rain or irrigation. If pelletized lime is used for establishing new lawns, apply to the soil surface and water thoroughly before tilling. If intact pellets are incorporated, neutralization will be confined to pockets within the tilled soil since lime moves very slowly in soil.

 

[Guest]

That was fast! Was looking at soil mixes and was amazed at all the different recipes out there. Just looking for a (simple, hopefully with under 20 ingredients LOL) way to amend my perlite/peat mix for some future Moms.
Thanks!

 

[Guest]

Use 2 tbls of dolomite lime per gallon soil mix

 

[mace_ecam]

Do not use hydrated lime, its the wrong kind!!!
Use dolomite lime

 

[Guest]

THankYou !

 

[vonforne]

You can go to Home Depot and get the Sunnyland Lime (dolomite and calcitic). It works just fine if you can find no other. And it is powdered.

 

[Guest]

You can go to Home Depot and get the Sunnyland Lime (dolomite and calcitic). It works just fine if you can find no other. And it is powdered.

These future moms need transplanting soon!

I will use a 70/30 peat & perlite mix and amend with the dolomite lime. I think I will try a very lite concentration of the "Alaska" fish emulsion.

 

[Guest]

Lol I have a few seedlings going in those same 4 inch reddish potsEDIT Have you given those girls their first meal yet?I see a bit of yellowing that shouldnt be happening.Something great for seedlings a couple weeks on their third node is a teaspoon of 5-1-1 fish emulsion,its great for the babies.Mine are about the same size as yours but are totally green

 

[Guest]

They have received 1 watering of 1/4 GN flora right before moving from dixie cups to these pots.

They ARE ready for a drink and a shot of nutes. They have 5 to 7 nodes. Two days ago I topped several using the SIM method , several I just topped and left one whole. I was reluctant to add anything until I worked out what my mix needed. So the fish emulsion is it. The seeds sprouted very quickly around 8/20. I hope to grow these to the point where I can sex them as soon as possible. they are under a 250 MH on a 18/6 schedule. In the mean time I plan to work on improving my BB setup and GR. Seems I missed a few key aspects when setting up the 1st round ! I think there is a relation between pot size and time to maturation. But that topic can wait a while.
Thanks for sharing!

 

[vonforne]

you are doing very good being cautious. It seems you have learned something from your first grow and now you are improving. As SKELETOR said, get some fish emulsion and give them a light shot. Add some mollasses to your mix. About 2 tablespoons per gallon. If you have an opportunity pick up some Liquid Karma. Add about a cap full to your gallon of water. They will brighten right up. Take a couple of clones off each one and label them. I always take mine before I go to 12/12. That way there is no change in their genetic make-up.

 

[Guest]

Especially if you want to keep a pheno going for any length of time,you better take all your cuttings before 12/12 starting with the original seedplant and every time you take cuttings thereafter.Good eye bro thats one of my pet peaves lol.Unless you're into vegging clones that are full-o-pistils and dont forget those funky funky fan leaves

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the shot of confidence .I hope I learned something from my 1st Charlie brown's Christmas Special grow. LOL! I plan to keep the original plants to the side and use the clones from each to decide which ones I want to keep. I'm curious about the molasses and it's benefits. Thanks again for your insight Gents!

 

[Guest]

Got a bottle of 511 fish fert, Man that stuff looks nasty! 1 1/2 tsp in a gallon isn't too much! The majprity of it just ran through

 

[vonforne]

Use a little plain water first to wet the soil. You will keep more of you fert water in the container. Pour sloooooooowly into the container and have a catch tray underneath. Let the plant sit for awhile and it will wick up the run off. As much as it needs. It will not wick up more than it needs. If you want you could water from the bottom, just takes longer. Fill a small container with your fert solution and just sit the container in it and it will do the rest. As long as you use all organic ferts, you will not have any salt build up to worry about.

Molasses feeds the micro organisms in your soil. Here is a post you can go read and learn more.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=32180

 

[Guest]

The plants greened up nicely and a noticable spurt in growth after the shot of fish emulsion. They are getting tall now I wish I had topped them earlier. I want to take off the top 3 nodes but don't think it wise. I think I "Shoot I missed" the SIM I tried All that grew was a bunch of half leaves. LOL! Anyway back to this topic. I purchased A bag of "HI Yield "agri limestone. I assume this is the right stuff. I'm about to mix up a gallon of pot/mix. In the past, I liked using lots of perlite but this round I will cut back . I will add 2 tbls of the lime. I also have epsom salts I could add. I'll look into this 1st . I have Lambert's sphagnum peat this stuff has a wetting agent and a little perlite.

 

[vonforne]

Quote:
Pelletized lime is finely ground agricultural lime to which a cementing agent has been added to form "pellets." It has been in use for several years, and while it is more expensive, this material is easier to spread than regular liming materials and eliminates the dust problem commonly associated with them. The lime pellets dissolve with a soaking rain or irrigation. If pelletized lime is used for establishing new lawns, apply to the soil surface and water thoroughly before tilling. If intact pellets are incorporated, neutralization will be confined to pockets within the tilled soil since lime moves very slowly in soil.[/QUOTE]

I think this is where the HY YIELD might fall under. What is the texture of the lime? Finely ground or pellets? be careful with that stuff, You might want to just use it as a top dressing now in case you have any problems with it. That way you can scrape it off later. I have never used that one before.

I would not put the Epson Salts in the soil mixture. Put it in your water and let it dissolve. Then water it in. But don't put it in your soil.

What soil mixture are you going by? Or are you using your own? There are some very good mixtures to be found on this site. Do a search and maybe you could get some ideas on how to inprove your mix.

Good to hear that your plants are doing better. Keep us posted.

Von

 

[Guest]

I plan to use the clones to determine which one to keep!!Man that is smart I've been throwing that one around for awhile now,you cant underestimate its importance,Its not the seedplants that you want to perpetuate indefinately,its the clones.If folks think that the seedplant will be identical to the clone,grow it out and see.Especially in the case of fdinishing time,I want to know what the clone's gonna do,not the seedplant

 

[mace_ecam]

well said SKELETOR, can't be said often enough, since a lots of people still think when they grow a seedplant "thats it".

 

[vonforne]

I plan to use the clones to determine which one to keep!!Man that is smart I've been throwing that one around for awhile now,you cant underestimate its importance,Its not the seedplants that you want to perpetuate indefinately,its the clones.If folks think that the seedplant will be identical to the clone,grow it out and see.Especially in the case of fdinishing time,I want to know what the clone's gonna do,not the seedplant

I put my seedplants out doors this year and have kept all the clones for indoors.
They have really shown me whos who so far (I have been veggin them for awhile now). It does narrow it down to keepers with the clones rather than the seedplants. Today they go to flower...finally and we will see who the winner is.