J
*Journeyman*
Do you bring in cuts, particularly rooted clones in medium, from outside sources? At least once and more importantly recently with what you're running right now?
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Phylloxera information - aka root mites aka root aphids
- Thread starter Scay Beez
- Start date
bicycle racer
Member
hopefully then nothing bad keep an eye on things though. the root aphids i have are dark in color and vary in size and are quite mobile.
bicycle racer
Member
did a second soil drench 8 days after the first i have seen none since the first treatment i will do another pyrethrum drench with canola oil in 1 week i think im winning this battle but only time will tell i refuse to lose the genetics i have.
bicycle racer
Member
been 14 days no sings of root aphids i think there life cycle is 2 weeks so i may have eliminated them i will do one more treatment to be safe but looking good. also my plants are greening up again and growing like they should so im happy only a couple small plants were lost. i recommend a pyrethrum canola oil soil drench i forget the name of the product i used but pm me if you want to know. i also used h202 with the pyrethrum and tap water because a high ph renders pyrethrum inactive.
Geoffrey Boycot
Member
thanks for your input. in the past i had assumed my clear/pink antenae-ed mites in the soil were beneficial. they seem mostly interested in moist soil and especially guano's. their antanae twitch at it when it is added/remoistened. they occasionally mount the plastic pot and go for a walk around the rim. also occasionally appear at the bottom of a pot near a drainage hole. i figured either fungus gnat predators (hypoasis miles) or some other fungus eating soil mite.
this thread had scared me though. I have had these bugs for 18months now (came with orig clones/soil) and they havent killed anything...so they cant be thaaat bad.
can they?
bicycle racer
Member
well i killed all the root aphids but all the bodies and root damage caused root rot sucks. but you can kill these things if your really thorough.
Ya, the clean up is almost as bad as the infestation.
The Bayer stuff really seemed to do its job.
I get these every year and every year I use the bayer. I'm always really attentive this time of year, so I catch it when there are very few. The key is, you'll see a few small ones walking around whatever your pots are on; luckly I use american agritech white tables, so the little black fuckers are easy to see.
bicycle racer
Member
i will never let them get out of hand again though i killed them the resulting root rot forced me to kill most plants very sad.
SickBoyZap
Member
I had never heard of These Mother FUQers. I just set up my account here but I've grown Medical here in So. Cal. for 7 years now and I've never had this problem!I've had White flies, Fungus gnats, Spider Mites, powdery mildew and bud mold, BUT THIS SHEIT IS HORRIBLE!
I grow my juvs in 16 ounce plastic cups under "blue" 400 watt medal halide. I only use Hydroton and rapid rooters....Thats it. Flower in reg 4x4 tray, 40 gal res, under 1000w Hortilux HPS.
So much of these suggestions are for soil. (I am probably in the wrong forum first time on site just 2 hours ago.)
Do you think the Bayer stuff will work for my system? What about a liquid Pyrethin additive for my res?
Help!
I Eb/Flo, 40 gal res
SickBoyZap
Member
Thank you for the nice Wiki link. I'm almost understanding what the hell we're talking about. 
SickBoyZap
Member
Mr Celsius, your the first person who really sounds like you have exactly what I have. If you only see them "walking around whatever your pots are on", and not on the upper plants themselves.
They just get flushed out onto the white tray. When the nutrient receeds or drains off do they look like they just survived a near drowning? Do you see floating colony looking groups of them on the surface and going down the drain?
The reason why I ask is because I have heard there are many subspecies of these pests and these are so ungainly they look completely out of their element and can't even get off their backs.
THE MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION!
How do you get rid of them every season as you say?
Thank you in advance for any help you can give me with these little SON OF A B#@TCHES!
Peace.
They just get flushed out onto the white tray. When the nutrient receeds or drains off do they look like they just survived a near drowning? Do you see floating colony looking groups of them on the surface and going down the drain?
The reason why I ask is because I have heard there are many subspecies of these pests and these are so ungainly they look completely out of their element and can't even get off their backs.
THE MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION!
How do you get rid of them every season as you say?
Thank you in advance for any help you can give me with these little SON OF A B#@TCHES!
Peace.
I've had a few vines die from this. Say a 40 acre plot (22,000 vines) I had 5 infected vines. Removed the vines, sterilized the soil and replanted with the same variety grafted on resistent rootstock. I was unaware that Phylloxera affected other types of plants.
Anyway, I know water management is key. Overwatering without allowing the soil to dry is what the bugs want. Easier to do in soil, harder to do in a potted plant.
SickBoyZap
Member
Dude, I used Bayer Tree & Shrub 'protect and feed' ($17-HomeDepot) and that's it!.
I filled a 5 gallon bucket with RO and added 5 tsp of Bayer. I was worried about the noots in the 'protect and feed' version of Bayer, but with only 5 tsp ultimately reaching my 40 gal res. I wasn't too worried. Plants look great: praying, turgid and HAPPY!
As I said I only use Hydroton and NOTHING else! After 3 hours of sitting with it having been doused at the root level, I rinsed with fresh R.O......VOILA
I thought people were exagerating, but I can't find anything alive and its only been about 11 hours!
I see the occational winged fungus gnat around but that's expected. Dropping Pyrethrin 4% bug bomb tonight!
Thank you to everybody! I know that this doesn't mean they can't come back, but I know how to manage them easily now
I filled a 5 gallon bucket with RO and added 5 tsp of Bayer. I was worried about the noots in the 'protect and feed' version of Bayer, but with only 5 tsp ultimately reaching my 40 gal res. I wasn't too worried. Plants look great: praying, turgid and HAPPY!
As I said I only use Hydroton and NOTHING else! After 3 hours of sitting with it having been doused at the root level, I rinsed with fresh R.O......VOILA
I thought people were exagerating, but I can't find anything alive and its only been about 11 hours!
I see the occational winged fungus gnat around but that's expected. Dropping Pyrethrin 4% bug bomb tonight!
Thank you to everybody! I know that this doesn't mean they can't come back, but I know how to manage them easily now
bicycle racer
Member
i would not stop at 1 treatment just because you cant find any does not mean there not there you more than likely killed all adults but eggs and nymphs who knows. only 1 has to live as they can reproduce asexually so i would do 3 total treatments once a week better safe than sorry. i did kill all the root aphids i had with pyrethrum/canola oil full foliage and medium drench at 1 week intervals for 3 weeks. the problem is the root rot from the bodies and damage for curing that i have done h202 drenches. the plants responded positively and are coming around and getting healthy again. moral of the story is at least 3 treatments are needed and following that h202 should be used as a medium drench if there is any indications at all of root rot(droopy leaves yellowing slow growth etc..) this is an effective way of eliminating root aphids it worked for me.
So I can't flood anything in soil(less) mix? What would be the best bet with the tree and shrub for me? Just a basic soil drench?
A couple weeks ago I found some crawling etc. I was getting ready to treat all my plants for pm/mites/gnats etc since they were all incoming cuttings. I sprayed floromite and azamax as well as dont bug me pyrethrum spray. It also got procure (for pm). The azamax was also drenched.
4 days later there were dead and dying in every stage of life all over the floor of the cabinet. Clear/black/crawling/flying. Dead.
Then fast forward to the other day, I start seeing them on a sticky card again. So I go through the treatment with the azamax and the pyrethrum (floromite and procure are kinda 1 shot deals for PM and mites so I didnt re do them.)
This time? No dead whatsoever, not a single body.
Don't know what's diff but I'm going to get some imid. Oh one thing is diff, they were in a cabinet after the last treatment but now they're too big so they're in the open grow room.
Smiley
A couple weeks ago I found some crawling etc. I was getting ready to treat all my plants for pm/mites/gnats etc since they were all incoming cuttings. I sprayed floromite and azamax as well as dont bug me pyrethrum spray. It also got procure (for pm). The azamax was also drenched.
4 days later there were dead and dying in every stage of life all over the floor of the cabinet. Clear/black/crawling/flying. Dead.
Then fast forward to the other day, I start seeing them on a sticky card again. So I go through the treatment with the azamax and the pyrethrum (floromite and procure are kinda 1 shot deals for PM and mites so I didnt re do them.)
This time? No dead whatsoever, not a single body.
Don't know what's diff but I'm going to get some imid. Oh one thing is diff, they were in a cabinet after the last treatment but now they're too big so they're in the open grow room.
Smiley
SickBoyZap
Member
If there are "ROOT APHIDS", and not "FUNGUS GNATS", you must treat them with IMID!
I have went through a year of hell with this and only IMID really works because it is SYSTEMIC! It stays in the plant and even in all new growth. Don't play with these bastards! They play for keeps.
Azamax, Pyrethrum etc., etc. are great for certain applications, BUT NOT ROOT APHIDS! IMO, IT WILL ONLY MAKE THEM STRONGER!
Although Imid is systemic it is harmless to humans, but it is sugested that you use it about 2 months before harvest. It is used in the Tobacco industry and all agriculture.
Hope this will help,
I have went through a year of hell with this and only IMID really works because it is SYSTEMIC! It stays in the plant and even in all new growth. Don't play with these bastards! They play for keeps.
Azamax, Pyrethrum etc., etc. are great for certain applications, BUT NOT ROOT APHIDS! IMO, IT WILL ONLY MAKE THEM STRONGER!
Although Imid is systemic it is harmless to humans, but it is sugested that you use it about 2 months before harvest. It is used in the Tobacco industry and all agriculture.
Hope this will help,
On a sticky card I have positively ID'd both gnats and aphids with my jewlers loupe. I know from my earlier success what the 2 stages/colors of the crawlers. are.
So for now I am treating with BT watered and crumbled on the top for the gnats. I used DE once and hated the mess it was. I'm treatig the aphids with the other stuff.
I am going to get imid tree and shrub to wipe them out soon. I'm in 5 gallon now going to 10 or 15 in a few weeks so I have plenty of time.
NO MORE CUTS WITHOUT FUCKING DUNKING THEM>
Maybe no more clones period..... just fresh unrooted cuttings and seeds.
I'm down. I can't cut this shit down but I will...
Would put me without meds for a longs time. I figure if I can't irradicat I can keep it under control at least.
So for now I am treating with BT watered and crumbled on the top for the gnats. I used DE once and hated the mess it was. I'm treatig the aphids with the other stuff.
I am going to get imid tree and shrub to wipe them out soon. I'm in 5 gallon now going to 10 or 15 in a few weeks so I have plenty of time.
NO MORE CUTS WITHOUT FUCKING DUNKING THEM>
Maybe no more clones period..... just fresh unrooted cuttings and seeds.
I'm down. I can't cut this shit down but I will...
Would put me without meds for a longs time. I figure if I can't irradicat I can keep it under control at least.
Bud Spleefman
Member
I totally agree about the Azamax comment, I used Azatrol for a year fighting these things, and now they are back, and bigger and FASTER than ever, they are CRUISING around the floor of my grow, I am freaked by how fast they are.
Do you thing if I am doing a DWC system that a 12 or 24 hr soak with the IMID in plain water would get them gone, or should I run the IMID with my regular nutes, and just do my usual change-over once a week? I'm guessing if I just did a 12 or 24 hr soak I could fill the entire system to the tops of the buckets, but I couldn't get away with doing that for a whole week or it would kill my plants.
