no longer garden, but in those days, it was simple.... mix 1-2 5 gal bucket(s) w/ cal-nitr8.... feed until runoff.... next day-2, mix p.k.s.mg.micros, mix 1-2 5 gallon bucket(s), feed until run-off.... what does `feed until run-off` mean?.... 20gal custom containers..... slightly raised over low-walled, wide catch.... pour water into container until run-off accumulates to ~1/8-1 in. depending on stage of growth or bloom.... roots grow from the container down into the shallow catch. the catch was shallow so that envronmental air-flow went thru the container (eliminating need for air stones, etc)..... even if the catch got 100percent dry, the roots will not perish.. feed until run-off conserves water and feeds only what the plant can consume during a given period, based on thier stage of growth and consumption....
member jjfoo seem studied in the field of comp secure, & secureity.... just @ icmag for gardening.... but maybe you could detail the set-up of a secure comp or network.... how would you keep you out? smile....
the uniformity was very simple.... w/ 5 gal bucket(s), use regular 32oz stadium cup.... dip cup into 5 gal, pour cup contents into 20 gal container.... repeat until either there is 1) adequate accumulation in catch, or 2) bucket is empty.... if adequate accumulation comes before bucket is empty, stop watering..... that was precise dosage for ea container. maybe 2 or 4 total... max 6.... maybe a 10gal if cultivar was short hydrid-type rose..... but, also ran 24/7 constant feed w/ pump.... in large open trough.... w/ same amount of accumulation @ bottom >1in.... no difference in growth or health of plantys... just tyme on unclogging lines, equalising pressure, & cleaning pumps, & trying to keep low level of run-off w/ pump still working on semi-dry pull (>1in).... in that type of garden, the same 5 gal bucket of nutrient solution was just poured into the single large trough, having 4 20gal under/side 1ks..... the work & tyme that maintaining the feed system took did not help in enjoying the garden.... fixing feed lines was not that fun.... simply pouring the same amount w/ a cup & then tending to tomatoes was more fun.... yes, plantys by wind (air-flow) will transpire more than others.... the wind is what carries the vapor away from the surfaces of the leaves.... uniformity can be achieved when the same cultivar is used thru seasons & can the gardener knoes how much that cultivar will use in a given span... the span can be 1 day, w/ several watering, or the span can be 2-3 days, w/ 1 watering.... but.... too much accumulation (height-wise) will decrease the ability of the plant to draw it up & out (of the leaves).... they seem to deisre only enough to make it through a couple days, similar to humans.... fed less, or just until fullnss, & performance seem to increase.... they (roots) seek water more & are exposed to more oxygen (less water present in media = more room for oxygen)....
...perlyte is nice! thanks to ~SYK~ for pointing out its benefits over/over/over..... no, perlyte only needs watering once per day... it is one of the most versatile mediums there is.... the fine-small type holds lots of water, the capillary action is good, & the the oxygen content is good.... watering perlyte 1x/day is the easiest method.... the ideal mix is 30perlyte 30turfase 30pumice & 10coco.... re-used over/over/over.... no end.... but, 100persent perlyte is also just as good.... the only better is 50percent perlyte, 50persent pumice.... the pumice is a little heavier & helps to keep the perlyte from floating too much, or becoming too compacted, as it does not crumble as easy..... turfase holds lots/lots of water.... a sprinkle of coco may help to retain moisture & maybe hold some k & ca.... try 100persent perlyte, hand-watered 1x/day, & the hoses/pumps/lines may remain in boxes/on shelf/un-used..... just not required for very simple method & same results.... feeding more than 2 tymes per 24hr is not ever really needed, not even for flush..... just keep same 1x/day rate, & use water for last week....
salt-build up is a topic that can be difficult to discuss on these boards..... there is not a clear definition of it.... the only salts that could really build up in the media are some of the cations.... the anions charge does not let them bind to the collidial surfaces... this is why phosphorus, for example, is fed more in fields than in containers, because it leaches readily.... a garden fed 1x/day does not get a chance to accumulate anything.... the ph is stable for those 24hrs.... even after a pour thru the container.....
the tec was to provide just only what the plants are actually using.... during that period.... can break down ppms, ec, and even calculate the actual atoms in millimhos, but the key is to feed only enough that can be used during a given period....
plants perform cation-exchange.... this is an actual exchange of ions, or electrical charges.... they cannot uptake more than they need if more that that peak is not provided....'salt build up' is mainly the lack of stable ph, making whatever cations held in the media insoluble.... this is why an acid ph was used (5.0 ph).... as nitr8 nitrogen makes ph rise during cation exchange.... for the uptake of nitrogen ions, the roots release hydrogen or hydroxyl ions, increasing media ph, & making some elements that need a lower ph to migrate thru the roots cell walls, unable to do so....
if hand-watering, only until run-off, there is not 'salt build up' because excess salts that may become insoluble, are not over-applied.... somewhere in this thread is the nutrient profile that was used back then.... including ppms... which can be converted to ec, which can be converted to millimhos, per element, @ a given ph, if really into counting atoms of elements....
during those last gardening days, did away w/ meters, etc... just used regualr warm water.... 2tbsp of cal-nitr8 or 2 tbsp of p.k.mg.s, per 5gal bucket.... never mixed in same tank, but well-mixed... cal one day, p.k.mg.s+si+micros next..... 1/2tsp of ph down, or regular white vinegar.... last meter check was some where around 1000ppm (n+p.k.mg.s+si, not mixed together, applied over 2 days), 5.0-5.5ph..... then, it was not necessary to used meters.... even when added mag-sulf, or mkp.... just a pinch of ea during fruiting..... maybe it could get to 2500+ppm during fruting, w/ + of mkp, k-sulf & maybe some kool bluum.... & extramg-sulf (they really liked extra mg-s during first 2 weeks of bloom)....
pumps/hoses/lines/etc are not bad.... just not needed for optimal growtrh & fruiting.... if they make it simpler or easier for gardeners, then use them!..... some may have found, in distant tymes past, that simply dipping a cup in a bucket & pouring it into a container takes total of 10-15min, even for trees.... pumps were not easier to maintain, lines were not easier to keep clean, pumps+lines did not make plantys healthier.... if more moisture was required, simply feed 2 tymes per day, not more @ that 1 tyme.... the tec was to have only a slight, shallow amount of run-off, in a very large trough, w/ low walls.... this maximized the dispersion of the run-off, so that there was no puddle, but a general dampness, & kept the open-walled custom container exposed to air-flow of the garden.... roots grew into the shallow trough, & were constantly exchanging gases w/ the environment, thru porous perlyte mixtures.... never had issue watering too little, or feeding too little....
watering too much may make them drown, feeding too little of micronutrients can cause issues.....
using a full micronutirent-only mix every week-10days, should prevent any deficiencies.... of course, ea cultivar may require little more of this/that, but in general, a complete mix of around 500-1500 ppm, w/ lower ph (good) will keep media salts more soluble & keep most plants healthy.... 2cents..... hope this helps the thread..........
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