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Panda Film adhesive

BonsaiBud

Member
Can I glue the stuff?

Anyone have a favorite white tape that will outlast ordinary colored duck tape?

2 sided tape? I need more than a tiny roll of Scotch.

I would like to stick it to enamel-painted metal and to itself.
 

happyherb

no wuckin furries!
Veteran
sliver tape with the backing to peel off...duno what its called (someone else will) ...real good to stick panda to panda not to sure about "enamel-painted metal" thou but its fkn strong for panda....glad i found it..HH. =]-~
 

ChaosCatalunya

5.2 club is now 8.1 club...
Veteran
You can use Spray Mount, a glue in aerosol for mounting photos, it works great, almost too good....and can be a pain to get off again.

Duck tape is great, for a while, then the heat can shag it and it falls apart...

If you staple it, sticking some sellotape behind helps to "double the thickness" of what you are stapling
 

Sleepy

Active member
Veteran
get some card stock and cut it into 1 inch squares for the areas you want to staple...staple thru the card stock, then thru the panda film into the wood...

foil tape is better than plastic or duct tape, and its reflective...

a wide roll of magnetic tape has helped me seal my flap where i enter...one magnet on each side (inside and outside)...stays shut and stays put...may help on your metal surface, too...

best of luck! :rasta:
 

BonsaiBud

Member
MAGNETIC TAPE

brilliant!

I'll try to get that photo adhesive. I have the silver tape but don't want to use it for various reasons. I think I'll just finish painting the top box and then spray-stick the Panda film. I also have oil base Rustolleum, but that stuff reeks of benzene for days. If I do the lower box with panda then I can grow in there until the upper finishes drying.

If I do an under-the-bed grow, I have some vinyl tape that lasts forever. I'll tape the back and staple. Oh wait, I need to do a fish tank stand...
 

clowntown

Active member
Veteran
Go to Home Depot or whatever and get yourself a can of aerosol adhesive. Be careful though, as there are multiple levels of strengths; you want the weakest bond. I use the 3M brand, forgot what the adhesive strength # is. Duct tape also works, but your mileage will vary greatly: the cheap kind will not stick very well at all, while the better ones will be impossible to remove (you'll just have to cut around it if you need to remove it).

To patch a hole / rip in the film, I just cut small pieces of Visqueen (panda), spray the black side, wait 5 seconds, and rub it on there lightly. Works much better than duct tape for this purpose, and much cleaner looking as well.
 
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Im using the spray adhesive on metal cabinets and it works but some areas are coming loose. My metal cabinets are epoxy painted. I did use it sparingly though.

I am condidering removing it and painting it white for a cleaner look. Then use velcro to hang small sheets of mylar if i desire. That way instead of cleaning the mylar sheets i can just trash them and cut new ones and velcro. Velro makes it easy to get mylar flatter because you can keep adjusting it from each corner.
 
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WormSlayer

New member
I've tried dozens of different sticky-tapes and glues, but they all eventually came unstuck.

Staple-gun for teh win :)
 

clowntown

Active member
Veteran
Yeah on wood I'm using duct tape + staple gun. If I don't use duct tape, the staples will rip right through the panda with the slightest tug. On some surfaces staples aren't an easy option, though. :(
 

clowntown

Active member
Veteran
Velcro might work, but I think adhesive glue (the amount of tack can be somewhat modified by varying the drying time) and a paint roller. DeadlyFoez demonstrated this in his super intelligent C24 cab thread:

10053DSC02894.JPG


It will also make it very easy to clean (just wipe down like a mirror), and resistant to wrinkling / wripping. Perhaps clean the epoxy-coated surface w/ some sort of solvent / cleaner to get the surface prepped up? :confused:
 

BonsaiBud

Member
Thanks clowntown. I may have a couple adhesive spays around here, but I'll have to do a test strip to see if they dissolve the plastic. I have one that is essentially a medium strength spray-contact cement. Probably not the right stuff, but I'll try it.

The back of that C24 box is like a mirror.

I'm putting a 250 CMH into a box that is 40 tall x 36 wide x 18 deep and using an old style Supersun fixture, the one with the flat sides on the inside.

I still might just paint it.
 
G

Guest

Back when I had partitioned off part of my BR. I used the 3M spray adhesive Clowntown mentioned on my Panda Plastic. Worked fine for me. Spray on both surfaces and then let dry as instructed. Works like contact ceent.

Pedro
:sasmokin:
 
happyherb said:
sliver tape with the backing to peel off...duno what its called (someone else will) ...real good to stick panda to panda not to sure about "enamel-painted metal" thou but its fkn strong for panda....glad i found it..HH. =]-~

I believe it is called water-repair-tape or waterproof repair tape, found in the plumbing section of Home Depot IIRC.
 

mikkel250

New member
Old thread, I know...

Old thread, I know...

Old thread, I know...


But for those who are wondering what the silver tape is called, it's Foil tape, and it's used for ducts, so you'll generally find it in the HVAC department of the hardware store, or here:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-...UTF8&qid=1423191958&sr=8-2&keywords=foil+tape

It's expensive, but it will take months of abuse or last a REALLY long time if you're not abusing it. You can even use it to ghetto rig a joint between two different size flex ducts if you don't want to go out and buy a reducing coupler.


My $0.02.

The magnetic tape idea is brilliant, so a combination of the magnetic and foil tape is what I'm going to use for a new propagation chamber using a wire shelf.
 
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