Cheech87
Well-known member
I think I cut her down about 2 weeks to early. The trichomes were 70% milky and 30% clear. I cut her before she pollinate the Skywalker Haze.
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PANAMA A5 HAZE ,MADMAC'S ORIGINAL HAZE 90 FEM ,.... 11/13 GROWING
- Thread starter Cheech87
- Start date
Cheech87
Well-known member
This plant (G13 Haze) looks absolutely delicious to me. I’m planning to harvest it at the end of this week. The trichomes are all white so far, and I’m waiting for a few amber ones. I’ll definitely grow it again – it’s very beautiful, easy to handle, and produces gorgeous, dense buds that are sweet, tropical, fruity, and peppery, with an amazing strong smell.
Cheech87
Well-known member
I’ve got two more new plants in the tent for testing from Super Sativa Seed Club. I decided to go with Gorilla Super Glue and Strawberry Chemdawg OG. They still need to germinate, so there’s a long way to go until harvest, but I’m hoping for something great. Has anyone here had any experience with Super Sativa Seed Club?
Cheech87
Well-known member
This time, I’m using Plagron Light Mix for my second grow of Panama A5 Haze, but it’s looking quite different from my first. The plant isn’t as compact, and the color is lighter. I really want to get it right and keep the plant nice and green until the end of flowering, instead of always ending up with yellow, fried-looking plants 
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gedLang
Well-known member
It is hard to keep the plants green all the way through a longer sativa grow. Giving nutrients more frequently in smaller amounts has helped me. The yellowing from lack of nutrients, especially nitrogen, seems to always start in the lowest leaves. So I keep a close eye on them to be able to react quickly to a deficit. And I know that the stretch is going to use a lot of nitrogen, so I make sure there is plenty available at flip. I think we use different styles of feeding though, I top dress soil with dry amendments.
Cheech87
Well-known member
Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's not a nitrogen issue this time more likely burnt from something else. I already know I have a more difficult pheno again because of the lanky growth. The only one I managed to keep somewhat healthy was my first Panama A5 Haze, which was more compact and vigorous.
I usually run into problems after the stretch, where the plant turns yellow from the top down. It’s still a mystery to me. That’s why I switched to Light Mix this time and am trying to fertilize later but at a very low EC, around 1.2 - 1.5 max. We'll see how it goes.
I’ve also been wondering if the light is too strong, or if different phenos don’t tolerate LED well. A lot of people seem to prefer HID lights for sativas. 🫨
gedLang
Well-known member
You can measure pH and light intensity if you want to rule out those possibilities. Measuring the ppm of runoff may help indicate if there is an excess of nutrients building up. It's tough to tell with an issue like that just by looking at the plant. Even if you fix the issue during a run, the affected leaves likely won't get better and may continue to yellow and shrivel.Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's not a nitrogen issue this time more likely burnt from something else. I already know I have a more difficult pheno again because of the lanky growth. The only one I managed to keep somewhat healthy was my first Panama A5 Haze, which was more compact and vigorous.
I usually run into problems after the stretch, where the plant turns yellow from the top down. It’s still a mystery to me. That’s why I switched to Light Mix this time and am trying to fertilize later but at a very low EC, around 1.2 - 1.5 max. We'll see how it goes.
I’ve also been wondering if the light is too strong, or if different phenos don’t tolerate LED well. A lot of people seem to prefer HID lights for sativas. 🫨
Cheech87
Well-known member
Sorry, I didn’t mean that the light is too strong, just that they don’t tolerate this type of light as well as HPS.
Could it be because many growers stick with HPS for sativas or am I just imagining that?
It’s not like I don’t monitor pH and EC check both with every feeding and watering. For this grow, though, I used a top dressing with Green House Bio Feeding and watered as usual with pH 6.5. Unfortunately, it didn’t work out; maybe the soil was too heavily fertilized.
I thought runoff wasn’t necessary with top dressing, so I skipped it. Should I still do it? Either way, I won’t use this mix again. Right now, I have a Panama A5 Haze growing in Light Mix soil.
gedLang
Well-known member
Yes, runoff with top dressing is not needed. But it is hard to measure the EC when top dressing, so one method is to water until runoff, then test the runoff. It is not very accurate but it can tell you if you have a lot building up in the soil.
I have only used LEDs but I have read that sativas prefer HPS. My impression is that you will get a bigger yield with HPS but LEDs are sufficient to complete the grow with healthy plants. For these Ace strains you can fortunately look through the associated thread to see what experiences others have had using LEDs.
I do organic soil, and with that method using a larger pot size with more soil is helpful to avoid deficiency. Because the nutrients are stored in the soil, having more means a bigger bank for the plant to draw from. And you can add more nutrients at a time without burning. Of course, many sativas would get too big for the tent, so transplanting to a larger amount of soil after stretch is best. And using Earth Worm Compost in the soil blend is a great way to provide a backdrop of micro and macro nutrients.
Growing using liquid nutrients or non-organic fertilizer salts is different and I am not experienced with it. Some day I will try!
I have only used LEDs but I have read that sativas prefer HPS. My impression is that you will get a bigger yield with HPS but LEDs are sufficient to complete the grow with healthy plants. For these Ace strains you can fortunately look through the associated thread to see what experiences others have had using LEDs.
I do organic soil, and with that method using a larger pot size with more soil is helpful to avoid deficiency. Because the nutrients are stored in the soil, having more means a bigger bank for the plant to draw from. And you can add more nutrients at a time without burning. Of course, many sativas would get too big for the tent, so transplanting to a larger amount of soil after stretch is best. And using Earth Worm Compost in the soil blend is a great way to provide a backdrop of micro and macro nutrients.
Growing using liquid nutrients or non-organic fertilizer salts is different and I am not experienced with it. Some day I will try!
Cheech87
Well-known member
I'm giving the Amnesia Haze from Soma Seeds another chance because I really liked the plant and want to achieve a better result without any nanners. I’m confident that the previous issues were my fault.
I wasn’t fertilizing properly, which led to nutrient stress and early yellowing. This time, I’ll feed her more strongly without hesitation.
The high wasn't as strong as it could have been because I harvested about two weeks early, but it was still good for daytime use
I felt high, but nobody could tell!
The buds were packed with trichomes, just not mature enough. I definitely see potential for excellent weed from this Amnesia Haze by Soma Seeds.
If you're wondering why I have so much perlite in the soil, it's because I'm dealing with a problem with fungus gnats in the room. They’re located outside the growing area, and I thought adding perlite might help limit their access to the soil. I've also used neem oil, so we'll see if that helps.
I wasn’t fertilizing properly, which led to nutrient stress and early yellowing. This time, I’ll feed her more strongly without hesitation.
The high wasn't as strong as it could have been because I harvested about two weeks early, but it was still good for daytime use
I felt high, but nobody could tell!
The buds were packed with trichomes, just not mature enough. I definitely see potential for excellent weed from this Amnesia Haze by Soma Seeds.If you're wondering why I have so much perlite in the soil, it's because I'm dealing with a problem with fungus gnats in the room. They’re located outside the growing area, and I thought adding perlite might help limit their access to the soil. I've also used neem oil, so we'll see if that helps.
gedLang
Well-known member
I've dealt with a lot of fungus gnats and I think your strategy is a good one. There are various products with BTI (Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis) which really help reduce numbers. But they only work on the larval stage, so it takes multiple applications to the soil. Watering from the bottom of the pot also helps.I'm giving the Amnesia Haze from Soma Seeds another chance because I really liked the plant and want to achieve a better result without any nanners. I’m confident that the previous issues were my fault.
I wasn’t fertilizing properly, which led to nutrient stress and early yellowing. This time, I’ll feed her more strongly without hesitation.
The high wasn't as strong as it could have been because I harvested about two weeks early, but it was still good for daytime use
I felt high, but nobody could tell!
View attachment 19093505 View attachment 19093504
If you're wondering why I have so much perlite in the soil, it's because I'm dealing with a problem with fungus gnats in the room. They’re located outside the growing area, and I thought adding perlite might help limit their access to the soil. I've also used neem oil, so we'll see if that helps.
Cheech87
Well-known member
Thanks for the tip with BTI! I'll get some and water with it too—these pests are driving me crazy
Cheech87
Well-known member
Cheech87
Well-known member
He's very spirited and has a strong hunting instinct. In the picture, he looks that way because I didn’t let him on the table he wanted to climb into the box with the Weed Every time I do this, he gets curious and tries to lie down in the Weed. Apparently, he loves the smell! Can’t blame him.
