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Outdoor Experts advise on PM! PLEASE READ full post too detailed for the subject line

Situation:
Small plants, autos, low to the ground, air flow could be a little better but heat of the summer, humid at times, rainy as well on and off. Altogether healthy plants in about maybe at most week two flowering. I used a rotation of Stylet type oils (Eucalyptus, Lemongrass, Ginger, Thyme, Rosemary, Clove, Karnaja, Neem) On top of the I've used Regalia. I'm trying to keep this grow OMRI only listed without ending up fucked.

I must admit Mycostop did suppress what looked like was going to be a dangerous outbreak of rot.

Mycostop recommends (in the literature) that not to tank-mix w/ anything. I don't know if they just mean chemical fungicides or spreader stickers (Actinovate DOES recommend a spreader/sticker).

Streptomyces griseoviridis Strain K61 AKA Mycostop seems like it should tank-mix OK with Actinovate (Streptomyces lydicus Strain WYEC 108*), Right?

:cuss::confused:


Actinovate recommends 4-8g per 2gal... or more if disease pressure is high (it is). So Been running 6g of actinovate and 1g of mycostop (about double the dose recommened but its a year old and they say once you open the package it begins to lose potency but its been stored in the fridge, foil pack folded tightly, zip loc'd, etc).

Anyway, I digress, Let's say I fold and use a little E20. What's the minimum effective amount of E20 one could possible use? .5ml/gal, one application, and not interfere with mycostop which is suppressing rot but the actinovate seems to be slacking on PM suppresssion. what else is there? I heard of ProStop, Compass, Procure? Am I in the twilight zone beyond combinations never even tried before. :::pAUSE AND RESIST EAGLE20 worm can clean up in aisle 43:: this is not about that, its about my couple plants and I need some help. I don't want to use it, is the point, but I'm getting really frustrated.

Disclaimer:

Anyway it's only for me I'm in a legal state with proper credentials, I'm not selling it to impaired people, im not selling it at all, I smoke cigarettes so I'm sure I inhale E20 anyway, not terribly worried about it @ any rate. In fact, there is even a brand of cigarettes called Eagle 20 (i find this quite funny)...The golden boy organic pot grower lights up an Eagle 20 after a tough day in the field fighting PM. :shucks:

I dont know if tobacco has lots of PM/Downy Mildew Problems. but I'm willing to bet....

I mean WHAT THE FUCK is a guy/girl to do.??
I feel bad for you 1/2 ton growers that can't cheat. It must be infuriating to see thousands of dollars and hours go up as a loss or maybe they just send the one plant they didnt spray in for the sample, I dont know, I dont pretend to know, and I'm not on a diatribe about synthetic pesticides.

Maybe they should just have discount bud that says "May contain E20, Or a Prop 65 warning label, or what have you. (I bought a new Eastwing Hammer the other day and it had a Prop 65 label on it! A hammer!) wtf?
 

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So did I just answer my own question or what, Krunchbubble? any help here? mycostop is helping with bud rot so much i dont want to kill the beneficials. now I'm also noticing rust spot as well. I'm retiring this location after this year. Unless i can get the area cleared out of all the advancing plants and trees surrounding it. Anyone anyone?
 

issack

Active member
Veteran
Wettable powder sulfur. Kills PM instantly. Been using it for years. If you spray like 3 times during veg . The plant will never get PM throughout the rest of it's life..
It rained here for 3 months straight this year.. not one plume of PM was on my plants in the greenhouse..
 
maybe i will try this on my photoperiods... at what type ratio? i don't have a dust sprayer so it would need to be in liquid form. i actually have powdered/wettable sulfur on hand. i don't know for what reason but the packaging warns to not spray within 2 weeks of an oil spray. its been 9 days since the last spray of anything and they are *just* starting a to show signs of flowering. i want to put something down on them before problems start during the flowering period.
 

issack

Active member
Veteran
1 tablespoon per gallon. Mix with water. No you don't dry spray. And don't ever spray within a few days of spraying something with a oil base. You should be golden if it's been 9 days since an oil base spray. I've sprayed my stuff with in 5 days and never had problems. Just don't ever mix it with anything. And spray when sun starts to go down.
 
I've started to think that the actinovate and/or Mycostop, possibly applying them at higher than recommended doses, actually leaves a white crystalline residue if the powder is not mixed into a solution until its turned clear, case in point, the occuring white patches on the leaves do not look like PM or DM, they are crystalline, and they do not rub off easily, nor do they smell like mildew. Still getting tiny outbreaks of budrot but the mildew is not spreading nor is the rust, im starting to think the white patches on the leaves, which even have a crystalline appearance in some areas are just communites of Streptomyces. One more week and that will be 10 weeks I think I'm just going to ride it out sans E20. Thanks for the sulfur tip I will try that in veg next year, my photoperiods are already beginning to flower so it may be a little late i dunno if i wanna spray even young buds with sulfur.
 

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