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Osmocote, my favorite plant food - easy peasy, complete

oldworld

Active member
....and water, light, air. :) Yes, that's all you need.

3 gal. pot is fine.
Oh no. I forgot about the air. I got water and lights though.

Really? 3 gallons? I guess I shouldn't be too surprised. But that's gotta need like daily watering. I was issuing close to 3 quarts a day on the last one in coco. That's cool, though. Cause I actually have a 3 gallon fabric pot sitting around
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Watering frequency is driven by the amount of foliage and root mass you have. No matter what the pot size it's your call to take care of the plant. My problem with this garden was neglect. I let my faves dry out too much which stressed them out. They dropped leaves because of the lack of water.

Am harvesting an original C99 backcross, again it was fed with Os. Colas/buds been air drying with a fan on them for about 2 weeks. Will be bagging today.

C99CuredApril3.jpg
 

oldworld

Active member
Watering frequency is driven by the amount of foliage and root mass you have. No matter what the pot size it's your call to take care of the plant. My problem with this garden was neglect. I let my faves dry out too much which stressed them out. They dropped leaves because of the lack of water.

Am harvesting an original C99 backcross, again it was fed with Os. Colas/buds been air drying with a fan on them for about 2 weeks. Will be bagging today.

View attachment 18982363


Well watering amount is driven by the size of the plant. But frequency is relative to the amount I can add.

My current plant is in 2 gallons, coco and it is nearly impossible to keep up by hand watering. It needs water 2x a day to run off (1-1.5 quarts each), and it's still pretty dry. I don't know how much water peat holds, but seems like 3 gallons would still need it daily at this rate.

You're the master though. I'll give it a shot.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Well watering amount is driven by the size of the plant. But frequency is relative to the amount I can add.

My current plant is in 2 gallons, coco and it is nearly impossible to keep up by hand watering. It needs water 2x a day to run off (1-1.5 quarts each), and it's still pretty dry. I don't know how much water peat holds, but seems like 3 gallons would still need it daily at this rate.

You're the master though. I'll give it a shot.

Coco sheds water until it breaks down then the structure is such that it holds too much water. I don't use it.

I make up my own mixes based on what I have on hand. The following will hold moisture well - peat moss, pine bark fines, vermiculite, perlite, compost. Peat is a trick, if it ever becomes completely dry it is hell to get it to a point of holding moisture again. It sets up a water repelling tension, an ion thingie. A "surfactant" added to your watering bucket like Ivory dish soap helps a lot to restore moisture retention no matter what the substance is.

SoilBulk.jpg
 

oldworld

Active member
Coco sheds water until it breaks down then the structure is such that it holds too much water. I don't use it.

I make up my own mixes based on what I have on hand. The following will hold moisture well - peat moss, pine bark fines, vermiculite, perlite, compost. Peat is a trick, if it ever becomes completely dry it is hell to get it to a point of holding moisture again. It sets up a water repelling tension, an ion thingie. A "surfactant" added to your watering bucket like Ivory dish soap helps a lot to restore moisture retention no matter what the substance is.

View attachment 18982408


I'm not sure what the first part means about coco. I guess not enough experience to figure it out. It's worked for me so far, but I'm by no means determined to stick with it. It's really a pain in the ass.

So I'm experimenting. I've got one in a big pot of living soil. That will be nice if it continues to work. The clones didn't like being put in, I had to rescue them back to coco. The more mature plant got a couple brown leaves and then seems to have recovered.

I really don't want to get into another complicated thing like that. I can get some osmocote and throw in this promix. Maybe even some cheapy compost. But I'm not about to start mixing all kinds of stuff again. Never again.
 
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Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
been there before ! in addition to fish emulsion bone meal is also raccoon food. Ive also found that it's best to prepare the spots at least a week in advance of planting . Raccoons are curious and will dig up fresh dug soil just because. I prefer organics I have good results with a little compost some and worm castings mixed in .Then one or two feedings with weak chicken manure tea during veg and that it , the compost and worm castings got the rest . It is possible that Osmocote might rapel digging critters, it kinda repels me but that's just me

Saw your post on Dakshinkali while doing a search on that strain. Did you ever grow it? Am thinking about getting some from KwikSeeds, also Thai, etc.
 

led05

Chasing The Present
It prevents so many headaches. I've used it for decades on literally 10K or more perennials and annuals. I'll be planting purty perennials in a back bed garden today and they'll get a hit like everything else.

Plus unlike the willy nilly "let's try this and that" this product was designed by pros who understand plant nutrition and came up with a brilliant system of time release based on soil moisture and temps. Plant material is temporarily dormant because of outside influences such as a lack of rain and/or cold temps.....no release.
It’s very true, all you say - do you remember omscote competitor dynamite? They went out of business like 10 years ago ( I assume bought) , I still use their shakers on my ornamentals as I got 5lb versions for a buck times like 700 - Best Buy my life as a small fella, they had much better quality IMO especially in their flower blend

But for the best veggies or cannabis outside a large medium there’s much better organic processed chicken poo vs the synthetics you mention & dynamite I do; you should give them a try especially if your actually are at the scale you claim, nobody on acreage farms with omscote lol - come on dude !!
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
It’s very true, all you say - do you remember omscote competitor dynamite? They went out of business like 10 years ago ( I assume bought) , I still use their shakers on my ornamentals as I got 5lb versions for a buck times like 700 - Best Buy my life as a small fella, they had much better quality IMO especially in their flower blend

But for the best veggies or cannabis outside a large medium there’s much better organic processed chicken poo vs the synthetics you mention & dynamite I do; you should give them a try especially if your actually are at the scale you claim, nobody on acreage farms with omscote lol - come on dude !!

Let's talk basics - whether it's chicken poo or Peters or Advanced Scamtrients, the plant doesn't care as long as it's getting its 13 essential elements. Witness water culture.

I do the best of both worlds employing both organics and synthetics. I can tweak NPK quickly and easily with synthetics. Same thing can't be said with organics.

Yes, I remember Dynamite. Was a rip off, never bought it.
 

yahooman

Well-known member
Veteran
I grew outdoors in swamps for years,native soil/promix 50/50,3 cups of lime per hole and 1 cup of osmocote 14-14-14.
Plants are flushed by october 1st,i usually harvest mid october,plants are yellowing and flushed nicely.i only visit the spot 4 times a year,once to prep and plant,twice to fim and defoliate,check and fix broken stems,and once to harvest.
QUITE SIMPLY THE EASIEST WAY TO GROW POT FOR ME!big yields,very healthy plants and well flushed meds.
 

yahooman

Well-known member
Veteran
I grew outdoors in swamps for years,native soil/promix 50/50,3 cups of lime per hole and 1 cup of osmocote 14-14-14.
Plants are flushed by october 1st usually,it depends on the heat of the summer,the hotter it is the more the osmocote breaks down.i usually harvest mid october,plants are yellowing and flushed nicely,if its been a really hot summer ill see yellowing earlier,once i had to feed with liquid nutes late september cause it was so hot...but only once out of over 15 years.i only visit the spot 4 times a year,once to prep and plant,twice to fim and defoliate,check and fix broken stems,and once to harvest.
QUITE SIMPLY THE EASIEST WAY TO GROW POT FOR ME!big yields,very healthy plants and well flushed meds.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
I grew outdoors in swamps for years,native soil/promix 50/50,3 cups of lime per hole and 1 cup of osmocote 14-14-14.
Plants are flushed by october 1st,i usually harvest mid october,plants are yellowing and flushed nicely.i only visit the spot 4 times a year,once to prep and plant,twice to fim and defoliate,check and fix broken stems,and once to harvest.
QUITE SIMPLY THE EASIEST WAY TO GROW POT FOR ME!big yields,very healthy plants and well flushed meds.

Flushing is a myth. Lots of feel good myths in cannabis forums. Another one is Fuck I Missed, FIM. If you want 2 -4 main colas then use my method of cutting above the first or second node.

Before topping:

BeforeTopping.jpg


After topping:

AfterTopping.jpg


Trunk "scaffold" after harvest:

4ColaScaffold.jpg


Glad you worked out a system that works!
 

xtsho

Well-known member
Flushing is a myth. Lots of feel good myths in cannabis forums. Another one is Fuck I Missed, FIM. If you want 2 -4 main colas then use my method of cutting above the first or second node.

Before topping:

View attachment 18983287

After topping:

View attachment 18983288

Trunk "scaffold" after harvest:

View attachment 18983289

Glad you worked out a system that works!

Flushing gets all the nutrients/elements out of the buds so that you won't be smoking what comprises the plant matter like C, O, and H. It will also remove the N, P, K, and other major essential elements like Ca, Mg, etc... will be flushed away as well. All of the elements that make up the structure of the cannabis which some call nutes will be removed. If you flush you'll remove everything and then have invisible buds which will burn clean.

Oh, I forgot to mention that the earth is flat.

:santa1:
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Flushing gets all the nutrients/elements out of the buds so that you won't be smoking what comprises the plant matter like C, O, and H. It will also remove the N, P, K, and other major essential elements like Ca, Mg, etc... will be flushed away as well. All of the elements that make up the structure of the cannabis which some call nutes will be removed. If you flush you'll remove everything and then have invisible buds which will burn clean.

Oh, I forgot to mention that the earth is flat.

:santa1:
So you're saying the plant is like a radiator and has a drain? :)
 

yahooman

Well-known member
Veteran
Ive been growing for 35 years,grown over 1000 lbs probably....in my opinion flushing positively influences the final product,predominately the burn.i dont believe its neccessary in organics though....
But hey,what do i know?!lol
 

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