Organic VS chemical nutrients

[Smoke_A_Lot]

I use both chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers. I grow soilless with organic amendments added into it, for the whole grow until about 5 weeks of flowering I use small amounts of bloom booster - Monopotassium Phosphate (MKP). It definitely improves yields, I don't flush either and my buds don't smell/taste of chemicals. It's A myth that chemical fertilizers kill microbes, in some instances the microbes benefit from it. Dr. Bruce Bugbee explains it better if you look up his videos on YouTube.

 

[Somatek]

I use both chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers. I grow soilless with organic amendments added into it, for the whole grow until about 5 weeks of flowering I use small amounts of bloom booster - Monopotassium Phosphate (MKP). It definitely improves yields, I don't flush either and my buds don't smell/taste of chemicals. It's A myth that chemical fertilizers kill microbes, in some instances the microbes benefit from it. Dr. Bruce Bugbee explains it better if you look up his videos on YouTube.

I think the idea grew from organic farmers looking at commercial ag that's dependent on external inputs, which leads to low soil activity and lots of top soil depletion (usually erosion as well). It's become generalized to the idea the mineral nutrients kill microbes over time as the nuance was lost but if you look at what Steve Solomon writes in "the intelligent gardener" he talks about the importance of mineral balance over devoutly following organic principles. So I tend to agree, a balance of the two makes the most sense as some synthetic inputs make a serious difference and the more we yield the better use of energy/the carbon footprint created.

 

[Smoke_A_Lot]

I think the idea grew from organic farmers looking at commercial ag that's dependent on external inputs, which leads to low soil activity and lots of top soil depletion (usually erosion as well). It's become generalized to the idea the mineral nutrients kill microbes over time as the nuance was lost but if you look at what Steve Solomon writes in "the intelligent gardener" he talks about the importance of mineral balance over devoutly following organic principles. So I tend to agree, a balance of the two makes the most sense as some synthetic inputs make a serious difference and the more we yield the better use of energy/the carbon footprint created.

Exactly! You explained it better than I could. I'll have to check out that book you recommended. I tend to be open minded and always willing to learn new things to perfect my craft.

 

[Somatek]

Exactly! You explained it better than I could. I'll have to check out that book you recommended. I tend to be open minded and always willing to learn new things to perfect my craft.

It's mostly about composting and pushing the idea that farmers should be testing their soil and using external inputs to balance/maintain that fertility, not hugely relevant to growing indoors but created a controversy in organic farmers when it came out.

 

[MrBreeze911]

Im considering using jacks citrus feed 20 10 20 and jacks blossom booster in flower, in an organic soil mix with compost, ewc, etc. and using biostimulant and knf and high brix foliars outdoors next year. Do you think that sounds like a good idea? I already have lots of all this stuff..

 

[Somatek]

It could work but it could also be needlessly complicating things by using more products then needed if your soil is good to start with. My general philosophy is less is more, especially in a heavily marketed area like growing pot. For outdoor growing I'd start with getting the soil tested to see where you're starting and use that info to guide your choices. When it comes to things like KNF, "high brix" products, biostimulants, etc I'd buy a brix meter and test the inputs one at a time to see what effect they actually have on the plant. Don't make assumptions or go off of other peoples opinions, take the time to collect the data (ideally having a control to compare with but if not testing the brix before and after using products over time will show correlations).

 

[Smoke_A_Lot]

Im considering using jacks citrus feed 20 10 20 and jacks blossom booster in flower, in an organic soil mix with compost, ewc, etc. and using biostimulant and knf and high brix foliars outdoors next year. Do you think that sounds like a good idea? I already have lots of all this stuff..

Me personally, I would skip the jacks altogether. Mixing nutes can be a headache, remember K.I.S.S. (KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID). with the method I'm about to mention all you need is water pretty much.

Use enough organic amendments to get you through through veg & early flower. What I suggest is looking into Epsoma/Dr. Earth organic blends. Use their blend with high nitrogen for veg and something with enough P&K for flower. I make layers in the soil with the high N towards the top and P&K towards the bottom of the pot / or you could top dress. I recommend adding powdered Humid Acid, Chitin/Cricket Frass, EWC.
Now this is optional start using MKP (0-52-34) at week 5 flower until the end, start with half teaspoon per gallon to see how your plants respond then bump it up to a teaspoon. Rotate between feed then water, and repeat the cycle. MKP is cheap and used in almost every bloom booster on the market. I picked up 5lbs of it for about $20, the bag will last me a life time.

 

[MrBreeze911]

Me personally, I would skip the jacks altogether. Mixing nutes can be a headache, remember K.I.S.S. (KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID). with the method I'm about to mention all you need is water pretty much.

Use enough organic amendments to get you through through veg & early flower. What I suggest is looking into Epsoma/Dr. Earth organic blends. Use their blend with high nitrogen for veg and something with enough P&K for flower. I make layers in the soil with the high N towards the top and P&K towards the bottom of the pot / or you could top dress. I recommend adding powdered Humid Acid, Chitin/Cricket Frass, EWC.
Now this is optional start using MKP (0-52-34) at week 5 flower until the end, start with half teaspoon per gallon to see how your plants respond then bump it up to a teaspoon. Rotate between feed then water, and repeat the cycle. MKP is cheap and used in almost every bloom booster on the market. I picked up 5lbs of it for about $20, the bag will last me a life time.

When you say half a tsp per gal, does that mean one gallon per plant at feeding time?

 

[Smoke_A_Lot]

When you say half a tsp per gal, does that mean one gallon per plant at feeding time?

I mean Half tsp per gallon of water.
It's a crystalline powder, I measure it into a jar and add hot water then shake it up. It's best dissolved that way. Then i add it into my watering can of cool water.

 

[MrBreeze911]

I mean Half tsp per gallon of water.
It's a crystalline powder, I measure it into a jar and add hot water then shake it up. It's best dissolved that way. Then i add it into my watering can of cool water.

Okay. But I mean when it's time to feed the plants, do you only use one gallon of water per plant when feeding? Sounds like a stupid question that I think I know the answer to, but just wondering

 

[Smoke_A_Lot]

Okay. But I mean when it's time to feed the plants, do you only use one gallon of water per plant when feeding? Sounds like a stupid question that I think I know the answer to, but just wondering

Roughly about 2 gallons (give or take) per 7 gallon fabric pot. I water until I get run off out the bottom. But if you're growing in the ground it's gonna be different.

 

[Smoke_A_Lot]

If you're worried about over watering then let your plants tell you when they need water, if fan leaves start to get droopy it's a good indicator they need water.