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Organic Soil Mix Recipe
- Thread starter duggy
- Start date
TrichomusCaesar
Member
Are you using this mix for seedlings? Because I wouldn't recommend it...seems too hot with the bone meals and such.
I recommend just using plain potting soil with added lime, vermiculite and perlite in a small container.....then after about two weeks transplant it into your organic mix for further vegging.
The seed provides all the nutrients needed for initial growth.
My 2 cents.
Peace
I recommend just using plain potting soil with added lime, vermiculite and perlite in a small container.....then after about two weeks transplant it into your organic mix for further vegging.
The seed provides all the nutrients needed for initial growth.
My 2 cents.
Peace
G
Guest
I will redefine I dont like larg amounts of bark in soil maybe 1cm. is a little large maybe.5 cm is better sorry about the difference I am stoned most times and I oversimplified the issue.
G
Guest
I cant measure percicely so here is my best rendition of a good semi-Homade organic mix. I will post it here in 2 hours.
V
vonforne
emmy75 said:
only in Hot composting not passive
G
Guest
soil mix hi yeild
soil mix hi yeild
Take a good organic soil mix or soil. Determine how much pertilite if any it contains, most do not have enough. Try not to get any with time release fertilizer,slow release humates are good so thats a big plus. The idea of using theese organic items is to grt them at the correct time so slower release amendments will take some processing before using. You will have to do some testing which is cheap compared to very expensive soil and your hard work will pay off with abundant fastgrowing crops.
Not all ingredients needed:
Soil ingredients
Blood meal
worm castings
bat guano high N
bat guano high P
greensand
wood ash
michrozal fungi source (jeffs potting mix)
Mushroom compost
composted manure
bonemeal
Limestone (high magnesium 40%+)
kelp liquid
this is going to take longer without a word processor I''ll post more later...
soil mix hi yeild
Take a good organic soil mix or soil. Determine how much pertilite if any it contains, most do not have enough. Try not to get any with time release fertilizer,slow release humates are good so thats a big plus. The idea of using theese organic items is to grt them at the correct time so slower release amendments will take some processing before using. You will have to do some testing which is cheap compared to very expensive soil and your hard work will pay off with abundant fastgrowing crops.Not all ingredients needed:
Soil ingredients
Blood meal
worm castings
bat guano high N
bat guano high P
greensand
wood ash
michrozal fungi source (jeffs potting mix)
Mushroom compost
composted manure
bonemeal
Limestone (high magnesium 40%+)
kelp liquid
this is going to take longer without a word processor I''ll post more later...
G
Guest
Take a good organic soil mix or soil. Determine how much pertilite if any it contains, most do not have enough. Try not to get any with time release fertilizer,slow release humates are good so thats a big plus. The idea of using these organic items is to use them at the correct time so slower release amendments will take some processing before using. You will have to do some testing which is cheap compared to very expensive soil and your hard work will pay off with abundant fast growing crops.
Not all ingredients needed:
Soil ingredients,
Blood meal( provides N )
worm castings ( N or/and p or/and k )(adds disease resistance)
bat guano (high N)
bat guano (high P)
green sand (Micronutes slow acting)
michrozal fungi source (jeffs potting mix) (helps roots perform)
Mushroom compost (helps with mix and provides assorted nutes)
composted manure (not human)
bone meal P
Limestone (high magnesium 40%+)
kelp liquid K (May cause stretch)
kelp meal K
sand drainage
rocks drainage
Browning the bone meal with some heat (Toasting) will make it break down a little faster to a rate more suitable for pots and dirt that needs P for 2 to 3 months.
get the magnesium this is common problem and lots of times shows mid to late flowering. A mag shortage will lower harvest weight. Use Epsom salts if this occurs in flowering. I personally use epsoma organic 7 grams per gallon of water. for 1 watering.
The N bat guano is pretty fast acting not so fast as blood meal. I personally don't like blood products but it is a source of minerals and pretty balanced for vegging.
Green sand i use green sand in my worm bin and wet it and let it age good plants will not grow without micros's and green sand has them all . problem is this stuff breaks down VERY SLOW 3 months in a pot wont do much. I let the worms work on it and age it 3 to 4 months more. Green sand is also a soil conditioner.
The michrizal fungi extends your root system and helps the roots work more efficiently. almost like free roots, say a root economizer.
Here is the stickler...Dolomite... limestone. i cant find that here so I improvise with some 60/40 limestone. i also have some 60/40 quicklime for ph adjustments. I believe this 60/40 proportion is necessary as some cal mag balance that some plants desperately need.
Nuts and bolts, heres the whole enchilada Buy some of them chemical tests for N P K and ph check your soil 1 month after mixing and befor flowering or just at it. DO not ignore the K a plant with no roots will not produce just as important as N or P. N,P and K are all necessary more or less at different stages. The K is a constant need at lower levels than N or P. My favorite amendment for K is kelp meal. I will add more later but even with a word processor cannot type so well. My next additions will be the proportions and in more detail on the slower to be useful amendments. Organics do not need a hell of a lot of ph adjustments. 6.5 to 7 is good enough and mine drops from 7 to 6.5 during a 3 month period. As the organics decompose the soil becomes a little more acidic worm castings can be pretty acidic it is easier for me to PH adjust the castings separately the las castings I made had a PH of 5.5 to 6.3 added lime and tested again after a few weeks.
Not all ingredients needed:
Soil ingredients,
Blood meal( provides N )
worm castings ( N or/and p or/and k )(adds disease resistance)
bat guano (high N)
bat guano (high P)
green sand (Micronutes slow acting)
michrozal fungi source (jeffs potting mix) (helps roots perform)
Mushroom compost (helps with mix and provides assorted nutes)
composted manure (not human)
bone meal P
Limestone (high magnesium 40%+)
kelp liquid K (May cause stretch)
kelp meal K
sand drainage
rocks drainage
Browning the bone meal with some heat (Toasting) will make it break down a little faster to a rate more suitable for pots and dirt that needs P for 2 to 3 months.
get the magnesium this is common problem and lots of times shows mid to late flowering. A mag shortage will lower harvest weight. Use Epsom salts if this occurs in flowering. I personally use epsoma organic 7 grams per gallon of water. for 1 watering.
The N bat guano is pretty fast acting not so fast as blood meal. I personally don't like blood products but it is a source of minerals and pretty balanced for vegging.
Green sand i use green sand in my worm bin and wet it and let it age good plants will not grow without micros's and green sand has them all . problem is this stuff breaks down VERY SLOW 3 months in a pot wont do much. I let the worms work on it and age it 3 to 4 months more. Green sand is also a soil conditioner.
The michrizal fungi extends your root system and helps the roots work more efficiently. almost like free roots, say a root economizer.
Here is the stickler...Dolomite... limestone. i cant find that here so I improvise with some 60/40 limestone. i also have some 60/40 quicklime for ph adjustments. I believe this 60/40 proportion is necessary as some cal mag balance that some plants desperately need.
Nuts and bolts, heres the whole enchilada Buy some of them chemical tests for N P K and ph check your soil 1 month after mixing and befor flowering or just at it. DO not ignore the K a plant with no roots will not produce just as important as N or P. N,P and K are all necessary more or less at different stages. The K is a constant need at lower levels than N or P. My favorite amendment for K is kelp meal. I will add more later but even with a word processor cannot type so well. My next additions will be the proportions and in more detail on the slower to be useful amendments. Organics do not need a hell of a lot of ph adjustments. 6.5 to 7 is good enough and mine drops from 7 to 6.5 during a 3 month period. As the organics decompose the soil becomes a little more acidic worm castings can be pretty acidic it is easier for me to PH adjust the castings separately the las castings I made had a PH of 5.5 to 6.3 added lime and tested again after a few weeks.
