Operation Retirement - $nype Style!

[sourpuss]

Still waiting for a panty showdown... opps wrong thread...

 

[GreeeeN GRassss]

any local weed here is pretty shit, it can be contaminated with pretty much anything to get the weight up on it. other stuff is basically cut straight off the plant and bagged then sold. i have not purchased weed in two years here. plus its so expensive 500 to 600 dollars an oz and maybe more.

i fucked up my last round so i missed a harvest , it kind of happened at a good time. end of my course so im level headed to finish assignments.

 

[1TWISTEDTRUCKER]

I wish I could play Y'all the visual I'm getting of Skinny ASSED Snype all Clad in collector Nikes, and NBA jersey,,, just assholes, and elbows running from a bear in the bush's.

I'm KILLING Myself here.

Peace; 1TT

 

[Cat Jockey]

I also want to take the time and talk about hydroponics.

It's because of this statement I don't feel too bad about jumping into a Grow Show to talk details - but I ain't trying to be a dick. I'm an OG refugee, then a PalnetGanja refugee. Now, I only visit weed forums, occasionally, and only stick around for a couple days.

And I LOVE talkin' hydro and pH. And I am NOT a fan of the Lucas Formula. I'm also going to preface this by saying Sweet Lady Jane will tolerate a range of conditions. Meaning anyone person's particular method/way/system can have differences from others, while still having pretty good harvests.

I get anal about the shit, though, like many. So, not trying to criticize, tell anyone they are flat-out wrong, etc. Just a couple things I saw proffered that I have a different take on.

I'm basically using one of Lucas's Formulas by pH. It's not exact but I basically use the same ratio but I changed the amount to use more specific to the system and plants. I don't just put in a certain amount of mL's for every strain. I let the system tell me how much to use through my data.

There is only ONE Lucas Formula. It is the ratio of 2:1 with GH Micro & Bloom. Anything added to, or changed, and you are not using the Lucas Formula. It sounds like a petty distinction, but it is one Lucas has made, himself, on the weed forums. Further, the Lucas Formula is all about growin' on da cheap. That was one of the goals - to spend less money on nutrients. No reservoir changes through out the crop cycle, etc.

People became drawn to it, because it was 'simple'. Noobs were told to start hydro using the Lucas Formula in a lot of threads.

Lastly, and most importantly, it is a nutrient regiment that is lacking. The origins of the Lucas Formula, and the determinations of what the plant needs for a nutrient solution, came from less advanced gardens, in some cases, than your RDWC you have set up.

IIRC, there was some usage of data from T-8 fluoro grows, which will not push a plants metabolism, like vertical thowies in a RDWC.

The incompleteness of the mix, coupled with that f'ing blue pH chart St0ney from the HC boards made that has been plastered all over the net, are a couple reasons for a limited pH range being spread around and used by a lot of farmers.

Hydro Sweet Lady Jane plants like a range from about 5.1-2, or so, up to about 6.1-2, or so.

This, plus Botanicrap's shitty Pure Blend Pro (it became the rage for easy mostly organic hydro years ago), have led to many growers thinking they need a bottle of Cal/Mag and/or epsom salts in their garden.

There is good stuff, as far as ionic exchange, happening between 5.1-5.5-6 in the root zone. Like efficient Mg uptake. 5.6 is about the worst point for efficient Mg uptake. Botanicrap's (I do use Clearex, though) PBP line did not have enough Mg in it. So, everyone started buying their Cal/Mag+. After that, they came out with a product for that line called Sweet, which was pretty much nothing but Mg.

On top of that, Cal/Mag has a good amount of N in it, so N toxicities are common in hydro gardens running Cal/Mag and the wrong pH range.

And just to get it out there, most farmers who say they are using Soil, really aren't. Most farmers use a largely peat/perlite/vermiculite mix. When you get down to the nuts and bolts of it, it is a medium that actually mimics hydro, providing you have it nice and aerated with perlite. Therefore, one can (and I suggest do) treat like a drain to waste hydro system, including fertilizing with a solution that starts in the low 5's and using 10%-15% runoff.

I don't want to be the douche that jumps in someone else's grow show and posts pics of their garden, but I am making some claims, some rather strong ones, so let me throw up a couple pics from different gardens I have had.

All of these plants were fed the same base nute regime, at the same pH I am talking about - starts around 5.2, gradually and predictably rises to about 6.1, where I dump and change. For the record, as a base nute regime, I am a big fan of GH 3-part. ALL 3 parts, not just micro and bloom. I use other additives, supplements, etc., but as a base, it kicks ass, is consistnet, stable, mixes well with other stuff and provides what yer girls need for macro/secondary/micro nutes. Plus, when you mix it up, the pH is exactly where you want to start - in the low 5's, like 5.2.

People have pretty decent grows, using a limited pH range, but they tend to have to find a special formula/mix. To change the proportions of the original nutritional elements to compensate for the pH - and then, if they deviate from that pH too much, the plants show issues because the regime has been built to compensate for a limited pH range, and the plant does not uptake the right nutrients in the right proportions.

And even then, IMO, slight nutritional issues, on relatively healthy plants, are detectable. I know I can see them ...

You will not find a bottle of Cal/Mag, epsom salts or any pH Up or Down (this shit is an easy way to fuck up your res before it ever hits your plants) in any of these gardens. And there were probably 80 different strains that went into these gardens. None of which you can see any Ca/Mg issues in:

This was in a 10,000 Watt mother room I had. This is looking down a row of a 24 site RDWC, lit by 6 vertical MH thowies, after a little maintnenace haircut. Each one of those plants is a different strain, and fed a clone room that held x,xxx clones. 24 different strains, one nutrient solution, pH started on a fresh res at 5.2 and dumped and changed at 6.1:



This is in that same room, a 4x4 Ebb&Flow tray directly under the thowie with the bat wing, and 5 gallon dirt (peat/perlite/vermic) plants ringged around the tray, reachin' for some light. Exact same mix as the RDWC (different ppms, but pH and proportions all the same):



Those 'dirt' mothers in the Homer buckets received the exact same pH and nutritional proportions as the RDWC (RDWC got less ppms):



This was a modest home garden. A 3x3 under a 400 on the right and a 4x4 on the left under a thowie. This fed a 4 thowie, 4 tray flower room, sealed and CO2'ed. And a 2x4 under T5's that I used for clone/strain overflow. All the exact same pH and proportions of that 10,000 Watt mother room:



That, IMO, is a sign of a good base nutrient regime, which I consider GH 3-Part to be. One that can be transferred from garden to garden, light to light, medium to medium, and system to system. Providing one ditches the Lucas Formula and buys a bottle of veg ...


I'm a weed geek, like many of you. Sorry for the intrusion and pics, but I don't hang around on the forums much anymore. A few days and a few posts at a time (and this might be the last of the few for a while). When I do, I tend to talk hydro and pH and Lucas and such. And I am posting in yours 'cause I got sucked into a couple of yours and Snypette's, with all of the life drama, young ladies in tight pants bending over in gardens, your interesting life story you are open with, etc. Lol. Entertaining. And I mean that in a good way. Your food pics are awesome.

I'm not saying you are wrong as much as I am suggesting you reconsider being so adamant about your ideas of what proper RDWC pH levels are, and hydro in general. And while you can grow pretty decent stuff with the Lucas Formula, I, personally, always see nutritional disorders in just about every garden that is using Lucas, or a modified version, and high performance growing gear, like RDWC and high wattage lights, trying to push plants and their metabolism.

All done.

K+ on the outdoor adventure you are undertaking and sharing. For all of the work and pains in yer ass, I'll bet you're having a blast - that's quite memorable experience, from ghetto grows to living on a farm in the country, I'm sure. Enjoy the hell outta it.

Be safe and smart up there, Cousin Vinny and Cousin Vinnyette ...

 

[Snype]

It's because of this statement I don't feel too bad about jumping into a Grow Show to talk details - but I ain't trying to be a dick. I'm an OG refugee, then a PalnetGanja refugee. Now, I only visit weed forums, occasionally, and only stick around for a couple days.

And I LOVE talkin' hydro and pH. And I am NOT a fan of the Lucas Formula. I'm also going to preface this by saying Sweet Lady Jane will tolerate a range of conditions. Meaning anyone person's particular method/way/system can have differences from others, while still having pretty good harvests.

I get anal about the shit, though, like many. So, not trying to criticize, tell anyone they are flat-out wrong, etc. Just a couple things I saw proffered that I have a different take on.

There is only ONE Lucas Formula. It is the ratio of 2:1 with GH Micro & Bloom. Anything added to, or changed, and you are not using the Lucas Formula. It sounds like a petty distinction, but it is one Lucas has made, himself, on the weed forums. Further, the Lucas Formula is all about growin' on da cheap. That was one of the goals - to spend less money on nutrients. No reservoir changes through out the crop cycle, etc.

People became drawn to it, because it was 'simple'. Noobs were told to start hydro using the Lucas Formula in a lot of threads.

Lastly, and most importantly, it is a nutrient regiment that is lacking. The origins of the Lucas Formula, and the determinations of what the plant needs for a nutrient solution, came from less advanced gardens, in some cases, than your RDWC you have set up.

IIRC, there was some usage of data from T-8 fluoro grows, which will not push a plants metabolism, like vertical thowies in a RDWC.

The incompleteness of the mix, coupled with that f'ing blue pH chart St0ney from the HC boards made that has been plastered all over the net, are a couple reasons for a limited pH range being spread around and used by a lot of farmers.

Hydro Sweet Lady Jane plants like a range from about 5.1-2, or so, up to about 6.1-2, or so.

This, plus Botanicrap's shitty Pure Blend Pro (it became the rage for easy mostly organic hydro years ago), have led to many growers thinking they need a bottle of Cal/Mag and/or epsom salts in their garden.

There is good stuff, as far as ionic exchange, happening between 5.1-5.5-6 in the root zone. Like efficient Mg uptake. 5.6 is about the worst point for efficient Mg uptake. Botanicrap's (I do use Clearex, though) PBP line did not have enough Mg in it. So, everyone started buying their Cal/Mag+. After that, they came out with a product for that line called Sweet, which was pretty much nothing but Mg.

On top of that, Cal/Mag has a good amount of N in it, so N toxicities are common in hydro gardens running Cal/Mag and the wrong pH range.

And just to get it out there, most farmers who say they are using Soil, really aren't. Most farmers use a largely peat/perlite/vermiculite mix. When you get down to the nuts and bolts of it, it is a medium that actually mimics hydro, providing you have it nice and aerated with perlite. Therefore, one can (and I suggest do) treat like a drain to waste hydro system, including fertilizing with a solution that starts in the low 5's and using 10%-15% runoff.

I don't want to be the douche that jumps in someone else's grow show and posts pics of their garden, but I am making some claims, some rather strong ones, so let me throw up a couple pics from different gardens I have had.

All of these plants were fed the same base nute regime, at the same pH I am talking about - starts around 5.2, gradually and predictably rises to about 6.1, where I dump and change. For the record, as a base nute regime, I am a big fan of GH 3-part. ALL 3 parts, not just micro and bloom. I use other additives, supplements, etc., but as a base, it kicks ass, is consistnet, stable, mixes well with other stuff and provides what yer girls need for macro/secondary/micro nutes. Plus, when you mix it up, the pH is exactly where you want to start - in the low 5's, like 5.2.

People have pretty decent grows, using a limited pH range, but they tend to have to find a special formula/mix. To change the proportions of the original nutritional elements to compensate for the pH - and then, if they deviate from that pH too much, the plants show issues because the regime has been built to compensate for a limited pH range, and the plant does not uptake the right nutrients in the right proportions.

And even then, IMO, slight nutritional issues, on relatively healthy plants, are detectable. I know I can see them ...

You will not find a bottle of Cal/Mag, epsom salts or any pH Up or Down (this shit is an easy way to fuck up your res before it ever hits your plants) in any of these gardens. And there were probably 80 different strains that went into these gardens. None of which you can see any Ca/Mg issues in:

This was in a 10,000 Watt mother room I had. This is looking down a row of a 24 site RDWC, lit by 6 vertical MH thowies, after a little maintnenace haircut. Each one of those plants is a different strain, and fed a clone room that held x,xxx clones. 24 different strains, one nutrient solution, pH started on a fresh res at 5.2 and dumped and changed at 6.1:

View attachment 267792

This is in that same room, a 4x4 Ebb&Flow tray directly under the thowie with the bat wing, and 5 gallon dirt (peat/perlite/vermic) plants ringged around the tray, reachin' for some light. Exact same mix as the RDWC (different ppms, but pH and proportions all the same):

View attachment 267793

Those 'dirt' mothers in the Homer buckets received the exact same pH and nutritional proportions as the RDWC (RDWC got less ppms):

View attachment 267794

This was a modest home garden. A 3x3 under a 400 on the right and a 4x4 on the left under a thowie. This fed a 4 thowie, 4 tray flower room, sealed and CO2'ed. And a 2x4 under T5's that I used for clone/strain overflow. All the exact same pH and proportions of that 10,000 Watt mother room:

View attachment 267795 View attachment 267796

That, IMO, is a sign of a good base nutrient regime, which I consider GH 3-Part to be. One that can be transferred from garden to garden, light to light, medium to medium, and system to system. Providing one ditches the Lucas Formula and buys a bottle of veg ...


I'm a weed geek, like many of you. Sorry for the intrusion and pics, but I don't hang around on the forums much anymore. A few days and a few posts at a time (and this might be the last of the few for a while). When I do, I tend to talk hydro and pH and Lucas and such. And I am posting in yours 'cause I got sucked into a couple of yours and Snypette's, with all of the life drama, young ladies in tight pants bending over in gardens, your interesting life story you are open with, etc. Lol. Entertaining. And I mean that in a good way. Your food pics are awesome.

I'm not saying you are wrong as much as I am suggesting you reconsider being so adamant about your ideas of what proper RDWC pH levels are, and hydro in general. And while you can grow pretty decent stuff with the Lucas Formula, I, personally, always see nutritional disorders in just about every garden that is using Lucas, or a modified version, and high performance growing gear, like RDWC and high wattage lights, trying to push plants and their metabolism.

All done.

K+ on the outdoor adventure you are undertaking and sharing. For all of the work and pains in yer ass, I'll bet you're having a blast - that's quite memorable experience, from ghetto grows to living on a farm in the country, I'm sure. Enjoy the hell outta it.

Be safe and smart up there, Cousin Vinny and Cousin Vinnyette ...

Some things that you are saying make sense. I agree with a lot of it. Different plants and different mediums as well as different nutrient profiles can require changes that one must test for. I can tell you this, if I set up my nutrient profile with my exact nutrients to a pH of 5.7 or below, my plants will look like they are dying within 3 days. Everyone's variables are a little different and that's why it's important to do your own testing to see what works for your specific situation. Your rooms and plants look very nice and dialed in! Thanks for the information!

 

[Snype]

I got a couple fence posts in today. I cemented them in for the new 8' privacy fence going up! Had to work in the rain. The fence will run almost 200' and will cut out the rest of the outside world! I can't wait! The fence is made with cedar and smells great! The posts are pressure treated pine. Some of the posts have to go 8' in the ground so when I level the ground, I'll be filling 4' of dirt. Just another day at the farm! Just waiting for supper! I think steaks are cooking!

 

[DapperDon]

Are you setting your posts below the frost line? If not then your fence will be destroyed from frost heave. And nothing sucks more than fence mending in the middle of winter.

 

[merc500]

i have read that cementing the posts in actually causes them to rot quicker better to just put them right in the ground ???

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Wrong. It actually protects it from moisture.^^

 

[Snype]

The old fence post debate. To cement or not to cement? If I didn't cement this fence into the ground, I'd be an idiot. You have to purchase the correct pressure treated posts that are made to have water on water contact. This aint no Home Depot pressure treated wood and is a much better grade! This fence would turn into a kite with no cement and get destroyed in no time.

 

[silver hawaiian]

To cement! Who knew there was anything to debate!

 

[GreeeeN GRassss]

is there any other way to fit a fence only with concrete

by the time the concrete rots the wood, the fence would have blown down 100s of times

 

[DapperDon]

I'll just leave this here http://www.gatewayalpacas.com/alpaca-farming/fence-building/setting-fence-posts.htm

 

[t99]

I'll just leave this here http://www.gatewayalpacas.com/alpaca-farming/fence-building/setting-fence-posts.htm

Same concept as Bigfoot sonotube bases. And better weight distribution.

 

[Hanzokan]

awesome journey you are on Snype, thanks for sharing your experiences and knowledge, I'm watching and learning, keep rockin

 

[Hanzokan]

what is society? is it just another word for control from the government? people have lived for hundreds of years with medical issues and we are still here.

whats more of an issue is the amount of pain killers sleeping tablets etc available in your local drug stores as use like to call them. 1000 of this a 1000 of that no wonder the addiction to these is nearly worse then crack and heroin.

here where i am you cant buy 24 panadol which are weak painkillers at one time. if snype can control his medical issues "naturally" then why not it has worked this long. hes lived with these issues most of his life.

why pay for medical shit it should be free for gods sake. america is one of the most powerful country's in the world its unreal how fucked up the difference between the rich and poor.

stop fighting wars and looking for oil and look after your own people.

word!!

 

[ProperGreen]

Great work Snype,

I know your not big on taking advice but it's crucial that you add some more aeration to pretty much all of your soil mixes. Maybe think about using equal parts aeration:humus content in your soil mixes.
I also don't get why you're not vermicomposting on your farm. If you want to cut a lot of the effort in gardening out, it starts there and end there. Someone mention in it the first few pages and I thought it was worth mentioning.
But who am I? Just a guy.

Sa-da-tay haha.

Next time I have no comment for someone, it'll be sa-da-tay???? Haha.

Be blessed and I wish you the best. The go hard or go home mentality is about as American as it gets! Let wish for your retirement. From here on out I'll be watching and learning rather than trying to "teach" and old dog. And I won't be offended if you tell me to take my advice, grow it, harvest it, cure it, then smoke it. I'll do just that haha.

Peace and best wishes.

 

[potential]

Hey Snype, first I'd like to thank you for this awesome tutorial and for sharing your journey with us. I have a question relating to the build as it regards to the parts list. The grey (1.5" Female Adapter PVC Fitting (Carlon) Available at Home Depot and Lowes or www.codale.com for cheaper.), where the hell does it go? I see how the other (1.5" Female PVC Trap Adapter (Nibco) Available at Home Depot and Lowes) fitting is used to connect the buckets but I cant find where the first one is used.
I plan to use 3x 600watt HPS and would also like to know why you feel the 10 bucket system is better for this setup. Thanks, in advance for your support.

 

[Snype]

Hey Snype, first I'd like to thank you for this awesome tutorial and for sharing your journey with us. I have a question relating to the build as it regards to the parts list. The grey (1.5" Female Adapter PVC Fitting (Carlon) Available at Home Depot and Lowes or www.codale.com for cheaper.), where the hell does it go? I see how the other (1.5" Female PVC Trap Adapter (Nibco) Available at Home Depot and Lowes) fitting is used to connect the buckets but I cant find where the first one is used.
I plan to use 3x 600watt HPS and would also like to know why you feel the 10 bucket system is better for this setup. Thanks, in advance for your support.

The grey female adapter goes inside each bucket and screws into all your manifolds. The 10 bucket systems are better if you are topping plants and growing bushes. The 12 bucket systems are still great but can overcrowd the plants and create larf buds so it is better for untopped plants. If your using 600s, make sure your canopy doesn't get higher than 30" or you won't get good light penetration. Personally I like 2 thousands on the system better but do your thing. If you need washers, order them ASAP before they run out. I have to get more manufactured. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions. Stay tuned to my RDWC tutorial coming very shortly with more better details.

 

[potential]

Hey Snype, thanks for the quick response. Does that include the control bucket? Im going with the ten bucket system as you recommend, I already have the lights so Im stuck with the 3x600 setup. Now, where do I order the washers boss?